A bicycle chain is a collection of links that connects the front and rear gears to allow you to cycle. Chains can come off for a number of reasons, ranging from too dry a chain condition, improper gear shifting, and impact. But this problem is easy to fix. Your hands may be a little greasy, but you'll be pedaling again in no time.
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Method 1 of 3: Replacing the Bicycle Chain
Step 1. Check the bicycle chain first
If anything is bent or broken, repair or replace it before you put the chain back on. Be sure to check not only the bicycle chain, but also the derailleur and cassette (bike gear). Making sure the bicycle chain is not damaged is very important especially after an accident.
After repairing your bicycle chain, it's a good idea to check the cassette, derailleur, and screws to make sure they are installed correctly or need replacement
Step 2. Turn the bicycle upside down or hang it on a bicycle stand
This will make it easier to fix the chain and the bike won't roll as you work. Turn the bike over so that the bike rests on the saddle and handlebars, being careful not to scratch or scuff the bike.
The bicycle standard will support the bicycle in the air in its normal position and is ideal for maintenance. However, most chains come off when you're on the road, so it's likely that you don't have access to the standard
Step 3. Pay attention to what gear the bike is in
A derailleur is a small device attached to the front and rear gears that physically moves the chain from one gear to another. Pay attention to where the teeth are by observing the derailleur because the derailleur will be in line with the teeth. You will need to put the chain back on the gear.
- The front derailleur, right next to the pedal, looks like a small metal bracket that floats over the gear where the chain should be.
- The rear derailleur, found on the rear wheel, looks like a small mechanical arm. This arm slides back and forth under the cassette (set of teeth) to move the chain. It is located under the right tooth.
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Many bikes will provide gear numbers on the handlebars, but you'll need to know how to read them to understand them:
- Left hand set the front teeth. Number 1 is the gear closest to the bike, or the smallest gear.
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The right hand adjusts the back teeth.
Number 1 is the gear closest to the bike, which is the largest gear.
Step 4. Push the rear derailleur arm toward the handlebars to loosen the chain
What this means is the small metal arm next to the cog at the bottom of the derailleur. There is usually a small metal square right next to the cog that will allow you to push the derailleur without getting your hands too greasy. The arms should be folded slowly toward the front of the bike so that the chain hangs very loosely.
Step 5. Use your other hand to attach the chain to the correct gear
Take the chain with 2-3 fingers and place it over the right tooth. Chain slack will allow you to fit 10-15 teeth into the chain groove. Gently remove the derailleur after you have placed a few teeth in place.
Step 6. Slowly pedal the bike with one hand
As you pedal, you'll notice that the teeth you've manually engaged will guide the entire chain back into position. Keep pedaling for another 2-3 turns to make sure the chain is securely in place.
Make sure you are pedaling forward – the rear wheels should move as you pedal
Method 2 of 3: Caring for Your Bike Chain
Step 1. Maintain the drivetrain to prevent chain slippage
The drivetrain is your bicycle's transmission system. This system consists of all the parts that drive the rear tire of a bicycle: chain ring (big gear next to the pedal), cassette (collection of teeth on the rear wheel), rear derailleur (metal arm on the back of the bike), and chain itself. Dirt, grit and dust can collect on the drivetrain, making the drivetrain heavy and as a result prone to jumps and slips.
- Diligent cleaning and maintenance will extend the life of your bike's drivetrain.
- You'll need to overturn the bike, or clip it to a bike rack in order to carry out maintenance on the drivetrain.
Step 2. Use an old rag and bio degreaser to scrub the chain
Lubricant cleaner, sometimes called lubricating fluid, is a soap that has the power to penetrate dirt but will not damage the chain. Most bicycle shops sell it next to bicycle lubricant. Pour a small amount on a damp cloth and clamp it loosely on the chain with one hand. Using the other hand to pedal the bike, run the chain through the rag for 2-3 turns.
- Do 2-3 laps pressing the lap on the top and bottom of the chain, then a few laps pressing the lap on the sides of the chain.
- Gently rub the washcloth over any grease or dirt stains to remove them if they are still visible.
Step 3. Use a bicycle brush or an old toothbrush to clean between your teeth
Just like human teeth, between the teeth of a bicycle also need to be cleaned from time to time. Dip the brush in the lubricating cleaning fluid and rub it between each tooth while you pedal with the other hand. This will remove any fat lumps that can cause the chain to fall off if allowed to become too large.
