Building a deck can add to the monetary value of your home for your convenience, whether you are having a party or as a miniature of nature's beauty. Building a deck takes work and planning, but a good plan and building a deck can be an asset that you can enjoy for several years. Here are some steps to take when planning and building your Deck.
Step
Method 1 of 3: Planning Your Deck
Step 1. Know the building laws in your area regarding Deck
The size of your home will have an impact on how big your deck will be, as will its shape. In most cases, your deck will also be needed to support loads that are larger than the floors in your home.
Your homeowners insurance policy may not cover accidents that occur to your deck if you do not build your deck according to the building codes in your area
Step 2. Obtain all necessary permissions
Check with local government agencies regarding permit requirements prior to building your deck, as well as any checks required during construction.
Step 3. Know the depth of the freeze line in your area
The freezing line is the depth at which the ground freezes in winter, averaging the number over the years. Some building codes require that when you build a Deck, the supporting bollards are anchored below the freeze line. Even if it's not needed, driving support posts to that depth will keep the Deck from shifting as the ground expands and getting bigger when the water inside freezes.
Step 4. Determine the size, style and placement of your Deck
Your deck can also stand alone or attach to the house. While some building rules would be more comfortable on a stand-alone deck, most people would be more comfortable with their deck attached to the house.
- If you're building your deck indoors, you'll need to know where the rim points and wall posts are placed so you can guarantee the deck's mainboards, the supporting beams that attach to the house, to everything.
- The size of your deck will determine the number of steps and bollards you need to support the rim beams and deck boards, along with the size and spacing of the rim beams and deck board size. Rim beams can be spaced 12, 16 or 24 inches (30, 40 or 60 centimeters) apart, however 24 inch spacing is widely used; Rim beam and deck board sizes are mostly used "according to your needs."
- The height when you build your deck determines whether you need to add bars, bollards and steps. You won't need it if the deck is built on the ground, but you will need it if it's higher than the ground.
- Creating a preparatory sketch of what you have in mind will help you detail materials and construction inputs.
Step 5. Choose the material to make your Deck
There are several hardwood figures and composite materials that you can use to build your deck. Materials for deck boards can range from tropical lpe and plastic to the more traditional redwood, cedar and pine. Installations, columns and bollards, however, must be stress-resistant or otherwise break-resistant wood as required.
Method 2 of 3: Preparing the House
Step 1. Mark the place where the top of the deck leads
Usually, this will be the height of the interior floor and just below the threshold of any design or door that will open onto the Deck. Use the levels to draw lines on the sides along the length of the deck.
Step 2. Mark the place where the bottom of the deck leads
From the line you created, measure the thickness of the deck board (usually 1 to 1 inches, or 2.5 to 3.75 centimeters), plus the height of the motherboard. (If the motherboard is 2x10, it will be 9.5 inches, or 23.75 centimeters.) Mark this line across the entire length of the motherboard leads.
Step 3. Remove the sides from the motherboard will peak
If the sides are solid sides, you can cut them with a circular saw or chainsaw, as long as you don't cut into the undercoat from the sides. If the side is a vinyl side, you will need special equipment to disassemble the side; after removing it, you will need to redraw the lines for the top of the deck and the bottom of the motherboard on the layers.
Skip the steps in this section if you plan to build a stand-alone deck
Method 3 of 3: Building Your Deck
Step 1. Measure and cut the motherboard
Check the suitability of the house before the process.
If you plan to cover the rim beams of your house with boards that run through the deck, cut the baseboard shorter to accommodate the width of the plank (usually inch, or 1.9 centimeters) on both sides
Step 2. Mark where the rim beam will lead
First, mark the edges of the Deck rim joists on the left side of the mainboard (Usually you are 2 rim joists stretched side by side for strength.) Then, mark the center where each alternate rim beam leads and measure half the rim thickness of each of these marks on all sides. Then mark the edge of the rim beam on the right side of the motherboard. Draw a line across the surface of the motherboard to the markings on all sides of the rim beam.
Step 3. Prepare the blocks that will point opposite to the motherboard
Cut the blocks the same length as the main board. If you plan to make the ends of the rim joists flush with this joist (beams are even), then use a square trim to align the sides of the two joists and then make a thorough mark. If you plan to make the rim beam rest on this beam (support beam), you only need to mark through the top.
Most building codes require opposing joists to be two or three times as thin as interior rim joists so as with the rim joists, you have to cut the joists multiple times and stack them side by side. (If the Deck is a stand-alone Deck, the motherboard beams will be layered with one or two other beams for strength.)
Step 4. Nail the rim beam hanger
Check the distance from the rim hanger to the width of the piece of wood from the rim joist, then nail the rim hanger in place with thick, short nails to secure the rim joist. If your opponent's block is an even block, you will attach the rim block hanger to the innermost part of the block.
Step 5. Connect the motherboard to the house
Nail the board in place temporarily with nails. Drill 1 or 2 holes between where every 2 rim joists lead. Apply silicone putty into each hole, then work the bolts into each hole to keep the motherboard permanently in place. Cover the motherboard with a waterproof coating or galvanized metal.
Skip this step if your Deck is a standalone Deck
Step 6. Dig a hole for the footing
You can design the position for the footing using ropes and stakes or a punching board to form the net. Mark the position of the steps on the ropes, then move them to the ground. Dig 6 inches (15 centimeters) below the frost line for each step with a bollard or drill; make the bottom wider than the top for each hole.
You may need to check the depth of the hole before you pour the cement
Step 7. Install the footing and form the foundation
Place one in each hole and reinforce it with fine aggregate, then trim all foundation levels to support temporary posts. Pour the cement into the hole and let it sit for about 24 hours first.
