All planters have faced problems in improving the quality of their land. Not all soil is suitable for growing crops, and improving the quality of the land is one of the main jobs of the gardener, regardless of the size of the land. To effectively improve soil quality, you need special skills and strategies. Find some commonly used ways to improve soil quality and increase garden yields effectively below.
Step
Part 1 of 3: Improving Soil Nutrients
Step 1. Check what nutrients your plants need
There are three nutrients that are very important in gardening: nitrogen (N) which supports the growth of stems and leaves, phosphorus (P) for roots, fruit and seeds, and potassium (K) for maintaining plant resistance to disease and overall health. Young plants may need more phosphorus because it is needed for leaf growth. In addition, these nutrients are usually not needed by plants when they are not in the growing season. For best results, investigate what nutrients your plants need. These general plant nutrients are expressed in terms of their respective "NPK" composition ratios.
Send a soil sample to the local agriculture office to find out the constituent components in detail. Not all gardens require this step, unless your plants are growing slowly or experiencing discoloration
Step 2. Use organic fertilizer
Materials derived from plants and animals such as fish emulsion or fish hydrolyzate can be used as excellent fertilizers for long-term microbial growth, so the soil will remain rich in nutrients and loose. Synthetic fertilizers made in the laboratory are usually only able to provide nutrients but cannot improve soil conditions, and sometimes can even cause negative effects.
You should always protect your face and hands when applying fertilizer. Plant fertilizers may contain bacteria and other things that are harmful to health
Step 3. Use manure or other organic matter
Instead of using factory-made fertilizers, look for other options that are cheaper and natural, and available at farm stores. Some of the options you can consider include:
- In order not to damage plants, manure should be left to rot for at least one month before use. Chicken or turkey manure is cheap, but it can spill over large areas of land. Rabbit, goat, cow, and sheep manure is of better quality and smells less offensive to the nose.
- Add bone meal to increase the phosphorus content, or dry blood meal to increase the nitrogen content.
Step 4. Make your own compost
To ripen compost, it usually takes four to eight months, unless you add special bacteria to speed up the process. If given continuously, this long-term preparation is very beneficial for soil texture and nutrition. Prepare a large container that can be tightly closed to protect from animals, but has holes for airflow outside the house. Make compost using the following technique:
- Start with about 20% mature soil, manure, or compost; food residues from raw plants by 10 to 30%; and dry leaves, lawn and lawn debris by 50 to 70%. Mix all ingredients until smooth.
- Keep the compost moist and warm, and add raw non-meat ingredients from kitchen waste.
- Turn the compost over with a shovel or pitchfork at least once every week or two, so that oxygen that promotes the growth of beneficial bacteria can enter.
- Put the earthworms in the compost container. You can look for worms in damp areas under rocks.
- Compost will ripen (ready to use) if it sticks together when clenched, but breaks down easily. Plant fibers may still be visible, but most of the compost is homogeneous.
Step 5. Add soil fertilizing ingredients
Almost all planters mix additional fertilizer evenly into the soil, either by using solid fertilizer, rotting manure, or compost. Most plants do well with a mixture of 30% compost and 70% soil, but fruit and vegetables will grow better if you reduce the amount of compost. The amount of fertilizer applied will vary depending on the level. Follow the directions that are appropriate for the plant you are growing.
- The "no digging, no tillage" gardening technique recommends not digging or tilling the soil, but simply adding this fertilizing agent to the soil's surface and letting it decompose gradually. Although it can take years and the application of large amounts of organic matter to feel the results, horticultural experts view that this is a more natural way to improve soil quality.
- Add fertilizer in the fall if you want the best results. Many plants can use additives every month or two during the growing season, but this will vary depending on the plant species and variety.
- If the manure or compost isn't too rotten, apply it in a circle around the plant to protect it from stinging material.
Step 6. Add micro minerals
There are many micro minerals that do not have a direct effect or play a major role, but can cause health problems in plants or reduce soil quality if the levels are below the required amount. If you want to add this ingredient, mix green sand, seaweed powder, or Azomite © into the soil before planting. This step may not be necessary for a small garden around the house, unless there is a health problem with your plants.
- The most needed micro minerals are iron, boron, copper, manganese, molybdenum, and zinc.
- The additives described here are natural ingredients for organic farming.
Step 7. Consider rotating crops
If you grow the same type of crop in the same area of soil for years, your soil's nutrients will quickly deplete. Some plants use very little nutrients or even add nitrogen to the soil, so soil nutrient levels will be more stable when you rotate the crops you grow.
