Painted ceramics are a fun and inexpensive way to refresh old decor at home or as a personal gift or piece of art. Read the steps below to learn everything you need to know about painting ceramics at home.
Step
Method 1 of 3: Painting Ceramic Bowl Dishes
Step 1. Choose paint
Depending on your plans for using the tile, there are slightly different ways of choosing paint, each of which will produce different results in terms of appearance, durability, and usability.
- Using regular paint (such as acrylic) plus a clear acrylic coating will result in a dish that is very shiny and beautiful to look at, but not safe for eating.
- Using ceramic painting markers that don't need to be burned will result in quick and easy designs on dishes that are safe for eating and drinking, but won't withstand regular and continuous use.
- Using ceramic paint that needs to be fired will produce a fairly glossy finish that is safe for eating and drinking, and generally lasts for years.
Step 2. Choose a brush or marker
Once you've decided which paint to use, find a brush that matches the pattern you want to create, or consider using a paint marker. Painting markers allow you to use paint like a marker, so they are suitable for painting words and lines, but not very flexible in application overall.
- The small, pointed brush is perfect for painting flower buds and creepers.
- The flat-tipped brush is ideal for creating geometric works such as frames and straight lines, also great for coloring large areas of painting. If you're planning to stencil your design, a small flat-tipped brush may also be a good choice.
Step 3. Purchase any other equipment you need
Purchase clear coatings for decorative plates and bowls; Look for painting insulation or insulation to paint straight lines or angles. Disposable work clothes or aprons and gloves are also useful in most cases.
Step 4. Paint the plates and bowls
On a completely clean and dry dish, apply the paint of your choice to create whatever design you want. The specifics of this step will vary based on the type of paint chosen, but basically involves painting the design with acrylic or ceramic paint that needs to be fired. Paint your design on a ceramic dish using a small brush.
- To paint flower buds or leaves, use a pointed brush. Dab a small glob of paint onto the area of the dish where the bud or leaf will be painted, then drag and lift the brush in the direction of the tip of the bud or leaf. The tip will form wherever you lift the brush from the dish.
- To paint a straight line across the plate or bowl, apply the painting tape to the sides of the area where you want to draw the line. (Use a ruler to make sure the insulation is evenly spaced.) Apply paint between the insulation lines in bold strokes with a flat-tipped brush, then gently peel off the tape to leave a neat line.
- For an unusual pattern that resembles the De Stijl art movement in the early 20th century, try covering a rectangular section with painting insulation, then filling the sections with paint in a different color. Leave a section or two unpainted for a striking geometric effect.
- Be aware that acrylic paint can be repainted after the first coat dries to make it look brighter. This step is usually not required for ceramic paints.
Step 5. Draw, or write, using a ceramic marker that doesn't need to be burned if needed
These markers are available at arts and crafts supply stores, and on the internet. These markers are relatively spotless, making them ideal for children's parties and other open group activities.
- Draw, write, or doodle properly using colored markers. The paint will dry quickly after being applied. If the marker is not visible, hold it with the tip facing down and gently shake it briefly.
- Try drawing a background or part of the image in one color, letting it dry for a while, then adding another layer using a different color to create a bright, fun image.
- Be sure to sign at the bottom of the dish so everyone knows it's your work.
Step 6. Continue to breathe
Be sure to paint in an open, well-ventilated area for safety reasons, especially when using acrylic paints. The smell of paint can be very strong and exacerbate conditions such as allergies, which you may have.
Step 7. Smooth your path to success
For dishes that look too shiny to apply paint, consider sanding them lightly with ultrafine sandpaper, such as 1800 or 2000. Don't put too much pressure on them, and try to sand them evenly.
- This method works because the sandpaper creates a micro-abrasion in the glossy finish of the dish, making it easier for the paint to stick.
- Don't let the end result look rough or jagged. Sanding it gently is more than enough.
Step 8. Gloss the acrylic paint
If you choose to paint a decorative plate with acrylic, allow it to dry completely, then apply a clear acrylic coating over it. Allow one coat to dry then add a second coat to ensure it is completely covered.
These bowls will look very shiny and beautiful, but are not safe to eat or drink. Therefore, just display it on a shelf or give it as a gift. Be sure to tell the recipient not to use it for eating or drinking
Step 9. Burn the ceramic paint
If you choose to paint the dishes with a special ceramic paint, find an unobtrusive place to dry them for at least 24 hours. Once completely dry, bake in a preheated oven according to the manufacturer's instructions.
- Always follow the manufacturer's instructions. If the manufacturer recommends burning it earlier than these instructions, do so.