Step 8. Cut and place the posts on the foundation
To lock the posts in place, set steel rods 6 inches (15 centimeters) long or cut in half into the foundation to support the directional plates and drill holes in the bottom posts before placing them. You can also seal the top of the foundation with adhesive before setting the posts if the top is wood or using hooks if the top is cement. Weigh the bollard as a level and temporary affix to keep the bollard from moving until the trim is placed.
Step 9. Install the opposing beam just above the post
If your posts are tall enough, you may need to raise individual sections of the beam one at a time rather than all at once. Arrange the beams so that they are flush with the sides of the posts. Attach the innermost part of the joist with nails or whatever connectors are required according to your building code.
Step 10. Install the rim beams
Connect the edge of the rim beam to the motherboard and the deepest part of the opposing joist is flush with the inside of the corner bracket. Arrange the beam sections to make them square otherwise add the outer reinforcing sections of the beams to the innermost sections with nails, bolts or large bolts.
Step 11. Install the interior rim beam
Review each side of the beam for all signs of course (peaks). Insert it into the joist hanger on the main board and the opposing block evenly (or on top of the adjoining opposing block), the top facing up. Press it in place if needed, and if it's too tight, trim the ends a bit so they'll fit in without pressing force. If the opposing block is a sticking block, nail the block in place.
Step 12. Lay out the deck boards
Measure the deck trim from the outside of one rim joist to the outside of the other joist and increase the width with any skirting or length of excess. Cut the first two deck boards this length, then cut the length of the excess boards propped against the house. (The next plank doesn't need to be cut to this length, but can be laid out first and cut evenly with the first two boards afterward.) Set the first plank against the house lining and the next plank against it if it's wet and the width of the metal nail 16 apart from it if it's dry. Attach the board to the rim beam with two nails or bolts. Align the boards along with the flat rows.
- If you are building a wide deck, you can cut the deck boards across to increase the distance between the edges of the rim beams, with the place where the two boards rest in the middle of the rim beams. Arrange these blocks between each row to make the Deck look nicer.
- Periodically measure the distance from the front of the deck to each end of the last plank. It must be the same; otherwise it will reduce the gap between the boards on the longer side and increase the gap on the shorter side until they are the same distance again.
- If the last deck board is wider than it fits, bolster it or use a pedestal of the same type as the deck material. If the plank is narrower than the available space, take a wider board and support it as necessary.
- The photo shows the deck boards being parallel to the beams, they shouldn't just be laid out. Instead, place it perpendicular to the rim beam.
Step 13. Build stairs, if needed
If your deck is tall enough to require stairs, determine the number of steps you need by dividing the seven deck heights in feet. If the quotient is a whole number, use the quotient as the number of steps, with a height of 7 inches (17.5 centimeters). If the quotient includes a fraction, round the number close to a whole number to get the number of steps and divide that number by the height of the deck to get the height of each step in inches. Divide the height by 75 to get the appropriate length for each rung.
- You will need a beam at each end of the ladder to attach the steps and another beam in the middle if you have a wide or tall ladder. Place the first block without a checkerboard to determine the height, then transfer the markings to another block. Cut the rung supports, then secure the joists together and nail the edges of the rim joists before securing them permanently with large bolts.
- Cut the steps about inch (1.9 centimeters) longer on each side of the joist to walk the rain away from the joist. Attach it to the block with bolts or nails.
Step 14. Build and install Deck railings, if needed
If your deck is taller, you will or need to have a deck railing to prevent someone from falling. Start by attaching the corners and bollards of the stairs, joining them together and securing them with glue, then bolting or using steel bolts. The important parts, the top of the fence, the bottom of the fence and the coils- may be taped separately or put together and then put together.
- Measure the distance between the posts to find the length of the fence and cut it to length.
- Vertical spools usually require more than 4 inches (10 centimeters) of space apart and must be placed close together if they will make more room for the deck. It can be attached to the fence with nails or bolts, When the fence itself is attached to the stumps with corner bolts. (Use wooden bricks to support the railing while bolting.)
- Cut the stair posts to get the right height and angle with the help of box trim, then attach the bottom of the stair railing and railing handrail. Find the length of the railing by dividing the height of the stairs, multiplying by the length of the deck railing, squaring the result, adding the square of the length of the deck railing and finding the square root of the result. Cut the bobbin to the right length, adjust the angle of the railing slope and attach the description above to the Deck coil.
Step 15. Glue the skirting boards, if desired
Cut the boards to cover the deck joists and rim joists and nail them in place.
Warning
Before carrying out the above instructions, check with the local development department for any special needs not mentioned above that may have an effect
The Equipment You Need
- Deck Pillars (4 x 4s or 6 x 6s)
- Beams (4 x 6s, 4 x 8s or 4 x 10s, or double or triple layers of 2 x 6s, 2 x 8s or 2 x 10s)
- Rim Beam (2 x 6s, 2 x 8s or 2 x 10s)
- Ladder Beam (2 x 12s)
- Deck Board (2 x 4s, 2 x 6s or 5/4 x 6s)
- Steps (Same material as Deck boards)
- Fence Posts (4 x 4s)
- Fence (2 x 4s or 2 x 6s)
- Spool (2 x 2s)
- Skirting Board (1 x 8s, 1 x 10s or 1 x 12s)
- Concrete (ready-mixed or bagged)
- Concrete Brick
- Exterior Chalk
- Construction Glue
- Steel plate (1/2-inch/1.25 centimeter diameter)
- Rim Beam Hanger
- Metal flashing (galvanized)
- Plain or steel nails(galvanized or coated, 8-, 10- and 16-penny sizes)
- Bolts (galvanized or coated, 2 1/2-inch/6.25 centimeters and 3 1/2-inch/8.75 centimeters)
- Lag screws and washers
- Carriage bolts, nuts and washers
