Cage training is basically done by taking advantage of the dog's instinct that is always looking for a safe place to sleep. The idea is to make the crate a safe place for the dog, so that it feels good to him. If done correctly, crate training is beneficial for dogs and helps reduce stress levels. Also, since a dog's instinct is not to build a crate of his own, a crate is a wonderful means of providing him with comfort. The downside of kennels is that people sometimes use them incorrectly as a place to confine and punish dogs. This goes against the main principle of cage training, which is to create a strong connection between the cage and things that are fun.
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Method 1 of 6: Selecting and Preparing the Cage
Step 1. Think of the right size
The crate should have enough room to stand, sit, and stretch, but not so big that your dog can separate it into one area for his toilet and another for his bed.
- Buying two cages is the ideal decision. One size fits your puppy and one larger for your adult dog.
- You can modify a large kennel for a puppy by providing an appropriate sized room divider for a puppy.
Step 2. Choose the type of cage you want to use
There are many different types of dog kennels available at various price levels. Some are even made to resemble furniture and can be used as an extra table as well as a cage. Make sure that you study the benefits of each shape/size of a dog kennel before you choose one.
- The house-shaped dog kennel is made of hard plastic which is closed (except for the windows) on all sides except the front, which has hinged doors. This shape is good for getting on board during a flight, so it might be a good choice if you plan to travel with your pet.
- The metal cage is made of thick wire, which doesn't bite, and gives the dog a chance to see around him. However, metal kennels don't provide the "privacy" that most dogs crave, so this type of crate may not be the best choice, even if it's inexpensive.
- Fence cages, which are heavily wired all around but have no plinth or roof, are another option for young puppies, but you should watch out for older dogs who may move the fencing crate or even flip it over. Therefore, this type of cage can only be used for surveillance.
- A cage with a strong base can provide more comfort when coupled with a washable blanket.
Step 3. Determine the ideal cage location
You should place the cage in a fixed location. Perhaps this location is in an area where your family often hangs out and hangs out, but you may also want to set up a separate area for your dog to take a break from activities, especially at night.
Step 4. Provide entertainment in the cage
If your dog has a favorite toy or something he's comfortable with, put it in the crate to make the dog think the crate is a fun place. However, make sure that whatever is in the cage is strong enough that it doesn't choke, or resist bites. You don't want your dog to bite something into pieces when he's left alone, then swallow the piece until his intestines are blocked.
Step 5. Cover the iron cage
To make your dog feel more comfortable, cover the top and sides of the metal crate. A dark room, adding to the freedom from supervision, will help the dog feel more secure. Be careful though, as blankets or towels can be pulled through the sides of the crate and bitten by a bored and restless dog.
Place a wooden mat on top of the cage that is about 30.5 cm wider on the sides of the cage, and do not cover the cage with a towel or blanket that stretches all the way to the sides of the cage
Step 6. Place small snacks in the cage
Part of crate training is putting a nice little treat in it, again to get the dog to think the crate is a great location where fun things happen. You don't necessarily have to leave food or water in the cage. Healthy, strong dogs don't need water for a night's duration (but this is the longest time to leave them in the crate), except in very hot weather.
Method 2 of 6: Practice at Night
Step 1. Make sure that the cage is comfortable and quiet
Even though the kennel may be in a crowded area during the day, it should still be a safe and comfortable area of your home at night. You may be able to place it in an area that is easy to clean for possible "accidents" when your dog is pooping, for example, it's better for droppings to fall on a tiled floor than a carpeted floor.
Step 2. Use the cage at night
There are times at night when your dog's crate training isn't perfect, but you should still keep him safe at night. Play with the dog until the dog is exhausted, then put him in the crate, give him a snack to distract him, and close the door. Then leave the room. Ideally, you should only go back into the room and remove the dog from the crate if the dog is not crying.
Alternatively, use a cardboard box at night. Put your dog in it, especially puppies, in a large cardboard box near your bed for two nights, while you are busy giving crate exercises during the day. A possible failure with this method is that if the dog gets used to being at your bedside he will kick even harder when you move him from the bedside into the crate
Step 3. Make time to go to the restroom at night
The maximum time you leave a puppy is 4 hours, so set your alarm (ideally every 2-3 hours). If your alarm goes off, grab the puppy from the crate or box and take him outside for restroom time. Then put him back in the box or cage. Adult dogs can wait longer, but if the dog isn't comfortable yet, you may want to follow these guidelines even if your dog is older.
In the meantime, don't tease or talk to the dog. This will make him think that the evenings are playtime
Method 3 of 6: Introducing the Cage to Your Dog
Step 1. Don't force a dog into the crate
Never force a dog into a kennel and close the door. Likewise, never put a dog in a crate as a form of punishment. Remember, the kennel is not a prison when dogs make mistakes, but a beautiful place and dogs go there because they feel safe.
