Frogs are one of the most diverse of animals, with thousands of species living in a variety of places, from deserts to underwater. Children may enjoy catching tadpoles from a nearby stream and raising them to become frogs. Other frog keepers enjoy watching these exotic animals live and thrive, sometimes for more than 20 years. Due to the incredible diversity of frogs and national or regional laws against keeping frogs, it's a good idea to research the frog species first to find the right type of frog before you buy or catch them.
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Part 1 of 3: Making a House for Tadpoles
Step 1. Find out about tadpole rearing laws in your area
Many countries and territories require a person to apply for an amphibian rearing license before being legally allowed to keep frogs and tadpoles. For some reason, some frog species will not be allowed to be kept, usually because the species is threatened with extinction. Search for information about national and territorial laws in your area online, or contact your nearest wildlife or natural resource management agency.
- Australia has very strict laws regarding the care of frogs, and each country's laws are different. You can find a summary of each country's laws here.
- If you purchased your tadpoles from a pet store, you can ask the store clerk about the laws in your area.
Step 2. Get a plastic or glass container
A short and wide container is better than a tall and narrow container, because a large water surface will produce more oxygen from the air that enters the water. You can buy plastic "pet holding tanks" at a pet store, or use plastic or synthetic cork containers. Do not use metal containers, or tap water flowing through copper pipes.
- Try to get a bigger container so the tadpoles don't get crowded. Use a children's plastic pool if you keep a large number of tadpoles.
- Even frog eggs can die if left in a small container, although the exact reason is unknown.
Step 3. Fill the container with pool water, rainwater, or dechlorinated tap water
Tadpoles need clean water, and will die if kept in tap water that has not gone through the dechlorination process and other chemicals. Ideally, use water that comes from ponds where tadpoles live naturally or rainwater. If that's not possible, process tap water with dechlorinated tablets, which you can get at pet stores, or leave the tap water container out in the sun for 1-7 days to disassemble the chlorine compounds in the water.
- Do not use rainwater if there is acid rain in your area or there is industrial work in your area.
- If the tap water contains phosphorus, you may need an additional filter to remove the phosphorus before the water is safe to use for tadpoles.
Step 4. Add sand
Some species of tadpoles dig in the sand for very small food items, and will thrive in containers with 1.25 cm of sand at the bottom of the container. You can use small aquarium gravel that is not sharp, or sand obtained from the river bank.
Sand obtained from beaches or mining areas is not recommended, as it contains dangerous levels of salt and other substances. To remove these substances, fill the container (not the tadpole rearing container) half full with the sand, then fill the container with water. Leave it for 24 hours, drain, then repeat this process with clean water for at least six times
Step 5. Add rocks and plants, including a path to get out of the water
Almost all species of tadpoles need a way to get out of the water once they have turned into frogs, because tadpoles can't stay underwater forever. Rocks that extend above the water's surface are a good choice. Aquatic plants obtained from a pond or pet store will provide more oxygen as well as a hiding place for the tadpoles, but don't let the plants cover more than 25% of the water surface, as they can prevent oxygen from the air from entering the water.
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Notes:
Place the rock near the edge of the container, as some frog species will only look for land that is at the edge of the water's surface, not in the middle.
- Do not use plants that have been treated with pesticides or other chemicals, as pesticides and other chemicals can kill the tadpoles.
Step 6. Keep the temperature constant
Just like aquarium fish, tadpoles are sensitive to changes in water temperature and can die if transferred to another container where the water temperature is much higher or much lower than the temperature of the previous container. If you buy tadpoles or frog eggs from a pet store, ask about the temperature of the water you should maintain. If you get tadpoles or frog eggs from a river or pond, use a thermometer to measure the temperature of the water. Try to get your new water temperature as close to that temperature as possible.
- If no expert can identify the frog species and provide more appropriate advice, then try to keep the water temperature between 15 - 20ºC.
- Be prepared to get the containers indoors before winter hits. Place the container in a place where the container is partially shaded if the weather is too hot.
