Despite being out of date, wallpaper has made a significant comeback. Whether with unique vintage prints, minimalist modern patterns, or classic colors, wallpaper accents walls and rooms. Don't let a lack of wallpaper knowledge keep you from using this classic material to transform your home. Learn how to set your own wallpaper, and save your money and avoid frustration! Soon you will have a beautiful new room to show off to your friends and family.
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Method 1 of 5: Preparing Your Room
Step 1. Measure your room
Wallpaper manufacturers can help you calculate how much wallpaper you need, but here's a quick way to calculate it. Take notes and measure the height and width of the room from each part of the wall. For example, two walls are 12' wide x 8' high, and two walls 11' wide x 8' high. The count is:
- 12x8=96, 12x8=96, 11x8=88, 11x8=88. 96+96+88+88 = 368 sq. ft.
- Now you're starting to think, “What about the doors and windows? I have to reduce it, right?” Wrong. More paper is required for incorrect calculations, so keep calculating the blank area.
Step 2. Clear the room
Grab the utensils and remove the switches, towel handles, toilet paper handles etc. Remove everything pasted on the wall (turn off the power first). This is used to prevent loss of nails or to keep them, nails back into place after they have all been removed.
Step 3. Prepare the walls
Wallpaper is difficult to stick if the walls are dirty and greasy, so first wipe with a cloth. Patch any holes in the wall, and wait for the patch and the water on the wall to dry.
- You put wallpaper on the wall to be painted, give it a primer first.
- If you have wallpaper pasted on your wall, remove it first before sticking a new one. This is to make it more durable.
Step 4. Determine the starting point of the attachment in your room
The most common suggestion is in the most inconspicuous end of the room. For example, in the bedroom, it is usually located behind the door. Generally, don't start sticking in the middle, unless your wall is accented. Select an area from the corner so that it is not visible.
- If you're sticking in the shower, doing it from the back wall of the toilet will be very difficult, so better start sticking it there (most toilets will need two rows to line it up) as you'll need a lot more energy and patience.
- Stand in the exact position where you can see the entire length of the two walls to be pasted before you start from the corner side.
Step 5. Make measurements
Measure the first section from the ceiling to the floor. Usually, for a house with a 2.45 m ceiling, your measurements will be around 28 m because most people have a base on the floor. Roll your wallpaper on the table or floor, straightening the pattern. Double-check your measurements so that there are no mistakes in cutting them. The goal is to keep your paper in large sections so you can create a more natural look.
Step 6. Draw a reference line
Take a measuring tape, 0.6 m and a pencil and start at the starting point in your room. You will need to make reference lines to ensure that the first paper sticks neatly from top to bottom. Measure horizontally also the width of the wallpaper from your starting point. Subtract inch from this, and draw a vertical line from this point.
- Do it in the room and make other reference lines in the corners and new walls. This is to ensure that your wallpaper has been pasted regularly.
- Don't use an ink pen to draw the outline, as the glue will cause the ink to stain the wallpaper.
Method 2 of 5: Setting Up Your Wallpaper
Step 1. Look at the last number
Check all to make sure they are all on the same “Run#” Sometimes it can be called “Lot #” or “Batch #”. This is important because the same pattern will be printed on production. It's very common for different runs to have slightly different colors and backgrounds.
Step 2. Check for defects
Check everything so that defects can be found in the printing process. Usually different colors, ink, wrong color. One defect in the whole roller can be cut. If there is a defect in the paper you can lose the 2.4m stip then you can ask for a replacement.
Step 3. Find a pattern to repeat
Find the object at the end of the paper, measure the paper until you get an object that is exactly the same. This distance is called pattern repeat. Keep this measurement in mind, as you will be using it to line the strip of paper.
Step 4. Identify the appropriate pattern
It could be a line or a dot. Line means when the two papers are placed side by side and have a pattern on a horizontal line. Dots mean when the pattern is moved up or down slightly horizontally on each strip.
- For example, you will have a line if you see the butterfly on the left end of the paper when you lay it in a row and the pattern matches the next paper and the butterfly is on the far left again.
- The dot means the same object on the far left side (in this example a butterfly for example) will lie across the long side of the pattern and repeat when the second paper is matched with the first paper.
Step 5. Find the top side of your paper
Study your pattern and decide what you want the top of your wall to be. This side will be glued directly to the ceiling. Some patterns will have natural pattern cuts and between these cuts can be a good upside.
- Try to avoid putting a pattern that looks flashy on the top side. Ceiling lines are often more visible and fall off if you have a striking pattern on that side.
- Try to select the top side about 2.5 cm above the other significant pattern. This will make the ceiling visible without giving any visual effect to this object.
- If you can, choose an upper side that has a small pattern on the left and right edges of the paper so it's easy to see. This will make measuring and cutting easier.