- You can start planting gardens around the house according to a simple crop rotation guide. For agricultural land, consult with experienced farmers or with the local agriculture office, because crop rotation is also determined by the type.
- In the 4 seasons region, farmers can also use "cover crops" (during winter) as a source of nutrition for the actual crop. Plant winter-hardy plants at least 30 days before the first frost, or 60 days if they are not very cold-tolerant. Prune or trim the plant at least three or four weeks before you plant the actual plant, and leave the cover crop above the ground to allow it to rot.
Step 8. Add beneficial fungi or bacteria
The microbial population will increase by itself if the soil is well aerated and gets sufficient nutrients. These microbes will break down dead plants into nutrients that can be reused by plants. To make the soil healthier, you can buy additional bacteria or fungi that match the type of plant at the farm store. While there are no definite rules for how much to use and when to stop using, these additional bacteria or fungi are not necessary if the soil decomposes quickly.
- One of the commonly used additions is a type of fungus called mycorrhizae. This fungus will stick to the plant roots and help the roots absorb more water and nutrients. This fungus is useful for all plants except the genus Brassica (including mustard and cabbage-type vegetables such as broccoli and bok choy), unless conditions are very fertile.
- In the soil often there is already a bacterium called rhizobium, but you can buy rhizobium growing material to be sure. These bacteria establish mutually beneficial relationships with legumes such as potatoes and beans, as they add nitrogen to the soil.
Part 2 of 3: Improving Soil Texture
Step 1. Understand the soil texture triangle
Soil scientists divide soil-forming particles into three categories. The largest part is sand particles, next is silt (soil particles that are smaller than fine sand but larger than clay), and the least part of the particles is clay. The ratio of the three types of particles determines the type of soil and is depicted in the form of a graph called the "soil texture triangle". Most plants need soil that is "loose", or roughly a mixture of sand, silt, and clay in a ratio of 40-40-20 each.
Succulent plants and cacti prefer "loose sandy" soil with a sand content of 60 or 70%
Step 2. Try doing a quick soil texture test
Take a pinch of soil from the surface layer. Wet the soil, then roll it into a ball and flatten it into a ribbon. This quick and dirty way can detect important problems according to the diagnosis below:
- If the soil band breaks before it reaches 2.5 cm in length, your soil is loose or silty. (If you can't form a ball or band at all, then your soil is sandy).
- If the soil band does not break until it reaches 2.5 to 5 cm, it means that the soil is loamy loose. Such soils can be improved by adding sand and silt.
- If the soil band is more than 5 cm long, it means the soil is loam. Clay soils must be supplemented with the main ingredient, as described at the end of this section.
Step 3. Take a soil sample for thorough testing
If you're still unsure of the texture of the soil, take about 20 minutes to do the test, then wait a few minutes for more accurate information. To begin, remove the soil at the surface, then dig a soil sample to a depth of about 15 cm. Spread the soil sample over the newspaper and let it dry. Remove all trash, rocks, and other large objects. Break up lumps of soil, separating as much as possible.
Step 4. Mix the required ingredients for the test using a tube
Once dry, put the soil into a large and tall tube, until it reaches the height of the tube. Add water until it reaches the height of the jar, then add 5 ml (1 teaspoon) of non-foaming dish soap. Cover the jar and shake for at least five minutes to break up into small pieces.
Step 5. Mark the tube when the soil settles
Leave the tube for a minimum of two days, and mark the outside with marker or tape at the following time intervals:
- After one minute, mark the tube on the top line of the settled particles. This is sand, which settles first because it has a larger size.
- After two hours, mark the tube again. At this time, almost all the silt will settle on the sand.
- For the third time, mark the tube after the water is clear. Soils that contain a lot of clay may take a week or two to settle, whereas looser soils may only take a few days for the water to turn clear.
- Measure the distance between each mark to get the sum of each particle. Divide each measurement by the total particle height to get the percentage of the particle type. For example, if the height of the sand in your jar is 5 cm and the total height of all the particle layers is 10 cm, your soil is 50% sandy (5 10 = 0.5 = 50).
Step 6. Use compost and natural debris to improve the soil
When your soil is loose, you don't need to do anything to it. Mature compost is essential for loamy soils, as explained in the section on soil nutrition. You can also add other natural additions such as dry leaves or grass clippings for the same purpose.
