If you like growing fruit and vegetables, chances are you'll want to grow tomatoes too. With so many varieties to choose from, their delicious taste, and the many health benefits that come with tomatoes, it's only natural that you'll love them. By taking proper care at planting, growing and harvesting, you can enjoy years of successful tomato harvests. Learn how to grow tomatoes from scratch or seedlings by following some of the easy steps in this article.
Step
Part 1 of 4: Choosing a Location to Grow Tomatoes
Step 1. Plant tomatoes directly in the ground, if possible
Almost all tomato varieties can be grown in the ground without having to water as often as when you grow them in pots. This method is worth considering if you want a large harvest.
Look for a location that gets 6-8 hours of sun exposure every day. If a disease spreads through the soil, it will be difficult to replace the soil or sterilize the entire area. Gardens are also more susceptible to attack by moles, gophers, squirrels, birds and deer
Step 2. Make garden beds or raised beds (raised plots of land with wooden edges)
This is a good option if your soil is exposed to a lot of pollutants. You can even change the planting medium if a disease attack appears or when needed. The loose soil allows water and air to flow better than garden soil. If you have back or leg pain, this is definitely an advantage because you don't have to bend over too much.
However, this method has a drawback, namely that you have to leave enough space between each bed for maintenance and harvesting. You will also have to prepare for the costs of buying the necessary materials, such as wood and tillage. Garden beds also dry faster than regular soil
Step 3. Use a container if you don't have land
Some types of planting containers are easier to move than others. This method is very suitable if you do not have sufficient land. However, you will need to water it more often because the growing medium dries quickly. You should also purchase additional crutches if you live in an area with frequent strong winds. Some popular types of planting containers include:
- Recycled buckets are easy to come by and inexpensive. These containers are lightweight, but you will have to make your own drainage holes in the bottom. Dark plastic buckets can overheat and produce toxic chemicals in the soil. Metal buckets can rust and stain your patio or deck.
- Tongs are an attractive choice and provide ample room for roots to develop. Remember, barrels are difficult to move and will eventually break. You will also have to make your own drainage holes in the bottom.
Step 4. Install a box for growing tomatoes under the upstairs window
You can water and harvest tomatoes by simply opening a window. The higher the window, the fewer pests that can attack. Only plant small varieties of tomatoes (e.g. cherry tomatoes) so they don't fall off. You should also screw the box firmly against the window.
Step 5. Hang the tomato plants
Use this method if you don't want to bend over the plant. Since the plant is not placed in or near the soil, you will need to water it frequently. You will also need strong supports to hold the plant in place.
- Hanging baskets can be installed in upstairs apartments by hanging them on window frames. Remember, you can only grow small varieties of tomatoes, such as cherry tomatoes.
- You can use an inverted pot from a recycled bucket. If you use this method, tomato plants do not need to be given a stake (stick). Birds also tend not to eat tomatoes because there is nowhere to perch. However, unabsorbed water will drip on the leaves and fruit, which can increase the risk of disease. Inverted pots also produce less fruit.
Part 2 of 4: Growing Tomatoes
Step 1. Buy tomato seeds
You can buy tomato seeds at seed halls, farm shops, and even at traditional markets. Choose seeds that look healthy and buy them in a location close to where you want to plant them.
Step 2. Add plenty of compost to the garden soil
Tomatoes require a growing medium that contains a lot of organic matter. If you don't have compost, buy compost at a farm store. This compost has been mixed with granite powder and topsoil. You will need 25 to 40 kg of compost per square meter. Place the compost in the top layer of soil (about 6 to 8 cm deep.).
Before planting seedlings or plants in the ground, spread a few handfuls of organic matter or eggshells at the bottom of the planting hole. As the plant's roots grow deeper, they reach this nutrient-packed layer just in time to increase fruit production
Step 3. Check soil pH
Tomatoes will thrive in slightly acidic soil. Soil that is too acidic can leach calcium from plants and cause blossom end rot. Keep the soil pH within the range of 6 and 6.8. If the soil test results show the pH is more than 6.8, water the tomato plant with a mixture of coffee and water using the same ratio. You can also add mulch from pine leaves. If the test results show the pH is below 6, add dolomite lime or another calcium source such as ground eggshell or calcite.