- The dot pattern will have two top edges. You can choose between “Upside A” and “Upside B” as you work through the room. Mostly, if with dots, you will choose “Upside A” and take “Upside B”.
Step 6. Cut your wallpaper
On the table, cut the wallpaper about 2.5 cm above your desired top to make sure you don't cut any crooked, wavy lines that damage the top side of your top pattern. This will give you an edge when gluing and can be cut later. Take a razor blade and cut the roll about 2.5-5 cm from the total length of the size. This excess will be deducted.
- you an easier way to deal with the excess at the bottom. When in doubt, add a little more at the bottom than at the top.
- Use a ruler to help your cut be smoother and more precise, and to avoid cutting on the sides.
Method 3 of 5: Installing Your Wallpaper
Step 1. Using a roller to paint the walls, apply the adhesive to the back of the wallpaper
Don't let it get too wet. It takes several times to apply the adhesive to find out the right amount. Make sure you glue all the way to the end so that the wallpaper is exposed to the adhesive. Apply the adhesive at the top center of the paper first.
Step 2. Finish pasting the adhesive
Take the top and fold it about 45 cm so that you glue each part about 45 cm. Measure the edge of the paper so you don't have to hit the edge. Do not fold the paper at the end of the fold. Brush and press the ends gently to attach both sides. Now, lift and drag the rest of the pieces onto the table – the folded parts will hang over the ends – and glue the rest of the sheet together.
Pick up the wallpaper and hang it in your hand. If the adhesive drips, you have applied too much glue or the glue is too thin. If it's just a few drips it's fine, but not too much
Step 3. Arrange the paper
Most wallpapers will expand due to the moisture of the adhesive; 20 and inch wallpaper will expand and become 20 and inch wallpaper. If you try to stick like this, you will find vertical bubbles that appear and don't spread evenly. Let the paper rest in the folded position for about 10 minutes, to give the adhesive time to fully spread.
Step 4. Align the first row
Install the ladder, prepare a soft brush in the bag, and some paper. You can quickly identify which is the top because the strip will be shorter due to the two folds. Unfold the short fold and straighten the right side of the paper and draw a plumb line to make sure the top is on the ceiling, where you want it.
- Before you wipe this area with a soft brush, see if you can move the paper across the wall easily. If so, then you already have enough adhesive behind the paper.
- If it doesn't move, then you'll need to add a little bit of adhesive to the patch table. This smoothness is good for the paper as long as there is not too much of it.
Step 5. Glue the paper to the wall
Once you get a straight line perpendicular to the right side. Take the brush and wipe the paper in a direction to the left and up. If you want to add paper, add it while wiping, not before wiping. Make sure you don't slip or wipe the right side of the paper out of the plumb line.
- Don't force the bubbles to escape from the strip to the perpendicular side and seam with the brush.
- Place the top edge as close to the wall as possible, don't worry about excess paper and it will be cut. Cutting too early may cause a mismatch.
Step 6. Glue the bottom half of the strip
Now leave the top side about 91 cm to stick to the wall with the rest of the paper still folded. Slowly find the underside of the paper, lift the wallpaper toward the wall and let the rest of the paper fold. Gently lift it up and away from the wall so you're pulling down and not sticking it against the wall and slowly pulling it down until it's completely uninvolved. You can redo a few inches, but that's fine.
- Starting from the top right side, use your 61 cm template to make a perpendicular line on the top right side and smooth the rest of the paper from right to left.
- Don't force the paper to the corners, let gravity help you to place the paper against the wall.
Step 7. Trim off the excess
Take a 15.2 cm knife and a new razor and head back to the ceiling. Cut with a knife to the ceiling. This gives a slight crease throughout the paper. Starting from the right side of the paper, place the knife in the crease and point it down. Take a razor blade and press it into the crease – cutting the ceiling from right to left.
- If you run out of razors, move the knife to the left and cut another 15.2 cm. One more cut so that you are close to the corner.
- If you can, go ahead and cut everything to the ends. You may not be able to use the razor all the way to the end. If so, you can also peel off the corners of the wallpaper and using the cut section as a reference, cut off the excess wallpaper "on the wall" and place the edges of the wallpaper back into place.
Step 8. Trim off the excess bottom
Trimming off the excess on the board is the same as the ceiling, except that the blade will be facing directly against the wall. Remember to always cut on the baseboard side of the knife, not the wall side. If you try to make this cut on the side of the wall, your razor will be uneven and will give you an incorrect cut. Then, if you can't make it all the way to the end, pull the end off, and cut it off and put it back in place.
Step 9. Wipe off the messy adhesive
It is certain that there will be adhesive sticking to the surface of your newly installed wallpaper. Using clean water and a sponge, wipe the wallpaper from the bottom – top to bottom. Slowly, the adhesive will no longer be visible. Do not forget to clean the glue on the ceiling and base.
