Rats are one of the most famous, most hated, and most difficult pests of modern times. Plague rats can cause serious problems - not only do they eat food and leave crumbs everywhere, but they also have the potential to spread diseases (like hantaviruses, and most famously, black fever) and dangerous parasites (like fleas). To deal with a rat plague, start placing traps and be prepared to seek professional help with pest control.
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Part 1 of 3: Picking Traps
Step 1. Purchase multiple devices at once
When you find out that your home has rats, you have to work fast. The sooner you start trapping rats, the less chance the rat population will have to grow. Start by going to your nearest hardware store and buying lots of mousetrap - the more you can get, the better chance you have of trapping mice. Most disposable mousetraps are very cheap, so it's okay to buy as many as you can. If spending more will prevent rat problems in the long run, then it's a good investment. Take a look at the steps below to find out what types of mouse traps are available in the market.
An exception to this applies if you use live traps. Live traps tend to be more expensive than regular single-use traps, it might be a little overwhelming to buy more than one. Also, live traps are only suitable for “small” mouse problems - for example when there are only one or two mouse holes in your home. Furthermore, you run the risk of failing to catch all the mice before they start breeding. Read on to know more about the traps of life
Step 2. Use a tweezers trap
The “classic” trap with a metal spring attached to a piece of wood has proven to be effective in trapping rats. The trap works by clamping the mouse's neck with steel wire when it tries to grab the bait. Trap traps are usually available in a variety of sizes, so make sure you buy one that is large enough to kill mice in your home - using a trap that is too small can injure the mouse without killing it and causing it to die slowly from suffocation.
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Excess:
If used properly, it can kill mice quickly and effectively. This trap can be used repeatedly until it breaks, so it can be placed in a “problem area” for an extended period of time.
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Deficiency:
May cause bleeding, severe injury, etc. The trap can injure you if it pinches suddenly.
Step 3. Use mouse glue
Mouse glue is a block or sheet covered by a very sticky surface with a bait holder in the middle. When the rat tries to grab the bait, its feet get trapped in the glue. The more he struggles to free himself, the glue can catch his mouth and run out of breath. Although mouse glue can be considered quite effective at trapping rats, in larger and stronger rats, this trap is quite questionable for controlling the existing rat population. Even a large rat glue might not kill a rat right away, so you'll have to kill it yourself.
- Excess Cheap, disposable. Also can catch insects, spiders, etc. Inadvertently.
- Disadvantages:' Doesn't always kill mice right away. Or don't even kill it at all, so you have to kill the poor rat that's trapped yourself. Considered inhumane by many animal rights organizations, including PETA. Not always effective - the glue will quickly dry slowly.
Step 4. Use rat poison
Rat poison-based traps are usually in the form of a “container” with a ready-to-use poison package. This container will be placed in an area frequented by rats, then the rat will eat the poison, leave, then die. While poison kills rats more effectively than other methods, it is also dangerous for small children, pets, and such things, so it's crucial to use these traps responsibly.
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Excess:
Easy to set up - no need to check if the rat is dead or not, as the rat will leave the trap and die elsewhere. Can be used for a long time as long as the poison is replaced regularly. This makes rat poison very suitable for eradicating rats outside the home.
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Deficiency:
The death of a rat can take hours or days. There is no guarantee that the rats ingested lethal doses of poison. It is possible to poison small children, pets, or non-pest animals if not used with care. For domestic use, mice may die in hard-to-reach places and begin to rot.
Step 5. Alternatively, just use live traps
There are no rules that require you to kill rats. Live traps, which usually take the form of small metal cages, can catch mice without harming them at all. This is usually done by trapping the rat with bait placed on a pressure sensitive base. When a mouse steps on it, the door will close and trap the mouse inside. If you are using live traps, make sure to use a cage that is small enough to keep the mice from escaping. As a general rule, if a mouse can get its head through the bars of the cage easily, it can escape easily. Some types of mice can even pass through a space of 1.5 cm wide.
