Commercial cherries are grown by grafting so the grower knows the variety of fruit to be obtained. Grafting is done because the cherries grown from seeds produce bitter fruit. Growing cherries can be a great project for home gardeners and those looking for houseplants. Planting cherry seeds is done by placing dried cherry seeds in loose, neutral soil that gets plenty of sunlight to a depth of 2.5 cm during early fall. You can also grow cherries indoors, and move them outdoors in the spring. Keep in mind that cherry trees often grow to a height of 7.5 meters or more, and you can't be sure the tree will bear much fruit. So make sure you really want this tree to grow in your garden!
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Part 1 of 3: Preparing the Cherry Plant
Step 1. Know what you're getting
Cherries don't grow from seed. That is, the cherry tree that grows is not necessarily the same variety as the parent. You may get seeds that do not survive the climate or disease in your area, or do not produce good fruit. However, you may also get a healthy and beautiful tree so you can have a lot of fun planting it.
If you want to increase your chances of getting a good tree, it's a good idea to plant a sapling. Local nurseries can provide plant recommendations that are appropriate for your climate and soil
Step 2. Select the cherries to plant
Ideally, try to find fresh cherries from local trees or traditional markets in mid to late summer. Varieties that bear fruit early are usually sterile, while fruit in supermarkets can be used, but the chances of success are very low. Buy in bulk because not all of them will sprout. There are two common cherry species to choose from:
- Almost all fresh cherries sold have a sweet taste. The fruit is fine to eat, but in America, these cherries can only survive USDA resistance zones 5-7.
- Sour cherries tend to be easier to grow, and can survive in zones 3-8 (United States only), depending on the variety. So, try asking in traditional markets.
Step 3. Eat cherries
Fortunately, the flesh of the cherries must be removed before planting. Eat your cherries and wipe off any flesh remaining on the seeds with a damp paper towel.
When it's early or midsummer, let the seeds dry on paper towels for two days, then store in an airtight container and place in a cool place. Take it back at the end of summer and move on to the next step
Step 4. Consider planting outdoors in early fall
Cherries must receive constant humidity and cold temperatures for 3-5 months to germinate. If the upcoming winter weather lasts during that time frame, and the temperature doesn't fall below -30º C, you can take the easy route and plant cherries in the fall. If so, move on to the next section. If you don't live in a cold climate and want a method with a high chance of success, move on to the next step.
It's best to plant sweet cherries in warm weather two weeks before temperatures turn cold. This means that you need to plant cherries in late summer or early fall. However, the "warm snap" (temporarily warm weather after cold weather begins) can make some cherries return to dormancy. Read an almanac or other long-term weather forecast to prevent this from happening.
Step 5. Keep the sweet cherries in moist, warm sphagnum moss for two weeks (optional)
Many people skip this step and the cherry buds will still grow, but this will increase the germination rate for most sweet cherries. Here's how to prepare for this process called warm stratification:
- Buy moss leaves that are still fresh and sterile. This moss fights the fungus that is currently the biggest threat to cherry crops. Use gloves when handling the moss to avoid getting the spores.
- Place the moss in a plastic bag or container and add water at room temperature (20ºC). Allow the moss to soak up the water for 8-10 hours, then squeeze out any excess water.
- Make a few air holes in the lid of the container. If you are using a plastic bag, leave the mouth slightly open.
- Add the cherry seeds and let them sit for two weeks at the same temperature. Check after a day or two to remove any stagnant water, then remove any mold seeds each week.
Step 6. Transfer to a damp, cool material
Next, you need to make sure your indoor cherry plants are able to survive the winter. This process called “cold stratification” is very similar to the last step, with a few differences:
- You can go back to using leaf moss, but peat moss or a mixture of peat moss and sand in a balanced ratio (1:1) will give the best results. Vermiculite can also be used.
- Add enough water to moisten the ingredients without getting soggy, then add the cherry seeds.
- Place in the refrigerator or other area at 0.5-5ºC (ideally in the upper half of this range).
Step 7. Leave in the refrigerator for about 90 days
Most cherries require 3 months of cold care before they are ready to be planted, and some require 5 months. Check the seeds weekly or less. Remove any standing water (if any), and add a little water if your material dries up.
Check more frequently towards the end of this period. If the hard seed coat begins to crack, plant the plant immediately or reduce the temperature to 0ºC until you are ready
Step 8. Plant in the spring
As soon as the spring frosts melt, cherry plants can be planted in the ground. Check the next section for further instructions.
If you want to start early, you can plant cherries in pots indoors
Part 2 of 3: Planting Cherry Seeds
Step 1. Choose a place that has good soil
Cherries need lots of sun and good airflow. Cherries like fertile, sandy soil with good drainage and a neutral or slightly acidic pH level.
- Young trees need room for taproot growth, about 20 cm deep.
- Cherries are very difficult to grow in clay. If you want to seriously try, make a mound 30 cm high.
