Carving stone is another form of sculpting. Stone is different from other materials, it is very difficult to form perfectly because of its density as well as its unpredictable nature. Carving stone requires patience and planning. Use the following steps as a guide for carving the stone.
Step
Part 1 of 4: Choosing the Right Stone
Step 1. Choose “soapstone” if you are a beginner and only have a few tools for carving
The texture of soapstone is similar to that of a dry bar soap and is very soft. It will be easy to shape with a little effort.
- Soapstone is so soft that you can engrave it with the harder stone you can find in your backyard; You can even use your fingernail to carve it out. This stone is also available in many colors such as gray, green, and black. Use soapstone if you intend to make small sculptures that won't break easily if you accidentally scratch or bump them.
- You can find soapstone or other soft stone at your nearest carving supply store. For example, in California there is a shop called “Stone Sculptors Supplies” that sells soft stones for carving.
- In addition, you can get your stones from a stone yard. However, be aware that this stone is generally used for construction (table tops, for example) and may be tougher than stone specifically designed for carving.
- Keep in mind that some sopastones contain "asbestos", which can cause lung cancer, asbestosis, and mesothelioma if inhaled.
Step 2. Buy marble for the best combination of durability and softness
Pualan is available in many color variations and is available from many sellers.
- Marble is best used if you want a colorful, sturdy sculpture. It is available in various color variations such as white, gray, cream, orange, yellow, red, and clear.
- Although marble is generally more difficult to carve than soapstone, it can still be carved easily. This is a great choice for new sculptors because the stone will maintain its shape without the need for special tools or excessive labor.
- In addition to alabaster, you can use limestone, which is easy to carve but doesn't come in a wide variety of colors (usually gray limestone). Plus, limestone is difficult to sculpt if you use the wrong cut. Limestone is slightly harder and can be as shiny as marble.
Step 3. Avoid very hard stones like granite and marble
Carving this rock requires special equipment such as an electronic grinder and a hammer.
- Granite and marble are usually carved in large quantities because they are optimally used for sculptures and other large objects that require long durability.
- Working with large hard rocks requires a very hard effort. Even an experienced engraver can spend up to 80 hours working on a simple engraving.
Step 4. Select a rock that is not far from the sculpture you want to make
Engraving is a subtractive process, not an additive one. Unlike adding paint to a painting, carving reduces the stone to create shape.
- Limit the size of your stone to something you can complete in a relatively short amount of time. This is especially important if you are trying to sculpt for the first time and are not sure if you will enjoy the process.
- The recommended size for stone carvings is 7-11 kg. Stones smaller than 7kg will break if carved with a hammer and engraver. If it's larger, it will take longer to complete your sculpture than you'd like.
- If you intend to use soapstone to sculpt a heart-shaped pendant, you can use stones smaller than 7kg. But keep in mind you'll likely have to use other tools, such as harder rock or a file to shape it. You'll also have less chance of correcting any mistakes you accidentally made in the carving process.
Step 5. Observe your rock for cracks and fissures
Since you are working with natural materials, you are likely to encounter structural defects. Finding a stone with only minor defects will reduce the chances of your stone breaking during carving.
- Cracks and fissures are usually easier to see if the rock is wet. Use a spray bottle or splash water on your rock. If you find a crack, try to see the direction and size of the crack. Cracks surrounding the stone are more likely to break during the carving process.
- Tap the larger rock with a peg or the back of an engraver. If the rock makes a "ringing" sound, your rock is most likely denser in the area you hit. If it makes a flat thud and doesn't ring, there's probably a crack that absorbs the force of the beat.
- Ask an experienced engraver or shop clerk to find a solid stone for you. If you are a beginner and have no experience picking stones, buy your stones from the store, don't pick them up from the yard.
Part 2 of 4: Getting the Necessary Equipment
Step 1. Always cover your mouth with a dust mask when carving
Even if you are carving a small rock, it may contain asbestos or silica. Both of these materials are very dangerous if inhaled.
- To reduce dust, wet the stone first before carving. In addition, work outdoors (can be in the yard or terrace of the house). If you are working with larger stones (for example, 11kg), use a fan to remove dust as you work.
- Some experienced carvers recommend using a respirator when working with larger stones. However, this is usually done when carving larger stones using electronic equipment.
- Dust masks can be found at most hardware stores. Make sure your mask has two rubber straps and a metal plate that covers the nose for a good cover. Cheap paper masks that can be purchased at the drugstore may not be suitable for larger stones.
- You can also purchase a respirator at your nearest hardware store. This is a safer alternative and can cost from $20.00 (IDR 200,000) to $40.00 (IDR 400,000).
Step 2. Wear eye protection goggles to cover your eyes
If you wear prescription glasses, cover them with eye protection as well.
