Floor fringes cover the joints between the walls and the floor and add an essential finishing touch to a room. Not only this, floor ledges are relatively easy to cut and install, making them the perfect DIY project for homeowners who like to try something new. To remove the old floor ledge and install a new one, learn how and which cuts to make, read the following instructions.
Step
Part 1 of 3: Removing the Old Floor Edges
Step 1. Use a utility knife to cut into the coating or paint along the top edge of the fringe cut
If you don't do this, you will likely crack the paint around it.
Step 2. Use a putty knife to loosen the edge pieces from the wall
Do this gently to avoid damaging the walls and floor. If needed, use another object such as a screwdriver or a thin piece of wood to help with the process.
Step 3. Pull out the edge pieces
Most nails should be removed by the edges, but if necessary, remove the nail if it is still stuck to the wall. Scrape and sand away any glue or coating that might be blocking the installation of the new floor rim.
Part 2 of 3: Measuring and Measuring Edge Cuts
Step 1. Measure the perimeter of the room
Measure the dimensions of each straight wall, slightly rounded up. Especially for beginners, giving yourself some leeway and cutting a little more is necessary for the right size. Remember, it is always possible to cut, but not always possible to add.
When measuring outer corners, be sure to add additional space to your measurements to allow for outer corners. You'll want at least the width of your floor ledge in the extra space, if possible a little more
Step 2. Select and purchase your ingredients
Purchase more pieces than your sizing calculation to allow for smaller edges and for an unavoidable error or two in measuring and cutting. Some people use an estimate of 10% more, but usually just buying an extra length or two is enough. If possible, purchase a floor ledge and bring it in one week prior to installation to allow the rim to adapt to the climate in its new environment.
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There are three components that are mostly projected floor rim installation. From top to bottom, they include:
- Top engraving. This engraving is just above the edge of the floor for added decorative detail.
- Floor edge. Usually at least 6 inches (15.2 cm) high, the floor ledge is mostly flat and forms a large part of the floor ledge.
- Basic engraving. Other embellishments below, between the floor and floor edges, they complete the look.
Step 3. Place the spirit level on your floor
You want to make sure your floor is level, or the floor may stick out from the edges of your floor at some point and come off. Use a 4 foot spirit level to check if the floor is level.
If the floors are not level, use a spirit level to find the lowest point in the room. Nail small strips from the edge of the floor to the wall at the lowest point. Make horizontal marks every few inches in both directions starting at the top of the floor rim, making sure to line up with this line. When several horizontal marks have been made, draw a chalk line above the horizontal marks. This will indicate where the top of the floor rim will stand when installed
Step 4. Mark the edges of the floor
To make sure the top of the floor ledge is completely parallel to your chalk line, you'll want to give the floor ledge a mark. Nail a piece of floor ledge at the inner corner with a nail or two once aligned. Use a compass to measure the distance between the chalk line (below) and the top edge of the edge of your nailed floor.
- Keeping your compass rigid, hold the pointed end of the compass to the floor and the pencil side to the edge of the floor. Move the pencil all the way from the edge of the floor to print the schematic.
- Use a circular saw or jigsaw to cut along the marked line on the edge of the floor. If you have a circular saw, adjust the angle slightly (2° - 5°) on the cut. This will make fitting much easier at the end.
- With a block sharpener, sharpen the beveled end from the edge of the floor. Then reattach the floor ledge to the floor and make sure it aligns with the chalk line on your wall.
Step 5. Start by measuring and cutting the outer ends
Cutting sharp corners is especially important when two pieces of wood meet at an outer corner. For best results, use a saw for acute angles instead of a square and hand saw for ease of use and efficiency. Here's how to cut a simple 90° outer corner:
Assuming the corners form a perfect 90° angle, cut each piece of wood at a 45° angle and attach it to form the outer corner. When unsure, make the cut a little longer than you need; You can always shorten it if you need to
Step 6. Decide whether to join or line your inner corners
For inner corners, the joining process is the same as for outer corners, except that the direction is reversed. But not all carpenters are willing to join the inner corners, because the corners are rarely perfectly square and result in a slippery joint. If you're looking for a more snug fit or installing floor ledges that don't require additional paint or coating, learn how to cut traditional wall headboards.
