Freshwater turtles spend their time swimming and feeding in the water, or sunbathing on land. Water turtles can make lovely and lovely pets, but they still need proper care in order to survive and thrive, especially if the turtles are newly hatched. To keep your baby freshwater turtles healthy and happy, you need to provide them with good habitat and proper food, and keep their tank clean to prevent disease.
Step
Method 1 of 4: Managing Tortoise Habitat
Step 1. Set up a large aquarium
You'll need a rectangular or square tank that's the right size for your turtle when it's growing. This means that it needs plenty of room to swim, as well as space to place rocks so it can come ashore and beard. The bigger the aquarium you use, the better. However, make sure you meet the minimum required aquarium size:
- Minimum volume of 115 liters for turtles with a body length of 10-15 centimeters.
- Minimum volume of 210 liters for turtles with a body length of 15-20 centimeters.
- Minimum volume of 300-475 liters for adult turtles with body length above 20 centimeters
- Minimum length: 3-4 times the body length of the turtle
- Minimum width: 2 times the body length of the turtle
- Minimum height: 1.5-2 times the turtle's body length, plus 20-30 centimeters for the highest area in the aquarium the turtle can reach
Step 2. Place the water heater in the aquarium
Turtles can't regulate their own body temperature, so you need to keep the water temperature right by installing a water heater. Usually, baby turtles need water with a temperature of 25-28°C. However, it's a good idea to check the recommended water temperatures to find out the best care for the type of turtle you're keeping.
- Make sure the heater has a plastic or metal coating, not glass, so the turtle cannot damage it.
- Try using two heaters to keep the water temperature constant and even if one of the machines breaks down.
- Check the water temperature regularly using a thermometer.
-
Make sure the equipment used is strong enough to warm the water stored in the aquarium:
- Use a 75-watt appliance for a 75-liter aquarium
- Use a 150 watt power tool for a 150 liter aquarium
- Use a 250 watt power tool for a 250 liter aquarium
- Use a 300 watt appliance for a 290 liter aquarium.
Step 3. Install a UVB lamp and a special lamp for sunbathing
Turtles need ultraviolet B light to synthesize vitamin D. In addition, turtles also need light to bask and warm themselves because turtles are cold-blooded animals that cannot regulate their own body temperature. Therefore, install a special lamp to provide UVB light and warmth for your pet tortoise.
- UVB lamps – These lighting products are available in the form of fluorescent lamps (compact light) and tubes (tubular light). Use a lamp with a power of 2.5-5% (eg Tropical UVB or Swamp UVB products). Do not use desert lamp products because the heat generated is too strong. Place the lamp at a distance of about 25 centimeters from the water (for a lamp with a power of 2.5%) or 45 centimeters (for a lamp with a power of 5%).
- Sun lamp – You can use an incandescent or halogen lamp as a basking lamp. There are no special provisions regarding the type of lamp that needs to be used as long as its placement is at the right distance so that the sunbathing area can be properly exposed to heat. For baby turtles, the main basking area should be around 35°C, with the surrounding areas cooler. Use a thermometer to make sure the temperature in the area is right.
- Timer – You need to turn off the lights for 12 hours to imitate the pattern of day and night switching. Therefore, it's a good idea to set up a countdown timer.
- WARNING: Never look directly at the light as it can damage the eyes. Place the lamp at a certain angle so that the light does not shine on the people sitting in the living room.
Step 4. Place the metal lid on top of the aquarium
This cover can protect the turtle from objects that may fall into the aquarium. This is very important because UVB lamps sometimes explode. If the shards fall into the water, the broken glass can injure the turtle. Make sure you use a metal cover as UVB light cannot penetrate glass or plastic.
Step 5. Provide land so your turtle can move out of the water
You can provide logs, rocks, or a floating deck. Make sure there is some kind of ramp so your tortoise can climb easily to land. In addition, make sure the land or land provided is large enough:
- The land area should cover about 25% of the surface of the aquarium.
- The ground or material used as a foothold must be 1.5 times the length of the turtle's body, and strong enough not to be easily crushed or damaged.
- Make sure there is a distance of about 25-30 centimeters above the ground area so that the tortoise cannot escape.
Step 6. Determine the proper water depth
For baby turtles, the water area is at least 2.5 centimeters deeper than the width of the turtle shell. With this depth, baby turtles can swim freely. As the body grows, you can create deeper water areas.
