White spot disease, also known as Ich, is a parasite that tropical fish enthusiasts have to deal with, sooner or later. White spot disease is the highest cause of fish mortality compared to other diseases. The disease usually occurs in aquarium fish that are in too much contact with other fish, as well as stress caused by fish living in the aquarium, not the wild. Ich can be found in both freshwater and saltwater tropical fish, and how to treat it varies, depending on the ecosystem and other creatures that live in the aquarium.
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Part 1 of 5: Understanding How Ich Works
Step 1. Understand the difference between white spot disease in freshwater fish and saltwater fish
Ich disease affects both freshwater and saltwater fish in the same way, but the length of their life cycles and treatment methods differ. In both types of fish, the protozoan parasite will attach to the fish's body so that it can ride in the fish's life cycle. In the wild, Ich is less dangerous because a host is harder to find. When the parasite finds a host, it detaches from the fish, and the fish is able to go away and heal the wound. However, in a closed tank, the Ich parasite can easily attach to the fish, so that it can multiply and swarm over its host, eventually killing all the fish in the tank.
- In fresh water, Ich is known as ichthyophthiriasis.
- In seawater, Ich is known as cryptocaryon irritans, and is often indistinguishable from other parasites that also cause white spots. Seawater ich take longer to multiply, but the parasite only has 12 to 18 hours to find a host before dying, while freshwater ich can survive up to 48 hours without a host.
Step 2. Understand that stress is a contributing factor to Ich disease
Since Ich is a fairly common disease, most fish are starting to become resistant to the disease. However, stress can reduce the fish's immune system, and that's when Ich spreads rapidly. Stress in fish can be caused by:
- Inappropriate water temperature or poor water quality.
- Another creature that lives in the aquarium.
- New creatures introduced into the aquarium.
- Bad diet.
- Shipping or handling fish when they are moved.
- Your home environment, especially if the house tends to be noisy, doors slamming or rattling, or there is a lot of activity around the aquarium.
Step 3. Learn how to recognize the symptoms of Ich
Symptoms of Ich disease can be seen in the body of the fish, and also by monitoring the behavior of the fish. The thing that most clearly signals Ich disease is the appearance of tiny white spots that look like salt grains, and this is an obvious reason why Ich disease is called white spot disease. The common signs and symptoms of ich are:
- White spots on the body and gills of fish. The white spots may cluster to form a single white clump. Sometimes, Ich is only found on the gills of fish.
- Fish move quickly and excessively. Your fish may rub themselves against plants or rocks in the tank excessively to remove parasites from their bodies, or it could be because disease is irritating the fish.
- Shrinking fins. What this means is that fish often shrink their fins instead of leaving them wide open and free on their sides.
- Difficulty in breathing. If your fish are gasping for air at the surface or are mining near the aquarium filter, they may be starved of oxygen. Ich attached to the gills makes it difficult for fish to absorb oxygen from the water.
- Loss of appetite. If the fish refuses to eat or is regurgitating its food, this may be a sign that the fish is stressed and sick.
- Solitary fish. Animals usually hide when they feel sick, and changes in behavior are usually signs of stress or illness in the animal. The fish may be hiding behind aquarium decorations or not doing their usual zealous activities.
Step 4. Treat Ich disease when the parasite is most susceptible
Ich can only be eradicated when it is not attached to the fish, i.e. when the adult parasite detaches from the fish's skin to multiply, so that more parasites will form which will attack the fish. When the parasite attaches to the fish, it is protected from the chemical, and your treatment will not be effective. Here are some stages of the Ich life cycle:
- Trophont stage: At this stage, the Ich parasite is visible on the body of the fish. Parasites will hide under the fish's mucus and form cysts that can protect it from chemicals, so treatment will not be effective. In an aquarium with a temperature of 24 to 27 C, the trophont stage or feeding stage for parasites will last for a few days, then the cyst will mature and detach from the fish's body.
