The process of installing ceramic tile can take a lot of time. For those with busy schedules, ceramic tile installation can take up to a week to complete the project. But actually, the ceramic installation process is not complicated, and the results you will get will be worth the effort you put in. Check out the following steps for more information on how to install ceramic tile (although you may have little experience with this) the fun way.
Part 1 of 4: Laying the Cement Board
Step 1. First of all, install the cement board on your foundation
Actually it is also possible to lay the ceramic directly on the plywood foundation, but this is really not recommended. A plywood foundation won't stick to ceramics as well as a cement board; also will not produce stability on the surface to which the ceramic will be installed.
The use of cement board will cost more and will take more time in the process of working on your project, however, this stage is totally worth it. To properly install ceramic tile, you need a solid foundation
Step 2. The cement in mortar and grout contains hazardous chemicals, so you must wear proper safety equipment
Cement can cause first-degree burns, eye injuries caused by dust or wet cement getting into the eyes, and can sometimes cause lifelong chromium sensitization, so keep yourself safe by always wearing water and alkali resistant gloves, long sleeved work clothes trousers and trousers (don't look like the photos in this article that don't adhere to proper safety guidelines!) and thick, water-resistant shoes. At the very least, wear goggles with side shields and ventilation when you are mixing cement, preferably wearing them during any work – keep in mind, if cement gets into your eyes you will have to wash them with water for 20 minutes and may have to go to the hospital. Do not wash your eyes with ordinary soap (soap with a neutral pH can be used). Make sure the mortar does not remain on your skin. Wash off any spots of semen that come into contact with your skin as soon as possible, and always have vinegar available to neutralize it.
Step 3. Apply thinset latex cement over the foundation
If you are making a mortar mix from scratch, mix enough water with the dry mortar and mix until the mortar mixture has a peanut butter texture. Then, let the mortar dough rest for 10 minutes. Use a hand trowel with a tip that is close to the thickness of the cement board to apply the mortar mixture.
Make sure that you only put in as much mortar as you can use in 10 minutes. After 10 minutes have passed, the mortar will begin to harden
Step 4. Press and place the cement board into the foundation and secure it with special cement board screws
Starting at one corner, place and press the cement board into the foundation using your body weight. Drill screws into the cement board to secure it. Screw the edge area of the board every 20 cm or so of the board and every 25-30, 5 cm in the center area of the board.
Step 5. Continue to apply the mortar mix and place the cement board on the foundation, and don't work from only one side of the room
For a more stable installation result, make sure you don't continue to install the tiles from one side of the room and continue to finish all the way to the other side. That is, you're better off putting one row of tiles on one side of the room, once that row is complete, work the next row on the opposite side of the room, after that, work the next row on the opposite side again, and so on until you're done.
Step 6. Cut the cement board with a saw or carbide-tipped knife
If you want to cut a non-straight shape, use a carbide-tipped saw or knife. However, if you only want to cut straight lines from the cement board, use a carbide-tipped knife (for Rp. 120,000).
Step 7. Finish by doing the mudding process and taping on each gap between the cement boards
This process is almost similar to mudding and taping on drywall, but here you are using a mortar, not a compound mixture; and fiberglass mesh tape instead of joint tape.
Place a small amount of cement with your trowel, then press the fiberglass mesh tape into the gaps between the tiles. Use your trowel to press the mesh tape into the seam to secure it with cement. Flatten the results so that it looks neat and does not make lumps
Part 2 of 4: Preparing for Ceramic Installation
Step 1. Clean the floor thoroughly using a non-toxic floor cleaner if necessary
Remove any residual glue, dirt, and mortar before you install the new tile. The floor must be really clean, so that the ceramic and thinset can stick well.
TSP, or trisodium phosphate, is a powerful cleaner to remove all the dirt if you need it. These cleaners really clean effectively, but nowadays they are not widely used because their use creates environmental problems
Step 2. Determine the point where you want to start the installation of your tiles
Most people choose to install tiles starting from the center and continuing to the edges of the room, which is very important if you are installing evenly sized tiles of the same size. This method will produce a nice effect in the center of the room, but later you will have to cut the tiles for the edges of the room. You may also decide to start your tile from another part of the room, especially if you are using an unusual sized tile. You can also install uncut tiles on one side of the room and start working from that area, especially if there are other interior fixtures such as sofas and cabinets that fill one side of the room. This article assumes that you want to start your tile installation from the center of the room and proceed to the outdoor area.
