Damage to your gypsum can be repaired using only a small amount of equipment. (Drywall is also known as wallboard, plasterboard, gypsum board, or sheetrock). To repair and seal various sizes of holes in the wall, follow these steps:
Step
Method 1 of 5: Fixing Small or Medium Holes (Those Less than 10 cm): Fast Way
Step 1. Purchase a ready made hole patch
These items are widely available at home supply centers and hardware stores. They use fruit peels and adhesives, metals and patches for added strength.
Step 2. Clean the edges of the hole
Remove any dangling edges with a knife and return the other small pieces to the lid.
Step 3. Cut or shape the cover to match the size of the hole
Make sure you leave room for the gypsum to stick around the hole.
Step 4. Clean and dry the repaired area so that the bonding process is perfect
For cleaning oily areas (such as kitchens, use trisodium phosphate (“TSP”), which is found in many paint stores. Warm water and soap can work as well, but don't let your walls get too wet.
Step 5. Place the patch back on the wall and smooth the adhesive edge with your utility knife
This can remove all the bubbles.
Step 6. Use a wide putty knife to apply a small amount of cement (sometimes known as “mud”) around the repaired area
The goal is to smooth out the difference between the adhesive and the surrounding wall, as the patch will look unattractive on your wall if you don't cover it. Therefore, you must learn to apply cement around the patch well so that the patch "came out" little by little on your wall.(.
Example: If you want to repair a 5 to 7.5 cm hole, it is better to use a 25 cm thick putty knife to apply the top coat of cement as the final coat. Remember to “screed” the cement gently as a last resort
Step 7. Apply adhesive using a putty knife
A wider putty knife will result in a smoother job
Step 8. Smooth the adhesive using a putty knife
Pull the blade toward you and position your knife against the wall at about 30 degrees. If your work doesn't look smooth, clean your blade, wet it again and then start working again. Make the cement you use as smooth as possible, but don't worry if it's not perfect. You can sand it when it's dry (though it can get a little messy, so it's best to make it as smooth as possible before it dries).
Step 9. Allow the entire patch area to dry evenly before starting to coat or sand
Step 10. When the adhesive is dry, sand the area gently using a gypsum sander connected to a drywall sander
(Ordinary sandpaper can also be used, but not as well as an abrasive.) If there are any clumps or flakes, scrape them off with a putty knife first to remove any dust.
Step 11. Hide some of the defects by using a layer of adhesive material that is thick enough
Apply this coating over the holes as you would want to scrape them all away without any traces remaining. With experience, you can complete this stage without sanding again.
Method 2 of 5: Fixing Small Holes (Less than 5 cm)
Step 1. Clean the part to be repaired
Remove the worn edges with a knife and re-press the small bits of wall that are still hanging from the lid.
Step 2. Wet the area to be repaired with spray bottle water
This can help the adhesive stick together if you use a regular adhesive. This step can be skipped if you are using a non-water-based adhesive that contains acrylic, polymer fibers or other materials that are not water-based.
To clean oily areas (such as in the kitchen), use trisodium phosphate or TSP, which you can find at most paint stores
Step 3. Once the walls are clean and slightly damp, apply an anti-shrink adhesive using a putty knife
The wider your putty knife, the smoother you will get.
Step 4. Smooth the cement using a putty knife
Pull the blade toward you and position your knife against the wall at about 30 degrees. If your work doesn't look smooth, clean your blade, wet it again and then grind it again and pull the blade so it's always facing you. Don't expect perfect results, because you can sand again after the adhesive is dry.
If you want to repair a hole that requires several coats of cement, it is better to apply a few thin coats rather than a thick layer directly. It can cause no swelling and cracking during the drying process. However, it also takes extra time to dry between layers. If you don't have the time, buy a quick-drying product (like “Hot Mud”) that can be combined in small, handy amounts and can dry in under 30 minutes
Step 5. Allow the patch to dry thoroughly before adding another coat or sanding
Never coat again if the first coat has not dried completely.
Step 6. After drying, sand the part of the wall to be smoothed using a gypsum sander combined with a gypsum sanding tool
If there are lumps or streaks, scrape them off with your putty knife.
Step 7. Hide minor flaws by using a very thin layer of adhesive
Apply the layer over any small holes or cracks as if you were trying to scrape them off without leaving a mark. This step can often be completed without sanding again.
Method 3 of 5: Fixing a Medium (7 to 10 cm) Hole
Step 1. Draw a line in the area to be repaired using a framing tool or a square
Use a pencil to draw a square or triangle on the wall around the hole.
Step 2. Use a gypsum knife, a saw (keyhole saw), or an all-purpose knife to cut the damaged part of the gypsum
Drawing straight line shapes will make it easier for you to form replacement pieces.
Step 3. Cut the patch from the new piece of gypsum, about 7-8cm larger than the hole
Step 4. On the back of the gypsum filler piece, draw a line according to the actual size inside the wall
Make sure you draw the line in the center of the fill piece as a marker for the four edges.
Step 5. Carefully remove all the plaster material from the end of your fill line
You will be left with 7.5 cm of paper hanging on all four front sides of your gypsum filler piece.
Step 6. Place your piece of gypsum filler in the hole
The filler should fit perfectly, leaving a few inches of overlapping paper on all sides.
