One of the nicest things in life is going outside on a sunny day. Whether you're planning to sit somewhere shady or have a picnic, it's helpful to bring a sturdy table with you. Making a good table is actually relatively easy, but you will have to cut the wood into various sizes. Assemble pieces of wood with strong bolts to make a table that will last for years.
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Part 1 of 3: Buying and Cutting Wood
Step 1. Purchase a durable type of wood to make the table
Processed mahogany is a type of wood that is strong and relatively inexpensive to make a table. You can also use teak, rosewood, or acacia wood. Premium grade wood, or synthetic materials from recycled plastic can produce a very high-quality table. To make a table of average size, purchase:
- 15 wooden planks measuring 5 × 15 × 180 cm.
- 7 wooden planks measuring 5 × 10 × 75 cm
Step 2. Wear protective eyewear and a dust mask when handling wood
Making a table requires you to cut, drill, and wrestle with sawdust. Taking proper safety precautions will protect your eyes in the long run. Also, wear earplugs to protect your ears when you use the saw.
Do not wear long-sleeved clothing, jewelry, or gloves that may get caught in the saw blade
Step 3. Measure and cut the wooden planks with a size of 5 x 15 cm using a circular saw (table saw with round eyes)
Long boards will be formed into table surfaces, benches, and table legs. Use a speed square and a pencil to measure the wooden planks. Speed square is a combination of ruler and protractor. Place this tool on the board to create straight lines and angles. You can also use a miter saw to cut the board to the size you want.
- Cut 5 wooden planks 180 cm long. This is to be used as a tabletop.
- For the table legs, cut 4 wooden planks about 90 cm long. Cut each end of the board at a 25-degree angle, with the opposite slope of the board.
- Cut 2 more wooden planks to support the bench with a length of 1.5 meters.
- Make a bench by cutting 4 wooden planks 180 cm long.
Step 4. Cut a 5 cm × 30 cm board to the appropriate length
Cut with a circular saw or miter saw if you know how to use it. The short boards will form the reinforcement so that the table becomes stable. Measure and cut the board as needed.
- Make 3 battens 80 cm long. The batten is a reinforcing board for the tabletop. Cut both ends of the batten at a 45-degree angle, at the opposite slope from the center of the board.
- Cut 2 boards about 70 cm long as table reinforcement.
- Make a pair of cleats by cutting the last 2 boards 28 cm long. Cleats are bench supports.
Part 2 of 3: Assembling the Table Frame
Step 1. Place the 5 boards used as the tabletop with the good side down
The side of the board facing down will serve as a table surface. You can place the plank on a flat surface, such as a cement floor or on a small long table (sawhorse) if you have one. Position the board until the ends are parallel. Leave a gap of about 5 mm between each board.
- For proper spacing between the planks, tuck a 5mm piece of wood in the middle, then hold all the planks together.
- If you're placing it on a small long table, clamp the wooden planks so they don't slide around as you work.
Step 2. Glue the lath to the table board using glue
Measure about 40 cm from the end of the table. Place the two trimmed battens at each end you measured, then place the third batten in the center of the table. Position the battens across the width of the table. Next, apply waterproof polyurethane glue under each of the battens to keep them from shifting.
- The lath will be about 18 cm from the edge of the table.
- You may have to use a caulking gun to apply the glue. Place the glue tube on the caulking gun and cut off the end of the tube. Press the trigger to release the glue. Move the glue slowly across the width or short side of the table to spread the glue smoothly and evenly.
Step 3. Make holes in the battens first before you screw them in
Use a 40 mm drill bit at the end of each batten. Make a hole in the center of each end. Make a hole diagonally down at an angle of about 45 degrees through the board for the tabletop. Next, put a 10 cm screw in each hole so that the battens stick tightly.
- To prevent the wood from cracking, drill holes first before you screw in the screws.
- Use galvanized screws for this table. Besides being stronger than nails, these screws are also waterproof.
Step 4. Glue the table legs to the outer battens and clamp them there
Place table legs on the inner side of the battens, 2 legs on each side. Make sure the feet are flush with the table top. The legs will point out of the batten diagonally, forming the letter A. The legs of the table should be wide for a stable position.
Apply polyurethane glue to the table legs so that the wood adheres to the table top
Step 5. Secure the legs to the batten using a carriage bolt measuring 8 cm
Make 2 2.5 cm holes to place the bolts about 1.5 cm deep. After that, make a 1 cm wide hole in the center of the first hole. Finish by screwing the bolts there.
- Position the holes along the edge where each leg and the batten meet. Make the first hole near the bottom edge of the batten, closer to the center of the countertop. Make a second hole along the top edge and near the outer edge of the batten.
- Leave about 1.5 cm between the screws and the edge of the wood.
