Taro (Colocasia) is a tropical plant that can grow up to 3 meters with large arrow-shaped leaves that are similar to elephant ears (in English this plant is called elephant ear). Plant taro early in the rainy season in the right soil conditions. Take care of the plant by watering it regularly and giving fertilizer so that the taro thrives. If the weather is cold (if you live in a country with 4 seasons), dig up the tubers and save them for replanting the following spring. If you live in the US in zone 8 or higher, you can leave the taro in the soil and wait for it to grow back the following spring.
Step
Part 1 of 3: Planting Taro
Step 1. Plant taro early in the rainy season
If you live in a country with 4 seasons, plant taro in the spring with temperatures above 10°C at night. Wait until the frost is over to prevent damage to the plant. This usually happens in April or May.
The ideal temperature during the day is at least 20°C
Tip:
To speed up the process, plant taro tubers in pots placed indoors a few weeks before the start of the rainy season. Next, move the taro to the garden when the rainy season arrives.
Step 2. Plant the taro in an area that gets indirect sunlight
Excessive sunlight can burn the leaves. Place the taro in an area of partial shade that keeps the soil moist. In this way, the plant will get 3-6 hours of sunlight in a day.
- If you don't get enough sunlight, the plant's leaves will turn yellow.
- The hotter the area, the more often you will have to water the plant to keep the soil from drying out.
Step 3. Find a place that is damp and has good drainage
Taro thrives in tropical climates that have high humidity. Plant taro in areas that tend to be damp, such as by ponds or marshy areas. The soil should also have good drainage to prevent root rot.
- Keep the soil in the garden moist and don't let it dry out.
- Using raised beds or installing a drainage system in the garden can help prevent over-watering.
- Test the soil drainage by making a 30 cm deep hole and pouring water into it. If the water doesn't go away in more than 4 hours, it means that the soil is draining poorly.
- Do not over-water the plant which will make the soil too wet.
Step 4. Test the soil fertility, and make sure the pH level is around 5.5 to 7
Neutral soil has a pH of 7. Taro likes slightly acidic organic soil. Use a soil pH tester to make sure the soil has a pH level that is suitable for plants.
- To lower the pH of the soil, you can add sulfur, gypsum, or organic compost.
- To increase the pH level of the soil, try adding a small amount of agricultural lime.
Step 5. Make planting holes for taro tubers with a distance of about 1 meter
In addition to having broad leaves, mature taro can also spread quickly through tendrils. Give enough space for plants to grow freely.
- If you don't like spreading plants, you can choose the type of taro that grows in clusters.
- If not given sufficient distance, the taro will fight each other for water and sunlight. The big plants will cover the small plants. This prevents the leaves of small plants from getting enough sunlight.
How to prevent taro from taking over the garden area
Grow Colocasia varieties. This variety forms clumps of plants in small spaces and does not spread in all directions.
Make a 15 cm deep trench around the tubers. Prevent the vines from spreading by creating a ditch between the taro and other plants in the garden.
Separate the taro if it has grown to spread in all directions. Dig up and separate some of the bulbs, then replant them elsewhere. This is useful so that the area is not too crowded.
Move plants into pots. If the plant continues to spread out of control, but you still want to plant it, transplant the taro into a pot. You can place it indoors or outdoors.
Step 6. Make a hole so that the taro tuber can be placed in the soil 3-5 centimeters deep
Taro will grow well if planted near the surface. As a general rule, the hole should be 2-4 times larger than the tuber. Make a hole using a hoe or shovel.
- The bulbs will be pushed up as the plant grows, so you'll want to leave enough room to keep the bulbs from sticking out of the soil.
- Large tubers require a deeper hole.
Step 7. Insert the tuber into the hole with the flat end down
You can have a hard time pinpointing the end of the taro tuber because there is no fixed point. The top of the tuber is the tip with concentric circles around it. This section should be at the top. Press the taro tubers into the soil firmly.
- The underside may still have some leftover root hairs from the previous season.
- If you're still unsure which part to place on the bottom, insert the bulb into the hole at an angle. The roots will grow downwards and the leaves will naturally grow upwards.
Step 8. Cover the bulbs with soil until they are not visible, then water the soil until it is wet
Bulbs should be planted 3-5 cm below the soil surface. Use your palms to press firmly against the soil, making sure that all parts of the tuber are covered with soil. Water the area around the bulbs until they are completely wet.
