The use of acid-based dyes on concrete floors can give new colors to flat floors, or floors that look faded. Acid stains give a marbled feel to concrete floors, also giving it a different color from most of the floor colors available. Acid staining your concrete floors can be a do-it-yourself weekend project, or you can ask an expert to come and do it. When this complex process that requires precision is completed, you will get a beautiful and unique floor motif.
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Part 1 of 2: Preparing the Concrete Floor
Step 1. Get to know your concrete floor
Concrete floors that have recently been installed (within the last 10 years or so) may have been machined and leveled. This means that the leveling process using the machine produces a good and smooth floor surface, but it is too smooth to absorb acid-based dyes. So, consider these grading methods and a few other conditions when you're considering whether your concrete floor is suitable for staining with acid-based dyes.
- For concrete floors that have been installed and cleaned for a long time by vigorously spraying water or molding by machine, the concrete surface must be completely in its original condition before adding acid dye. That means there should be no visible damage to the core of the concrete or grains of sand. If any areas are damaged, they will absorb the acid dye abnormally and create areas that are unevenly colored.
- Concrete slabs must be free of materials that can resist water absorption, or muriatic acid. Acid-based dyes do not react on surfaces that use these materials. You can usually tell if the concrete surface has a waterproof coating or not by doing a water test. In the test, all you do is pour water over the concrete surface. If water droplets appear and are not absorbed into the concrete, then the surface uses a waterproof material. If the water is absorbed into the concrete, then your concrete floor is ready to absorb the dye.
Step 2. Identify the factors that influence the acid staining process
The current state of your concrete floor is the most important factor to consider when acid staining. The first question to ask yourself before going through the coloring process is “What's on the floor now?” Depending on your answer, your concrete floor is ready to be cleaned and either acid-stained immediately (meaning acid-staining directly onto the concrete surface on the spot), or doing more prep (and possibly modifying the floor surface) prior to acid staining..
- Some other factors that can affect the acid staining process include differences in the floor material that covers the concrete surface, how the concrete surface is leveled, whether the concrete has ever been patched or repaired, and if the concrete floor is carpeted, whether the undercoat of the carpet is glued to the concrete.
- Concrete floors that are ideal for immediate acid staining are usually new construction concrete floors (where no material has been applied to the concrete floor and it is still clean), and concrete for the exterior.
- Changing the shape will be more difficult, as some of the blemishes left by the previous floor covering (tile, linoleum, wood, carpet, laminate, etc.) will appear on some parts of the floor after acid staining. These deformities generally require more preparation prior to acid staining.
Step 3. Perform a water test to check for water retention
Splash or spray water on several areas of the concrete floor. If water droplets appear and the color of the concrete on the part that is sprayed with water does not change, it means that there is a water barrier on the surface of the concrete floor, and must be removed in the floor preparation process. This water barrier must be removed, as it will prevent the acid dye from entering the concrete surface.
You can remove this barrier by sanding the top layer of concrete, or applying a microcoat on the top of your concrete. In the process of removing this barrier, a combination of chemical cleaners is required to dissolve the additives on the concrete surface
Step 4. Make modifications to your concrete surface if necessary
Not all concrete surfaces require this step, but for surfaces that have a liquid barrier from chemicals on top; for surfaces that are too smooth due to machine leveling; or contains excessive dirt from the previous floor covering, it may require some modification of the surface. In this condition, a sanding process or the use of a micro-coating is required.
- Sanding the floor with a high-speed sanding tool and an 80-grit sandpaper will result in a rough concrete surface, ensuring maximum adhesion of the acid dye. Sanding also helps remove surface debris such as paint or dye, as well as removing the top layer of water retention. After sanding, the entire surface of the floor feels like sandpaper and any debris on the surface will be sanded away.
- The micro layer is a thin and smooth layer of concrete, which is re-coated to cover the damage caused by the previous use of the floor covering. This is because remnants of the previous floor covering (carpet glue, nail holes, tile/groove adhesive lines) can leave marks that will appear later in the acid staining process.
- Using a microcoat is a bit more expensive than direct acid staining, but the re-coating process completely covers up any flaws in the floor, and even coats the original concrete so that it looks like a layer of animal skin. This stage can be tricky for someone working on this project on their own, and will probably require the help of an expert.
Step 5. Choose a cleaner for your concrete floor
Once you have prepared the concrete surface for good absorption of the acid dye, you will need to clean the surface. There are slightly different cleaners, which can remove dirt on the concrete surface on their own.
