Coating your floor can protect it, create a non-slip surface, and add an attractive shine. As long as you coat it properly and don't mind doing it once or twice a year, you can produce a floor that is durable and beautiful. In the past, the way to coat the floor was to rub it with your hands and feet on the floor. Now, you're going to use a non-gloss wax that you can mop on the floor.
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Part 1 of 4: Preparing the Floor
Step 1. See if the floor has been polished
You may want to coat a floor that has been polished before, because eventually the surface of this floor will become worn and dirty. First, find out what type of polishing product has been used on your floors: natural polishes are called “waxes”, synthetic polishes are called “finishes”. If the previous owner couldn't tell you what product to use, you'll need to check your flooring yourself.
- If your floor is not shiny or glossy, and you can feel the original material with your finger, then your floor has never been polished.
- Wipe a small area of the floor with a cloth dipped in alcohol or paint thinner. If the fabric turns yellow or brown, your floor has been waxed.
- If there are no marks on your fabric, it means that your floor has been polished with a.
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Choose wax or finish. If your floor has been polished before, you can choose any wax or finish product that is intended for the material your floor is made of. Polyurethane is a popular polish with a lustrous option. However, each product will look a little different. So do your research and choose which look you want. If your floor has already been polished, you need to choose the correct option:
- The polish marks will be difficult to completely remove because they soak into the wood. This makes the floor unsuitable for a synthetic finish (finish), unless you hire a professional to do a thorough polish. However, the new polish can be applied effortlessly after peeling and can also be used on surfaces that are only scratched, not soiled.
- If the floor has already been polished to a finish, you can re-coat it using a floor machine with a polisher to remove part of the previous polish (finish), then use the same type of polish (finish) to improve the appearance. If you can't guess what type of polish was used before or if you want to use a different type of polish, you'll need to remove all of the previous polish first.
- If you don't want to remove the previous polish, you can use a water-based silicone polish, but not by re-polishing. Sweep your floor, then apply several even coats of polish with a mop.
Step 2. Remove all furniture from the floor
Decide where you plan to polish and remove anything from the area. Put a sign in a public place to let people know the area is impassable for 8 hours.
To be very safe, cover the ends of adjacent areas to protect them from polishing, especially carpet areas
Step 3. Determine if you need to exfoliate your floor
If your floor has never been polished with a wax or finish, you can polish your floor right away. If your floor has been polished before and has only a few scratches but no discoloration, you can also polish it right away.
Part 2 of 4: Peeling off the Old Finish
Step 1. Purchase a suitable exfoliating solution for your floor
Once you've followed the guidelines in Preparing the Floor and know the type of finish, buy an exfoliating solution that will remove the coating. Also make sure the solution is safe to use on wood, or on any material that makes up your floor.
If you can't find a product that matches the type of finish on your previous floor, try using a “common” exfoliating solution in the corners of your floor to test it
Step 2. Clean your floor using a broom or mop
Remove all dust and debris from your floor using a dust mop (if you have one), or a broom (if you don't). Use clean footwear so that your floor is not dirty again.
Step 3. Use safety equipment
The chemicals in the solution can harm your skin or produce toxic fumes. Work in a ventilated area and protect yourself with gloves, a long-sleeved shirt and long pants. Use protective eyewear and a breathing mask if you want to cover a lot of your floors or if your workplace is not well ventilated.
Use a breathing mask that can block organic vapors
Step 4. Put the garbage bag in the bucket, then fill it with the exfoliating solution
The thick trash bag makes cleaning easier and the bucket you can use for other purposes later. Follow the directions on the exfoliating solution to see how much you need and whether you need to mix it with water. Always have a mop ready.
- Garbage bags are very important to keep the exfoliating solution from settling on the bucket that you will use to clean the floor later.
- A “strip mop” mop is designed for better cleaning, but you can use any type of mop.
Step 5. Since you don't have much time to clean the exfoliating solution, then you need to prepare a second bucket that you fill with clean water and also prepare a second mop
Do not use the first mop to clean, because the mop has traces of exfoliating solution.
Step 6. Use a mop and exfoliating solution from the farthest end of your room to the exit
Exfoliating solutions can make floors slippery, so plan your mopping route ahead of time to avoid walking on it again. Mop your floor evenly and let it sit for 5 to 10 minutes, but don't let it dry.
- Try using a finish on your mop when you use an exfoliating solution. The exfoliating solution should change color within the next few minutes as it mixes with the finish.
- If you're mopping a large area, do this in small sections to prevent the exfoliating solution from drying out.
Step 7. Use an auto scrubber or a regular electric mop to apply to the exfoliating solution (optional)
For large floors, an auto scrubber or electric mop is highly recommended, as you will be able to use it to thoroughly coat the floor with a finish.
- If you use an auto scrubber, coat your floor without using the rubber contained in the auto scrubber.
- If you are using an electric mop, use the exfoliating mat on the electric mop. You will need it for a large floor.
Step 8. Scrape the wax off every corner and edge of the floor
To do this, you can use a doodle pad or a razor blade tool such as a poll scraper with a long handle. If you don't want to buy a specially designed tool like this, you can use a flat blade like a knife. Without setting your foot on the slippery surface of the exfoliating solution, use a knife to scrape the polish off the corners of the floor where the exfoliating solution and mop are difficult to remove.
