In sewing, a chain stitch is what the name suggests - a group of stitches shaped like a chain. Although chain stitch is an ancient technique, it is still the most widely used technique in sewing. This stitch is useful for filling in shapes as well as for making outlines, as the chain structure is flexible enough to follow curves and spirals. Best of all, there are several ways to sew a chain stitch, so grab a needle and thread and start learning today!
Step
Method 1 of 3: Making a Basic Chain Stitch
Step 1. Start with a small stitch
Beginning with a basic chain stitch is easy - all you need to do is make one small straight stitch into your fabric. The exact size doesn't matter, but it shouldn't be bigger than about 0.6 cm. This stitch will be the "anchor" of your entire chain.
To make one simple stitch, just bring the needle through the back of the fabric, then bring the needle through the front of the fabric near the first stitch
Step 2. Go back through the fabric near your stitch
Bring the needle through the back of the fabric just short below your first stitch. This new hole should align with the first two holes (not to either side.)
Step 3. Loop the thread through the first stitch
Bring the needle under the starting stitch from the side. You may need to use the tip of the needle to make the stitch slightly open. Dance the thread through the fabric until it's a little tight (but not so tight that the fabric is wrinkled)
Step 4. Insert the needle back through the second hole
Then, thread the needle through the hole up in Step 2. Your stitch should look like a thin oval or streak. You have just created the first "link" of your chain!
Step 5. Go back through the fabric under your stitch again
Now all you need to do is repeat the steps above to continue your chain. Bring the needle through the back of the fabric at about the same distance as the first link as you did before.
Step 6. Make a loop with the thread going through the previous link
This time, pass the thread under both threads in the "link" of the chain. Then, bring the needle down through the same hole where the needle went up. Your chain now has two links.
Step 7. Repeat as needed
Just continue this pattern to continue the link in your chain.
Method 2 of 3: Making a Heavy Chain Skewer
Step 1. Start by making a single "link" from the basic chain stitch
This stitch is a thicker, more defined variation of the basic chain stitch, which is an excellent choice for sewing the edges and outlines you want to highlight. To get started, you can make a basic chain stitch link according to the method above. In other words:
- Start with a single small stitch
- Back through the fabric where it is parallel to your stitch (less than 2.5 cm apart)
- Make a loop with thread through your first stitch
- Insert the needle back into the original hole where the needle went up.
Step 2. Make a second "link" through the first stitch
At this point, the thick chain stitch begins to differ from the basic chain stitch. Go back through the fabric a small distance from your first link as usual, but then make a loop through the "original" stitch anchor - not the link you just made.
After that, pull the thread and thread the needle back through the original hole where the needle went up once again
Step 3. Create a third link through the first two links
Back through the fabric under the second link. Pass the needle under the previous two links. This is important - the thread needs to pass not only the second link, but the second and first links at once. When you're done, insert the needle back through the original hole where the needle went up before.
Ignore the original "anchor" stitch - we don't need to use it anymore now
Step 4. Repeat as needed
Continue this pattern to lengthen your chain. Each time you go through the fabric up, make a loop with your thread under the last two links you made. If you do it right, a chain that looks "tight" will begin to form.
It takes special care to get to know the pattern, but once you get the hang of it, this stitch isn't difficult. Before you get used to it, carefully skip one stitch and loop your new chain through one link instead of two as it should be - if you don't realize your mistake, the end product will have an uneven chain
Method 3 of 3: Making a Cable Chain Stitch
Step 1. Start by sticking the needle through the fabric upwards
This type is a variation of the basic chain stitch that actually looks like an actual chain. Unlike the method above, we're not going to start with one basic chain stitch. Instead, just bring the needle from the back side of the fabric to the front.
Step 2. Loop the thread around the needle
Then bring the needle in front of the thread you're working on (the loose thread you haven't used yet.) Wrap the thread one complete turn to form a tight loop around the needle.
Step 3. "Prick and pry" the fabric
Insert the needle back through the front of the fabric as close as the needle goes back. Then, without pulling the thread too tightly, stab the needle again into the back of the fabric to a point parallel not far down.
An easy way to do this is to stick the needle into the fabric at a small angle, not 90 degrees to the fabric. That way, you can slip the needle under the fabric and up the fabric only the length of the needle, so you don't have to pull the thread all the way down and then all the way up
Step 4. Pull the needle over the thread
Start pulling the needle to tighten the thread. Make sure the needle passes over the thread, not under the thread. Finally, pull the thread tight.
If you do it right, you should now have a stitch shaped like an oval or a 0
Step 5. Repeat as needed
While it may not look right at first, you just need to keep making the cable chain stitch by repeating the steps above. As dnn lengthens your stitch, you'll eventually end up with a string of "0s" followed by short "-s" that look like links in a real chain. To repeat, to continue sewing the stitch, you need to do this:
- Circle the thread around the needle
- Prick only short fabrics by sticking the needle through the thread and back without tightening the thread.
- Pull the needle back over the thread
- Pull to tighten.
Tips
- While the basic chain stitch was the standard stitch for the first sewing machines, it is now being replaced by a more powerful lockstitch stitch. However, some modern machines still have this basic chain stitch option.
- You can make your chain wider by inserting the needle slightly to the side instead of in the same hole where the last thread came out.
- The tambour stitch produces a similar "chain", although it is sewn in a very different way. This alternate stitch is sewn in the frame using a pin/small knitting needle instead of a sewing needle. This will usually speed up the process, but the end result is a bit more uniform or "machine made", so it's not always recommended.
