Having a freshwater aquarium is a great way to create a natural atmosphere in your home. Setting up a new aquarium is easier than you might think when you first see it. The range of tools and accessories on display on a pet store shelf looks intimidating, but all you really need is the basics to get started. You will see your pet fish swimming gracefully in your new aquarium as soon as possible.
Step
Part 1 of 4: Preparing the Tanks and Fields
Step 1. Choose a fish tank
The tank you choose should be large enough to hold enough water for the type and number of fish you want to have. The one inch (2.54 cm) per gallon rule that you've probably been with is a thumbs-up rule that doesn't scale an aquarium so well in smaller or larger tanks. Never keep 2 5 inch (12.7 cm) fish in a 37.9 L tank! Different types of fish require different amounts of space and produce different amounts of waste. In general, the bigger a fish, the more feces it produces and the more water it needs. Keep in mind that live plants and other decorations will also take up space.
- There are many different types of calculators that can help you decide what fish are safe to keep based on tank size, suitability and needs.
- The standard tank size that is usually used to keep many types of fish is a 208 L tank. As a beginner, you may not need an aquarium larger than this.
- You can also start with your first 75 or 94 L tank and start by keeping a few hardy fish (Molly, guppies, platys, tetras, small cory cats and no cichlids) to see if you like this hobby or not.
- Whatever your choice, don't start with a tank that's less than 38 L - or in other words an aquarium without a "view" or small reservoir to keep your betta fish. The aquarium will not be large enough for your fish to live in. In addition, maintaining good water quality in small tanks is actually more difficult.
Step 2. Get a field to place the aquarium on it
An aquarium holding 75 L or more requires a field. Purchase a plane designed according to the dimensions and shape of your tank. Don't underestimate the weight of a full fish tank! Make sure that the field you choose is recommended for the size of your aquarium or is specifically made to be very sturdy. In order to maintain the quality of the tank that will be placed on the plane, it is very important to ensure that the plane is able to withstand the load of the tank. In addition, it is not safe if the end of the tank is outside the plane.
- Furniture such as wardrobes, TV cabinets, small tables, or thin wooden chairs will not be strong enough.
- Look for complete aquarium kits at major pet stores. Complete kits offered by sites like Craiglist are often available for a good price, but be sure to check for leaks and clean very well before using them.
- If you don't buy a complete kit, then make sure that the kit you buy is the right size for your tank.
Step 3. Determine the place where you will place the aquarium and the area
Choosing the right place is important for fish health. Place the aquarium and its field in a place where the temperature is fairly consistent and the amount of light in the room is not excessive. Leave a distance of at least 13 cm between the wall and the aquarium so that there is room to place the filter. Here are some things to keep in mind in determining the location of the placement of the tank:
- Too much sun can lead to overgrowth of algae, making it difficult to maintain the tank. Interior walls away from bright light are best.
- Try not to put the tank under the vent - dust will be blown and into the tank. It will also be more difficult for you to maintain a consistent water temperature, which is important for all fish, and even vital for some types of fish.
- It is also important to consider the floor's ability to withstand the full weight of the aquarium. Ensure that the floor has adequate retaining structure. If needed, find the blueprints of your house and find the crosses of the building bones.
- Choose a location close to a power line, and always remember how far you have to haul water for weekly tank maintenance! And there should also be no cables stretched too long to reach power lines. In fact, it's a good idea to get a surge protector power strip, which is a long line of power that protects the equipment from power surges (which will be especially helpful when the power comes back on after a blackout) and connect all aquarium electrical equipment through that power line.
- Ideally, the tank is best placed on a wooden floor, not on a rug or carpet.
Part 2 of 4: Installing Filters and Adding Gravel
Step 1. Decide which filtration system to use
The most common and easiest to use is either a gravel filter or an electric filter (preferably for people who have a first-time aquarium than a gravel filter) that hangs at the back of the aquarium. Don't be left behind by technology. The Penguin and Whisper electric filter provides both mechanical and biological filtration and is easy to use and clean. Only use Top Fin if you are really good at filters (get the Whisper filter if you choose a good Top Fin starter kit).
- If you choose a gravel filter, make sure that the air pump or powerhead you buy is strong enough for the size of your tank. In this case, bigger is better. Keep in mind that if you don't vacuum the gravel regularly, it will clog the gravel filter and make it a lethal tool for fish. Keep in mind that you cannot use a gravel filter if you plan to use sand or other fine substrate.
- If you decide to use an electric filter, then choose a filter that is strong enough to circulate in a tank the size of your tank (Ideally, the filter should filter water 5 or more times per hour [gph (gallons per hour), 1 gallon = 3.78 L], depending on the capacity of your tank. For example: a 10 gallon (38 L) tank requires a filter that circulates at a rate of at least 50 gph.)