- Small pieces of rock can easily get into your eyes when using a hammer and engraver. While this is not as potentially deadly as inhalation of rock dust, it can be very painful. It can also damage your eyesight, making carving very difficult to do with accuracy.
- If you are working with small stones, you can wear protective eyewear. While this isn't as easy to use to cover prescription glasses, it won't fog up as easily as goggles.
- Over time, eye protection goggles can scratch and obscure your vision. Have a spare to replace it if it gets badly scratched. You can buy eye protection at most hardware stores.
Step 3. Consider wearing gloves if you are carving large stones
Stones can become rough and cause blisters, blisters, and sores.
- The more experienced you are and the more calluses develop on your palms, the less gloves you will need. However, it is better to use a shield than not. A good pair of gloves can even prevent injuries from using equipment.
- You don't need an expensive pair of gloves for a smaller or medium-sized stone. Since you won't be working long hours or with electronics, garden gloves should suffice.
Step 4. Purchase nails, an engraver and a file
Online retailers like Amazon sell beginner engraving kits for $30.00 (IDR 300,000). In addition, nearby art shops and home gardening companies offer a variety of carving supplies.
- For softer stones like soapstone, this tool will not be needed, however, it will make carving faster and more precise.
- For beginners, it is recommended to use a small hammer weighing 0.5-1 kg. Make sure the hammer has two flat sides. Unlike the hammer for nailing, the surface of this hammer is wider, making it easier to hit the engraver quickly. If you are of short stature, a lighter hammer is best for your safety. If you are taller, a heavier hammer will help you carve faster, removing more stone in one swing.
- The most commonly used engraving is the flat engraver. Flat engraving has two flat iron sides at the ends. The toothed engraver has many sharp prongs, similar to a fork. This is optional but will be very helpful in shaping and carving with quality.
- The final shape is achieved using a file. If you intend to purchase a separate file, you will need a file that matches the size of your sculpture. If you're making a statue, you're embracing a bigger file. You should also buy a smaller file to engrave details.
Step 5. Purchase a sandbag from your nearest hardware store if you are carving larger stones
You will need to place your sculpture in this pocket as you work on it.
- Fill a litter bag with large, inexpensive cat litter. Regular sand is too heavy and will settle so it won't hold your stone well.
- Make sure you buy a larger and cheaper cat litter bag. More expensive sand will usually clump. Cheap cat litter is lighter and allows you to place your stone in a variety of positions.
- Tie the sandbag with twine, leaving enough free space in the bag. You need that space to lean your stone against.
Part 3 of 4: Carving Your Stone
Step 1. Draw your design on a piece of paper
It's good to visualize your previous work because sculpting requires abstract and spatial thinking. Even if your drawing is 2D, it will help you visualize how your 3D object will be sculpted.
- Or, you can use clay to create a “rough draft” of your sculpture. This way, you can add and subtract clay until you get the shape you want. Not only will this help you develop your idea better, it will also prevent you from removing chunks of rock that shouldn't have been removed.
- For novice sculptors, it is recommended that you start with abstract shapes. Avoid making shapes that are too detailed like human statues. Learning to use different tools while trying to make things that are symmetrical and precise can be frustrating and very difficult.
Step 2. Observe the rock to determine the direction of the line or vein
Similar to wood, the lines or veins are the direction in which the stone is formed.
- Wet the stone to see more clearly the lines, which often look like patterns of different colors. Carving along these lines will create a more complete structure.
- Try to keep the stone veins in line with the design. Avoid carving stones across vein lines, as these are very easy to break and can break unexpectedly.
Step 3. Use crayons to draw your design on the rock
This can be a blueprint for carving your stone.
- While you can also use a pencil or marker, it's likely that the graphite from the pencil will wear off quickly. The ink from the pen or marker will soak into the stone and permanently stain it. Using crayons allows you to wash the image if necessary and provides a variety of different colors to use as alternative shapes for your sculpture.
- Make sure you mark the design on all sides of the stone. Keep the height and width of the shape on each side. Remember, your work will be 3-dimensional and should be engraved evenly.
Step 4. Hold the hammer in your dominant hand and the engraver in the other
For example, if you use your right hand a lot, you will hold the hammer with your right hand.
- Hold the engraver at its center, similar to how you would hold a microphone. Move your thumb on the side of the engraving where your finger is placed. The grip will feel awkward at first, but it will avoid accidentally hitting your thumb with the hammer.
- Hold your engraver firmly and be sure to touch the stone at all times. Allowing your engraver to jump and wiggle in your hand while hitting it will result in inaccurate and unpredictable shards in the stone.
- If you are engraving on the edges/edges, use a flat engraver, not a toothed engraver. Using only a few teeth on the stone while hitting it will cause the teeth to break, rendering your engraver useless and dangerous
- Aim your engraver at an angle of 45º or lower. Hitting the stone with the engraving upright will result in “bruising the stone. This causes a white smudge on the stone and will reflect more light, disfiguring your finished work.