Step 7. Use a filter to reduce the frequency of water changes
Turtles are actually dirtier than fish because they defecate more often (both large and small). Without a water filter, you will need to change the aquarium water daily to prevent disease. However, regardless of the filter, you will still need to change some of the water every 2-5 days, and change the entire water every 10-14 days. There are several turtle aquarium filter products that you can buy, but you can also use a fish aquarium water filter as long as the product is able to regulate water with a volume 3-4 times greater than the volume of your aquarium. Otherwise, the filter will not be able to accommodate and manage the existing dirt effectively. There are several types of filters you can use:
- Internal aquarium filter – Such a filter is usually attached to the side of the aquarium via a suction cup, but is too small to serve as a primary filter for aquariums over 75 liters in volume. However, you can use it in large aquariums to help circulate the water.
- Canister filter – This filter is the best type of filter for turtle aquariums. Usually, the filter is installed under the aquarium and provides good filtration. In addition, these filters usually use a sterilizer with ultraviolet light to kill bacteria and algae. However, make sure you use a filter that can manage water with a volume 3-4 times greater than the volume of the aquarium. Visit this link to see reviews of the most used filter products.
- Hang-on-back (HOB) filter – These are designed to be placed close to water. Since the water level for a turtle tank is lower than for a fish tank, you will need a filter hole. This means that you may need to cut some of the walls of the aquarium in order for the filter to function effectively. Again, make sure you use a filter that can manage water with a volume of 3-4 times more than the volume of the aquarium.
- Under gravel (UGF) type filter – This filter reverses the flow of the water pump through the gravel stones placed at the bottom of the aquarium so that the bacteria present in the gravel can help filter the dirt. To maximize effectiveness, this filter is best used with a round, 5-centimeter gravel substrate. Unfortunately, this filter cannot filter out large food particles. This means that large dirt needs to be netted regularly. In addition, cleaning the filter is also more difficult because the filter is buried under gravel.
Step 8. Flow the air in the water using a pump or an aeration stone (air stone)
By maintaining oxygen levels in the water, you can prevent the development of anaerobic bacteria that can make your aquarium dirty and endanger the health of your turtle.
Method 2 of 4: Adding Plants to the Tortoise Habitat
Step 1. Try using artificial plants
While plants can provide additional benefits, such as removing nitrate levels in the water, most plants are purely decorative. With artificial plants, you don't have to worry if the turtles eat them (or if they die).
Step 2. Add substrate if you want to include live plants
The substrate is the material that covers the bottom of the aquarium, such as sand, gravel, or soil. You don't have to fill the bottom of the aquarium with substrate and, of course, the presence of substrate will make cleaning the aquarium difficult. Usually, a painted aquarium base will suffice. However, if you want to include rooted aquatic plants or want a more natural aquarium appearance, try using the following types of substrate:
- Fine sand – Use fine sand that has been sifted, like the sand in the children's litter box. Sand can be a suitable substrate for soft-shelled turtles who like to dig. However, many turtle owners find the use of sand to make cleaning the aquarium difficult.
- Aquarium gravel – Gravel is usually used for decoration only, and is a poor substrate for plants. Make sure you use gravel that is large enough not to be eaten by the tortoise.
- Fluorite – Fluorite is a porous clay gravel that makes a great substrate choice if you want to add rooted plants to your aquarium. When first introduced, fluorite will muddy the water. Usually, after the water has been filtered for a few days, the water will start to clear again.
Step 3. Add plants to the aquarium
Although not mandatory, some people feel that a more natural environment can reduce stress on baby turtles. In addition, aquatic plants also help keep the aquarium clean by absorbing pollutants and taking in the carbon dioxide needed by algae. Make sure you choose the right plants to suit the species of turtle you are keeping:
- Anacharis – This plant grows well in low light environments and prevents algae growth. Anacharis is suitable for mud or muska turtles. However, plant-eating freshwater turtles such as slider turtles, cooter turtles, and painted turtles can eat the damage.
- Paku Jawa (Java fern) – This plant has good resistance and can grow in low light environments, and has tough foliage. Usually, turtles don't like to eat Javanese fern leaves.
- Java Moss (Java Moss) – This moss has good resistance and can thrive in low light environments. Turtles usually do not like to eat this moss.
- Hornwort – This plant has branches with smooth leaves and can grow on floating mats. This plant also tolerates a lack of light in the habitat and grows quickly and can survive with slider turtles, cooter turtles, and painted turtles. However, it is possible that the tortoise could eat this plant.
- Red Ludwigia – This plant has a hard texture and is not usually eaten by turtles. However, this plant can be uprooted and uprooted from the substrate that supports its roots. In addition, this plant requires additional light (2 watts per 4 liters). Red Ludwigia is suitable for small turtles such as mud turtles, muska turtles, and painted turtles.
