Installing tiles can be a difficult and laborious process. This kind of project will require a lot of good planning and preparation before the actual tile installation is carried out. It is important to use the correct technique in installing completely new tiles or replacing damaged tiles. This article will tell you how to install tiles.
Step
Part 1 of 3: Planning a Project
Step 1. Decide what type of tiles you want
There are a number of different tile qualities to choose from, and you should identify the tile quality that fits the climate in which the building is located. Equally important, you should decide whether you prefer clay tiles or concrete tiles (various grades based on climatic conditions are available for both). The two types of tiles differ in a number of ways, and so choice is important.
- Clay roof tiles are considered to be one of the most durable roofing materials available, in fact they last longer than concrete tiles. While concrete tiles are usually expected to last 30-50 years, under the right conditions a properly made clay roof tile can be expected to last up to 100 years.
- While durable, clay tiles can be more expensive (and there's no such thing as a cheap option). One estimate illustrates the importance of the price difference: installing concrete tile on a fairly common house with a roof area of 1500 square feet (139.35 square meters) in the United States can cost between US$6,000 and US$15,000 (between ±Rp. 81,000,000 and Rp. 135). 000000, the calculation is carried out assuming the current value of US$1 is Rp13500); while the use of clay tiles in the same house can cost between US$10,500 and US$45,000 (between ±Rp141,750,000 and Rp607,500,000).
- Ultimately, the color of concrete tiles is more prone to fading over time than clay tiles. For any roof you'll likely have for decades, color is primarily an issue to consider.
Step 2. Consider the impact of weights
At its simplest, a base asphalt roof (perhaps the most common roofing material in America) will typically weigh less than 3 pounds (±1.4 kg) per square foot (0.09 square meters) of roof. Concrete tiles, which are usually lighter than clay tiles, can be placed easily at 10 pounds (±4.5 kg) per square foot (±0.09 square meters) on the roof. If you add tiles to a roof that didn't previously use tiles, or add to a design that didn't originally include tiles, the roof may not be able to support this excess weight. In this case, you should inspect the roof and possibly strengthen it so that it is capable of bearing the load.
Step 3. Make a list of the materials and tools needed
While some of these materials and tools are commonly used--for example, it's recommended that you have a ladder on hand--other materials and tools are somewhat specific to the job and may not be in your inventory yet. For example:
- Gasket nails are a type of nail with an interior plastic cap that will help seal the nail holes and prevent leaks.
- Protective layer under the roof (underlay or underlayment). The protective layer under this roof is a waterproof layer between the roof tile and the roof truss and the roofing boards or panels (sheathing). A wide variety of undercover coatings are available, but since this is a roof that is meant to last from 30 to 100 years, investing in one of the tougher options might be a good idea.
- Putty or outdoor seal. There are a number of caulks or seals available for outdoor use, but again, it is especially recommended that you use a high-quality, durable product. This roof can last a lifetime, but will not last if the material does not meet the work requirements as a roof.
Step 4. Make an estimate for the material used
The most important starting point arises from the dimensions of the roof. You can use the following link: calculator to help determine the size of the roof (don't use the function entitled "Tile Calculator", which is obviously meant for interior floor tiles).
Without specific information on the type of tiles selected, it is impossible to estimate the number of tiles required to complete this work. A 100 sq ft (±9.3 sq m) roof section can require between 75 and 400 tiles
Step 5. Plan a specific time
If you are going to replace the roof of your current house, you must take into account the weather and the time available to complete this work. While it's clear that you don't want to lower your roof during the winter, you should also look for dry days. Check the long-term weather report (with the understanding that the weather forecast does not change). Also, make sure you have enough manpower available to complete this project on time. This project is not a one-man job, and so you should plan for it.
Step 6. Purchase the necessary materials and tools
While you are procuring the required materials, consult a hardware store clerk who may have specific product knowledge. If a customer has filed a complaint regarding a product defect, the store clerk may have knowledge of it.
Part 2 of 3: Starting a Project
Step 1. Remove the old roof (if possible)
On its own, this is a huge undertaking that can take days and requires special tools. Be prepared to time it and do this right.
Step 2. Repair and strengthen the roof (if possible)
You must strengthen the roof frame first before lowering the existing roof. That is, boards or roofing panels (sheathing)--a layer of wood or other material that covers the area between the relatively exposed frame and the outer layer of the roof--that may be damaged or weak. Strengthen this area.
