Bearded dragons, or beardies, are usually good companions, and their natural curiosity and love for humans make them popular pets. They are native to the Australian desert and are now widely available in pet stores and from breeders. Before getting a bearded dragon, take the time to study its environment and the nutrition it requires, as these require special attention (which is why they are not recommended as pets for children). With the right information, you can prepare for your dragon's arrival and make sure your new friend stays healthy and happy.
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Method 1 of 6: Picking a Bearded Dragon
Step 1. Research bearded dragons before buying them
Bearded dragons have certain needs that must be provided for, so having them requires more knowledge. At this point, you're deciding whether a beardie is the right pet for you, and make sure you have everything you'll need before bringing your dragon home.
Be aware that bearded dragons, while fun pets, are not ideal for children. They require attention to detail, such as the correct temperature and regular replacement of UV bulbs
Step 2. Choose a bearded dragon that is more than 15 cm long
Tone babies can be prone to illness or excessive stress. It's much easier to raise an older bearded dragon.
Step 3. Look for a standby beardie
As you approach the cage, the dragon should watch you with interest and have bright, alert eyes. You don't want a tone that can't hold its head or look lethargic.
Step 4. Observe if the dragon has any defects
It should have no wounds, burns, pus, external parasites, or blemishes.
Be aware, however, that many dragons may lose a toe or part of their tail, but this will not cause any discomfort as long as the wound appears to be healing and there are no signs of infection
Step 5. Take your new beardie to the vet Immediately after purchasing your dragon, make an appointment to see a dentist, who can check for parasites and evaluate the dragon's overall health
- It's also helpful if you can bring a stool sample on the first visit. Ask about this when you call to make an appointment.
- There is no recommended vaccination for bearded dragons.
Method 2 of 6: Providing the Right Habitat for Your Bearded Dragon
Step 1. Be aware that most beardies are housed alone
Larger beardies can be aggressive towards smaller ones, and males are usually territorial. This is made even more complicated by the fact that it is difficult to tell the gender of a bearded dragon when it is young, so you may not know whether you have a male or female beardie in the first place.
Step 2. Buy a vivarium, not a terrarium or aquarium
Unlike the terrarium or aquarium, which consists of four glass sides, the vivarium has three solid walls on three sides with a glass front. Terrariums are difficult to heat up enough, so your beardie will either freeze or your heating costs will be very high.
- If you build your own cage, remember that it must be well ventilated, easy to clean, and able to maintain high temperatures (see below).
- Cages with wooden sides should be covered with polyurethane or a similar waterproofing agent, and the joints should be puttyed for easy cleaning and disinfection. Make sure your fresh polyurethane is allowed to dry for a few days and air out your cage before placing the beardie in, otherwise it can lead to poisoning.
Step 3. Ensure that the habitat is of sufficient size
Beardies can grow to 61 cm, move quickly, and like to climb, so they need ample space in their home. For a small dragon, a 39 L tank is sufficient, however this will only last a few months, as they grow rapidly. Adult dragons require more space: a minimum of 205 to 227 liters is required. however 284 to 454 liters is better.
- If you are building a cage, make sure it is at least 122 cm long, 61 cm wide and 48 cm high.
- To save costs, you can directly buy adult habitat. Consider using adjustable partitions to add more living space as your beardie grows.
Step 4. Use a net cover over the cage
Do not use glass, plexiglass, or wood to cover your cage. This will inhibit the air circulation and also trap moisture in the cage. The mesh cover ensures adequate airflow, allows your light and heating sources to work properly, and allows moisture to escape.
Make sure the cover fits tightly
Step 5. Give the floor
The bottom of the cage should be lined with a substrate that is safe for your tone and easy to clean. It's important to choose materials that are not risky for your tone: beardies often eat mats made of tiny particles, which can lead to intestinal obstruction and death. Use newspaper, paper towels, butcher paper, or reptile rugs. This option is inexpensive, easy to clean, and does not pose a threat to your animal's health.
Make sure the bottom of the vivarium is covered with a non-hot white or brown mat. That way, if your pet digs into the bottom of his bed, his most vulnerable body part (his belly) won't touch the cold bottom of the tank
Step 6. Put in some “furniture” for the house
Create an environment where your beardie can climb, hide, and bask – all the behaviors he needs for his well-being.