Knowing the differences between these cleaners will allow you to consider which cleaner will best suit your concrete floor
Step 6. Consider using a cleaner with a neutral pH
This type of cleaner is more natural, and is usually used to clean concrete floors in enclosed spaces.
This pH cleaner can also be used for exterior and interior exposed concrete, which requires a gentle, non-destructive cleaning process
Step 7. Consider using an acidic cleanser
This cleaner is the most commonly used type of cleaner. Acid-based cleaners are primarily used to remove dyes, soil or silt, and other impurities that can be removed with these acid-based cleaners.
Acid-based dyes include ready-to-use dyes or more mainstream solutions, and they are applied precisely to the affected area. Acidic cleaners sometimes need to be rubbed into dirty areas, and may require more than one staining process
Step 8. Consider using an alkaline cleaner
Alkaline cleaners are the most commonly used cleaners to remove concentrated stains such as oil, grease, or other hydrocarbon-based stains that are very difficult to remove. Due to its high alkalinity, this cleanser is very effective at dissolving oil and grease. This alkaline cleaner gives the best results when rubbed into the stains on the concrete.
The biggest mistake someone makes when using a cleaning agent is not giving enough time for the cleaner to work properly and remove the stain. You may need to use this cleaner several times to completely remove the stain, depending on how severe the oil stain is and how far it has absorbed into the concrete. Each of these cleansers should be left on for at least 3 hours after use
Step 9. Cover the wall
Protect the undersides and edges of your walls from acid staining using protective paper. Cover any exposed areas of the wall by gluing the protective paper tightly across the wall (covering the area closest to the floor), and attaching the paper to the wall using double-sided tape (sticky tape that can be glued on both sides)
Apply the tape every 12 inches to make sure the protective paper fits evenly
Step 10. Clean the floor surface thoroughly
For a general cleaning process, sweep the floor to remove dirt on the surface, then scrub the floor using trisodium phosphate (TSP). To scrub TSP, use a motorized floor brush with a nylo-grit brush designed for cleaning aggressive concrete. Then use a water vacuum to remove all the water and debris.
Step 11. Remove the remaining putty and resin (varnish)
The compounds in resin and putty are ingredients that are very difficult to remove from concrete. Use a putty knife or a floor peeler to exfoliate as much as possible and remove any adhering material. Then use a chemical peeler for the concrete, to remove any residue left behind. Apply the cleaning agent to the floor surface, and let it sit for about 1 hour, so that the cleaner can seep into the concrete. Then thoroughly rinse the surface of the floor with water, and clean the water and debris using a water suction device.
- You can find chemical peelers for concrete at building stores.
- Also consider using tuam paste to remove the resin (varnish) content. To make tuam paste, mix dry ash or lime with denatured alcohol. This mixture will create a paste that you can add to the affected area.
- After you have applied the paste to the area where the resin (varnish) remains, wait for the paste to dry (nearly an hour or more, depending on how thick you are applying the paste), then scrape off the resin flakes using a putty scraper or hard brush.
Step 12. Do the final cleaning of the floor
It is very important to clean the floor one more time after using all chemical cleaners, to remove any remaining dirt. Scrub the surface one more time using the TSP, then proceed with washing it thoroughly and rinsing it with clean water.
After the final rinse on the concrete floor, use the vacuum cleaner again to suck up any remaining water and particles
Part 2 of 2: Coloring Concrete Floors
Step 1. Use safety equipment
Remember to wear protective eyewear, gloves and a mask when working with acid dyes. A respirator may be the best option to avoid the strong odor of the dye, especially when staining concrete floors in poorly ventilated areas, such as basements. However, as much as possible the basement also has good air circulation, use a fan and open windows for fresh air circulation.
Also consider wearing long sleeves and trousers, with knee pads, just in case you have to lean on your hands or knees
Step 2. Mix in the acid dye
Acidic dye mixtures contain strong chemicals and a strong odor, so be sure to mix the dye outdoors, or in a place with adequate air circulation. Pour the acid dye mixture into the plastic pump. Usually it is enough to use a pump with 2 collection tubes, and make sure it is made entirely of plastic. It is important to ensure that the applicator or atomizer is also made of plastic, not metal, as hydrochloric acid (one of the main ingredients in acid dyes) is very easy to corrode metal.