You may need to scrub the polished baseboard as well. You can purchase an exfoliating mat specifically designed for the baseboard if you use an electric mop
Step 9. Remove the exfoliating solution and polish using a wet vacuum or auto scrubber
Use this after the finish has gone off your floor but before the exfoliating solution has dried. If you exfoliate the floor using an exfoliating solution using an auto scrubber, you can lower the squeegee and use the auto scrubber again. Otherwise, you will need to use a wet vacuum to remove the solution.
If one part of the solution starts to dry out, pour a little water from your bucket of clean water to keep it wet
Step 10. Clean your floor using a clean washcloth and a bucket of water
Wipe several times to make sure all the exfoliating solution is gone. You can also use a neutralizer for the exfoliating solution in your water to make sure the next polish will stick properly. If you don't want to buy the neutralizer, you can simply clean your floor thoroughly a few times.
You can also use an auto scrubber or electric mop in this step, as long as you've changed the base beforehand. Do not use the same base as you used to apply or clean the exfoliating solution
Step 11. Wash all equipment used
Thoroughly clean the equipment used, including the inside of the hose and engine tank. If you leave it unclean, the coating solution will dry into hardened dirt and damage your equipment.
Step 12. Allow your floor to dry completely
Don't coat your floor until it's completely dry, or the polish you're using won't stick properly. You can put a fan in the room to speed up the drying process.
Part 3 of 4: Covering the Floor
Step 1. Follow the instructions on the finish package if you prefer to use a finish over wax
Floor wax is a natural product that works deep into the wood pores. If you are trying to produce the same result using a synthetic finish, which does not work on wood, you will need to follow some specific instructions for your product.
Polyurethane, the most common modern finish, should be stirred first and applied as quickly as possible to coat the floor in a back and forth motion throughout the room, overwriting the previous coat to keep your coat wet. You should wear a breathing mask and keep the fan facing the window when you work
Step 2. Sweep and mop your floors as clean as possible
Use a dust mop to remove as much dust and small particles as possible. Anything you don't wipe off the floor will most likely be covered in polish, and the dust or particles will stay there until someone peels off your polish.
Step 3. Use a new sponge mop or a new polishing cloth
Never use an old mop, even if it doesn't look dirty. Sponge mops that have been used to clean floors are more likely to stain the polish, ruining its appearance.
Step 4. Put the trash bag in the bucket, then fill it with floor wax
These trash bags are used to prevent wax from getting on the bucket and damaging it for future use. If you are using a mop designed to use wax, you can skip this step. This mop is specially designed to be waxed so that it can be poured directly onto the part of the mop.
Step 5. Use wax on your mop
Dip a sponge mop in wax, or pour wax over the top of a specially designed mop. If your mop drips, you should press the wringer against your bucket or press against the side of the bucket. Don't wring it directly on your mop; the goal is to get your mop wet with wax, not dry or dripping.
Step 6. Wax a small part of the floor gradually
Start in the corner of the room away from the door so you don't have to step on the wax marks if you want to leave the room. If you try to coat the wax in too large an area, you will most likely miss a few spots or you will coat the floor unevenly.
- If your first layer is too thick, the whole process may fail. Be careful not to pour excess wax on your floor, and use only a slightly damp mop, not a drenched one.
- When one part of the floor is evenly coated, mop the area in a unidirectional motion to make it look even. Now you can move to another part of the floor.
Step 7. Wait for it to dry completely
This will take about half an hour, but can be longer in areas of high humidity. After ten minutes you've allowed it to dry naturally, you can use a fan in the room to allow the coating to dry faster, but don't point it directly at the freshly coated floor. It can block the adhesive
Read the instructions on your floor wax package for an accurate estimate of drying time
Step 8. Apply additional layers in the same direction
After the previous layer is completely dry, coat the floor again. Remember to do it piece by piece and plan your route to the door.
- The packaging of your floor wax product should also have the recommended number of coats on it. Otherwise, use three or four thin layers. Stop if the wax starts to turn yellow.
- Avoid stepping on or putting anything on the final coat for 8 hours to ensure a perfect result.
Step 9. Immediately wash all equipment
If you allow the wax to dry on your equipment, the dirt will be very difficult to remove. Clean equipment that you will use again in the future with soap and hot water.
Step 10. Gloss your floor while you wax if needed
Many waxes don't need to be polished and will stay shiny without any extra effort. Other waxes require you to coat with a polishing base or machine burner. If you don't want to buy special equipment, use a clean cloth towel to cover your floor in a circular motion.
- Tie a towel around the head of the dry mop and you don't have to kneel down.
- The polishing base can be hooked under the brush of the electric mop and used to polish the floor.
Part 4 of 4: Caring for the Coated Floor
Step 1. Re-wax the floor regularly
Hardwood floors should be waxed every six to twelve months. Vinyl floors should be resurfaced every six months, just like tile or stone floors.
Step 2. Never use a submerged mop, and never use a mop on hardwood that has already been coated
The wax coating is not waterproof, so water will harm the wood. Wipe up spills with paper towels. Vinyl and other non-wood surfaces can be cleaned with a wet mop, but not soaking wet.
This does not apply to wood coated with polyurethane, which can be mopped using a mop soaked in a mixture of 1 liter of water and cup (60 mL) of vinegar
Step 3. Polish or polish your floor if the shine is gone
Use a towel or gloss pad to polish the floor if it starts to fade. This is not necessary if you are using a matte wax.
Step 4. Sand the part of the wax if it turns yellow or loses color
If you don't want to do this manually, use an electric mop with a soft scrubbing mat that's strong enough to remove a small portion of the wax.
- You'll need to apply a new coat or two of wax after removing a few coats to create another strong coat.
- You won't have to do this in years if your floors are properly coated.