-
These bowls will have a beautiful glossy finish, and are safe to eat and drink. If you choose a good quality and expensive ceramic paint that is dishwasher resistant, you can even machine wash it! The design will last for years to come.
As with other painted dishes, consider washing them by hand, although technically you can use a dishwasher. Hand washing is much gentler and ensures that your dishes last longer
Step 10. Use a ceramic paint bowl dish that doesn't need to be burned
If you choose to use a non-burning ceramic marker to decorate your dishes, it will be ready to use as soon as the paint dries. No other steps are required.
Dishes and bowls are safe for eating, but paint can scratch and peel over time with contact with cutlery, teeth, and other sharp edges. It certainly can't stand the dishwasher either
Method 2 of 3: Painting Ceramic Tiles
Step 1. Know your limits
The ceramic tiles often used in kitchens, bathrooms, and laundry rooms can certainly be painted, but the process is more complicated than painting hobby items like plates or lamp bases. In addition, in practice there are limits to what can be painted, and how long you can expect the painting to last.
- Plan ahead. When painting house tiles, you will temporarily disable any painted area of the house. Plan ahead to avoid odd bathroom and kitchen situations.
- Paint a reasonable place. Frequently walked areas and frequently damp tiles are generally not good candidates for house repainting. At best, expert opinion on this subject is contradictory. Choose to repaint the tiles in less traveled areas, or accept the fact that your work won't last as long as you'd like.
Step 2. Gather the required equipment
Painting or repainting ceramic tiles at home requires a lot of patience and preparation than the other ceramic painting methods listed here, but should work well as long as you have the necessary tools. Collect the following tools:
- Fine sandpaper, such as no. 220 or 240
- Electric grinder, preferably rotary grinder
- Thick rubber gloves, eye protection and mask
- Abrasive floor cleaners, such as Cif, Vixal, and Porstex
- Bleach to remove powdery mildew and other mildew
- High-adhesion primer (primer) designed for glossy surfaces
- Good quality acrylic or epoxy paint
- Clear urethane or epoxy top coat
- Large brush or paint roller
- Wipe and vacuum cleaner for cleaning
Step 3. Clean and sand the tiles
The first step in repainting a tile is to make sure it is ready for new paint. Make sure you wear a mask and safety glasses during this step, to avoid dust getting into your eyes or respiratory system. If you are worried, sand no. 220 will scrape too fast so it won't be even, you can use a finer sandpaper. Just remember that the higher the sandpaper number, the longer the process will take.
- Start with an abrasive tile cleaner. Scrub the area you want to repaint thoroughly, and wipe it clean and dry.
- Kill the mushrooms. Using a clean rag, make a solution with bleach and scrub the tiles a second time to kill the mildew.
- Sand the area. Apply the sandpaper to the rotary grinder and carefully sand the tile. The goal is to remove any extra shine that remains on the tile without damaging the tile.
Step 4. Paint the tiles with a primer
Like painting lamps, exposed ceramic tiles need to be coated with a primer. Apply the base paint evenly using a brush.
- Choose the right primer. Use an oil-based primer to ensure more protection against water.
- Apply two coats of paint, then finish. After the first coat has dried a bit, apply a second coat of primer on top of it. Allow it to dry completely (for a few hours), then sand it with super fine sandpaper, for example no. 1500 or 2000, to remove lumps or lumps on the coating.
Step 5. Choose paint
Once the tiles have been primed and dry, it's time to add paint. Choose the best paint possible. There are three basic options:
- Epoxy paint will be glossy, durable, and long lasting, but is also more expensive than other types of paint.
- Acrylic paints are not as durable as epoxy paints for more frequently traveled areas, but they are easier to use and less expensive.
- Latex paints give a soft, rubbery look that some people like, but are the least durable of the three types of paint.
Step 6. Apply the paint evenly using a brush
Flat-tipped and slightly wider brushes are the best choice. Start with a thin layer, let dry, then apply a second coat. You'll get a brighter, smoother finish than painting it once heavily.
- Refer to the instructions on the paint can to learn how to properly dilute the paint, if necessary.
- To paint a geometric pattern, apply blue paint tape to form a pattern before starting, then use a laser level and a ruler to evenly distribute it over the entire work area. Remove the insulation when finished (but before applying a clear coat) for sharp lines and shapes.
Step 7. Finish the tiles
Wait 2-3 days for the paint to dry completely. Once the paint has dried, it's time to add a clear cover paint. Apply two coats of cover paint. Allow enough time between coats until the first coat is dry to the touch. Choose a urethane or epoxy cover paint. Both have their respective advantages:
- Urethane cover paint is cheaper, faster, and easier to use. However, it is not as durable as epoxy in frequently traveled areas.