- The process is actually quite simple. Start with a 45° deep cut on the edge of the floor you want to cover. The other end of the floor ledge will not need to be cut at all; the coated joint will cover the remaining pieces of the floor edge.
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Use an indentation saw to cut out the shape made by your first 45° cut. The goal is to leave the paint line intact but cut an angle of 45° back to remove the wood behind the paint line.
If desired, a Dremel tool can be used to perform almost the same task, but a slit cutting saw is quite easy and actually more precise
- Sand any rough patches or chips to smooth out the coating.
Step 7. Work on the various parts
In theory, most projects involve a room that has three or four walls and corners that are completely square. In reality, this is very rare. Here are some important examples for you to consider when trimming flooring edges:
- Uneven corners. When you encounter an angle that doesn't form a ninety degree angle, scrape material for installation until you find the right corner cut. Then, use those settings on your saw to cut the wood.
- Middle wall. You will most likely need to use more than one piece of flooring to cover very long walls. Instead of just sticking the ends flat against each other, which can separate over time as the wood shrinks, cut the two halves at a 45-degree angle to each other (to fit together so //) so that the shrinkage will be less noticeable.
- The final part. If the edge of the floor touches something and it is not necessary to continue at any angle (example: the edge of the floor touches the door frame), simply cut it off and slide it away from the object.
Step 8. Sand and apply primer to the edges of the floor
Once you've marked and cut the corners of your floor's edges, you'll want to sand and prime. If you have chosen a pre-painted material, sanding before installation will save a lot of time on your hands and knees. If you've chosen plain wood, paint the wood with a primer, let it dry, and sand it down before installing.
Part 3 of 3: Installing the Floor Rim and Finishing
Step 1. Nail the edges of the floor in place with nails
Use the nail hole finder to locate the hole in the wall for nailing; alternatively, tap the wall to distinguish the hollow area from the hole. Drive the nail under the surface with the direction of the nail awl, or with a nail gun. Fill all nail holes with putty, allow to dry, and sandpaper.
- On the outer corners, apply a thin drip of wood glue or adhesive to the joined ends to ensure a better joint.
- On the inside corners, the adhesive is not a must if you have properly coated the edges of your floor.
Step 2. Install the base engraving and top engraving if needed
Nail the base carving to the floor with pin nails, and the top carving into the nail holes wherever possible.
Step 3. Apply a coating to the carved part in a wet place
Coat not only the top, but also the top edges and corners and nail holes. Doing this in the bathroom is a must. If you're afraid of falling or dripping, you might also consider lining the floorboards directly under the kitchen sink.
Step 4. Embellish the pieces of wood with wall herbs
Coat the entire nail hole as well as any scuffs or marks with a small amount of the herb using your finger. The potion should dry very quickly.
Step 5. Plaster the walls and floor above and below the lumber (not mandatory)
This will allow you to quickly paint the pieces of wood without leaving the edges. Use something that comes off easily and leaves no residue, like paint tape. You can also take your chance and paint just by hand.
Step 6. Apply your final paint
Wood strips are usually finished with glossy or semi-gloss paint or varnish. It's a tough and long job, so be sure to get good knee pads. If the edges of your floor have already been painted, you only have to worry about this step if you want to varnish.
Tips
- The base engraving is usually attached to the edge of the floor, although with hardwood floors, some choose to install it on the floor to avoid opening gaps later between the carving and the floor.
- The piece of wood should have been installed around the door before you start installing the floor ledge.
- A nail drill (rented from a local equipment rental agency) will make the job of installing the pieces of wood easier.
- You'll find a limited selection of engraving stock at home supply stores; if you want more options, you can usually find them at the lumber mill. Purchase pre-painted wood edges if possible, as this will save you a step on the way to installation.
- If the wall is uneven in places, you might finish with some gaps between the wall and the floor ledge. Fill these gaps with paintable putty, allow the putty to dry completely, then paint to match the color of the walls.