Step 2. Restrict your dog to one room first
You want the dog to "find" the crate on its own, so that the dog will have a desire to return to the crate. Confining him to the room where his cage is placed will make him want to find and explore it in his own way.
Step 3. Leave the cage door open
When introducing the crate to your dog, place the crate in the desired location and leave the door open. Ideally, put a blanket that has the smell of its mother and litter mat in the crate, then the dog has a reason to investigate the crate. At this stage, leave the crate door open, so that the dog can enter and exit freely. There comes a time to close the crate door, which is when the dog can accept the crate as his room.
Step 4. Praise the dog
When the dog investigates the crate, show enthusiasm and praise. Every time he enters the crate, stop what you are doing and give the dog attention and encouragement. This will help the dog associate the crate with positive feelings.
Step 5. Place tasty treats into the cage
You can put special treats such as chunks of cheese or small chunks of chicken (depending on individual dog's likes, dislikes, and allergies) in the crate by spreading them out. This makes the cage an interesting place worth exploring, and the treats are a reward for the effort.
Step 6. Feed the dog in the crate
Make sure that you leave the cage door open while you feed it. Again, the connection between the crate and the food makes the crate an attractive place, the dog thinks. If the dog only enters the crate occasionally, place the food bowl on the outside, where the dog is comfortable. Once your dog has gotten used to eating in the crate, you can move the bowl further and further towards the end of the crate.
Step 7. Close the cage door when the dog is happy to eat his food inside
Once the dog is used to eating in the crate and into the crate all the way to the inside at mealtime, start closing the crate door when the dog eats. When the dog is done eating, open the door. This way the dog will get used to the crate without worrying anymore.
Step 8. Start increasing the time duration for closing the cage door
As a dog gets used to the door closing while eating, start slowly increasing the time it takes to close the door. The goal is to get him used to the door closed for 10 minutes after he finishes eating.
- Do this slowly, gradually increasing the length of time the door is closed, and giving the dog plenty of time to get used to the increasing duration. For example, leave the dog in the crate for 2 minutes after eating, and do this for 2-3 days before increasing it to 5 minutes. Then, do it with a duration of 5 minutes for 2-3 days before increasing it to 7 minutes.
- If your dog starts to complain, you're adding duration too quickly. In the future, close the door for a shorter duration.
- Always remember to only let a dog out of its crate if it's not crying, otherwise your dog will learn that crying makes you get him out of the crate.
Step 9. Use the cage command
At the same time as the dog is getting used to the crate, give the dog understandable commands to enter the crate. Over time, you'll use this method to encourage her to come in when you need it.
- Choose a command such as “Cage” or “Enter” while using a hand gesture to point at the cage.
- When the dog enters the crate, say the command.
- When you tell him to eat, use the command and then place the food in the cage.
- Start saying this command when you want your dog to come into the crate, then when your dog obeys, put a small treat in the crate as a token of appreciation.
Method 4 of 6: Getting Your Dog Used to Being in His Own Cage
Step 1. Stay home
It's important that your dog doesn't associate his crate with feelings of loneliness or abandonment. Therefore, you should not use the cage for the times you leave the house, until you have built up sufficient time for it.
Step 2. Encourage your dog to enter the crate
You may need to give him a snack when he comes in. Close the cage door and sit near it for a few minutes. Reopen the crate door if the dog is not crying.
Step 3. Repeat this regularly
When your dog gets used to it, you don't need to be with him all the time, but just go and leave the room right away. Come back after a while, sit near the crate, wait a few minutes and then get the dog out. Again, don't let the dog out if it cries.
Step 4. Increase the amount of time you leave him alone in the cage
Repeat this and let the process run a few times each day, while you increase the amount of time you leave the room before returning to get it out. If the dog complains, this is a sign that you're pushing the process too quickly, and that you should shorten the time again.
- Remember, only take the dog out when it's calm, so you're rewarding him for his good behavior, rather than letting him complain to get what he wants.
- Slowly and gradually increase the amount of time until you have reached about 30 minutes for him to be in the cage.
Method 5 of 6: Leaving Your Dog Alone
Step 1. Start leaving the dog at home
When your dog is comfortable being left in the crate for 30 minutes, you can start leaving him there when you leave the house for a bit. With time, you can leave your dog for even longer. There are no specific rules for how long you can leave your dog in the crate, but here are some guidelines:
- After 9 to 10 weeks: 30-60 minutes
- After 11 to 14 weeks: 1-3 hours
- After 15 to 16 weeks: 3-4 hours
- After more than 17 weeks: 4 hours
- Be aware that with the exception of night time, you should never put your dog in the crate for more than 4 hours straight.