Make sure you adjust the layout of the tiles and their spacing on the cement board before actually attaching them to the cement. Layouts help you visualize the room before finishing it. Try different types of layout variations until you get a design that fits your style
Step 3. Find the center point of the room by threading the building thread in the center of the room lengthwise and wide
Attach the thread to the middle of each wall by measuring the length of the wall, then position the thread right in the middle of the wall. Leave the threads in place after you've tightened them to use as a guide in installing your first few tiles.
Place a few tiles along the thread line to make sure you mark the center line correctly. If you notice that the thread isn't going right in the middle, repeat this step until it's right
Step 4. Line up your ceramic squares and open them one by one
When you install the tiles, arrange the tiles in the order of variations you want. If you want to install ceramics with certain color variations, arrange the ceramic boxes based on the colors of the work order, so that it will be easier for you to determine which ceramics you should use next.
If at the end of the installation you find that there is a gap that is large enough compared to the size of your ceramic, seal the ceramic arrangement until the gap is about half the size of the ceramic, and pull the building thread again to use in installing the ceramic in this remaining gap. That way, you can reduce the amount of ceramic that has to be cut into smaller pieces to fit into the remaining gaps
Part 3 of 4: Installing Ceramics like an Expert
Step 1. Apply ceramic cement or thinset mortar to the area where the tiles will be installed
Use the flat part of the trowel to insert the thinset, then, draw a horizontal line on the applied thinset with the curved side of the trowel. The goal is that the cement or mortar that is applied will glue the ceramic well and evenly, compared to using lines with arbitrary patterns. Make sure that you only put in as much cement as you can process in 10 minutes, because after 10 minutes, the cement will harden and be difficult to use properly.
- If you are using cement floors, let the cement sit for 15 minutes to allow the cement to adhere well to the tiles.
- Use ceramic cement for linoleum and vinyl ceramics, and use thinset mortar for ceramic tiles or porcelain.
Step 2. Start placing the tiles in the center of the room and attach the tiles following the building threads you installed
Press each tile gently for better adhesion to the cement or mortar; You can also use a rubber mallet to press down each time you finish installing a row of tiles.
Step 3. Use spacer grout on each corner of your tile
Place the grout into the corner of the tile each time you finish laying a tile, being careful not to slide the tile. Clean the thinset that comes out between the tiles.
Step 4. Continue the installation process until all tiles are installed except for those on the edge of the room
Then, measure the gap remaining at the edge of the space and mark the tiles that need to be cut against the size you've measured. Use a wet saw to cut it, then attach the ceramic pieces like installing any other ceramic.
- If you install all the tiles in the center of the room first, then work on the process of measuring and cutting the tiles afterwards, you will only need to rent a wet saw for one day, that way, you save your ceramics and money.
- When placing pieces of tile in the corners of a room, it is better to coat the cement on the back of the tiles, rather than trying to put cement in small nooks and crannies and make the result messy.
Step 5. Allow the ceramic to set and dry overnight, then remove the spacer grout if necessary
Some can be left in place.
Part 4 of 4: Finishing Stage with Nat Cement
Step 1. Mix the cement grout according to the directions on the package; usually cement grout is mixed with water in a 19 L bucket
Stir until it resembles peanut butter. Same as thinset mortar, let stand for 10 minutes and stir again before applying it.
Step 2. Use a cement spoon to fill the gaps between the tiles with the grout cement, resulting in a smooth and even surface
Apply the grout in several different directions to ensure that the gaps between the tiles are filled with the grout cement effectively and evenly.
Work quickly. Cement grout dries quickly – faster than mortar. Therefore, work on a small area first
Step 3. Wipe off excess grout cement on your ceramics using a sponge
Again, start with a small area first so the cement doesn't harden before cleaning. You can also use a damp cloth afterwards to clean off any remaining cement on the ceramic. Allow the cement grout to dry for at least a few hours.
Step 4. Close the gap that has been filled with grout
after leaving it for 72 hours, Use the grout sealer with the applicator brush, being careful not to touch the ceramic.
If your foundation wood is not in good condition, add plywood to be used as a ceramic foundation layer
The equipment you need
- Cement board
- Carbide-tipped blade
- Non-toxic floor cleaner
- Unused cloth
- Building Yarn
- Ceramic cement or thinset mortar
- rubber hammer
- Spacer grout
- Wet saw
- Cement grout (grout)
- Bucket 20 L
- Cement spoon
- Grout sealer
- Applicator brush or roller