Step 4. Choose a sunny location
Place the tomatoes in a location that gets full sun. If you live in a cold area, try to get your tomato plants to get at least 6 hours of sunlight every day. If you live in a hot area, choose a shady location in the afternoon.
Keep in mind that tomato plants can tolerate full sun even if they are grown in hot areas. However, you should cover the soil with mulch and water it regularly
Step 5. Leave a distance of about 45-90 cm for each plant
This is enough to allow you to enter between plants to water them, weed weeds, and harvest fruit. If you live in a hot area, keep the plants about 25 to 50 cm apart. This distance allows the plants in the cage to shade the fruit that appears so that the fruit does not burn.
Step 6. Plant the tomato seedlings deep
Immerse about 50 to 80 percent of the length of the plant. Compact the soil around the roots. Make sure all the roots are completely covered. Cut off any leaves that are at the bottom and don't bury them in the ground. If you bury it in the ground, the leaves may rot.
When removing the plant from the nursery container, tap the bottom of the container and keep the roots and planting medium together. This is very important because broken roots can damage the plant
Part 3 of 4: Caring for Plants
Step 1. Install the tomato cage or stake for the tomato plant
This is useful for supporting plants. Don't wait more than 14 days. If you want, you can use a homemade cage.
- The cage must be at least 120 centimeters high. The cage can warp when the plant is heavy and collapse in strong winds. Remove secondary leaves and stems when the plant is growing.
- Ajir must be at least 1 x 5 cm wide and 2 to 2.5 meters long. Plug the stake as deep as 30-60 cm, with a distance of at least 5 cm from the plant. Lean the plant on the stake by tying it with cloth or natural rope, but not too tightly so that the plant does not suffocate. Ajir can be made of bamboo, logs, or iron rods.
Step 2. Water the plant every 7 to 10 days
Do this after the first week. Give about 500 ml of warm water to each plant every day. Watering with a spread or drip system (using a hose) is better than watering directly on plants that can encourage disease growth.
- To prevent the appearance of mold or fungal disease, water the plant in the morning.
- Reduce watering after 10 days. Make sure the plant gets 3 cm to 8 cm of rain water every week. If it doesn't rain, give each plant about 8 liters of water per week, starting at the end of the second week after planting.
- Increase watering as the plant grows and when the weather is hot. Water intensively 2 to 3 times a week, about 3-4 liters of water in each watering. Make sure the soil is damp, but not soaking wet.
Step 3. Spread mulch.
After 1 or 2 weeks, place mulch of dry grass or straw around the plant. This is useful for controlling weeds and keeping the soil moist during hot weather. The mulch should be 2.5 cm thick with about 30 cm in diameter surrounding the stem of the plant.
Step 4. Choose the fertilizer
Tomatoes can grow well organically if the soil is fertilized with organic matter. If you use chemical fertilizers, choose a fertilizer for vegetables. Use chemical fertilizers in the amount of half the dose of the recommended dose for each liter (according to the instructions on the package).
- Do not use fertilizer for grass. Comparison of minerals contained in this fertilizer aims to enlarge the stems and leaves.
- Excessive fertilization can make plants grow too quickly, making them susceptible to disease and insect attacks.
Step 5. Gently shake the stake or plant cage
This is useful for increasing fruit production because it will distribute pollen evenly. Do this once or twice a week for about 5 seconds. Start doing this when the plant is flowering.
Part 4 of 4: Dealing with Common Problems
Step 1. Check for suckers
These are branches that grow at the connection between the main trunk and other branches. Stem shoots will also use up nutrients while they are growing. If allowed to grow, stem shoots can indeed produce a lot of fruit, but they are small in size. Cut the stem shoots if you want large fruit.