Step 7. Consider an aquarium aerator
If the container is large and has aquatic plants in the soil, but does not cover the surface of the water, usually the container will get enough oxygen from the air, and the addition of aerators can cause the tadpoles to swell. If you keep only a few tadpoles, usually enough oxygen will be produced for the tadpoles even if the conditions of the container are not ideal. If you keep a large number of tadpoles, and your aquarium conditions do not meet the requirements listed above, then you may need to add an aquarium aerator to allow air to flow smoothly in the container.
Step 8. Get frog or tadpole eggs
While taking into account applicable local and national laws, you can collect tadpoles or frog eggs from local ponds or rivers. You also have another option, which is to buy them, but don't buy exotic or imported frogs if you plan to release them into the wild. Frogs can live up to several years and will require a fair amount of attention, so it is recommended that you keep local species for the first try.
- Use a soft net or small bucket to pick up the tadpoles, then place the tadpoles into a moving container filled with water where the tadpoles live naturally. Tadpoles can be injured if bumped or scratched, and tadpoles cannot breathe outside of water.
- On a rough count, 2.5 cm long tadpoles require 3.8 L of water. Keep in mind that most tadpoles will grow to be much larger before turning into frogs. Overcrowded containers can lead to illness and oxygen deprivation.
Step 9. Put the frog or tadpole eggs in a new container when the water temperature is the same
If the water temperature of the new container is different from the temperature of the water from which the tadpoles came from, then place the tadpole container containing the water in which the natural tadpoles live in the new container, but leave the container open above the surface so that the water from the two containers does not mix. Let the two containers come to the same temperature, then remove the tadpoles into the larger container.
Part 2 of 3: Caring for Tadpoles
Step 1. Feed the tadpoles a small amount of soft green plant leaves
Tadpoles grow and develop best if they feed on soft plant juices, which should be given in small amounts whenever the tadpoles run out of food. You can get leaves with algae growing on them at the bottom of a river or pond and give them to the tadpoles. Alternatively, rinse young spinach (never give mature spinach), dark green lettuce, or papaya leaves thoroughly, then cut them into small pieces, and freeze before feeding them to the tadpoles. Check with pet store staff or online before you feed tadpoles to other types of plants.
Fish food flakes generally don't have the same quality as whole vegetables, but you can use them if they consist mostly of spirulina or other plant-based substances instead of animal protein. Break the flaky fish food into small pieces and give it a pinch each day
Step 2. Feed the tadpoles with insects occasionally
Although sometimes tadpoles must be fed animal protein, the tadpole's digestive system cannot handle large amounts of this protein. To keep the level of protein given at a safe level and also ensure that the tadpoles can eat it, use frozen foods that are specifically for young fish, such as bloodworms or frozen water fleas. Give the food to the tadpoles in small quantities once a week. You may feed more insects once the tadpoles have become frogs, although the newly transformed frogs may not eat for a short period of time.
Fish food is available at all places that sell fish
Step 3. Clean the water regularly
Whenever the water looks blurry, smells bad, or you see tadpoles swarming on the surface, it's time for a water change. Make sure you replace it with water of the same type as the water used in the container, and treated with dechlorinated tablets if necessary.
- The cleanliness of the water will last longer if you don't overfeed it all at once. The amount of food given must be finished within a maximum of 12 hours, then immediately replaced.
- Do not use a filter to keep the container clean, unless you are sure that the filter is not strong enough to suck out the tadpoles or force the tadpoles to swim against the current. Sponge filter is safe to use.
Step 4. Give calcium
Tadpoles need calcium to grow their skeletons, and may not get enough from their daily diet. For this reason, pet stores sometimes sell cuttlefish bones, which must be rinsed thoroughly before putting them in a container, then left for good. Alternatively, you can use a liquid calcium supplement specifically designed for the aquarium, and give one drop of the supplement for every liter of water each time you change the water.