- Never use anything that comes from nature. Wood sticks and other natural objects can carry parasites, no matter how you clean them. Instead, use ready-to-use sterile sticks and twigs sold in stores. Wash everything in warm water and allow it to dry before putting it in the tank.
- Add twigs for climbing and sunbathing. It should be located safely under a secondary heat source (see Section 3). Make sure the branches are as wide as your bearded dragon. Oak is a great choice, as are carpet-covered boards. Avoid wood with sticky rubber or hanging parts.
- Provide some fine stones for sunbathing and clawing.
- Give your beardie a place to hide. You can insert an empty cardboard box, cardboard pipe, or flower pot. This hiding place should fit comfortably and be placed high up in the cage. If your dragon isn't using it, try moving it to a new location or using a different object.
- Include some plants to provide shade, moisture, and a sense of security. Make sure the plants you choose are not toxic to bearded dragons (such as Dracena, “Ficus benjamina”, and hibiscus). It is very important that the plant and its soil are not treated with pesticides, vermiculite, fertilizers, or wet agents. Before placing the plant in the cage, wash the plant with a water spray and pour enough water on the soil so that it drains at the bottom: this helps remove toxic chemicals. It's also a good idea to keep your newly purchased plant in a separate section of the house for some time before placing it in a beardie cage.
Method 3 of 6: Controlling Temperature and Light
Step 1. Provide the main heat source
You will need a heat source that maintains the temperature in the cage at a level comfortable for the bearded dragon. Dragons like temperatures between 25 to 31 C during the day, and night temperatures between 21 to 26 C.
- Use a series of incandescent bulbs above the cage. Note that this light must be turned off at night, where another heat source will be required, depending on the room temperature.
- Try heating pads under the enclosure or ceramic infrared heaters as a source of night heat.
- There are reptile-specific incandescent bulbs that give off heat but are not very bright; however, it is expensive.
- For larger cages, adjust the room temperature with a thermostat or space heater.
- Always install a fire alarm in a room where lamps or other heat sources are used.
Step 2. Use a secondary heat source
Beardies like changes in temperature within their habitat, allowing them to move between hotter and colder spaces. Secondary heating provides a place where they can bask. This area should cover 25-30 percent of the enclosure's surface, with a temperature of about 35-38 C. You can use a special basking lamp, or use a 30-75 watt incandescent lamp in a ceramic base. This source should be securely attached where the animal cannot touch it.
- Never use hot stones as a heat source!
- Be aware that baby bearded dragons in a smaller enclosure will require a lower wattage, otherwise the cage will overheat.
- Temperatures above 43 C are not recommended, but within a few degrees of basking temperature is sufficient.
- One thermometer on the “hot side” and one on the “cold side” will ensure that your temperature is correct.
Step 3. Provide UVB light
Bearded dragons need ultraviolet light to produce Vitamin D, which aids calcium absorption; This deficiency can lead to metabolic bone disease. You can use either a fluorescent lamp or mercury vapor; which need to be replaced every six months, as UVB production decreases over time. They should be exposed 12-14 hours per day.
- Make sure the fluorescent lamp has at least 5 percent UVB (check the packaging for this specification).
- Look for lights that cover the length of the cage.
- Consider a reptile-only black light in the 290-320 nanometer range. (Be aware that this is not the same as plant growth lamps or psychedelic black lamps, which do not produce UVB light.) You can choose lamps that emit both white and UVB light, or UVB only.
- Ideally, the UVB light source should be 25.4-30.5 cm from wherever the bearded dragon usually spends most of its time (such as basking) to ensure adequate exposure. It should be no further than 45.7 cm away from it.
- Remember that UVB rays do not penetrate glass. Your UVB source should be above the enclosure's net cover, and the net should not be too fine.
- The sun is the best source of UVB rays. On sunny days where temperatures are within the appropriate range (see Section 3, Step 1, above), place your beardie outside in a net or secure wire cage with a locked door. Remember to provide shelter and hiding places, too.