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Excess:
Doesn't hurt mice. Considered inhumane by animal rights groups including PETA.
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Deficiency:
Tends to be expensive. Instructions for use - traps should be checked regularly and emptied whenever a rat is caught. Although it doesn't guarantee the same mice won't be a problem in the future.
Step 6. Pay attention to pets or small children
When you choose a trap to use, it is very important to consider the risk that people or animals could become victims of an unwanted event - especially animals and small children. If you have pets or small children, you don't need to stop buying traps, but try to pay more attention to their safety with the tools they use. This includes keeping an eye on your children or pets when in the area around the trap, and if necessary, creating safety barriers such as a playpen wall, etc.
- For smaller pets such as small dogs, ferrets, hamsters, and the like, larger traps can cause serious injury. Bigger animals and children are also still at risk for fractures, cuts and things like that if they get caught in a trap.
- Rat glue can cause pain and discomfort if pets or children step on it accidentally. In rare cases, rat glue can be life threatening if it gets stuck around the nose and mouth. To get rid of mouse glue, apply baby oil to the area and remove it with a spoon.
- Toxins can cause side effects ranging from mild to severe depending on the amount of exposure to the poison. If you believe your child or pet has eaten rat poison, contact poison control as soon as possible - the help you can get may be a lifesaver.
Step 7. For a severe rat outbreak, call in an exterminator
While it's possible to overcome the plague with all the pitfalls you have, it's best to seek professional help. If you don't want to get rid of the pest yourself and believe the rat infestation is too big, get an exterminator for help as soon as possible. Most exterminators offer assistance in many ways, including the use of mechanical traps, killer traps, ultrasonic echoes and rodenticides. The harbingers of a great plague are:
- Rats are seen in the open - most rats will hide, so if you see them often in open areas that means there are plenty of them.
- Frequent appearances of crumbs and leftovers.
- There are dirty and greasy “trails” along the walls.
- The presence of bite marks on stored food ingredients.
- There are small gaps at the ends of the walls and cupboards.
- There is no sign of a reduction in the number of mice even though you have caught many.
Part 2 of 3: Placing Your Traps
Step 1. Bait your traps before they are placed
Once you've selected and purchased the trap you want, you'll need to bait it (except for poison traps). Put the bait you want to use in the space provided. Usually, for a thong trap, the bait should be on the “platform” opposite the swing arm. While mouse glue, usually has a peg in the middle to place the bait. Your bait should be small, made from food rats love - don't use too much bait or the rats will easily steal it without activating the trap. Some examples of bait for mousetrap are:
- Peanut butter
- Pork or other meat
- Most fruits and vegetables
- Cereals
- Cheese (of course)
- Commercial mouse bait (available at hardware stores and online pest control dealers)
Step 2. Watch for food debris for signs of areas frequented by rats
One of the most obvious signs of a rat is the presence of crumbs and food debris. Wherever you find it is a great place to place a trap - if rats ever come there, they're likely to come back again.
Be careful when cleaning crumbs from rats - certain diseases, such as hantaviruses, can occur accidentally when cleaning up particles of food or rat droppings. Wear gloves and a face shield when cleaning rat droppings and be sure to wash your hands when you're done
Step 3. Set traps in the house along the walls and corners of the room
For rat problems in the house, it is usually better if you place the trap directly against the walls and corners of the room where the rats (or mouse droppings) are. Mice won't go through an open path where they can easily be seen, so placing a mousetrap in the middle of the room won't work unless you're sure that rats will pass through there.
If using a pinch trap, place the trap perpendicular to the wall so that the tip of the bait touches the wall. This will allow the animal to touch the bait platform as it passes
Step 4. Set outdoor traps in narrow crevices and under foliage
Rats are a little harder to catch on the outside because it's hard to predict their movements. Try placing the traps along narrow gaps that rats often pass through, such as tree branches, tops of fences, sewers, and the like. You may also want to place the trap under the leaves, as mice tend to like dark, hidden places.