- For floors that are leveled and smoothed by hand, dilute the acid dye in a ratio of 1:4, 1 for the acid dye and 4 for the water.
- For machine-leveled concrete floors (usually industrial or commercial floors), the acid dye mixture will be more concentrated, with a ratio of 1:1, 1 for acid dye and 1 for water.
- When mixing and diluting acidic dyes, you need to pour them into water. This is better than doing the opposite, pouring water into the acid dye. Because acid will give off a lot of hot air when mixed with water. Then add water, so that you get a very runny mixture of acids without needing to add any more water. And you can start staining with a very strong acid mixture.
Step 3. Try applying acid stain to a small area of the concrete floor
You should always test stain on a small, invisible area of your concrete floor to see how it reacts. Since so many factors affect the final color, this process is the only way to get an accurate picture of the final look, although the end result may look slightly different.
Step 4. Apply acid stain to the concrete floor
The most effective and efficient way to apply acid dye to concrete floors is to use a sprayer. This sprayer helps to coat the floor surface evenly, while coating it quickly and perfectly. It also helps to prevent pools of dye from forming by spraying the dye over a large area at once, not concentrating on one small area. The spray bottle you use should be made of plastic, and have a plastic partition (like the end of the atomizer). This is because the hydrochloric acid in acid dyes is highly corrosive to metals, and can cause a dangerous acid reaction as well as damage the tool. You can start spraying the acid stain in a corner of the room, so you can spray it all over the floor and walk over the area to be sprayed without stepping on the top of the acid layer. Spray the acid dye with the atomizer at a distance of one and a half feet above the floor. Consider spraying the dye randomly but evenly using a pattern like letter 8. When you apply acid dye, the lime content in the concrete reacts with the acid, giving the floor a different color.
- Allow the first layer of acid to dry completely (about an hour) before adding the second coat. You can stop using the acid dye after the second coat, or you can keep adding the acid coat until you get the color you want.
- You have to be very careful when walking around the stained area. If you walk on acid dye and then walk on unstained concrete floor, your footprints will leave burn marks on the concrete floor (especially acid stain trails from shoes).
- Shoes that have jagged, acid-resistant bottoms (such as soccer shoes or golf shoes, and are made of acid-resistant stainless steel) will be especially helpful for walking during the acid staining process, as these will leave some shoe marks on the floor. The jagged bottom of the shoe will cover only a small part of the floor, making the footprints almost invisible and easier to mix with the acid dye.
- Don't expect consistency or color perfection. Color variations are the hallmark of the coloring process.
Step 5. Neutralize the dye used
Wait until the chemical reaction of the acid dye is complete before neutralizing the dye. Generally this chemical reaction lasts for at least 3 to 4 hours after application. The neutralizing solution is a mixture of water and ammonia in a ratio of 4:1, 4 for water and 1 for ammonia. Spray this neutralizing mixture onto the floor using a sprayer with a plastic pump, just as you would with an acid dye. After spraying the neutralizing solution, the floor will look like it did when you cleaned the acid stain. Don't worry, because these are just remnants of the dye. The acid has reacted with the concrete. To scrub and neutralize the floor properly, use a broom with a hard bristle brush (perhaps a medium hardness broom – neither too fine nor too coarse), or use a low speed floor scrubber, and spread the neutralizing solution over the entire surface. concrete floor.
You may need to scrub repeatedly to completely neutralize the surface of the floor, especially if the acid dye used is dark
Step 6. Clean the floor
Use a clean mop or a large brush with soft bristles to clean the floor and scrub with additional water, neutralizing the ingredients. Then, use a vacuum cleaner to quickly suck up the remaining dirt on the floor before the floor dries. Once you've sucked up the water and remaining dirt using a vacuum cleaner, you'll have a general idea of how the acid stain on the concrete floor will look. Allow the floor to dry completely before you add the finish. In this process, it is not the right time to beautify your floor. You may have an idea of what the finished floor will look like, but the final result is still unpredictable until you add the finish.
- If there is still moisture remaining on the floor before the solvent-based coating is applied, the concrete will release moisture that covers the entire floor. This vapor can only be removed by removing the coating and reinstalling it.
- One of the easiest ways to check for moisture on the floor is to use blue tape. Glue the tape to the floor. If the tape sticks, it's a sign that the floor is completely dry. If it doesn't stick, it means the floor is still damp and needs time to dry.