Use a screwdriver to scrape hard-to-reach areas or specific small stains
Step 4. Wipe off visible dirt on the derailleur and chainrings
If it looks dirty, you should clean it. Use a damp cloth, brush, and a small amount of lubricating cleaning fluid to reach as many nooks and crannies as possible and keep your bike brilliantly clean. Let the bike lighten your work whenever possible, hold the rag/brush in a certain position while pedaling the bike. Areas to look out for include:
- Both sides of the jockey wheel, which is the small cog on the derailleur arm.
- The back of the chainring (the one closest to the bike).
- Bike frame, joints and hinges near chain.
Step 5. Purchase a chain cleaner for stubborn dirt
If a washcloth and toothbrush don't work, you'll need a chain cleaning kit. This little box is clipped around the chain. Add lubricating cleaning fluid and hold the tool so it doesn't slide while you pedal, so the tool will brush and scrub the links automatically. You can get it for only around Rp. 40,000 – Rp. 100,000 and usually comes with a cleaning fluid and a brush.
Step 6. Lubricate the bicycle chain after cleaning
Purchase a bottle of bicycle lubricant, which will both lubricate the chain and protect it from dirt and moisture. After cleaning and drying the chain with a rag, slowly turn the pedal. Apply a drop of lubricant to every 2-4 links, right at the joints that connect one link to another. Once you've done that on the entire chain, shift gears and drip about 10-12 drops. Use a rag when you're done, as excess lubricant can trap dust and cause dirt.
- Your goal is to coat the entire chain with a thin layer of lubricant.
- Every time you ride your bike in the rain, clean the chain, or if you hear a squeaking sound, apply some lubricant.
- Feel the chain with your fingers – if it feels dry, you'll need to apply more lubricant.
Method 3 of 3: Fixing Frequent Chain Problems
Step 1. Learn how to shift gears properly to keep the chain in place when climbing an incline
Improper gearshifts can put a strain on the drivetrain, and your chain can only be stretched to a certain extent before slipping or possibly breaking. Shifting gears moves the chain, and if you increase your pedaling speed as you go up an incline, this can cause the chain to not be caught by the teeth of the next gear. Here are some tips for shifting gears safely:
- Shift gears before you climb an incline. Don't wait until you can barely pedal to shift gears. As a rule of thumb, your feet should always move at the same speed – you have to keep shifting gears to allow this to happen.
- Use gentle pressure when shifting gears. Just as you shift gears, reduce foot pressure as if you were about to release the pedal. You don't need to stop pedaling, just reduce the load on the pedals. Calculate so that the time coincides with a gear change, then continue pedaling normally.
Step 2. Adjust the derailleur limiting screws if the chain always loosens in the same direction
This is common if, when shifting gears to the extreme gear on the far side of each set of teeth, the chain is constantly moving and loosening. The limiting screw will tell the derailleur to stop moving in one direction, and if the limit is too high, the chain will continue to move as you shift gears even if no gear will catch it. Both the front and rear derailleurs have small limiting screws labeled “H” and “L” for the “High” and “Low” limits.
- Turn the “H” screw clockwise to prevent the chain from moving too far to the right, away from the bike.
- Turn the “L” screw clockwise to prevent the chain from moving too far to the left and into the wheel.
- If you are in the furthest gear, you will see the derailleur move as you adjust the screw. Make sure the derailleur is aligned in the center of the teeth.
Step 3. Replace any bent or sticking links
Replacing the link is actually not that difficult, but you will need a special chain tool. This small tool pushes the pin out of the link, allowing you to replace it. Purchase replacement links from your local bicycle shop with the chain's special tools. Find broken links by pedaling the bicycle and watch for links that do not bend as they pass through the derailleur. Use a special chain tool to push the pin out of the broken link (the small round rod inside the link), then use the tool to push the pin from the new link into place.
- Try to line up all the pins so that nothing sticks out.
- Master links are special links that can be added to any chain, and have grooves that interlock for easier installation.
Step 4. Check if your chain is worn
Over time, both the chain and the cassette will wear out due to friction, and that means the teeth won't be able to lock the chain in place firmly. To check the chain, use a ruler to measure a distance of 30 cm between the 12 pins in the chain. If you look at the chain from the side, the pin is the small circle in the middle of the link. If the 12th pin is more than 1/8th off the 30cm mark, you'll need a new chain.
- If your chain is full of rust or the links are difficult to move, it is better to buy a new chain.
- Chains usually wear out faster than cassettes and it's cheaper to buy a new one.
Step 5. Decide if you need a new cassette
Cassettes are more difficult to analyze than chains, but if you think you need a new cassette, chances are you do. If your chain is constantly skipping gears, loosening, or skipping, it's likely that you need a new cassette. Take your bike to a repair shop if you are unsure of your own judgment.