Method 4 of 6: Feeding Your Bearded Dragon
Step 1. Provide appropriate sized food
One of the most important things to remember when feeding your beardie is that any food he eats should be no bigger than the space between his eyes. If the food is larger than that, it can result in choking, impaction, and paralysis of the hind legs.
Step 2. Give the little bearded dragon a diet consisting mainly of small insects
Beardies are omnivores, which means that they eat animals as well as plants. However, hatchlings and juveniles have special dietary needs. Feed as many insects as your beardie wants to eat within 5-10 minutes. When your beardie stops eating, stop feeding it. A small bearded dragon will eat about 20-60 pinhead crickets a day.
- Give the hatchlings a diet consisting of small insects. If you keep a very small bearded dragon, you will need to give it very small prey, such as pinhead crickets and small worms.
- Feed juvenile dragons (2-4 months) a mixture of 80 percent small bugs and 20 percent green beans (see below for suggestions).
- Little dragons need to be fed 2 to 3 times a day.
Step 3. Feed your adult dragon lots of greenery
The diet of an adult dragon is about 60-65 percent plants and 30-45 percent prey. Calcium-rich green leaves and other vegetables should be added to the diet.
- Feed him a “salad” consisting of mustard greens, dandelion leaves and flowers, escarole, endive, grape leaves, mustard leaves, radish leaves, and/or watercress.
- You can add the following to your salad to balance it out: acorn squash, red and green peppers, butternut squash, green beans, lentils, peas, yellow and other winter squash, snow peas, sweet potatoes, and turnips. Cook or microwave the pumpkin before feeding to make it soft.
- Give small amounts of the following vegetables as snacks: cabbage, chard, and cabbage (which are rich in calcium oxalate and can cause metabolic bone disease); carrots (rich in Vitamin A, which in high levels can be toxic); spinach, broccoli, and parsley (rich in goitrogens, which lower thyroid function); and cucumber corn, radish, bean sprouts, and zucchini (low in nutrients).
- Spraying vegetables with water can make them last longer and keep your bearded dragon hydrated.
- Slice vegetables and mix them in salads to get your beardie to eat a variety of foods, not just pick his favorite.
Step 4. Feed certain fruits and plants as a snack once in a while
You can also give your bearded dragon a few bites of the following: apples, apricots, bananas, berries, cantaloupe, figs, grapes, manga, oranges, papaya, pears, plums, tomatoes, “Ficus benjamina”, geraniums, hibiscus flowers and leaves, pansies, petunias, pothos, roses, rose petals and leaves, snail vine, and violets.
Step 5. Give prey to near-adult and adult dragons once a day, along with green vegetables
You can try feeding crickets, worms, mice, and cockroaches.
- "Fatten" the prey by feeding it a nutrient-rich diet a day or two before serving it to your beardie. For example, you can give them crushed legumes, cornmeal, carrots, sweet potatoes, collard greens, mustard leaves, broccoli, spinach, apples, oranges, cereals, and oats.
- The rest of the uneaten prey should be removed from your dragon's cage.
- It is advisable to purchase prey, as wild caught prey (for example, something you catch in your yard) may have been exposed to toxic chemicals or have parasites that could spread to your dragon.
- Fireflies are poisonous to your dragon.
- Silkworms are good food only if you have a sick or pregnant dragon.
Step 6. Sprinkle a phosphate-free calcium supplement on plants and insects
Purchase calcium supplements in powder form (without added phosphates) and sprinkle them on salads and prey before serving. Do this once a day for teens (under two years) and once or twice a week for adults.
- You can also give vitamin D supplements.
- Read product directions and/or ask your veterinarian about the amount of supplement to give, as excessive doses can be toxic.
Step 7. Don't be too surprised if your bearded dragon doesn't eat
When it's time to molt, the bearded dragon probably won't eat. However, if he has not eaten for more than three livers, contact your veterinarian for an appointment.
Step 8. Provide fresh water every day
Give water in a shallow bowl. Wiggling your finger in the water may also attract his attention. Bearded dragons like things that move, so making small waves in the water might spark their curiosity. However, many pitchers don't drink from a bowl of water, so you may have to drip some water slowly on your tone spout using a dropper.