Step 2. Install the filter
How to install each filter is different. Find a way that fits the equipment you have:
- For gravel filters, insert the filter plate, and make sure that the lift pipe fits snugly. (If you have a submersible powerhead, you'll only need one; for a traditional air pump, two is the best number for most tanks under 150 L, one for each end). Do not turn on the filter until the tank is finished filling with water. Now, if you are using a gravel filter, attach the airline pump or powerhead to the appropriate lift pipe. Don't turn it on.
- If you have chosen an external power filter, then install the filter on the back of the tank in a suitable position to distribute the water evenly. Some tank covers have specially made holes to make it easier for you to position the equipment you are using. Do not turn on the filter until the tank is finished filling with water.
Step 3. Fill the bottom of the tank with gravel or sand
Having 5 to 8 cm of gravel or sand at the bottom of the tank is an essential aspect of having a healthy aquarium and helps the fish to maintain their orientation in the water. Cheap pebbles (with lots of colors to choose from) and toy sand (choose black, natural white, or brown) can be found at pet stores that sell aquarium products. Sand works very well for fish and invertebrates that like to dig holes, but keep in mind that the sand must be stirred regularly to prevent dead spots from forming which can cause damage to the tank.
- Sand is the optimal choice for digging fish and invertebrates. However, you should stir the sand regularly to prevent dead ends that could damage the filter. Beginners are advised to use gravel.
- If you want to add plants to an aquarium tank, be sure to prepare the right substrate. Some good substrates include Amazonia and Azoo.
- Rinse the substrate with clean water before placing it in the aquarium. The less dust there is in the water, the faster the water will clear once the filter is turned on. This step is especially important if you're using sand instead of gravel, although it's actually important for any type of tank setup.
- Clean the gravel thoroughly. Make sure that you don't use soap - soap is very harmful to fish and will kill fish.
- Make the substrate slightly uphill towards the back of the aquarium.
- If you have a gravel filter, then spread the rinsed gravel in an even layer over the filter surface. (Pour a small amount at a time - this is done so that the gravel can be spread out the way you want it and also because the gravel can scuff the tank walls if poured too quickly.)
- Place a plate on top of the substrate so it doesn't scatter when you add water.
Step 4. Arrange the plants and decorations of your choice
At this point, make sure that you set it up the way you like it because once the water and fish have been introduced into the tank, you need to avoid stress as much as possible––and that means keeping your hands away from the tank.
- Plants are a functional decoration. By using a mechanical filter alone you will still be very difficult to control the increase in plankton growth. However, live plants will make it easier. For some types of fish, plants can even maintain their health. However, live plants can also be eaten by some types of fish such as goldfish. In addition to plants, you can also add driftwood pieces or special decorations for freshwater aquariums. However, do not just put objects into the aquarium.
- Choose the plants you need according to the type of fish you keep. Dip the roots of the plant into the gravel, but do not immerse the stems and leaves.
- Certain plants must be tied to an object. So, prepare some fishing line (which won't hurt the plants or fish), then use it to tie the plants to decorations or clean driftwood sticks, or rocks.
Part 3 of 4: Adding Water and Heat
Step 1. Check for leaks
Fill the tank with 2 inches (5 cm) of water, then wait half an hour. If there is a leak, it is better to find it now than later after you fill the tank to the brim. If you find no leaks, then fill the tank up to 1/3 full.
Do this in a place that is safe for water to reach if the tank does leak. Have glass sealing glue within reach so you can dry the tank and start repairing it
Step 2. Fill the tank with water to the brim
When you are sure that all the decorations have been placed the way you want it, then fill the tank with water to a distance of 2.5 cm from the edge of the tank.
Step 3. Turn on the filter
Fill the filter reservoir with water, then plug in the filter cable! The water circulation should run smoothly (and quietly) for a few minutes. Plug in the powerhead/pump if you are using a gravel filter. The water should start moving vertically in the lift pipe.
Wait for an hour or two, then make sure that the water temperature is still in a safe range, there are no leaks, and the water circulation is running smoothly
Step 4. Install the heater in the tank
The heating device will be attached to the suction cup. Try to position it near or at the mouth of the filter that drains water. With this, the water will be heated evenly. Most thermostats on new heaters are now pre-set to the appropriate temperature range, between 21-25 degrees Celsius. Plug in the heater and attach the thermometer. Do not turn it on until the tank is completely filled with water.
- Fully dipped heaters are the easiest to use. Look for a heater with an adjustable thermostat, as different types of fish require different temperatures. A good rule of thumb is 3-5 watts of heat for every 3.8 L of water. Most fish like temperatures between 21-27 degrees Celsius. Basically, keep the temperature at 25.5 to 28 degrees Celsius, or 28-32 degrees Celsius for a community tank.
