4 Ways to Grow an Apple Tree from Seed

2024 Author: Jason Gerald | [email protected]. Last modified: 2023-12-16 10:50

Ever wondered if you could easily take the seeds from that delicious apple you just ate and plant them in your yard? Well, the answer is, yes you can! However, growing apples from seed requires effort, planning, and patience. Look down to Step 1 to learn how you can grow your own apple tree from seed! Although this may take a while!

Step

Method 1 of 4: Winter Simulation

In order for seeds to germinate, they need cool temperatures as if they were in real winter. Because of this need, you will have to simulate winter using your refrigerator.

Step 1. Collect two kinds of seeds

Apple trees must be planted in pairs to bear fruit - apple trees do not self-pollinate, so they need a different type of apple tree to pollinate. You can take the seeds from the apples you eat, or buy apple seeds at the store. Keep in mind that growing an apple tree from the seeds you have collected does not necessarily guarantee that the tree produced from these seeds will bear fruit. Try to select or purchase apple tree seedlings that will grow well in your climate zone or your tree may die once planted outside.

It is better to buy a sapling from a nursery than to grow an apple tree from seed. To learn how to move saplings, click here.
When trying to grow an apple tree from seed, you should also keep in mind that the resulting tree will not be a stunted tree (meaning that it will grow to a maximum height of about 9.1 meters). If you think you have enough room in your yard for this tree size, great! You should also keep in mind that a tree planted from seed can take 8 to 10 years to bear fruit, while a transplanted sapling will produce fruit in a much faster time.

Step 2. Lay your seeds out to dry

Once you have removed the seeds from the fruit and have removed any bits of fruit adhering to the seeds, you should place the seeds out to dry. This means simply blow-drying it until the outer shell is not damp.

Step 3. Cover your seeds with a wet tissue

Place the tissue and seeds in a resealable plastic bag, jar with lid, or Tupperware box. Whatever your container, make sure it can be tightly closed.

You can also use moist peat instead of paper towels if you have peat soil nearby

Step 4. Place your seeds in the refrigerator

The seeds require a period of exposure to cold temperatures called "after-ripening". It basically simulates winter. During this time, the seed will begin to grow roots and shoots. The seeds need to be left there for eight weeks or more. Keep the temperature of the seeds, store at an ambient temperature of 4.4 to 10ºC, with the optimal temperature between 4.4 to 5ºC.

If possible, do this during true winter so that when you take the seeds out of the refrigerator, the planting period will correspond to true winter. Planting your sprouts in early spring after the last winter will give the best results

Step 5. Check each seed frequently to make sure the tissue remains wet

After eight weeks have elapsed, your seeds should have sprouted and will have developed tiny roots that will emerge from the bottom of the seed. When your seeds have sprouted, remove them from the refrigerator.

Method 2 of 4: Transferring the Shoots to a Pot

Step 1. Prepare the pot and soil

Your seeds need to be planted in small pots. Use a good potting mix. Apple seeds grow best in soil with a neutral pH level. Fill the pot with soil and make a hollow in the soil that is two or three times the size of the germinating seed.

Do not add any fertilizer. This is not necessary, although you can add mulch or compost if you want to give the seedlings an extra boost

Step 2. Place the seeds in the hollow of the soil

Be sure to handle your germinating seeds very gently, as their roots are very delicate. Put the seeds in the soil and then cover them, making sure to pat the soil gently. Immediately water the seeds so that the soil that settles around the seeds remains moist.

Step 3. Put the pot at room temperature

While growing in pots, seeds and soil should be kept at or slightly higher than room temperature. Seeds need to have access to sunlight for a good part of the day, so placing them in a window that gets sunlight for a few days is a good idea.

Step 4. Monitor the growth of your seedlings

A few weeks after planting, your seedlings should start to develop tiny leaves. From there they will grow taller and stronger. Keep them in pots until they look strong and any risk of freezing has passed. If you think your seedlings are growing beyond their pots, move them to larger pots and continue to water every day.

Method 3 of 4: Plant Your Sapling Outside

Step 1. Choose a location for your tree

There are several factors that should determine where you plant your tree.. This includes sunlight, soil, and space.

Sunlight: Apple trees need full sun. This means the apple tree should get six hours or more of direct sunlight each day. If possible, plant your tree facing east or on a slope that faces north.
Soil: Apple trees do not like wet feet. That means they should be planted in soil that will retain moisture but absorb well. The soil should be moderately rich and have a relatively neutral pH level.
Space: Since you are growing your tree from seed, it will grow to its full size (which means it can reach a height of 6.1 to 9.1 meters). You will need to make sure that the tree has enough room for the growth of the root system. Plan to plant your tree at least 4.5 meters from other trees, especially if you are planting two apple trees in a row.

Step 2. Know when conditions are right for transfer

Once your little tree is big enough and no one will step on it or think it's a weed, move it carefully without cutting any roots. The best time of year to plant depends on your location -- in Zone 8 and warmer areas, planting in the fall can work well. If you live anywhere other than Zone 8, plant in the spring after the threat of frost has passed.

