Is there anyone who doesn't like dolls? Playing with dolls is a lot of fun, and dolls come in a million different styles. If you want to have a doll with a personal touch, why don't you make your own out of clay? (Note: in addition to clay, clay also refers to a malleable clay dough made from other materials, such as polymers, cake flour, paper pulp, etc.) Making your own dolls provides a great opportunity to be creative and create something perfect. for yourself. Get started with Step 1 below!
Step
Step 1. Find a model
You will need to draw it or take a picture of the look of the doll you want to make a clone of. Clay dolls are best the size of a Barbie doll or slightly smaller. You can draw the general shape of the doll or print the image of the doll you want. As a beginner, do not choose a model that is too complicated.
Step 2. Make the doll's skeleton
Take a pipe cleaner and cut and remove all the hair. Then, cut the wire one centimeter longer than each part of the doll's body. You will need a few pieces of wire for your upper and lower arms, upper and lower legs, feet, hands, head, chest and hips/groin. The last three pieces of wire need to be formed in a circle with the straight sections pointing downwards, at the location where the connection needs to be made.
On the head, if you want to get a good neck size, you'll need a piece of straight wire that's long enough. The wire should be at least about 2 centimeters long
Step 3. Line the doll's skeleton
You don't want to make the doll too heavy or waste clay. So, base the doll's skeleton with relatively inexpensive materials. Some of the most common materials used are glue mixed paper pulp, aluminum foil (aluminum foil), and ribbon. Glue the material by wrapping it around the wire frame, forming the doll's "muscles." Make sure you leave some of the wire exposed, as that part will be used as a connection. When you're done, your doll's skeleton should look small like a snowman in detail.
Step 4. Add clay. Roughly cover all parts of the filler pad with clay. When you first start, you only have to worry about the main shape. Finer details can be made later. If you're using air-dry clay, only make one part of the doll's body at a time, as you don't want to lose the softness of the clay.
If you want better results, learn how all muscle groups look and function. This way you will make the doll look more realistic. For example, real arms don't look like pipes; the arm is curved because actually under the skin there are very many muscles of different shapes that are covered
Step 5. Sculpt the details
Start adding more clay and sculpt other parts to create details, such as the eyes, nose, mouth, fingers, etc. You can use all kinds of household tools to sculpt clay, such as toothpicks, utility knives, empty ballpoint pens, and various other objects.
- In general, parts that have holes (such as mouths) should be chiseled to create a rough shape. The protruding parts (such as the nose) should be roughly shaped as separate parts and then glued together. Use your fingers or a suitable tool to smooth the clay and in some way make the addition or subtraction of the transition look natural.
- Any general changes to the anatomy of the body (such as the cheekbones) may be made by replacing the existing material. However, such changes may also require new materials to be used later. Make the transition as smooth as you can.
- If you're using Sculpey-branded clay -a type of polymer clay -you can use liquid Sculpey clay to smooth transitions and create details, but be aware that you will notice changes in the treatment and coloring process.
Step 6. Do the clay treatment. Treat the clay as directed by the manufacturer. The clay may need to be burned, dried in the open air (aired), or other treatment methods.
- For aerated drying, it often takes 2 hours or more for the clay to fully cure.
- A principle based on experience with baking clay in the oven is to burn the clay longer at a lower temperature than recommended by the manufacturer. This method will reduce the possibility of burning (scorched).
- Some types of clay require a kiln/drying place-for example, an oven-which is standard for traditional clays. If you don't have one, you may be able to rent a commercial kiln based on the length of time it burns. However, you must take this into account when choosing the type of clay.
Step 7. Paint the details of the doll
Using enamel or nail polish (for polymer clay) or acrylic paint (if using another type of clay), you can paint details such as the eyes and mouth, for a more vibrant look. Let the paint dry once you're done with it before moving on to anything else.
- If you want to avoid the trouble of painting the eyes, you can trick them by using plastic doll eyes, which are attached to the head and then plastered with clay "eyelids" to make them look realistic.
- If you want, you can add a little bit of dim color using watercolor and sealant, or you can even add makeup to the doll.
- Avoid using black for details such as the mouth. The real face doesn't have black on the outline of the mouth, so your doll's mouth shouldn't be black either. Choose a softer color for the shadows, such as dark brown or pink.
Step 8. Add hair
Take a piece of long-haired sheepskin, or any fur, either artificial or real that is still attached to the "skin". Cut the skin into four different shapes which are a repetition of the head shape. In general, these four shapes consist of a square shape for the top, a rectangle shape for the back, and a shape like the letter "C" for the two sides. You can find the pattern here. As soon as you have all four pieces, sew them into a wig that can be attached or attached to the doll's head.
Step 9. Put the doll's body parts together
Start wrapping the ends of the wire that are still visible to connect the body parts of the doll. Work the joint in such a way as to allow it to remain flexible. Cover the joint with a rubber band if the part will be exposed and you don't want to risk damage.
Step 10. Dress the doll
Once the doll is finished, you can dress her accordingly. Use ready made doll outfits or make your own. If you're going to dress-up, make sure your doll is the same size as a standard doll, before you make it. In many ways, making your own doll clothes just got easier.
Clothing that covers the joints is very necessary, because it will hide cosmetic problems-everything to do with beauty
Tips
- Polymer clay and other dry baked clays tend to be stronger, last longer, and give a smoother finish than sun-dried clay.
- Make sure the concept/model of your artwork is displayed from various angles, especially the profile and front, especially the face. The size/dimension guide will be very useful as a reference for your sculpting.
- If you don't know how to make a good, sturdy armature for your doll, you can buy ready-made armature online, from basic wire shapes to complete metal frames with joints or even fingers.
- Store your doll in a cool, dust-free place away from long-term sun exposure.
- You can use a matte spray sealant that will help add detail to the material other than the paint (MSC or Mr. Super Clear UV are the best choices). Spray this product before and after each coat, wear a respirator mask, and perform this work outdoors or in a well-ventilated area.
- If you want to save money, you can also use wool as your hair and create a glossy look to certain areas like your eyes or lips with clear nail polish. However, be careful with nail polish as these products can dissolve the material underneath, especially, but not only acrylic paints).
- Watercolor pencils and crayons work well enough to create a softer, more natural doll. Crayons can be used as blush, while watercolor (dry) pencils can be used to create fine, thin lines; two effects that can only be created with paint if you have high artistic skills (crayons and watercolor pencils will only stick to clay or doll heads if you use a matte sealant).