Taro needs a lot of water, especially when it's just planted
Step 9. Mark the place to plant the taro tubers
The shoots will emerge to the soil surface after a few weeks. Mark the place with a stake, stone, or other object so you can identify where the tubers are planted. Place the marker next to the bulb, not directly above it.
This will be useful if you want to grow flowers, shrubs, or other plants in your garden. That way, you can find out the spots that should not be planted so that the garden is not too crowded
Part 2 of 3: Caring for Plants
Step 1. Wait about 1-3 weeks to see the sprouts grow
The time it takes for taro to sprout from the soil will depend on the air and soil temperatures. Cold temperatures can slow the growth of shoots.
If the shoots have not appeared after 3 weeks have elapsed, carefully dig up the soil and check for rotting of the tubers. Cut off the rotting parts and replant the tubers
Step 2. Water the plant in the morning at the roots to keep the soil moist
Taro is a tropical plant that requires a lot of water. Water the plant as close to the soil under the leaves as possible to prevent the leaves from getting wet. Try to keep the plant dry at night to prevent disease.
- Don't let the plant dry out between waterings as this can stress it out.
- Drooping leaves indicate that the plant needs more water.
Step 3. Fertilize plants once a month using a slow release fertilizer
Taro is a voracious plant and will do well in fertile soil. Slow-release fertilizer will gradually provide nutrients to the plants so that the taro can grow steadily and consistently. This fertilizer will also work on its own without your intervention.
- Use a fertilizer that contains a lot of nitrogen. Nitrogen will help plants to produce chlorophyll, which makes leaves green and beautiful.
- Add manure or compost to the soil for additional nutrients.
Step 4. Prune wilted or browned leaves if necessary
This will encourage new leaf growth and make the garden look bright. Use garden shears to trim damaged leaves as close to the tuber as possible without cutting the tubers.
- If you have sensitive skin, wear gloves when trimming. Taro leaves contain certain compounds that can irritate hands.
- If there are lots of brown or yellow leaves, the plant is not getting enough sunlight, or not getting enough water.
Part 3 of 3: Harvesting and Storing Taro
Step 1. Cut the leaves to about 1 centimeter remaining if no new leaves are growing
If the plant does not produce leaves anymore, it means that the taro is ready to be harvested and stored. To prepare, trim the leaves as close to the bulb as possible.
- Yellowing leaves is another sign that the taro will enter a dormant period.
- The leaves can be removed or set aside to wrap the tubers for storage later.
- Be careful not to cut the tubers while you are pruning.
- The best time to trim taro leaves is in the early to mid dry season.
Step 2. Dig up the plant if the temperature is below 7°C
In a country with 4 seasons, plants will find it difficult to grow and become dormant if the temperature is below 7°C for several days, or when frost arrives. Dig up the plant carefully with a hoe or shovel.
In areas with a warm tropical climate like Indonesia, you don't need to dig up the plants. Treat taro like any other perennial and bury it under a layer of mulch at least 8 centimeters deep
Step 3. Allow the taro tubers to dry completely for 1-2 days
This drying will reduce the risk of mold and bacteria growing. Store the bulbs in a dry, room temperature place, both indoors and outdoors. Wait until the tubers are completely dry to the touch.
Keep taro out of reach of pets or children. Don't leave any leaves on the tubers as this is toxic
Step 4. Put the taro tubers in a paper bag with ventilation holes
Never use an airtight container as this will trap moisture and cause the tubers to rot. The moisture can evaporate if you use a perforated paper bag.
- Wrap tubers using taro leaves, sphagnum moss, or garden vermiculite to protect them.
- If you don't have a paper bag, you can use a mesh bag.
Step 5. Store taro tubers in a dry and cool place with a temperature of around 7-13°C
If the weather is very cold, store the tubers that have been put in a paper bag in a place with low humidity to prevent the bulbs from getting moldy. A good option is an unheated garage or basement.
Check the bulbs as often as possible. If any are rotten, you should remove them so they don't spread to other bulbs
Warning
- Taro leaves contain oxalic acid which is toxic when eaten raw. Keep children or pets away from this plant. If anyone is poisoned, immediately take him to the hospital.
- If you have sensitive skin, wear gloves when growing or handling taro plants.