- Anubia Species – These plants have good resistance, can thrive in low light, and will not be eaten by turtles.
- Cryptocoryne Species – These plants can thrive in low light environments and have good resistance. However, this species must be planted in the substrate and can die when uprooted or uprooted. This plant is best suited for small turtles and large aquariums.
- Aponogeton ulvaceus – This plant can thrive in an inadequate and long-lasting environment, and will not be eaten by turtles. In addition, this plant can be planted with an ordinary gravel substrate.
Step 4. Create a good environment for plants in water
Plants need nutrients, light, and (usually) a place to grow roots. There are several things that can be done to maintain and encourage the development of aquatic plants:
- If you want to grow plants that require a substrate, try using clay gravel such as laterite or fluorite. Such a substrate provides nutrients for the plants, without overwhelming the aquarium.
- Provide light or choose plants that can tolerate little light. Usually, plants need light with a power of 2-3 watts per 4 liters, while aquarium lights only provide light with a power of 1 watt. You can add an artificial light source. However, do not place the aquarium next to a window so that the temperature in the tank does not rise drastically and algae growth can be prevented.
- If the introduced plants do not survive, try adding water plant fertilizer. These fertilizer products can usually be purchased at pet supply stores.
Method 3 of 4: Feeding Baby Turtles
Step 1. Feed the baby turtles every day
Baby turtles need a lot of food to develop. Give him all the food he wants and throw away any leftovers. In addition, baby turtles take a long time to finish their food. Therefore, let him eat for 30 minutes or a few hours.
Step 2. Make sure you place the food in the water
Freshwater turtles must be in the water to be able to swallow food.
Step 3. Try feeding the baby turtles in a separate tank
This way, you can keep the main tank clean of food debris. If you are feeding the main tank, you will need to collect any leftovers after the turtle has finished eating.
- For food-only aquariums, add enough water so that the turtle's entire body can be submerged in the water area.
- Use water from the main tank to keep the temperature the same and not startle the turtles.
- Allow 30 minutes to several hours for the turtle to finish eating.
- Wipe the turtle's shell dry before returning it to the main tank to remove any food debris that has stuck to its body.
Step 4. Give a variety of foods to the newly hatched baby turtles
Although turtle food products already contain all the nutrients needed, a diverse and nutritionally balanced diet can be the best choice to ensure the health of your baby turtle. Also, it may be difficult for you to encourage the newly hatched baby turtles to eat. Therefore, provide a variety of types of food until you know the type of food he wants to eat. Some types of food that are suitable for baby turtles that have just hatched, including:
- Pellets (or chipped turtle food) – You can find a variety of baby turtle foods at pet supply stores. Such a food product contains all the necessary vitamins and nutrients for a baby turtle.
- Turtle sticks – This product is suitable for both baby turtles and adult turtles.
- Live black worms, crickets and mealworms (can be good food choices because baby turtles are attracted to moving objects)
Step 5. Expand the variety of food following the development of your baby turtle
Once the baby turtles are a few months old, you can increase the variety of their diet. Visit this link to find out what type of food is right for a particular turtle species. In addition to the food for turtles and live insects mentioned above, there are several types of food that are generally appropriate for turtles, such as:
- Waxworms and small cockroaches
- Small fish or shrimp
- Boiled egg with shell
- Fruits (grapes, apples, melons, or chopped strawberries)
- Vegetables (kale), spinach, or romaine, but don't give the turtles lettuce or cabbage
Step 6. Be aware that newly hatched baby turtles may be reluctant to eat for a week or more
Usually, baby turtles will eat the yolk from the shell. You can still give him food, but don't worry too much if he doesn't want to eat what you give him.
Step 7. If the baby turtles are still reluctant to eat after a few weeks, make sure the water in the tank is warm enough
The turtle will not eat or chew its food if it feels cold. Therefore, try using a water heater to bring the water back to the right temperature for your turtle.
Step 8. Leave your turtle alone to eat
Many turtles are reluctant to eat if seen or noticed. If your tortoise is reluctant to eat, try leaving him alone with his food.
Method 4 of 4: Keeping the Aquarium Clean
Step 1. Clean the aquarium while you do your daily maintenance
This can provide a healthier environment for the baby turtles and allow you to do a more thorough cleaning over a longer period of time.
- Freshwater turtles must eat in water because their bodies do not produce saliva. Unfortunately, any leftover food can rot and disintegrate quickly, polluting the aquarium. Therefore, use a strainer to remove any leftover food after the tortoise has finished eating.