Step 7. Decide on the final result you want
Use a layer to cover the acid-stained area and add a layer to protect your concrete floor. Adding a cover layer can also help enhance the appearance of the colors. For acid stain projects on interiors, a film coating (a layer that provides protection to the top of a concrete floor) is the most commonly used type of coating. However, there are several different types of coatings, and each type has its own advantages and limitations.
Step 8. Consider using an “impregnated layer”
These coating types include silanes, siloxane, and silicates. This coating is widely used on outdoor concrete floors because it can provide the best protection against rough surfaces and outdoor weather conditions.
Step 9. Consider using an “acrylic coating”
Acrylic coating is used for concrete floors both indoors and outdoors. This type of coating helps to emit color from the stained floor, and usually dries within an hour of application. Acrylic coatings come in two forms: solvent-based and water-based, but solvent-based acrylics generally impart color better than water-based ones. When an acrylic coating is used for flooring indoors, it usually takes a lot of wax (it acts as a barrier), preventing scuffing from shoes and stomping on the floor. Acrylic is usually quicker to use than polyurethane and epoxies.
Step 10. Consider using a “polyurethane coating”
Polyurethane coatings are widely used in places like restaurants or driveways because of their resistance to things like shoe tracks and stains. This coating is one of the most widely used types based on its glossiness, and gives a bright finish when it dries.
Step 11. Consider using an “epoxi coating”
The epoxy (usually consisting of a mixture of two well-protective compounds) forms a highly protective layer of concrete floors. Because epoxies tend to turn yellow when exposed to UV light, they are usually restricted to indoor use on concrete floors.
Epoxy paints provide a long-lasting, highly water-resistant finish. However, due to their non-absorbent nature, epoxy paints can sometimes trap water and moisture in the concrete
Step 12. Add a cover layer on the floor
Instead of using one thick layer for the cover, use multiple thin layers. The finish can be applied using a brush and paint roller, but using a sprayer tends to be the easiest way to apply it. If you use a sprayer, avoid spraying too much in one area and creating a small pool of coating liquid. If you're using a paint roller, push the finish onto the floor. Pulling the paint roller will result in streaks on the concrete. Allow sufficient drying time (usually about 1 hour) before adding the coating. However, the second coat must be applied within 4 hours after the first coat. Because after sitting for 4 hours, the second layer will be difficult to stick well to the first layer.
- If you are using a sprayer to apply the cover, consider using a conical-tip sprayer instead of a fan-shaped sprayer.
- Give it at least 4 hours, before the surface can be stepped on. In 3 to 4 days, the cover will be completely dry and ready for daily use, and the cover will be removed.
Step 13. Coat the concrete floor with wax
To protect the concrete cover, it's a good idea to finish by applying a layer of wax to the top of the concrete floor. An easier way to apply wax to an acid-stained floor is to use a floor mop with a bucket. Pour the wax into the bucket, squeeze the mop so that the wax doesn't drip, then apply the wax to the concrete floor in a figure 8 pattern. After you've applied your first layer of wax and waited about half an hour for it to dry, you can remove the parchment paper. You use to protect the bottom of the wall.
- If the sheet of parchment paper falls onto a freshly coated concrete floor, hasn't had time to dry and hasn't been waxed, the paper will stick like glue to the floor. However, if the parchment paper falls on the wax coating, it can still be picked up.
- Usually within an hour after the last wax coating, you should be able to walk on the concrete floor. However, you should wait at least 24 hours before you move your furniture onto a freshly waxed floor. The longer this wax layer is left on, the harder and more protective it will become.
- The addition of a wax coating is usually done every three to six months to maintain the best appearance of the final result.
Tips
- You need to know that concrete floors will remain visible through acid stains, and when mixed with a stain, imperfections will be more obvious. This is what makes each coloring project using acid-based dyes unique.
- Concrete floors aren't the only surfaces that can be coated with acid-based dyes. Concrete bricks, concrete walls, and driveways in the yard can also be stained with acid.
Warning
- You can hire the best contractor for staining concrete using acid-based dyes, it all depends on the type of flooring you show him or her to work on. Sometimes the damaged area on the floor cannot be covered. To ensure the staining process you expect, the concrete floor should be as stain-free as possible. This is the only way to give the client the best coloring results.
- The list of color options provided by the dye manufacturer is used as a guide only. The colors that will be produced completely depend on the floor surface being colored.
- Acid-based dyes, like wood dyes, can produce different colors on the stained floor. Including color differences that occur naturally, as well as those that are intentionally made