A 5 cm long cuttlefish bone should be enough for a small container
Step 5. Prepare for metamorphosis
Depending on their age and species, tadpoles can turn into frogs within a few weeks or months. When the tadpole's legs have started to grow and the tail has started to disappear, the little frog should try to get out of the water. Have a plan ready as soon as you start seeing the following changes in your tadpoles:
- Most frogs can't breathe underwater forever, so make sure they have rocks or non-metallic steps at the edge of the container to climb up and out of the water. Some species will fail to climb on their own, so you should lift them out with a soft net when half of the tail is gone.
- Install a lid for a container that has lots of air holes. Cover the lid of the container with heavy items if the container is not closed tightly to prevent the frogs from jumping out.
Step 6. Know how to release the frog
If you catch tadpoles from nearby areas, you can release them in the damp grass near the water source where you caught them. If you can't remove it right away, leave the frog in a plastic container covered in leaf litter, and a piece of bark large enough to hide. Don't fill the container with water, but provide a shallow container for the frogs to sit on, and spray the sides of the container with water once a day.
If you want to continue to care for the frog, or if you want to care for more than one day before releasing it, then move on to the next section
Part 3 of 3: Caring for Adult Frogs
Step 1. Find out about the needs of your frog species before getting one
Some frog species require extensive care, so make sure you know their needs before getting one. If you're a beginner, it's best to start with a non-toxic species that doesn't grow to adult size. Many species of frogs don't like being cared for or stay in place for too long, making them less attractive to children.
- You may be interested in keeping local species that you can legally release into the wild if you change your mind about keeping them.
- Be aware that some national or state governments require you to have an amphibian keeping license or may prohibit you from raising frogs altogether. Find out online about the laws that apply in your area.
Step 2. Find out if your frog lives on land, water, or both
Many frogs need access to both land and water to thrive, so you'll need a special tank that has two sections so that the frog can move between the two. Some other types of frogs only need a shallow container filled with water that the frog can sit on, and there are also those that live completely in water and can swim underwater even though they have grown into adults. Make sure that you are aware of the frog's needs before you prepare the rearing container.
If you get a frog from the wild, then find a biologist or someone from your nearest natural resource management agency to identify the species
Step 3. Find a pet tank made of clear plastic or glass
A glass aquarium tank or terrarium tank is the most suitable container for most frog species. Clear plastic tanks can also be used, but be aware that some frog species require ultraviolet light, which can damage the plastic in the long term. Make sure that the tank is waterproof and prevents the frogs from escaping, but also has plenty of air holes or nets for ventilation.
- Do not use metal nets, as this can injure the frog.
- For tree frogs and other climbing frogs, choose a large, tall tank with room for twigs and other climbing structures.
Step 4. Maintain the temperature and humidity of the tank
The type of frog species and the climate in your area will determine whether or not you need a tank heater and/or humidifier, so seek advice from an expert or find out more about the temperature requirements of the frog species you keep online. If you must keep the tank moist at a certain point, consider buying a hygrometer so you can measure the humidity level and spray the sides of the tank with water if the humidity is too low.
When setting up a two-part tank (air and water), perhaps the most effective way to keep the tank warm is to warm the water using an aquarium heater
Step 5. Cover the bottom of the tank with natural material
Whether in air or water tanks, frogs need a natural base on which to walk. Again, the exact way to do this depends on the species of frog being kept. An experienced pet store clerk or frog keeper who knows your kata species may suggest sand, gravel, peat, moss, or a mixture of these.
Digging frog species require a thicker base layer
Step 6. Provide ultraviolet light if needed
Some frogs need 6-8 hours of ultraviolet light every day. Find out if your species requires it, and ask the pet store clerk which type of ultraviolet light to use. There are many different types of ultraviolet, and some will overheat the tank or provide light of the wrong wavelength.