Step 2. Cope with hot weather
If you live in a hot area, plant a heat-resistant tomato variety, such as Phoenix, Heatmaster, or Solar Fire. Look for a location that gets full sun in the morning and shade in the afternoon. Between 10 a.m. and 2 p.m., cover the plant with a protective cloth.
If the fruit begins to ripen when the weather is hot, with temperatures around 24 °C at night and over 35 °C during the day, pick the fruit early. Fruit cannot ripen in extreme heat
Step 3. Adjust the humidity
Tomato plants require high humidity (about 80-90 percent) during the day and moderate humidity (about 65-75 percent) at night in order to produce fruit. Humidity more than 90 percent or below 65 percent can trigger fruit butt rot. If you are growing them in a greenhouse, use a rotary psychrometer to measure humidity. To increase humidity outdoors or in a greenhouse, try spraying water mist on the plants. Reduce humidity in the greenhouse by increasing ventilation.
If you live in a very humid area, we recommend growing tomato varieties that are resistant to high humidity, such as Ferline, Legend, or Fantasio
Step 4. Prevent butt rot
Butt rot is damage to the underside of tomatoes with a black color. If you find it, the plant is no longer salvageable. The best course of action is prevention. Lack of calcium will cause fruit butt rot. How to prevent it:
- Bring 4 liters of water with 1 tablespoon (20 ml) of lemon juice to a boil.
- Add 6 tbsp. bone flour into the water and mix thoroughly. Don't worry if the mixture isn't completely dissolved.
- Cover the pot and boil for 30 minutes.
- Let the mixture cool.
- Sprinkle about 1 liter of solution on each plant on the leaves and roots.
- Repeat this treatment again in 3 to 5 days later.
- You can also sprinkle ground eggshells around the plant to add calcium to the soil.
Step 5. Install a homemade bird repellent
Place the red ornament around the top of the tomato cage. Birds will think that the ornament is a tomato and peck on it. The hard and tasteless surface of the ornament will confuse birds. After that, the birds won't bother your tomatoes.
Remember, this method only works temporarily. Before the tomatoes ripen, set a net over the plant to ward off birds
Step 6. Bring the ducks and chickens into the garden
You can do this if you live in an area that allows it. Ducks and chickens are very fond of snails and hornworms on tomato plants. If not controlled, snails and hornworms can kill plants because these pests eat leaves.
Step 7. Control the snail with cardboard
Place a cardboard roll used for toilet paper or regular tissue at the base of the young plant stem. The slippery cardboard texture will not be able to climb on the snail.
Step 8. Plant plants that attract beneficial predators
Some good options include calendula, zinnia, gumitir, and nasturtium. Koksi beetles and braconid wasps that are attracted to the plant will prey on aphids and hornworms that damage tomatoes.
Tips
- Pruned stem shoots can be planted in moist soil for new tomato plants. However, you should use large stem shoots. Only do this if you live in an area where you can grow tomatoes all year round because plants that come from stem shoots will reach maturity more slowly than other plants.
- If you want to reduce stem shoots on an "indeterminate" tomato plant, try not to remove all the stem shoots. Allow some of the shoots to grow long to produce a few leaves, then trim the ends. This way, the stem shoots won't grow long branches.
- If the stems or roots are damaged, you can still save the plant by piling it higher and lowering the branches, as when you filled up about 75 percent of the plant at the beginning of planting. The tiny fibers on the trunk and branches will turn into roots.
- Use water soaked in animal manure to fertilize plants. If there is rotting animal manure, you can make your own fertilizer. Put animal waste in stockings or cheesecloth (cheese wrapping cloth). Put stockings filled with animal waste into a bucket of about 20 liters of water. Let the stockings soak in there for a few days. Before use, mix this solution with water using the same ratio.
- You can grow the tomatoes you like by saving the seeds. However, you should first soak them in one cup of warm water mixed with the juice from the tomatoes for one week before you wash and dry them. Save the seeds for planting next year.