Step 2. Apply variety when you put your dog in the crate
Enter the dog any time for about 20-25 minutes before you leave. Put the dog in the crate in the way you normally would and give him a treat. Then, quietly leave when you're ready.
Step 3. Don't worry about your activities going or coming home
Leave the dog in the crate at least five minutes before you leave and quietly come out. When you get home, let the dog sit for a few minutes before you take him out of the crate (if the dog has calmed down).
Step 4. Get your dog out of the dog immediately
This makes your dog feel relieved. When your dog has finished pooping, you are free to praise him. Not only will this help reduce “accidents” from your dog pooping in your home, but it will also put the idea in your dog's mind that dogs will be rewarded for defecating outside.
Method 6 of 6: Using a Cage to Train Puppies
Step 1. Get started right away
Using a cage is a very effective way to practice bowel and bladder control. However, if you plan to do this crate training to make him comfortable, you should start this process as soon as you bring a puppy home. This will reduce the risk of your puppy's "accident" urinating that may occur before the puppy is fully comfortable in the crate.
Step 2. Get your puppy used to being in his crate (see previous section)
Even if you intend to train your puppy to feel comfortable alone in the crate, don't let the dog think that the crate is his home. This feeling of being too comfortable will make the puppy lazy to get out of the crate when he actually has to urinate in another designated place.
Step 3. Put the puppy in the crate when you are home
Once your puppy is very comfortable in his crate, you can put him in the crate while you are in the same room. Every 20 minutes or so, remove the puppy from the crate. Give him time to pee in the right place.
- If the puppy doesn't go to the toilet location, return the puppy to the crate, immediately rewarding the puppy in the form of praise, treats, affection, playtime, and maybe a chance to run around the house for a bit.
- If you choose to run your puppy around the house, within 20 minutes take the puppy back outside to prevent "accidents" from urinating anywhere.
Step 4. Keep a special diary about your puppy
As odd as it may sound, keeping a diary of when your pup is pooping will do you good. Just as you regularly give him a schedule for feeding, so your puppy also has a schedule for pooping. Once you know your puppy's regular schedule for bowel movements, you can start taking him outside at those times instead of every 20-30 minutes anymore. If the schedule stays like this, you can keep an eye on your puppy at home most days.
Step 5. Keep praising your puppy
Make sure to continue to give compliments every time your puppy goes to the toilet where it belongs. Eventually, your puppy will understand the need to go outside and he will start waiting for you to take him out to his toilet for that purpose.
Step 6. Reduce your puppy's time in the crate
Once your puppy understands that he has to use a certain area outside (not the inside) as his toilet, you can eventually get rid of the crate and just need to get your puppy out of the house regularly.
Step 7. Clean up the puppy's mistakes
Never punish your puppy for an "accident" urinating in the house. Clean the dirt with an anti-ammonia (anti-bacterial) spray and try to train it again. Supervise your puppy at all times, and give him plenty of opportunities to use his outdoor toilet location.
Tips
- If your dog complains in the crate, let it go (unless there is a physical problem). Take the dog out only when it's quiet. Otherwise, your dog will associate his complaint with your removing him from the crate.
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If an "accident" occurs, make sure that you use a dirt and odor remover to prevent your dog from defecating in the same location again. Keep in mind that if you don't smell anything, your dog may still be able to smell something!
Do not use ammonia-based products. To a dog's sense of smell, the smell of ammonia is the same as urine, so this product will actually encourage his enthusiasm to make that location his toilet
- Remember to take your dog outside to go to the bathroom after eating. Most dogs need to urinate some time after eating.
- Give him lots of compliments and show him your affection.
- Play some soothing music or turn on the television for your dog while in the crate during the day.
- Do not force a dog into the crate.
- When you first bring your puppy home, don't put him in the crate right away, as this will frighten him. Try playing with him or taking the puppy to the crate. Let the puppy kiss the crate, until finally there is no need to be afraid anymore.
- Try to keep the cage as comfortable as possible. Not only does this make the dog want to get into the crate and enjoy the comfort there, but it also makes it less likely to wet its "house" (because sometimes wet is uncomfortable for him).
- Do your business consistently. If you take your puppy to the same location all the time, it will really help to train him to defecate in that location.
Warning
- Make sure that there are no sharp corners or ends of the wire that could hurt your dog. Some breeds of dog with bulging eyes, such as the Pekingese, usually understand that their eyes can hurt if they are poked in the corner of the cage.
- Don't leave your dog in the crate for more than a few hours at a time (except at night).