- Use an aquarium vacuum with a siphon to clean the substrate (eg rocks or gravel at the bottom of the tank) every 4-5 days. Use a suction ball to draw air into the pipe and place the end of the hose in the bucket at the bottom of the tank. Gravity will keep the water flowing from the aquarium to the bucket.
- For added efficiency, you can use the vacuum to replace some of the water. Make sure you remove enough water (see next step) and replace it with clean water.
Step 2. Clean or replace the filter media periodically
The media in the filter serves to filter out dirt and food residue, including the turtle droppings themselves. If you use a sponge as a filter medium, you will need to clean it weekly by rinsing with water. Do not use soap when cleaning it. You can also clean the filter foam or, if you're using filter floss, polyfill filling, or charcoal, you can replace it weekly. The filter contains a lot of germs so there are a few things to do:
- Remove the filter from the aquarium before cleaning it.
- Keep the filter away from food or food preparation areas.
- Wear gloves and do not clean the filter if there are cuts or scratches on the hands.
- Clean your arms and hands with soap and water after cleaning the filter.
- Remove or wash clothes that have splashed water from the filter.
Step 3. Change the aquarium water regularly
Even if you have a filter installed, you will still need to change the water regularly to prevent the buildup of small particles and nitrates. While you may need to change the water more often if your tank gets dirty quickly, there are a few guidelines you can follow:
- Small aquarium (volume 115 liters or less) – Change 20% of aquarium water every 2 days, and all water every 10-12 days.
- Medium or large aquariums (volume 115 liters or more) – Change 50% of the aquarium water every 5 days, and the entire water every 12-14 days.
- For aquariums with high quality, large capacity external filters – Change 50% of the aquarium water every 7 days, and the entire water every 17-19 days.
Step 4. Test the water to make sure you've changed it often enough
Pay close attention to the condition of the water in the aquarium to make sure the water is clean, especially in the first days of turtle rearing.
- A strong odor and discoloration of the water indicate the need for a thorough water change and cleaning of the aquarium.
- The pH level of the water (the unit for measuring acidity/alkalinity) should be in the range of 5, 5 and 7. Purchase a pH test kit from a pet supply store and test the water every 4 days for the first month of maintenance to ensure the pH level of the water is maintained.
Step 5. Clean the aquarium and use a disinfectant product when you change all the water
You can do this every 45 days as long as you add a solution or product that is germicidal and safe for tortoises (can be purchased from pet supply stores). If not, clean the tank and disinfect it more often to keep your turtle healthy. If there are plants in the water embedded in the substrate, you cannot do a thorough cleaning. In this case, you will need to take a closer look at the water quality to make sure your tortoise stays healthy.
Step 6. Gather the right equipment for cleaning and disinfection
You will need to provide these supplies from the start and do the cleaning in a place away from where food is prepared (eg the kitchen). Make sure you use a tortoise safe disinfectant (available from pet supply stores) or make your own by mixing cap of bleach with 4 liters of water. In addition, there are several other equipment that you must prepare:
- Sponge
- Scraper (eg putty knife)
- Bowl to hold soapy water and rinse water
- Paper towels
- Garbage bag
- A spray bottle or bowl containing the disinfectant solution, as well as a bowl of water for rinsing.
- Large container for soaking artificial plants, rocks, and land media.
Step 7. Clean the aquarium thoroughly
First, you need to move the turtle and place it in a separate place. You can place it in a bucket filled with water from the aquarium. After that, clean the aquarium, land area, substrate, and other equipment (eg water heater). Perform cleaning in a soaking tub or sink, and not a kitchen sink, to prevent contamination.
- Unplug and remove all electrical equipment such as water heaters, filters, lights, etc.
- Clean the surface of submerged electrical equipment with soapy water and a disinfectant spray. After that, rinse thoroughly.
- Lift ground material from the aquarium. Clean with soap and water, and soak in the disinfectant solution for 10 minutes. After that, rinse thoroughly.
- Remove the substrate from the aquarium. Clean with soapy water and soak in the disinfectant solution for 10 minutes. After that, rinse thoroughly.
- Clean the aquarium using soapy water and a sponge. Fill the aquarium with disinfectant liquid (bleach and water in a ratio of 1:9) and let sit for 10 minutes. After that, empty the tank and rinse it thoroughly.
- Put the equipment back in the aquarium. Make sure the water used is the right temperature before you return the turtle to the tank.
- Make sure you wear gloves or wash your hands thoroughly after cleaning to prevent transmission of disease or bacteria, such as salmonella.