If you have time, try spending a few minutes looking for “rat trails” – small paths in the grass that rats use to traverse. Place traps along this path to start catching mice
Step 5. Consider placing the trap outside for a few days
Rats can be suspicious of some objects that suddenly appear where they pass, so they hesitate to go and eat the bait. In this case, you may want to "leave" your trap outside for a few days to get used to the mice. Then, set traps and bait - the rats will approach them fearlessly, making it very likely to be caught.
Step 6. Check your traps regularly
Once you have your traps set up, make it a habit to check them once a day to make sure everything is running smoothly. You don't want to find a rotting rat carcass if you rarely check your traps, because rotting rat carcasses can give off an unpleasant odor, the presence of insects and reptiles, and harmful bacteria. Check out the description below for more information on how to get rid of mice that you have trapped.
It's just as important to check for live traps as it is to check for deadly traps. Leaving rats in the trap for too long can cause them to die, especially in high room temperatures that rats cannot tolerate
Part 3 of 3: Removing Trapped Rats
Step 1. Do not touch the mouse directly
While not all rats carry harmful diseases, some do, so it's important to take precautions to protect yourself when handling rats (live or dead). Wear sterile gloves and avoid touching the rat directly, but hold the trap. Take off your gloves and wash your hands when you're done removing the mice and never touch your face, eyes, or mouth afterwards if you haven't cleaned yourself.
Step 2. Kill mice that are only injured and have not died humanely
Unfortunately, deadly traps don't always kill perfectly - sometimes, you'll find mice that are injured and can't escape, but are still alive. In this case, the most humane thing would be to kill the poor rat quickly. Disposing of an injured rat will cause it to die slowly and painfully from starvation or predation.
- While many animal rights groups (including PETA) condemn the use of lethal traps, some animal rights groups support the use of two types of euthanasia (humane killing) namely nape fracture and asphyxiation. Cracking the nape of the neck means breaking the spinal cord in the neck of the rat quickly, and hard, while asphyxiation is the use of a poisonous gas such as carbon dioxide to kill the rat in a special place.
- See our article on humane killing of rodents for more information.
Step 3. Bury or dispose of dead mice
If you find a dead mouse in your trap, getting rid of it is relatively easy: carefully place the mouse in a plastic bag and throw it in the trash, or dig a hole in the ground a few feet deep and bury the mouse, making sure to bury it deep enough, so that Your neighbor's pet can't dig it out.
When using mouse glue, you will need to remove the entire trap along with the dead mouse. Don't reuse mouse glue - they won't work a second time and it's very difficult to get rid of mice that are already trapped
Step 4. Release live mice out of the house
If you catch a live mouse with a live trap, set the trap on the ground, then slowly open the door to let the mice out. If you are interested in keeping the rat alive, try removing it 92 meters from where you caught it. Releasing a rat in an unfamiliar area will make it more susceptible to predators and starvation.
Note, however, that if you release a live mouse into the open, there is no guarantee it will not return to your home. In this case, it is very important to make your home “pest-proof” to ensure that the root cause of the problem doesn't come back. This includes removing food sources, sealing the house with steel wool, clearing any places that might be a rat nest, and things like that. Read our article on how to make your home pest-resistant for more information
Step 5. Wash your hands and traps when you're done
When you dispose of mice, remove gloves and wash your hands thoroughly to remove certain bacteria that may have transferred to your hands. After that, you can carefully wash your traps to reuse them (unless you used mouse glue, which can't be reused).
Tips
- If you have nails and a hammer, you can not only place the traps on the floor - you also have the option of nailing them to walls, doors, and other vertical surfaces. This can be useful for catching mice as they like to walk on high places.
- Another option for getting rid of mice is to have a cat or dog that can kill rodents, such as a schnauzer, Rat Terrier, Jack Russell, dachshund, Yorkshire Terrier, etc.
