To get a quiet room to be alone, or a recording studio, or a music room, you have to make the room soundproof. Read the description below for useful advice on how to soundproof rooms either on the cheap or the professional way.
Step
Method 1 of 2: The Easy Way
Step 1. Install a sound curtain or thick blanket
You can absorb some sound by placing a thick blanket against the wall. If you are willing to spend a little money, buy a thick sound curtain instead.
If you have thick, insulated walls, this will have a bit of an added effect
Step 2. Use the bookshelf
You can make walls thicker and more soundproof by simply using bookshelves. Cover the walls with bookshelves filled with books for an effective sound barrier. Plus, you'll also have a pretty library as an added bonus.
Step 3. Block loose objects
Have you ever heard a neighbor playing music very loudly and making a loud buzzing, rattling and vibrating sound? Yes, that's the reason why you have to jam things like loudspeakers. Use vibration damping pads to keep things like loudspeakers from disturbing those around you.
Step 4. Install a door sweep (a rubber pad like a broom that is installed under the door)
Nail this rubber pad to the bottom of the door to seal the gap. If the gap is too wide to cover with a sweep, put a piece of wood under the door first.
Step 5. Use acoustic damper panels
Purchase panels that are 30.5 x 30.5 cm with 5 cm deep grooves. This panel is very good at absorbing low to high frequency sound. Some panels have been equipped with adhesive glue. Use spray glue to attach the panels to walls and ceilings if the panels are not equipped with adhesive glue. You can cover all or part of the surface, depending on the level of tightness you want. This will reduce the 'noise' in the room and make your ears comfortable, especially if the room is used for music practice.
Use panels that are mostly fiberglass with an outer layer of thin, perforated Mylar. This type of panel is superior in terms of sound absorption among almost all silencer panels except for special panels which are the most expensive. The benefits you get are well worth the money you spend, much better than other products on the market
Method 2 of 2: Building a Soundproof Room
Step 1. Use a thick material
The thicker and denser the material, the better the damping power. Consider using (1.6 cm) of drywall (a building material used to make walls) instead of using a thinner size.
If you're repairing an existing wall, create a baseboard for the wall and attach it to the surface, so it can hold it against the existing boards. Cover this with a new layer of drywall or sheetrock
Step 2. Separate the two layers of the wall
Every time sound passes through new materials, some of its energy is absorbed, and some is reflected. Enhance this effect by building a wall made of two sheets of drywall or sheetrock, with as wide a gap as possible. This is called decoupling.
Decoupling actually makes walls not very good at blocking out low-frequency sounds, due to the echo in the walls. If the distance between the walls is only 2.5 cm or less, we recommend using a dampening compound to counter this effect
Step 3. Design your board placement
Most walls contain a single row of boards attached to both layers of the wall. Sound can pass through this board easily, so it can frustrate your hard work. When building a new wall, choose one of the following plank placements:
- Two rows of boards, one of which is installed along each side of the interior. This is the best sound-muffler method, but it requires sufficient space to provide a gap between the two rows of boards.
- A row of uneven boards, which are alternately placed along one side of the interior, then on the other.
Step 4. Consider a sound clip or channel
Both are placed between the boards with drywall, which provides an additional sound barrier. There are two main options:
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Sound clip is the most effective way, which absorbs sound with heavy rubber components. Screw this material into the board, insert the drain cover, then screw the drywall into the channel.
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Bending ducts are elastic metal conduits designed for sound suppression. Screw this material to the board and drywall using a screwdriver. This can increase the ability to block high frequencies at the expense of low frequencies.
Image - Note that the drain cover is not effective at drowning out sound.
Step 5. Fill the walls with dampening compound
This magical substance converts sound energy into heat. It can be used between layers of walls, floors, or ceilings. Unlike most other methods, this will absorb sounds that have low frequencies. This is perfect if you like the loud bass that comes from your music and home theater systems.
- It is also sold in the form of sound-absorbing glue or viscoelastic adhesive.
- Some of these compounds can take days or weeks to "display" their full potential.
Step 6. Insulate with other materials
Damping compound is one of the best multi-purpose silencers, but there are many other insulating materials.
- Fiberglass is cheap and quite effective.
- Foam insulation is a poor sound absorber. Its main benefit is as a thermal insulator.
Step 7. Fill in the gaps with acoustic putty
Even small cracks and gaps between materials can reduce soundproofing. Special acoustic putty (also sold as acoustic sealer) can fill these gaps with an elastic, soundproof material. Fill in any gaps, as well as creases across walls and windows. Pay attention to the following:
- Water-based putty is easier to clean. If using a solution-based putty, check the packaging to make sure it is not harmful to your materials.
- If the putty doesn't match the color of the walls, choose a putty that can be painted over after applying.
- Consider using regular putty to fill in small gaps, as acoustic putty is more difficult to work with.
Step 8. Make the floor and ceiling soundproof
Floors and ceilings can be soundproofed using the same system used for walls. Most often, homeowners add an additional layer (or two) of drywall, with dampening glue in the middle. As a simple extra step, cover the floor with a dampening mat, then lay a rug over it.
- You don't need to soundproof the floor if there's no space underneath.
- Ceilings made of heavy concrete will not benefit much from adding a lot of drywall and dampening compounds. Instead, add a layer of drywall with air gaps in between, or fill the gaps with fiberglass insulation.
Step 9. Install the soundproof panel
If the soundproofing in the finished space is not strong enough, you can also use acoustic panels. Cheaper options are available, but the more expensive panels will certainly be more effective.
Be sure to attach this material to a wallboard or other sturdy structure
Step 10. Done
Tips
- Replace ceilings made of hard cellulose tiles. These tiles usually reflect sound.
- Putty the gaps around the holes used for lamps, etc. as well as on the periphery of the ceiling.
Warning
- Making or major changes to walls, floors and ceilings should only be carried out under the supervision of an experienced person.
- The standard STC soundproof grading system is not always useful. This rating system does not take into account any frequencies below 125 Hertz, which include sounds of music, traffic, airplanes and construction.