Step 2. Plant less than 2.5-5 cm deep
Make a hole with your finger up to the first knuckle, and drop a cherry seed into the hole. Now, plant the cherry seeds 30 cm each, but estimate that you will eventually transplant the surviving plants 6 meters apart.
You can plant cherries close together, but thin them once the shoots reach 5 cm
Step 3. Cover the seeds depending on the season
If you are following the method of planting in the fall, cover the cherries with 2.5-5 cm of sand. This prevents the frozen layer of bark from blocking the shoots as they emerge. If you're planting seeds in the spring, simply fill the hole until it's level with the soil.
Step 4. Protect the seeds from rodents
If planted directly into the soil, the seeds will become a prime target for digging animals. Cover the area with a wire screen or gauze, bend the edges, and bury it a few inches into the soil to form a shield. Remove this shield when the first shoots appear.
Step 5. Water occasionally after the last ice has melted
Sprinkle a little water after the last ice melts in spring. You should only water when the soil is almost dry. Young cherries can't stand waterlogging, but they don't dry out too long either.
Step 6. Wait for the germination period
Cherries are very slow to germinate. If you follow the warm and cold stratification, shoots are likely to appear in the next few months. However, some seeds may take a year to germinate and emerge the following spring.
Part 3 of 3: Caring for Young Cherry Trees
Step 1. Keep the soil moist
The soil should be kept moist so it doesn't stagnate. Once the cherry taproot has grown, test the soil to a depth (7.5 cm) and water when the soil feels dry. Drizzle water into the soil until it is wet to the depth of the roots. At first the process is quite easy, but as the tree grows your work gets more and more.
Step 2. Move the tree once it is strong enough
If the tree has grown to a height of 15 cm, or is large enough for the tree's roots to reach the bottom of the pot, it is best to move it to a wider area. You can thin out the lowest shoots or increase the distance between the trees. The distance between each tree should be 6 meters. Keep in mind, transplants should be done when the trees are dormant, usually in winter. If transplanted while actively growing, the tree will feel stressed and then die.
Don't forget that cherry trees can grow to a height of (7.5–15 m), depending on the variety. When pruned, you can keep the tree 4.5 m tall or less
Step 3. Mulch annually
Topdress (sprinkle a layer of sand, earth, or other material) on your trees using well-decomposing compost annually in early spring. Start in the year the shoots appear as mulch can keep them out of the soil.
It's best not to use fertilizer on young trees because they can burn trees easily. The tree's nutritional needs should have been met by compost
Step 4. Protect from pests
The hardest part about growing cherries is their susceptibility to pests and diseases. Take these steps to protect the cherry once it grows into a good tree:
- Surround the sapling with a cylindrical wire fence to protect it from deer. Do this as soon as the tree starts to appear.
- Once a month, look for holes in tree trunks that emit mucus or sawdust-like frass powder. Insert needles into these holes to kill insects.
- In spring, cover cherry tree trunks with mosquito netting to prevent insects from laying eggs on the tree.
- In late autumn, bury the hardware protective cloth into the ground to a depth of 5 cm to protect the tree from rodents. This shield should be high enough to protect the tree from rodents roaming around in snowy weather.
Step 5. Protect the tree from the winter sun
In early fall, whitewash the south side of the tree with white non-toxic latex paint diluted with water to a runny consistency. During this time, cherry trees are susceptible to sun damage.
Lay out the north side if you are in the southern hemisphere
Step 6. Prune the cherry tree as it grows
Cherry trees are not difficult to prune, but they will produce more fruit and make them look more beautiful. The sour cherry tree is simply pruned slightly to keep the branches symmetrical. For sweet cherries, prune at the main trunk so the tree grows sideways.
Step 7. Consider grafting
If left alone, cherry trees will bear fruit in 5 years or so. The risk of grafting is higher if done on a new tree because you don't know the variety. However, you can ask your local nursery for advice on the cherry species that produce fruit. You can graft on a two year old tree and if successful, the tree will bear fruit in the third or fourth year.
Step 8. Help pollinate cherry blossoms
Many people plant cherry trees just to see the beautiful flowers. However, if you want your tree to bear fruit, the cherry blossoms need to be fertilized. For most sweet cherries, you will need a second variety of sweet cherries growing near the first cherry tree and blooming at the same time. Honey bees are the most common pollinator for cherry blossoms. If you use pesticides, make sure these important insects are not affected.
Step 9. Get rid of the birds
The cherry tree is always bothered by birds. If your tree looks like it's starting to bear fruit, set up a defense immediately before the cherries ripen. There are several ways to distract or repel birds, including planting mulberries (which birds prefer over cherries) and hanging shiny objects from cherry tree branches.
Commercial growers sometimes spread nets over trees to deter birds and other pests from attacking cherry trees
Tips
- To get fruit, you usually need two varieties of sweet cherries to fertilize each other. Sour cherries are usually self-fertilizing.
- Since it usually takes 7-8 years before the cherry trees bear fruit, consider planting a new bunch each year. That way, you have a “rescue net” in case some trees die before they mature.
- The yellow cherry variety is not very fond of birds, but takes 6 years or more to bear fruit.