- Tomont or tomite stage: At this stage, Ich can still be treated. The parasite or tomont will float for several hours in the water until it attaches to plants or other surfaces. After the tomont attaches to something, the process of cleavage or multiplication will begin and run rapidly inside the cyst. Within a few days, the cyst will burst, and new organisms will come out and look for new hosts. Freshwater tomonts can multiply as quickly as 8 hours, while seawater tomonts may take 3 to 28 days to multiply.
- Thermont or swarmer stage: Freshwater parasites in the swarmer stage must find a host or fish within 48 hours, or the parasite will die, while seawater parasites in the swarmer stage only have 12 to 18 hours to find a host. Therefore, one of the best ways to ensure that the tank is clear of Ich disease is to leave it without living things for a week or two.
Step 5. Monitor the temperature of the aquarium
High temperatures speed up the parasite's life cycle. High temperature aquariums cause parasites to complete their life cycle in a few days, whereas in low temperature aquariums the parasite life cycle may take up to weeks.
- Never increase the temperature of the aquarium drastically. This will stress the fish, and some fish will not be able to survive the high temperatures.
- Most tropical temperatures can withstand temperatures of 30 C. Make sure that you ask a tropical fish expert or study your fish to find a safe temperature limit for your fish.
Part 2 of 5: Mild Category Ich Treatment
Step 1. Increase the water temperature to 30 C
Increase the water temperature by 1 C every hour until it reaches 30 C. Leave the tank at that temperature for 10 days or more. High temperatures speed up the Ich's life cycle and prevent the tomont from reproducing.
- Make sure in advance that the other fish in the tank can withstand the higher temperatures.
- If the fish can withstand temperatures above 30 C, increase the water temperature to 32 C for 3 to 4 days, then lower the temperature to 30 C for 10 days.
- Make sure that the aquarium has enough oxygen or aeration as the water contains less oxygen at high temperatures.
- At the same time, you can add salt or medicine to the water every day.
- Always make sure that the fish can withstand the increased temperatures. Monitor your fish's reaction to a slowly rising aquarium temperature, or read information about the maximum temperature limit for your fish.
Step 2. Increase the amount of oxygen or aeration in the tank to improve the fish's immune system and quality of life
Since Ich hinders the fish's ability to breathe and absorb oxygen, increasing aeration can help boost the fish's immune system and help prevent it from suffocating to death. There are several ways to increase the amount of oxygen in the aquarium:
- Reduce the water level, so that when the filtered water reaches the surface, more oxygen is created.
- Add more airstones to the tank, or place airstones closer to the surface of the water.
- Use the bubble disc to generate a larger bubble stream.
- Use a powerhead, which in addition to increasing the amount of oxygen, also serves to increase the movement of water in the tank.
Part 3 of 5: Intermediate Category Ich Treatment
Step 1. Use aquarium salt in a freshwater aquarium
Dissolve 1 teaspoon of aquarium salt for every 4 liters of aquarium water, and make sure that you dissolve it using aquarium water, but separately, then add the water mixture to the tank. Leave the salt in the freshwater aquarium for 10 days. Salt interferes with the Ich's compatibility with water, and also helps the fish develop natural mucus to protect it from Ich parasites. Mix the salt with hot water to kill the Ich effectively.
- Use aquarium salt made specifically for fish, not table salt that doesn't contain iodine.
- Never use other medicines with salt and heat because the salt and medicine can react with each other and bind oxygen in the tank.
- Change 25% of the aquarium water every few days, and add as much salt as the amount of water replaced. However, when the treatment is over, do a partial water change, but don't add any more salt.
Step 2. Perform a 25% daily water change
By changing some of the water every day, some of the trophont and tomite can be removed from the tank, and also increase the oxygen content of the water. Make sure that the water has gone through a chemical reduction process, so that excess chlorine will not stress the fish or aggravate fish injuries.
If water changes are stressing the fish, reduce the amount of water or the frequency of water changes
Part 4 of 5: Advanced Category Ich Treatment
Step 1. Use medication to eradicate Ich from the aquarium
Many medicinal products are available at the nearest pet store that are useful for treating Ich. Make sure that you always follow the instructions attached to the medicine package, especially for the correct dosage and to know if the medicine is safe to use for your pet breed, especially if you keep invertebrates such as snails, shrimp and shellfish.