Step 5. Hit the tip of your engraver with a hammer
If your angle is correct, the stone chips will fall off.
- If your engraver is simply stuck to the rock and isn't removing the rock chips, your angle may be too steep. Change your position at a smaller angle and try to carve from a different direction. Hitting at a steep angle can cause rock bruising.
- Engraving at an angle that is too small will cause your engraver to slip, and not remove any part of the stone. This usually occurs in harder and smoother stones. To prevent this from happening, hit at a larger angle or use a toothed engraver.
Step 6. Place your stone in a sandbag if it is unstable
For smaller stones, placing the stone in a safe place while carving it can be very difficult and will tire you out trying to stabilize it manually.
- If your rock moves – even if it only sways a little – you will still be draining the energy from your movement, which would otherwise have been used to carve the stone. Fix it by placing the stone directly on top of the sandbag.
- When engraving, it is better standing up than sitting. This will help you aim the engraver at an angle toward the floor, which will maximize each hammer stroke and reduce rock movement. You may have to readjust the position of the rock in the sandbag every few minutes.
- If your rock is still moving, lean on your body while pushing it against you. Make sure the carved part is facing the opposite direction from you.
- If engraving on a folding table, place your sandbag and stone on the top of the table's edge. The table is the strongest on that side, and most of your energy will go into carving the stone, not repairing the table.
Step 7. Carve close to the center of the stone, not towards the edges
As the stone becomes thinner and less strong at the edges, it can break accidentally.
- Carving towards the ends may result in you missing the piece of stone you need. To avoid this, carve with your engraver towards the center of the stone. Or, you can carve along the edge of the stone instead of crossing it.
- If you can't avoid carving across the edges, hit the hammer slowly and smoothly. While you can use special glue to repair broken stones, the lines of the glue will be clearly visible in your finished work.
Step 8. Carve along the crack, not across it
Keep in mind that even the finest stone may still have cracks on its surface. Reduce the amount of stone lost by carving along the crack, not across it.
- Use an engraver following the direction of the crack. A crack, no matter the size, is a point where one side of the rock is not as strong as the other. Engraving it will cut a small chip on one side, and make it difficult to file. This is often the case when working with softer stones.
- To avoid chipping, use a file when your stone is nearing its final shape. The engraver will put more pressure on the stone than the file and will make the crack more visible. Filing following the crack will help smooth it out and hide it better.
Part 4 of 4: Finishing Your Engraving
Step 1. File the stone away from you
Filing is best used for creating fine details, smoothing engraving marks, and cleaning the final shape of your work.
- Most stone carving files have teeth that are aligned, meaning they will only cut in one direction. The proper way to use this file is to push it against you instead of sharpening it back and forth like the traditional method.
- Sharpening the file back and forth may be effective, but it will also dull your file quickly. A better way is to push the file away from you and then lift it. Return the file to its original side and push back. The advantage of filing this way is that you can move the file away after each stroke, and you can see the surface of the stone as you work.
- Files are usually made of steel, although they are best for engraving stone coated with carbide or diamond and are quite expensive. Steel files work well enough for the soft stones suggested earlier.
Step 2. Glue the loose boulder on the sculpture with epoxy
Epoxy is a special glue that usually comes in two components that you must mix before applying.
- Regluing the stone is usually done if you are working with a larger stone and you are missing an important part which would mean damaging your overall design (for example, you lost the "arm" part of your sculpture).
- For smaller sculptures and engravings, you are better off rethinking your sculptures. If you intend to sculpt a heart, maybe you can replace it with an arrow.
Step 3. Sand your finish with 220 sand paper
Removing engravings and scratches can make your stone look smoother and more professional.
- The amount of sand used depends on how many grains of sand are on the paper per square inch. The more sand, the better the sanding will be. For sanding softer stones as suggested above, avoid using sandpaper of 80 and below. This sandpaper is rougher and can spoil your finish.
- It is recommended to sand the stone at the bottom. Use a dry/wet brand of sandpaper, as standard sandpaper will crumble if it gets wet.
- Sanding dry stone helps because you can see cracks and engravings well, but you'll need a respirator. To avoid spending a lot of money and generating harmful dust, wait for your stone to dry after each sanding session. Remember the areas where you see blemishes, then re-wet the stone and continue sanding. This technique requires patience but will save costs and ensure your safety.
Tips
- You can make sand paper by cutting out old jeans and sewing them after filling them with sand.
- You will need to use a smaller hammer once your carving has become smaller and more detailed.
Warning
- Don't carve stone without goggles, dust mask, leather gloves, and earplugs.
- Do not attempt to lift heavy stones without the assistance of another person or a machine.
- Be careful with the direction of the vein line. If you carve in the opposite direction, it will break accidentally.