- Some lamps (sometimes included in starter kits) generate so much heat that the water temperature will increase drastically. When the lights are turned off, the temperature will drop drastically too. This is not good for fish. If this is the case, then visit a hardware store and get a lamp that doesn't generate too much heat.
- Remember to turn on the heater only after you add water to the tank.
- Give the heater some time to adjust the temperature of the tank before starting the cycle.
Step 5. Add dechlorinator
Tap water contains chlorine and other chemicals that will kill fish, so you'll need to add something to neutralize the water unless you're distilling the water straight away. Add the dechlorinator according to the instructions on the bottle. It's also time to add SafeStart with a starting dose. SafeStart is a catalyst that accelerates the growth of good bacteria.
Be sure to follow the instructions for use on the packaging carefully. The activated carbon layer in the aquarium filter may have to be removed while the chemical is circulating. Or if not, this material will actually be absorbed by the filter before it can detoxify the water
Step 6. Run the cycle in the tank
For instructions on running a fishless tank cycle (the most humane way to grow the good bacteria a tank needs). This cycle must be completed before You add any fish to the tank, or the fish will die. When the cycle is run, you must monitor the water parameters (pH, high pH, ammonia, nitrite, nitrate). When ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate levels peak, then drop to 0, you have completed the initial nitrogen cycle and the tank is ready to fill with fish. (To help remove ammonia and nitrite, you may need to use an Ammonia Remover. The only way to reduce nitrate levels is to replace the water by making the chemical physically bad).
Remember to keep testing the waters, especially for new tanks. You need to do a 15% water change to keep the fish tank clean
Part 4 of 4: Adding Fish
Step 1. Choose the fish
Discuss the type of freshwater tropical fish you want with the fishmonger. The fishmonger will provide tips on breeds that can and won't get along, and other tips. Look for local fish shops around your area, as local stores will usually provide the most accurate information as well as the highest quality fish. Quality pet stores usually have freshwater and saltwater fish compatibility charts.
- Even if you find two types of fish that you really like, they may not be compatible. The result you will get if you put the two types of fish together is that the fish will look tired and pale (the color of the fish will turn pale when the fish is stressed), and eventually the non-dominant fish will die. Why spend money if that's the case, right?
- Often, fish shops will label the fish species "community" (highly recommended as they can live well with other community fish), "semi-aggressive", or "aggressive". You can mix community fish in one tank, but never mix community fish with semi-aggressive fish.
- If this is your first tank, don't get fish that is only recommended for aquarium owners with medium or high experience. As with owning a dog, there are reasons why certain dogs are not recommended for beginners.
- Be aware of the size of the adult fish (not the size of the baby fish you get now) and don't get fish that you can't handle in the future. The same goes for freshwater sharks, crabs (which are always trying to escape), cichlids, and animals that bury themselves. This is not fair to the fish.
- Guppies or mollies are great fish to start with. However, it all depends on the size of your tank. If your tank size is between 19-38 L, you can get 3-4 African pygmy frogs, or a betta fish, or maybe a betta fish with a few shrimps. Do a lot of research before adding fish to the tank. Remember to stick to the 2.5 cm rule of fish for every 3.8 L of water.
Step 2. Don't buy all the fish at once
Know all the fish you want to put in the tank and buy the two smallest of them (this applies to all types of fish except flock fish, which must be bought in groups of 4 (ideally 6 or more). You can add one new group of fish every 2 weeks Add the largest fish last.
Step 3. Bring the fish home safely
The fishmonger will fill a large clear plastic bag with water, then fish, then blow it with oxygen. When you return to your car, place the bag in a place where it will not roll and nothing will fall on the top. Go straight home. Fish may only survive in the water and oxygen provided for 2 1/2 hours. For trips longer than that, packing must be done with a different procedure.
Step 4. After the pet store clerk catches your fish, take the fish home and dip the bag in the tank
Let the bag soak for 20 or 30 minutes. Then open the bag and add a little water from the tank. Leave it for another 20 or 30 minutes. Then gently remove the fish with the net and pour all the water in the bag into the sink.
The reason you shouldn't mix store water into your aquarium is because fish shop water may contain unwanted contaminants such as parasites, fungi, or freshwater snails. Fish shops often clean the water in their tanks to keep disease away. However, at home, you don't have the same tools. As such, infections and contaminants can seriously damage your aquarium's ecosystem
Step 5. Put the fish in the aquarium
Start with two or three fish for the first ten days, then add two or three more fish, then wait for another ten days, and so on. If you put too many fish in a new tank at once, the water cycle in the tank will not be sufficient, and toxins will build up quickly. Patience is key for the first six to eight weeks. Also, a big mistake people make is buying a flock of fish, but only one or two. This is nasty and causes stress to the fish. Flock means a group of at least 5 fish. You can get a lot of advice from the book "The Simple Guide to Freshwater Aquariums" by David E Boruchowitz.