- Beardies often defecate in water bowls, so change the water once a day (or immediately if you find dirt). For the same reason, you should disinfect the bowl once a week with a 1:10 bleach:water solution to prevent bacteria build-up.
- If your beardie isn't interested in drinking, spray a little water: it will lick the droplets off its skin.
Method 5 of 6: Maintaining Cleanliness
Step 1. Give it a bath
Bathing your dragon once a week will help it stay hydrated and also aid in molting.
- Bath water should be warm to your wrist and not hot, like bath water for small children.
- Make the water only as deep as your dragon's chest, or up to the middle of its front hand. Fill the tub until the water reaches the second finger bone on your index finger for adults and the first finger bone for teenagers.
- Never leave your bearded dragon unsupervised in the bath – accidents only take a second to happen,
- It's a good idea to disinfect your tub after bathing, as dragons will sometimes defecate in the water. Use a 1:10 solution of bleach and water.
Step 2. Keep the environment clean
You will need to clean the cage, as well as the food and water bowls, once a week.
- Mix a 1:10 bleach solution and water in a spray bottle.
- Get your beardie out of the cage. Have someone hold it, or place it in a safe cage.
- Use hot soapy water and a clean cloth to remove dirt.
- Then, spray the bleach solution over the entire surface you're cleaning until it's wet and let it sit for 15 minutes. After 15 minutes, scrub the surface with a cloth or paper towel, making sure any food residue or dirt is removed.
- Rinse all surfaces repeatedly with water until there is no more bleach smell. If you still inhale the bleach, rinse again.
Step 3. Keep yourself clean
Hand washing is very important in keeping reptiles. Washing your hands before and after handling your dragon will keep you and your new pet healthy. If you wash your hands before handling, you reduce the risk of spreading something to your dragon. Washing your hands after handling greatly reduces your risk of catching “Salmonella”. The risk of getting this is very slim, but washing your hands will reduce it even further. The chances of you getting "Salmonella" from the food you eat are greater than the chances of getting it from your dragon.
Since bearded dragons may carry Salmonella, use separate sponges to clean food and drink containers, supervise children when playing with dragons, and do not allow dragons to walk around in the kitchen. It is also not recommended that you kiss the dragon, no matter how much you love the dragon
Method 6 of 6: Handling Your Bearded Dragon
Step 1. Treat your beardie at least once a day
Bearded dragons are usually curious and gentle creatures and like the company of humans. Handling them regularly helps them get used to humans and minimizes stress in events such as cage cleaning and vet visits.
Lift your beardie by placing your hands under his belly and gently lifting him up. Let the dragon lie in the palm of your hand, then slowly wrap your arms around its belly
Step 2. Consider wearing gloves and long sleeves
Bearded dragons have very rough skin, so want to maybe protect you from minor scratches.
Step 3. Trim your beardie's toes every few weeks
Your dragon's hooves will be sharp as needles, so be sure to take care of them.
- Wrap your beardie in a towel, leaving one leg exposed.
- Have the assistant hold the beardie.
- Use a human nail clipper to trim the tips of the nails. Cut only a little, because the lizard has veins running through its fingers.
- If you cut the vein, stop the bleeding by patting a small amount of cornstarch on the nail with a cotton swab.
- Alternatively, you can file your dragon's hooves, or have your vet trimmed them for a fee.
Step 4. Learn to read your beardie body language
You'll better understand your beardie by recognizing certain cues he makes.
- Puffing out the beard: When the lizard wants to show dominance, or feels surprised or threatened – this happens during mating season – it puffs out its throat.
- Mouth open: Much like a raised beard, this gesture is meant to make the dragon look threatening, such as showing dominance or scaring off a potential aggressor.
- Head nod: Males show dominance with this gesture.
- Swinging arms: Sometimes the dragon lifts one front leg and swings it slowly, which is a sign of submission.
- Tail raised: This is usually seen in the breeding season. It can also be a sign of being alert and active. Juveniles usually lift their tail when hunting prey.
Step 5. Take your bearded dragon to the vet once a year
After your first vet visit, it's very important to bring your bearded dragon back for an annual checkup. This helps detect possible problems early, and keeps your friends as healthy as possible.