Step 3. Remove any weeds at a diameter of 1.2 meters from the planting site

Dig a hole twice the diameter or root system of your sapling. Make sure the hole is approximately two meters deep. After you make the hole, try loosening the soil against the wall of the hole -- this will help the roots of your tree to penetrate the soil.

Step 4. Move your sapling

Spread out the roots of your tree carefully so they don't tangle or gather in the hole you've dug. Start changing the soil around the roots. Once you've covered the roots, pat the soil vigorously to remove any air gaps that might be around the roots. Fill the rest of the hole with loose soil.

Again do not add any fertilizer or unaged compost to the soil around your tree. Fertilizers can literally 'burn' the roots of your saplings

Step 5. Water the tree well to remove any air gaps

After you water your tree, spread mulch to help your sapling retain moisture. Straw, dry wheat stalks, or organic wood shavings work well as apple tree mulch. Mulch should be spread over three feet around the tree. Doing this will help retain moisture and prevent the grass from growing and competing with your sapling roots for water and nutrients.

Method 4 of 4: Taking Care of Your Tree

Step 1. Water your tree

While the tree is still short (approximately 15 cm to 20.5 cm in height) the tree should be watered every 10 to 12 days. As the tree grows, however, you can reduce watering, as long as the soil continues to remain moist (but not soggy). As they grow, you will need to water them less frequently. However, in summer, water your tree every 1-2 weeks.

During other times of the year, you can let nature do the rest, unless you live in a very dry area. If this is the case, keep in mind that an equivalent of 2, 5 or 5 cm of water in a week is ideal for the first year. Make sure you provide good watering, not just sprinkling

Step 2. Get Rid of Bullies

If you live in an area with deer, you should protect your saplings. Deer really like to trace the shoots on apple trees, in some cases they will even damage the trunk. Give an iron fence slightly larger than the tree, securing it to guard it, will work in most cases; in areas of low pressure, spraying trees with a purchased or homemade spray may also be effective.

Keep rabbits and mice away by placing a short wire fence around the base of the tree.
Insect spray. You may find yourself in a battle with insects that cause fruit to get sick. You can purchase a spray at your local nursery or supply store to ward off these insects.
Fight apple maggots. This is one of the most common plagues for apple trees. Hang one or two baseball-sized red balls on your tree branch in June. Cover the ball with an adhesive such as Tangle Trap, which can be purchased at garden supply stores.

Step 3. Fertilize your tree when it is older

Your apple tree should be fertilized every spring. Fertilize the tree after the last snow has melted (if you get snow) but before the tree begins to sprout. You should use a fertilizer with a nitrogen and oxide (NPK) content of 10-10-10. You should place the fertilizer under the tree canopy and should put a quarter kilogram for every 2.5 cm diameter of the tree trunk.

Don't use "weed-and-feed" fertilizers -- this combination of fertilizers can damage apple trees

Step 4. Postpone pruning saplings

Prune as little as possible during the first few years, so you don't delay fruiting. You should prune any dead or diseased branches. Apple trees need to grow big before they start to bear fruit -- that's how they reproduce -- so let them grow until they start to bear fruit.

Clear your saplings of misplaced shoots before they have a chance to grow into branches you'll just have to prune later

Step 5. Train Your Tree

This may sound strange, but the branches of your tree need to be shaped to maximize the fruit the tree produces. Any branch that has an angle of 35 degrees or less from the trunk needs to be trained in a better angle (any angle greater than 35 degrees from the trunk). Bend the trunk down so that it is almost horizontal and tie it to a post in the ground or lower tree branches with string. Let it bond for a few weeks.

Step 6. Prune Excess Fruit

Producing too much fruit can be really bad for your tree -- too much fruit can weigh down the branches and reduce the quality of the apples they produce. You should trim the number of fruits so that there are only one or two apples per group, and so that the apples are about 15 to 21 centimeters apart. You'll be glad you did this when you finally get to nibble on the delicious fruit from your tree.

Step 7. Prune mature trees annually

Once your tree bears fruit and is filled, you will need to prune it annually. Do this when the tree is dormant. Cut the stems that grow upward vigorously (this is usually found in the higher parts of the tree). You'll need to prune branches that are dead, diseased, or crushed, as well as branches that are growing toward the tree or crossing one another.

Cut any branches that are growing very low -- in general, your tree's branches should start growing at about 4 inches or more off the ground.
You should also remove weak branches, which generally grow on the underside of the branches.

Tips

Place only one seed in the pot, so they don't have to compete for nutrients and sunlight.
Before eating the fruit, check the apple for damage and cuts.
Store in pots to about 40-60 cm high.
Don't let the tree dry out, or it may die.
You may want to keep an eye on the rainfall in your area and look after the trees. If the leaves are starting to wilt, and it shouldn't rain for a while, you'll need to water them with your hose.
Check your local area for a newsletter on general apple care, or pick up one of the many good books available at your local library.