- Make sure that you always change the water and vacuum the gravel before applying the medicine. Ich repellent will be more effective if the tank is clean and does not contain organic substances or soluble nitrates that hinder the elimination process.
- Make sure that you remove the carbon from the filter, as the carbon can neutralize or block the drug introduced into the tank.
Step 2. Use copper to treat seawater fish suffering from Ich disease
Because the tomite phase of seawater Ich lasts longer, copper is usually put in the aquarium for 14 to 25 days, and copper destroys Ich in a similar way to salt. However, if you're using salt, you'll need to put the copper in exactly the right amount, then check the copper level in the aquarium regularly using a copper ion tester.
- Make sure that you always follow the instructions on the product packaging.
- Remove the carbon from the filter as the carbon can neutralize or block the drug introduced into the aquarium.
- Copper blends with rocks, sand, or gravel based on calcium carbonate or magnesium carbonate, so make sure that you only use copper in an empty tank.
- Copper is very harmful to invertebrates, corals and plants. Separate invertebrates, corals, and plants, then treat all three using another method that is safe to use.
Step 3. Use a strong chemical to eradicate seawater Ich
The following methods are arguably another dangerous option in eradicating Ich. Some of these methods may injure the fish and must be monitored regularly so that the chemical level does not reach a point where it is dangerous and kills the fish. Make sure that you always read the labels on the packaging of the following chemical drugs, and wear protection such as gloves and goggles when using them. Here are some medications that can be used:
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malachite green:
Similar to chemotherapy in humans, malachite green impairs the ability of all cells to produce energy, which is important in metabolic processes. The chemical did not differentiate fish cells and Ich parasitic cells.
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Formalin:
Formalin kills microorganisms by reacting with cell proteins and nucleic acids, which normally alter the function and structure of cells that are often used to preserve biological samples. Formalin can damage filter systems, deplete oxygen levels, and kill weaker invertebrates or fish.
Part 5 of 5: Preventing Ich
Step 1. Never buy fish from an aquarium in which there are fish with Ich disease symptoms
Before buying fish to fill your tank, it's a good idea to see if there are any fish in the store that are showing signs of Ich disease. Even if the fish you want isn't showing signs of ich, it could be infected with the Ich parasite and may bring it into your tank.
Some fish have very good immune systems and may act as carriers of disease. With fish that carry the Ich parasite, you will be carrying the Ich parasite on creatures that already live in your tank, which may or may not have an immune system as strong as your new fish that carried the Ich parasite
Step 2. Put the new fish in a quarantine tank for 14 to 21 days
Set up a new, smaller tank so you can monitor the new fish for signs of Ich disease. If the disease is visible, treatment can be carried out more easily, but make sure that you treat it in a complete way. Don't think that a small aquarium means you can cut back on medication.
When you add new fish to a quarantine tank or other aquarium, never add water from the previous tank. This way, you can reduce the chances of the tomite moving to a new aquarium
Step 3. Use a different net for each aquarium
This way, you can prevent the spread of disease to other aquariums. As with nets, use a different sponge and cleaning tool for each tank.
If you can't afford some nets, sponges, and other cleaning tools, allow each tool to dry completely before using it on another tank. Ich cannot survive in a dry environment
Step 4. Purchase plants from an aquarium that is not inhabited by fish
Plants that live with fish in an aquarium carry more disease than plants that are allowed to grow and are sold separately. Alternatively, you can keep them in a quarantine tank for 10 days with no fish in them, then administer Ich repellent to make sure the plants don't become infected.
Tips
- Replace or remove sand, gravel, stones, and other decorations from the tank when you treat Ich. Ich tends to stick to the surface of something to replicate itself. Wash and dry these items to get rid of things that can cause Ich.
- After the salt treatment or use has finished and the Ich signs have disappeared, change the water slowly until you are sure that the medicine used is gone from the water. Prolonged exposure to chemicals can cause stress and harm the fish.
