Installing gypsum, also known as stone slabs, stone, siding, is an important part of building a house. Before gypsum was widely used, it took a long time to create a foundation for painting or wallpapering. Now, you can easily install gypsum in a few hours, depending on the size of the room.
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Part 1 of 6: Choosing Your Gypsum
Step 1. Types of gypsum usually measure 10.1 cm x 20.3 cm
10, 16 x 30.5 cm gypsum is also available, but is more difficult to install and is usually used by professionals. This large gypsum is easier to break in shipping to the job site, although it requires less energy because the larger the gypsum means the smaller the joints that need to be joined.
Gypsum is usually installed horizontally but can be installed vertically if desired
Step 2. Know the thickness from 0.6 cm – 0.625 cm with 1.27 cm being the most popular
The size of 0.6 cm is often used as gypsum filling and is not used for new construction. Check local building codes for requirements in your area.
Step 3. Pay attention to your gypsum composition
When choosing gypsum, use a composition that is suitable for the environment to which the gypsum will be installed. For example, there are several types of moisture-resistant, commonly called “green stone” that are designed for installation in damp places such as garages and bathrooms. Check your local hardware store before buying.
Installing green stone throughout the house may be overkill, but it can be useful in humid areas, such as the bathroom, as long as it is not used near a bath or shower. Green rock gypsum is not good to use where it will get wet. Use a glass cement board around the tub or shower
Part 2 of 6: Checking the Installation Location
Step 1. Prepare the area for plastering
Remove all the old gypsum. Nails, bolts, and anything else that prevents the new gypsum from laying flat on the board.
Step 2. Check and repair hidden damage
Check for loose boards, moisture damage, termites, or other problems. Don't be surprised to find iron boards instead of wood. Iron board is generally a good material because iron is stronger, and is termite and fire resistant. If you are using an iron board, the only difference is that you have to use gypsum screws instead of nails when installing the gypsum.
Step 3. Check the insulation attached to the board
Use Kraft insulation to patch up rips in the board to maximize your energy efficiency.
Step 4. Use triple-spread foam to seal cracks in exterior walls
Use foam that is permanent, stiff, does not shrink, and is waterproof. Do not install foam in or around doors or windows.
Part 3 of 6: Measuring and Cutting Gypsum for the Ceiling
Step 1. Measuring from the corner, measure your gypsum so that the ends end up on the wooden bars
Never place a gypsum tip without a holder. The ends of the gypsum should always be screwed into the wooden bars.
- If your gypsum doesn't sit on wooden bars, try this:
- Measure the center of the farthest backing where the gypsum is placed and transfer that measurement to the gypsum.
- Place the elbow ruler on your gypsum and mark with a razor blade in line with the elbow ruler.
- Break off the ends of the gypsum made from the line.
- Double check that each end of the gypsum will rest on the wooden bars.
Step 2. Apply glue on each bar where the gypsum is located
Do this before you hang the gypsum.
Step 3. Lift the gypsum to the ceiling, starting at the ends
You want the ends to be perpendicular to the bars and tightly against the wall.
Step 4. Install five screws, in a straight line, in the center of the gypsum and through to the wooden bars
Repeat this process for each wooden bar behind the gypsum.
- Make sure the five screws are equidistant along the wooden bars.
- Leave 1/2 inch (1.3 cm) of support area when installing screws. Do not screw too close to the tip of the gypsum.
- Insert the screw head through the top of the gypsum, but not so deep that it tears the top.
Step 5. Continue gluing, lifting, and screwing the gypsum in this manner until one row of ceiling is covered
Start the next row from the end of the wall, next to the previous row, but make sure the ends of the internodes offset the first row by at least 4 feet (1.2 m).
Part 4 of 6: Measuring and Cutting Gypsum for Walls
Step 1. Mark the location of the pole using the pole finder
Don't be sure that your posts will all measure 40.6 cm or 61 cm in the center, as they should be. Some of the posts missed 1.27 cm, sometimes due to careless carpenters. A good way is to put some insulation along the floor and mark your wooden post in the middle of the marker.
Step 2. Measure the wall with pieces of gypsum to determine which ends of the gypsum will rest on the posts
Again, you may have to cut some of the gypsum to make the ends of the gypsum rest on the wooden posts.