Step 7. Cover the patch with gypsum adhesive using a gypsum knife with a wide blade
Allow the patched area to dry before you continue.
Step 8. Gently sand the flat area using a good sandpaper
When you are finished, wipe the area with a damp sponge to remove any dust caused by dry sandpaper.
Step 9. Apply an additional layer of adhesive if necessary, sanding or wiping gently after finishing coating
Method 4 of 5: Fixing the Big Hole
Step 1. Draw a line in the repaired area with a framing tool or a square
Use a pencil to draw a suitable square or triangle around the hole.
Step 2. Use a gypsum knife, gypsum saw or utility knife to cut a section of gypsum into the square or triangle you created
Making a straight shape will make it easier for you to replace pieces of gypsum.
Step 3. Cut the gypsum backing from 2 cm plywood or 2.5 x 5 cm plank
This will be useful for shaping the back for the new gypsum. The bigger the hole, the more backside you have to prepare. Make sure you cut them 10cm long/wide from the part you want to patch.
Step 4. Place the piece vertically or horizontally in the smaller dimension of the hole
Place them in the center so they will extend behind your gypsum by 2.5 cm on each side.
Step 5. Hold the strips firmly as you screw them into the sections close to the edges of the gypsum
Grasp each piece with your other hand and attach it back to the side of the existing wallboard using 3.2 cm gypsum screws. You can use a screwdriver, screw gun or a drill. Enlarge the edges of the screws (directing them under the siding) to make them invisible after the cement is covered.
Step 6. Measure the part to be repaired and cut part of the gypsum as size
Make sure the new piece is no thicker than your gypsum. Add a new piece by screwing it into the back.
Step 7. Use a fiberglass-based adhesive with gypsum adhesive tape for your patch
Step 8. Apply a thin layer of adhesive to the crease and hit the screw head
Allow the patched area to dry before you move on to the next step.
Step 9. Sand the flat area using gravel sandpaper slowly
To get rid of sanding dust, you can easily wipe off the dry cement with a semi-wet (not submerged) cloth. Usually this will be as effective as sanding. (However, read the warning section below about wiping with moisture).
Step 10. Add a layer of adhesive if you are not happy with the result
You can easily sand or wipe half wet after each coat.
Method 5 of 5: Covering the Repaired Part
Step 1. If necessary, give it a texture to match the repaired part
Texture sprays are available in small aerosol cans at your paint store. Some products even have a nozzle that can be adjusted to fit the desired look or thickness. Spray a small amount over your small piece of gypsum to test the progress of your spraying technique, as this can be difficult to do properly. Do not hold the can too close to the part to be repaired or it will result in an awkward looking appearance.
- Soak the can in warm water for a few minutes and shake it just enough to make it easier to use.
- Gently pull a wide putty knife over the textured area after 15-20 minutes of drying, for a "knockdown" effect (if left alone it will produce an "orange peel" effect).
Step 2. Apply two coats of primer on the repaired area
One coat may not be enough, as the adhesive tends to absorb the paint and give it an unfinished look. Use primer and regular paint with a paint roller whenever possible, as using a paintbrush will leave marks. Home improvement centers provide small paint rolls for jobs like this and are cheaper and easier to clean than larger tools.
Step 3. Paint when your base coat is completely dry
It may only take a few hours to completely dry, but it's best if you let it sit overnight.
Tips
- Keep in mind that wet wiping to even out small areas will give a neater and better result than sanding. (See warning below.)
- One easy suggestion for fixing: If the hole is small, take a piece of steel wool, stick it into the hole so that it's under the surface of the wall, then fill the hole with adhesive. This is an easy and quick step to repair small holes.
- When applying adhesive, apply it lightly to avoid over-sanding and a messy finish.
- Hand sanders for gypsum have thin pads between the sanding bars and tend to give better results than sandpaper with a block of wood. Gypsum sandpaper is actually a plastic mesh material that can absorb dust much better than ordinary sandpaper.
- When applying the mixture with a putty knife, wash off or wipe away any excess mixture between the swabs. Smearing the mixture onto a dirty blade will give a smudged finish.
- Try to avoid creating large, shallow spots in your work. It is easier to scrape off a high and small spot than it is to sand a large, shallow one. In other words, it's better to have more of the mixture than it lacks (as long as you're prepared to sand, scrape or wipe away any excess material that dries.)
Warning
- Be careful with wet wiping. If you do several wet wipes on the same spot in a short period of time, the cover paper may absorb enough water to "thick" under sanding pressure, and it will be more difficult to smooth it out again. Wet wiping is cleaner than sanding, but do it separately. Let the cover paper dry completely before sanding it.
- Be careful around dust from the adhesive. Although new adhesives are safer, some older adhesives will mix with asbestor (cancer causing). You should wear a dust mask, because inhaling a lot of dust will damage your health.
- Before drilling screws into the gypsum, make sure you don't hit any pipes or electrical wires inside the wall.
- One of the nice things about getting your work done with textured surfaces is that they tend to disguise minor flaws or imperfections.
- When using a putty knife to scrape dry or wet cement, be careful not to cut the tip of the knife through the gypsum paper cover. This will lead to more improvements for you.