- Avoid using towels. This material can absorb and damage your wall paper.
- Remove the bubbles that are on the wallpaper with a sponge. The paper strip will look smooth when it's finished.
Step 10. Continue adding seams
Use the steps already mentioned to continue to the next row. Each time you add a row, take the time to straighten the pattern and match. Wallpaper will not look a lot of different stitches and patterns.
Method 4 of 5: Sticking Wallpaper Around Windows and Doors
Step 1. Hang the wallpaper over a window or door
Continue adding paper all the way to the end. Rub your hand over the wallpaper and all over the paper and place the top left side of the window or door. Once you've placed it on the right side, take a razor blade and place it on that side and cut downwards at 45 degrees toward the center of the window or door.
- Once you're close to 3 inches from the starting point, cut to the right until you've cut all the way through the paper.
- Cut the excess paper towards the side of the window. You'll come back to this side and again cut it along the frame.
Step 2. Around the window
Continue adding strips of wallpaper around the window, making sure the line is perpendicular to the vertical. On the part that goes through the window, cut down about 45 degrees and on the inside of the frame. You should eventually get to the point where the window or door has rough patches of wallpaper around it.
Step 3. Cut off the excess paper
Use straight sides and a razor to get a smooth cut around the frame. Press the wallpaper until it is completely flat and smooth with no bubbles, and use the straight side to secure the paper to the frame. Use a knife to cut straight sides and make a perfect shape around the window.
Method 5 of 5: Adding Wallpaper in Corners
Step 1. Measure first
Take a ruler or measuring tape and measure the distance from the right side to the last corner of the wall. Measure three times: on top, middle, and bottom. Record the longest measurement. If all three are equal or roughly close then your corners are perfectly perpendicular and you've done a pretty good job keeping the walls even.
- Take the longest of the three corners and add 3/8 of every inch. This will measure the length of your wallpaper.
- After all, you can also use 1/4 inch in the cutting process instead of 3/8 of an inch.
Step 2. Do your first cut
Place the paper that has previously been pasted on the wallpaper onto the cutting table facing the “top” and “bottom” sides. Place a ruler over the wallpaper. Place a ruler on only one of the folded ends on the table, and measure from the left seam carefully (if you're starting at the left corner) to a "length+3/8" distance. Take a razor blade and make about 1.3 cm cut parallel to the edge (seam) of the paper.
Step 3. Finish cutting
Repeat your 1.3cm cut on the other side of the fold using a “length+3/8” measure. Now you have small cuts on both ends. Hold the ruler so it doesn't slip as you cut. Take a new razor and make a longitudinal cut to cut the wallpaper in half. Now you have the “part to corner” and “part after corner” sides.
Step 4. Hang the “section towards the corner”
This cut must match the corners by at least 0.95 cm, and if your walls are not straight they will overlap the top, middle, and bottom edges. The key is to overlap the “top to bottom” corners, but overlapping too much can also look bad. br>
If the overlap is more than 3/8 of an inch, take a razor blade and cut vertically, cutting off the overlap that is more than 3/8 of an inch
Step 5. Measure the thickness of your “section after corner”
Take a level and draw a 36” plumb line on the new wall at this distance. Using the plumb line as a guide, hang this section and get a pattern that matches the sides of the corner. Again, it's important that this section be upright because it will be a new level for the next wallpaper to make it look nice and straight.
- Avoid overlapping if you can.
- The 3/8" overlap of the first piece will ensure wallpaper of your corners. If by chance, there's a "space" where the second piece doesn't reach the first "overlapping" piece, then lift all of the second piece back up, and tape and hang return.
Tips
- When you paste solid-colored wallpaper, the seams will have a greater chance of being seen. For example, the left end may be lighter than the right end. This becomes visible when the two lanes are glued together and eventually the lighter side hits the darker side. The solution is to “twist” each strip when you are going to paste it. This way, you will adjust the light side to the light side, and vice versa.
- Glue can also give the impression that your wallpaper isn't evenly applied. Do not apply too much glue behind the paper. These imperfections – sometimes looking like bubbles – will dry out and disappear once the adhesive has lost its moisture. If you're wiping and wiping the wallpaper to get the glue off then you're just removing the adhesive and your paper will flake off when it dries.
- Air bubbles look ugly and indicate unevenness. You have to lift the wallpaper and away from the wall and slowly to get the bubbles out. Don't wipe too hard to direct the bubbles to the side. If it can be removed with a gentle rub, even better.
- Sometimes – especially with wallpaper with a smaller pattern – you will find the paper is more flexible in the vertical direction. If this happens, adjust the wallpaper so that it fits your viewing distance. Then you will find some mismatches in the ceiling and floor but it will not bother the eyes.