For ordinary artificial lighting, fluorescent lamps generate less heat and dry the frog's skin more slowly than incandescent lamps
Step 7. Provide clean water and replace it regularly
For frogs that live on land, provide a container to collect rainwater or other types of water that are safe for frogs that are large enough for the frog to sit on and soak its shoulders. If the frog species requires a two-part tank or a tank filled with water, then treat the tank like caring for an aquarium tank. This means using rainwater or other types of frog-safe water, installing an aquarium aerator and water filter, and replacing 30-50% of the water with clean, same-temperature water whenever the water looks cloudy or smells bad. For best results, change the water every 1-3 weeks, depending on the density of the tank.
- Tap water can be treated with dechlorinating tablets, as well as a phosphor filter if needed to ensure that the water is safe to use for frogs. Do not use tap water if your plumbing is made of copper, as trace amounts of copper can be toxic to frogs.
- If the tank is warm, as it should be for some species, then warm the new, cold water to just the right temperature using a stainless steel pan. Do not use hot tap water.
Step 8. If necessary, add plants or twigs
An appropriate number of underwater aquarium plants for the size of the tank will help clean and provide oxygen to the water, as well as provide a hiding place that frogs like. Climbing frogs need natural or artificial climbing twigs, and most frog species like hiding places such as large upturned pieces of bark.
Step 9. Choose suitable live foods
Almost all frog species eat live insects in the wild, and providing a diet with a variety of insects will usually be a good choice. Worms, crickets, moths, and insect larvae are usually good food for frogs, and most frogs are not picky even if they are not used to a certain diet. However, it is always better to find out about the needs of your frog species, and provide food that is suitable for the size of its mouth. Rat meat or meat from animals other than insects can put pressure on frog organs, unless the frog is from a large species that has adapted to digest this type of protein.
- Do not give large ants as food to the frogs, as they can kill the frogs.
- Most frogs won't recognize an immovable object as food, but you can try giving the frog a dead bug by holding the insect close to its lips with tongs.
Step 10. Coat food with calcium and vitamin supplements specifically for amphibians
Frogs need a source of calcium, vitamins, or both, because they won't get enough of these nutrients from insects alone. Amphibian-specific vitamin and calcium supplements are available in powder form to sprinkle on insects before feeding to frogs. There are many brands of supplements available, and the best one to use depends on the diet and characteristics of the frog. As a general rule, take separate, unexpired calcium and vitamin supplements, and avoid supplements high in phosphorus if your frog's main diet is crickets.
Perhaps the easiest way to do this is to put the bugs and a small amount of supplement powder in a container and shake the container so that the insects are coated with the supplement
Step 11. Determine feeding times based on frog age and climate
The exact needs for your frog will depend on the species, but you can follow some of these guidelines if you can't find specific instructions that match your frog species. Young frogs fresh out of the water may not eat at all, but they will eat voraciously as soon as possible, and make sure there is always food available for them. Adult frogs are usually fine if they are fed every three or four days, with 4-7 insects that are appropriate for the size of the frog. In colder weather, frogs need less food.
Remove any dead bugs you find floating on the surface of the water
Step 12. Know how to touch the frog
Many frogs don't like to be touched, or can even irritate your hands, or get hurt when they come into direct contact with your skin. However, if your frog is a safe-to-touch species and doesn't squirm or pee when picked up, then you can touch it with care. Find out if your pet frog species is safe to touch or not. Even if you don't need gloves, wash your hands thoroughly before and after touching the frog, and rinse twice or more to remove any soap or lotion residue.
Tips
- If the tadpoles have trouble eating the lettuce, then boil the lettuce for 10-15 minutes to make it softer before you cut and freeze it.
- Use an antifungal spray that has been diluted to 1/3 of the recommended dose if feather or powdery mildew is growing on frog eggs.
Warning
- Remove any mosquito larvae that live on the surface of the water as soon as possible if you live in an area with mosquito-borne diseases.
- Some tree species, such as oleander or pine, can drop leaves that are harmful to the tadpoles. Keeping the maintenance containers away from the trees can minimize this risk and reduce the need for container cleaning.
- If you see a snail in the tadpole rearing container, remove the snail and perform a full water change as soon as possible. Snails in some areas contain parasites that can cause the tadpoles to grow into deformed frogs.