When cutting gypsum, use an angled ruler and a razor blade to line one side of the gypsum. Place your knee on the opposite side to be cut and pull the plaster towards you and at the same time move your knee forward, cutting the plaster neatly. Clean the remaining pieces with a razor blade
Step 3. Put glue on each wooden bar as a place to attach the gypsum
Do this before you install the gypsum.
Step 4. With help, lift the gypsum against the wall, and use a drill to screw five screws in the center of the gypsum
Start in the middle and work your way to the edges. Screw five screws into each wooden bar.
- Additional screws can be useful in certain situations, but are usually superfluous; they require extra sanding which can degrade the quality.
- Consider using gypsum screws containing a spring. The screw is designed to automatically make all the screws have the same depth, as a sign to stop drilling.
Step 5. Use a gypsum saw to cut the gypsum arches
Continue to install gypsum on windows and doors. You will be able to trim off the excess gypsum later. At the same time, remember that no seams line up with the corners of the door or window, and don't fasten the panels to the corners just yet.
A good practice in placing plasterboard on a protruding pipe is to lay the plaster against the pipe and cover it with a block of wood. Next, pull out the gypsum and use a gypsum round cutter or a gypsum saw to cut a perfect circle. This is easier than punching holes in large gypsum and requires 3-4 layers of filling
Step 6. Continue to install the gypsum in this way until one row is completely covered
Start the next row from the end of the wall, next to the previous row.
Step 7. Cut off the remaining gypsum hanging on the door or window
Fasten the gypsum around the window or door, and cut it neatly using a rotary drill or gypsum saw.
Part 5 of 6: Sticking Gypsum
Step 1. Mix layers of gypsum compound, or glue, into a cream
Apply the first coat on the internodes, a little more will make the tape bond with glue.
Step 2. Use a gypsum knife to apply glue cream to the gypsum joints
You don't need to apply perfectly on the first try; You will erase the rest after you attach the tape. Make sure you cover all the segments.
Step 3. Glue the gypsum tape all over the area where you applied the glue cream
Use a 6-inch or 8-inch putty knife to flatten the tape, starting at one end and pulling in one smooth motion.
- Draw a line to cut on your tape and slightly dampen it with clean water. You don't need to soak it too deep.
- Some contractors avoid tape with holes and lint, as it doesn't produce perfect results and requires additional glue cream and sanding to finish. Do what you think is best and fits your finances.
Step 4. Remove the glue cream around the tape with your gypsum knife
Remove excess cream so that the surface of the internodes is smooth and even.
Step 5. Check the tape you just pasted for air bubbles
Wet your knife and smooth it out.
Step 6. For corner sections, consider using the available corner tools for both inside and outside corners
This will make your work like a pro.
Apply glue cream and tape in the same way. Put enough gypsum compound. If not, crimp your tape in the middle and tighten the crease a few times. Apply the tape so that the center of the crease is attached directly to the corner of the wall. Remove excess cream with a gypsum knife
Step 7. Apply at least two or three layers using a wider putty knife
Let the glue cream dry between each layer. If you hurry there will be bubbles!
- Multiple thin coats of glue cream will give better results, but it will take patience for the layers to dry first.
- Do not apply glue cream to the newly pasted tape. Let them dry for a day unless you use a hot cream which will dry in an hour. You can also use pink cream which when dry will turn white, indicating that it is ready for the next layer.
Step 8. Don't forget to add layers on each screw
You won't recognize each side after coating the segments with cream glue. Be sure to hold the knife flat against the plaster and pull it in one firm motion. Practice using scrap gypsum pieces to refine your technique.
Coat gypsum with glue cream on imperfections such as nail holes
Step 9. Repeat until each segment has tape attached
Part 6 of 6: Sanding and Finishing
Step 1. Use a sander with a stick to sand hard-to-reach areas
Do not sand too much until the gypsum is visible. Do this step quickly because the cream will sand easily.
Step 2. Use sandpaper with good sand paper to sand everything down
Again, caution is key here. A few quick strokes are all you need.
Step 3. With a stick and pencil, check for surface defects
The strokes will help you spot anything that isn't perfect. Round the defect area with a pencil. Use a sponge or hand to patch the defect area.
Step 4. Paint the wall, then smooth again
Apply a coat of primer on the wall, and sand all areas of the wall using a sanding stick. Although most beginners skip this step, it is very important to get good results, and to prevent paper residue from sanding first.
Step 5. Don't sand too much
Sanding can be fun, but sometimes people over-sand, through the tape. If this happens, apply more glue cream and sand when the cream has dried.