Tips
- Always do research on the needs of the living things (fish, plants, invertebrates) that will be added to your tank. Make sure that the living things match the ones you already have and that you can meet their care needs. It's best to get information from a variety of sources, but don't believe what the store clerk tells you!
- Keep doing research! Try to find out the water conditions where you live. There are different types of fish that are suitable for living in "hard" or "soft" water, and fish that live with the right water conditions will live longer and healthier lives. Unless you want to treat all the water that will go into the tank (which can be expensive and/or time consuming), choosing a tank setup that suits the water around you will make your life easier!
- Over time, good bacteria that can assist in processing ammonia and nitrite will form on the surface of the tank water. Adding a lot of fish at once can weigh down the bacteria, so the filter has to work harder. A tank filled with fish will generally go through a "cycle" of 30-45 days, which means the bacteria will build up well and can "offset" the fish waste. Adding more fish will not speed up this process.
- If you can choose the type of lamp in your lighting kit, choose a fluorescent lamp - it shows fish colors better and produces less heat.
- If you are having trouble keeping your tank clean, then consider using live plants. Live plants prevent the tank from looking gloomy and make it look good. Make sure that you buy it from a pet store so it doesn't harm the fish.
- Gravel filters (under gravel filters or UGF) are becoming increasingly unpopular for several reasons; these filters don't work as well as HOB (hang on back)/power filters, they run noisy, and require more maintenance.
- Not all air pumps are created equal - they may say "quiet" or "silent" on the box, but always make sure to try them out at the store before you buy them.
- If you're using a gravel filter, consider getting a submersible powerhead instead of an air pump - the powerhead works quieter and more efficiently. Use the same guidelines as the electric filter to determine the correct size.
- Buying a cheap valve for the airline pipeline can prevent cases where you have to buy a new pump in the event of a power outage.
- If the electrical filter makes a rattling sound, try rocking the intake pipe - air is sometimes blocked and makes noise.
- Run an aquarium cycle without fish.
- If you choose a gravel filter, then the gravel should be vacuumed regularly to remove any organic matter that builds up. If this is not done thoroughly, it can lead to high levels of ammonia and nitrite, as well as death of the fish.
- Get help from a pet store clerk. Make sure you ask someone who looks like they have a lot of experience with pet fish, or ask the receptionist about a fish expert. If you're asking someone who doesn't seem to know anything, don't be afraid to ask someone else.
- 19 L of water weighs about 19 kg. This can help you determine if the area you have is safe enough to place the tank on. Any tank larger than 57 L requires a special area.
- Don't leave the light on (if you have one) all night - the fish NEED sleep. Fish need a period of dark conditions to sleep because fish do not have eyelids. And if you don't have live plants in the tank, turn on the lights only when you're home to see fish. Fish don't need 14 hours of midday sun, and additional light will only stimulate algae growth.
- When selecting fish, you can look for fish at major pet stores or look for them at "family" stores such as Brook's Farm & Feed. Look for a "family" pet store near you and decide what fish you want to buy.
Warning
- Some models of heaters are dangerous when turned on in dry conditions. Sometimes, the tool's security mechanism fails to work properly.
- Try to lift the empty tank by the edges - the edges of the tank may crack or fall off, which will lower the standard of the tank's structural rigidity. Large tanks usually require compression pads at the bottom.
- Ammonia, nitrates, and phosphates that build up in the tank indicate that you need to change the water and grow plants in the tank. Testing pH (alkalinity) is almost a mandatory step. Bring a water sample with you when you visit the pet store.
- Do not knock on the aquarium glass. Fish will feel scared/disturbed.
- The real sea shells you get on the beach can be toxic to fish - keep in mind that these are freshwater tanks.
- Do not place the tank in or near a window - this will overheat the water and stimulate algae growth. This is not a problem for a tank without fish.
- Never just put tap water into the tank and then put the fish in, as the fish will most likely die in a matter of minutes.
- Pay attention to warnings from employees about the health of live fish. Never buy fish that has cuts, blemishes, or other flaws. Many fish are at sea and are in the prognostic stage. Maybe you are not a veterinarian.
- Compare the turnover rate at stores located in malls with stores where you can actually identify the owner. As turnover rates decrease, the quality of information provided by employees increases. Pool owners usually also take care of the glass cage.
- Consider breeding cheap fish and danio fish before you buy a carnivorous fish such as a cichlid, shark or oscar.
- Resist the urge to buy lots of fish when you're just setting up your tank! New tank conditions can change drastically, which can be deadly for fish.
- For whatever reason, it is not recommended that you buy fish just because it is cute. The cute fish can become a sea terror when it grows big.
- Never clean the sides of the tank with a spray bottle, and certainly not with ammonia.