- For added strength, attach nuts and washers to each end of the bolt.
Step 6. Measure approximately 33 cm towards the top of the table leg to place the support
Measure from the bottom of the foot and mark with a pencil. Next, place the 2 support boards on the table legs and clamp them firmly there. This support runs along the length of the leg, which keeps it from shifting.
Make sure the support extends beyond the leg. This support will also hold the table legs, which will not be available if they are short
Step 7. Attach the bench support with an 8 cm carriage bolt
Attach the bench supports in the same way as when you attached the table legs. Make 2 holes by drilling the table leg through the support. Position 1 hole along the bottom edge of the stand and the center edge of the table leg. Make a second hole opposite the first hole.
- Don't forget, first make a hole of 2.5 cm, then make a second hole with a smaller size in the middle. By punching holes first, you can join 2 thin boards together without breaking them.
- Add additional strength by installing nuts and washers at each end of the bolt.
Step 8. Place the reinforcing wood on the bench supports and the center battens
Make sure the reinforcing wood is firmly in place before you screw it in. Position this reinforcing wood so that it is flush with the battens and the top edge of the support. When everything is firmly attached, use a 40 mm drill bit to make the guide holes. Finish the stand by installing 8 cm screws.
- Make an outer hole by drilling the support through the reinforcing wood. Make a deep hole by drilling the reinforcing wood through the tabletop board.
- To make the table legs more sturdy, place 2 screws on each of the reinforcing bars.
- You may have to measure and cut the reinforcing wood to get it to the right size. Use a speed square, pencil, and circular or mitter saw for this purpose.
Part 3 of 3: Finishing the Bench and Its Features
Step 1. Turn the table over so that it is standing on its feet
Your table is almost done. Now it's time to check its stability. Push all components to check for table rigidity. If you are satisfied, now it is time to make the chair.
If there are parts of the table that sway, it means the table is not sturdy enough. Make sure the wood planks are flat and screwed in firmly
Step 2. Align the bench board on a flat surface
Place the board on the floor or a long small table. Make sure to place the good side down as it will form the top of the chair. Keep the ends of the boards flush with each other and leave a gap of about 0.5 cm from the other boards by tucking in wood or nails.
Use 2 planks to make one bench. You will make 2 benches
Step 3. Install the cleats (reinforcement board) on each bench
Apply polyurethane glue along the width of the bench. Next, press the reinforcing board in the middle. Drill 2 40 mm wide guide holes into each reinforcement board until they penetrate the bench board. Insert a 6 cm screw into the hole.
- Place the holes about 1.5 cm from the edge of each cleat.
- To make the chair more stable, make 4 more cleats. Place this board as close to the end of the bench as possible.
Step 4. Attach the bench board to the table support board by screwing it in
Place the bench on top of the backing board with the bench reinforcement board on the bottom. Find the point where the board meets the support. Along the center of each board, make a hole through the table support board. Install more 8 cm screws to secure the bench.
You must make two holes in each board so that there will be 4 holes in each bench in total
Step 5. Cut the corners from the table surface by 45 degrees
Use a saber saw or router saw to round the edges of the table. Remove about 5 cm of wood in each corner. Do this carefully so that all sides of the table look even.
Although only optional, this corner cutting is highly recommended so as not to hurt people from hitting a sharp corner
Step 6. Scrub the table using sandpaper with a grit (roughness level) of 220
Gently rub the sandpaper along the wood grain of the table. This will remove any debris and rough edges. After sanding, feel the table with your hands. Make sure the texture is smooth to the touch.
Don't press the sandpaper too hard. If the sandpaper scratches the table, use light pressure
Step 7. Make the wood waterproof, if desired
Use a polyurethane or silicone sealer, or a wood stain (a wood finishing material that also acts as a dye). Apply the sealer or wood stain evenly on the wood using a rag, and let it dry for about 2 hours or according to the time recommended on the product packaging. Apply the product 1 or 2 more times to protect the picnic table from the weather.
Wood stain products make the wood turn dark. Apply the stain lightly at first, then apply several more coats of the product until you get the color you want
Tips
- Ask your local construction shop clerk for help. They are usually willing to cut the wood you buy to the size you want.
- Bolts and screws are much stronger than nails. Do not use nails to make the table.
- Use wood that is resistant to weather and decay, or synthetic materials to make the table last longer.
- While all picnic tables are basically the same, they may be slightly different in design. For example, some tables may use additional screws or reinforcement.
- You can also assemble the table legs first, then work on the table top.
Warning
- Do not wear long sleeves, gloves, or jewelry when using a saw.
- Cutting and drilling wood can be dangerous. Be sure to wear protective eyewear and a dust mask to prevent injury.
