Cloudy aquarium water can have a number of causes including defects in the filter that prevent bacteria from filtering out, dirt from fish, fish food, chemical additives in the water, and by-products of decoration in the aquarium. Solutions to this problem include tackling the source and cleaning up the aquarium environment.
Step
Part 1 of 3: Changing the Aquarium Water
Step 1. Unplug the aquarium heater
Also disconnect the power source for other aquariums so there is no risk of electrocution when you are doing aquarium maintenance. However, don't get rid of the electrical device just yet.
Step 2. Remove all the plastic decorations and plants
Wear waterproof rubber gloves to do this. Remove all objects from the aquarium. Place on clean tissue paper.
Step 3. Scrub all sides of the aquarium
Do this using an algae sponge. Rub in a massaging motion on each inner surface. Scrub at least two or three times the bottom and sides of the tank.
Step 4. Turn off the pump
Remove the filter from its place in the tank and place it on clean tissue paper near the basin or sink with the decorations you removed earlier.
Step 5. Clean the filter, trim and plastic plants
Rinse filters, decorations, and houseplants under warm running water. Rinse everything thoroughly with water to make sure no dirt remains. Place the items back on the clean tissue paper.
Step 6. Install a gravel cleaning siphon
This device is usually a tube of composite material with a siphon connected to a faucet or bucket to collect the water that comes out. Push the tip of the gravel cleaner into the bottom of the aquarium gravel layer until it reaches the bottom. The debris will be lifted through the siphon along with the gravel and water. Once the water is clear, you'll need to close the hose valve or press the hose over the gravel to drop the stones. Pull the gravel cleaner up and down again to the adjacent area to repeat the previous process.
Do this until about a quarter or a third of the water has been removed from the tank
Step 7. Set the water temperature
Measure the temperature in the aquarium. Use a thermometer that is safe to use for water. You can buy a thermometer for an aquarium at a pet store. Use a thermometer to adjust the temperature of the water from your faucet to match the temperature of the water already in the tank.
This step focuses on keeping the fish unstressed by sudden changes. Different fish species may require varying temperatures, but the normal range is 23-28º C
Step 8. Turn on the faucet to let water flow into the aquarium
You can also manually fill the bucket to return the water level in the tank to its normal level. Add chemicals such as dechlorinators while filling the tank. If you are using a bucket, add the medicine to the water before pouring the water into the tank.
Step 9. Put the decorations, plastic plants, and filters back into the aquarium
Put the plastic decorations and plants first. Place these objects in the same position as before. Put the filter back in its proper place.
Step 10. Connect the heater and start the pump
Reconnect the aquarium's electrical system once your hands are outside of the tank and completely dry. Turn on the pump.
Part 2 of 3: Maintaining Filters and Accessories
Step 1. Clean or replace the mechanical external filter (filter canister)
Use a screwdriver or similar tool to open the top of the filter and gain access to the sponge or pad. Remove the sponge or pad and rinse under warm running water for a few minutes. Alternatively, you can use purified water from an aquarium water change session as rinse water to retain good bacteria and prevent ammonia contamination. If the sponge or pad is too full of debris, you will need to purchase a replacement and attach it to the filter. Once the original or new sponge/pad is in the filter, replace the cap and screw it back into place.
Filters like this need to be cleaned at least weekly, but you'll need to do it more often if you have more fish
Step 2. Perform maintenance using a chemical filter
Chemical filters are usually in the form of granules or pellets. Chemical filters are usually placed sequentially over the existing mechanical filter and the water – or between the mechanical and biological filters. Follow the instructions for use on the product you choose. However, you usually only need to pour the ordered number of grains into a ready-made filter or filter bag to place directly into the aquarium water. Activated carbon is a typical choice in this case. Activated carbon absorbs organic particles, drugs, odor-causing bacteria, and colors dissolved in the aquarium water. When the water becomes cloudy or smells bad, it's time to replace the chemical filter.
Usually, a filter like this is good to use for 1-2 months. If you are using a filter bag, place the bag in an area of the aquarium that has high water currents
Step 3. Rinse the biological filter
Biological filters harbor bacteria that participate in breaking down materials in the nitrogen cycle. This is an important step in keeping the water free of ammonia and nitrates – toxins that can be deadly to fish. These filters usually have a large surface area and come after chemical filters. In other words, the water will be filtered through mechanical and chemical filters first. If the biological filter is clogged, you will need to remove and rinse it only with aquarium water to retain the good bacteria and mucus on the surface.
You should only replace the biological filter if it is physically damaged
Step 4. Clean the impeller
For any motorized equipment, such as pumps or filters, you need to follow the manufacturer's instructions to maintain them properly. However, you can do some basic maintenance to ensure the water stays clean with proper functioning equipment. Perform cleaning of equipment that uses this power when the water change is turned off and unplugged from the aquarium. Use the instructions in the manual to remove the impeller blades (motor blades) from the filters and pumps using power. Use a clean cloth to wipe any debris from the impeller blades and check for damage. Replace if damaged.
Step 5. Clean the filter housing
With the filter removed during a water change, you can take a few extra steps in your maintenance. Rinse the filter mainframe, pipes (in and out), and apply an aquarium safe lubricant to any moving parts. Vaseline or liquid silicone can be useful as lubricants. Externally mounted powered pumps may require engine oil, but we recommend checking your manual. After cleaning and lubricating the filter, you will need to assemble the parts and put them back in the tank.
You may need to prime the filter before it can work again. Fill the filter with some of the aquarium water after putting it back in the tank. This step will restart the siphon function
Part 3 of 3: Dealing with the Cause
Step 1. Feed the fish less feed
Fish only need to be fed in small amounts once a day and should skip feeding once or twice a week. Remove any uneaten feed after 10 minutes.
Step 2. Add fish salt to the water
Fish salt is basically ordinary table salt (NaCl) without additives. Add 1 tbsp (15 ml) of fish salt to every 19 liters of aquarium water.
Ask your vet or pet shop owner if your species of fish will tolerate fish salts
Step 3. Add water conditioner
Water conditioners are chemical products to remove chlorine, chloramines, ammonia, and nitrates from cloudy water more directly. This product can work in both fresh water and sea water. Instructions for use may vary with each product, but you can pour it directly into the aquarium water at 50 ml of product per 189 liters of aquarium water.
Also add a water conditioner when changing the water
Tips
- Move all the fish into the fish bowl (small bowl-shaped aquarium) while you change the water in the main tank.
- Change the aquarium water at least once a week.