- Epoxy cover paints are tougher, glossy and essentially permanent, making them a better choice for areas that are frequented or wet frequently. However, it is more expensive and requires more care to use it.
Step 8. Clean up the mess you made
Discard the paper you used as a base. Vacuum up any remaining dust or detritus. Clean and store used tools. Let the cover paint dry completely. Again, the recommended time is 2-3 days.
Method 3 of 3: Painting Ceramic Lamp
Step 1. Collect paint and other tools
To repaint an old ceramic lamp (or other decorative ceramic piece of furniture), you need to take 4 basic steps: sanding, primer, painting, and covering. For ceramic lamps, spray paint is the most sensible choice. Many people recommend the Krylon brand of spray paint for its bold color and high durability, but other brands can work as well. In any case, purchase the following equipment for your project:
- Masks (surgical masks) and plastic safety glasses
- Electrical Insulation
- Extra fine sandpaper no. 1800 or similar
- Sanding block to install sandpaper
- Tissue paper and old newspapers
- Neutral multipurpose base paint, such as dark gray.
- Glossy or slightly glossy spray paint in the color of your choice
- Clear spray cover paint
Step 2. Sand the lamp
Unless you're painting a completely unfinished ceramic lamp, the first important step is to sand the surface so it can better accept the primer. To prevent dust from getting into your mouth and nose, put on a mask before sanding.
- Separate the lampshade. Separate other parts of the lamp that are removable and do not plan on painting. (If you have a bulb, remove it too.)
- Puree. Apply the sandpaper to the sanding block, and smooth the entire lamp with gentle and even pressure, and smooth strokes.
- Do not over-sand the lamp. Do not let the lamp be rough or uneven to the touch. The sanding step is done only so that the base paint can stick to a more even surface.
Step 3. Clean
When you're done, wipe the lamp with a damp tissue or mild cleaner. Do this carefully to make sure you've removed all of the sandpaper from the lamp, and any other debris.
Step 4. Apply primer to the lamp
Once the sanded lamp is clean and dry, it's time to apply the primer. Move the work outside or in an open garage or workshop, if not already done. Wear safety glasses and a clean mask. You will be working with spray paint that can enter mucous membranes from the air and cause irritation.
- Prepare the lamp. Place the lamp on a sheet of newspaper that is wider than the base of the lamp, to make cleaning easier. Use electrical insulation to seal any parts of the cable or screw holes that may be exposed to paint, including the base.
- Apply the first coat of primer. Spray uniformly and continuously throughout the lamp. After that let it dry for at least 3 or 4 minutes. There is no need to wait more than 10 minutes before proceeding to the next step.
- Apply a second coat of primer. Once the first coat is done, repeat the process to add a second coat of primer. This will ensure a smooth and even base for your spray paint, and should also cover all of the original colors and shades of any existing lamps.
Step 5. Apply the first coat of paint
Allow the primer to dry for about 30 minutes to an hour then spray the paint. You will need to apply multiple layers of paint for a good looking result.
Apply the first coat of paint. In a steady motion, spray a light coat of paint onto the pre-painted lamp. Chances are the primer will affect the color; this is common. Do not overspray the first coat. You will get a much brighter and smoother result by using multiple layers
Step 6. Wait for the first coat to dry
There are different directions as to how dry you need to let the first coat be before you can apply the next. However, the average agrees between half an hour to two hours. These instructions recommend waiting for 1 hour between each coat.
Spray paint actually takes about a day to dry completely, but there's no need to wait that long for each coat
Step 7. Apply a second and third coat of paint if necessary
Repeat the pattern described above to apply at least two more coats of spray paint. Make sure to keep each layer thin.
Step 8. Apply gloss or cover paint to the lamp
Once the last coat of paint is dry enough to coat again, replace it with a cover paint and spray. For a professional-looking result, choose a clear, glossy finish like Krylon No-Scent Glossy.
- For painting, once the first light coat has dried, add a second coat to maximize the glossy look.
- Once you are satisfied, protect the lamp from the elements and let it dry overnight. Do not touch the lamp at this time whenever possible.
Step 9. Finish
The next morning, remove the electrical insulation from the lamp and bring the lamp in. Install the bulb and hood to perfect the lamp.
There's no need to feel obligated to use the original lampshade. Stroll through department stores and thrift stores to find a hood you prefer
Tips
- When painting details, start by painting part of the background first, let it dry, then paint the details over it with a soft brush.
- Remember to use non-toxic paint to paint items that will come in contact with food. Most ceramic paints are non-toxic, but to be on the safe side, check the label.