Decayed wood chips, twigs, or tree bark can increase the soil's ability to retain water and nutrients by creating pores in the soil and absorbing these additional materials for slow release. Do not use new wood, because it can reduce nitrogen levels in the soil
Step 7. Make manual ground adjustments
If you have a heavy loam (more than 20% clay), or very sandy or silty soil (more than 60% sand or 60% silt), mix different types of soil to get the same ratio of sand to silt, with no more than 20% clay. You do have to work harder, but this method is faster than making your own compost. The goal is to create a porous soil that can store large amounts of water, nutrients, and air.
- Remember that you should only use unsalted, very sharp sand.
- Perlite, which can be purchased at a farm shop, is very useful for all types of soil, especially clay. This material basically acts as a very large particle.
Step 8. Overcome soil compaction
Keep the ground clear of people or vehicles so that it is well aerated. If the soil appears compacted or crusty at the top, turn the soil over and break up large lumps of soil with a pitchfork. If the soil is very dense, use a plow, or make lots of holes with a lawn aerator. Although it holds water well, overcrowded soil can kill beneficial bacteria and fungi, as well as encourage the growth of harmful anaerobic bacteria.
- As explained in the soil nutrition section, mixing organic matter can also help.
- Dandelions and other plants with long taproots can be used to prevent the soil from clumping and becoming compacted.
- You can also use the "no-cultivating no-digging" gardening technique to maintain soil texture. Thus, the naturally formed texture can last for years. Limit people or vehicles passing on the ground if you use this method.
Part 3 of 3: Adjusting Soil pH
Step 1. Take a soil sample
For accurate results, remove the topsoil to a layer of consistent color and texture, usually at a depth of about 5 cm from the top. Dig a hole 15 cm deep. Take soil samples several times throughout the yard or field at random, so that they are representative of the condition of the entire garden.
Step 2. Test the soil pH
This soil sample can be sent to your local agriculture office or soil testing laboratory, and you may incur costs to test the pH or acidity of the soil. However, you can also buy a pH tester at a farm store or seed seller, so you can easily use it at home.
If you're a farmer, it's a good idea to send a soil sample to a professional soil tester, to find out how much additional material is needed. If you're just a home gardener, just use a test kit that's faster and cheaper, then try adding different amounts of the ingredient to see what the effect is
Step 3. Check what your plants need
Many plants prefer slightly acidic soil. If no other information is available, try to keep the soil pH at 6.5. However, it's also a good idea to find a suitable pH for your plants online, or consult an experienced gardener.
If you don't know what pH your plants need, assume that "acidic soil" has a pH of 6.0 to 6.5, while "alkaline soil" means it has a pH of 7.5 to 8
Step 4. Make your soil more alkaline
If the soil pH is too low for plants, increase the soil pH by adding a base. Head to the farm store for garden lime, crushed oyster shells, or other calcium additives, or crush eggshells and grind them into a powder. Mix the additive into the soil one handful at a time, and test the soil pH each time you add this.
Step 5. Make your soil more acidic
If you want to lower the pH of the soil, you will need additional acid. Purchase aluminum sulfate or sulfur at a farm store and mix it into the soil. Then retest the soil pH after each time you add a handful of additives.
There is no consistent, at-home way to raise soil pH levels. Scientific testing has shown that pine leaves and coffee grounds have no real and significant effect on soil acidity, although many people think otherwise
Step 6. Test your soil every three years
Over time, the soil pH will gradually return to its normal level. This is largely influenced by the type of minerals present in your area. Testing the soil every three years is fine, unless your soil pH is difficult to adjust or your plants are having growth problems.
Tips
- The content of toxic chemicals in the soil is rare. But it's worth investigating if you live near an industrial area, a landfill, or a toxic waste dump, or if you grow food crops by the side of a highway. Send the soil sample to the local agriculture office for testing and inspection. Hazardous chemicals may need to be handled professionally, but some may only need to be diluted by adding a layer of soil.
- Prevent cats from defecating in the garden by spreading a thin layer of hay, except around the plants. Straw can also increase the soil's ability to retain water and raise soil temperature. This method can be useful or harmful depending on the characteristics of the soil and climate in your area.
Warning
- Waste from citrus fruits is not good for composting, because it takes a long time to decompose and reduces worm activity.
- Protect your hands, face and other body parts from being contaminated with various materials used to improve soil. Read the warnings on the product packaging and look for information about safe ways to use chemicals in soil improvement.
- If you want to improve your soil using a variety of organic materials, try limiting the use of nuisance plant seeds. Seeds like these can sprout when it's time for gardening and cause problems.
- Never fertilize the soil using dog or cat feces, because both types of dirt can be a breeding ground for diseases that are dangerous to humans.