Again, consider the weight required. The common and reasonably priced shingle roof, which many people use, is quite light; If you switch from a lightweight roof to a tiled roof, the difference in weight will be huge. For a house of relatively average size with a roof measuring 1,500 square feet (± 139.35 square meters), the total weight of the underlayer and roof tiles will be approximately 8 tons. This value is greater than the equivalent of two large SUVs parked above your house
Step 3. Install the underlayment
- Position the first roll of the lower roof protection layer on one side of the roof, perpendicular to the bottom edge (lining) of the roof. When you unroll the roofing sheet, keep the base edge of the material parallel to the edge of the trim but above the edge of any metal or synthetic material that may be covering the trim border.
- Tighten the protective layer of the lower roof. Unroll ± 3 m long, and then nail it at a distance of 24 inches (± 61 cm). Keep all nails at least 2 inches (± 5 cm) from the edge of the roof.
- When you reach the end of the roof, cut the roll of roofing sheeting to match the edges. Secure the ends of these rolls with nails.
- Start over at the end of the roof where you started first. Overlap the lower roof protection layer with a new layer that partially covers the already installed layer. There may be a series of lines along the roll of the undercoat, and these are meant to indicate exactly to the installer how much the layers should overlap. Treat the top line on the mounted layer as you did before on the base edge of the trim.
Step 4. Put the bottom protective layer around the hitch
Objects, such as chimneys protruding from the roof, will have to be sealed as well. Flashing metal (a weather-resistant metal to strengthen the joints and roof corners) should be used around the chimney, and the metal should be sealed using a putty or other sealer designed specifically for outdoor use. The undercoat must be cut to fit around this barrier, and then an additional layer of material (e.g. spare scraps of undercoat material) must be placed in the area where the metal is flashing and the roofing shield is and screwed in place.
Part 3 of 3: Installing Tiles
Step 1. Install the battens (if possible)
If the roof has a steep slope, battens may be needed to hold the tile in place. A batten is a thin strip of material (usually wood, but sometimes metal or plastic, and is typically 1 inch (± 2.5 cm) thick and 2 inches (± 5 cm) wide that extends horizontally the length of the roof. Many varieties of roof tile have a lip or the hooks that will hang the battens are available. Obviously one more thing to consider when identifying a tile that fits your needs. In addition, clamps (clips) are available to attach the tile to the batten.
- Use two tiles to determine the required spacing for the battens. A minimum of 3 inches (±7.5 cm) of overlap is required for non-interlocking tiles (interlocking tiles will immediately represent the measurement for you), and a small amount of dangling should be left on the trim. Take this into account when you determine the locations of the battens.
- Once you've determined the distance between the first two battens, measure the distance and adjust the battens using that distance all the way up, making sure to double-check the size as you do this.
Step 2. Install the tiles
Start with one side first, and then move as far as the length of the roof.
- If you haven't already installed the battens, you can nail the tiles directly to the boards or roof panels.
- If you have installed the battens beforehand, you will be nailing the tiles to the battens. You can also use tongs to attach the tiles to the battens.
- If you use battens that interlock tightly, you may not need to nail all the tiles to the boards or roofing panels or the battens; Read the accompanying instructions carefully for a detailed explanation.
Step 3. Cut the tiles to fit into the narrow points
Obstacles, such as chimneys, will prevent tile installation, and the tile should be cut to fit tightly around these areas. In addition, at the end of each row the precarious almost certainly has to be cut..
Step 4. Install the ridge tiles
Once you've completed the "plane"--that is, the wide surface of the roof--you'll need to cover the top with ridge tiles. These ridge tiles are rounded, and depending on the design, the ridge tiles can be styled end to end or in an overlapping style. This should be the final stage in the tile installation process. Congratulations on the successful assembly of your new roof tile!
Warning
- Roof tiles contain crystalline silica, which is a substance known to cause cancer. Cutting or grinding tiles can result in the suction of silica dust. Wear appropriate safety equipment at all times.
- Use a ladder or scaffold that has been evaluated for your weight. Using equipment that is not assessed for your weight will result in injury or death. If you don't know the exact strength of your ladder or scaffolding, don't use it.
- If you find extensive damage or you don't know exactly how to install any part of the roof, stop and call a professional roofing specialist.
