Wet soil definitely causes discomfort and causes dirt. Soil that is too moist can cause plants to die, crop failure, and cause stability problems to surrounding structures. The best way to dry the soil on a large scale is to aerate it thoroughly and add natural soil enhancers that don't interfere with the soil's composition and natural pH level. However, if you don't have a lot of time, a chemical organic desiccant supplement given in bulk, such as agricultural lime, can also solve this problem.
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Method 1 of 3: Aerate the Soil in the Lawn or Garden
Step 1. Remove large objects that are on the ground
Go around the area you want to dry, then pick up or remove any shrubs, rocks, and other objects that are on the ground. This cleaning exposes the soil to air and sunlight. Both of these are natural drying agents for wet soils.
- It is very important to get rid of plant materials that can absorb fluids. Some objects, such as fallen leaves, old mulch, and rotting tree trunks will retain water, which keeps the soil moist.
- If these ingredients are not removed first, you run the risk of accidentally mixing them with the soil (when turning the soil), making the problem worse.
- You can increase air circulation and sun exposure by cutting out sources of shade, such as overgrown shrubs and tree branches with heavy leaves.
Step 2. Allow the stagnant water to dry on its own
Aeration can only dry the soil if the conditions are not saturated with water. If there is a puddle or buildup of water on the surface of the soil, allow the puddle to dry on its own, or use another faster method, such as adding organic soil desiccant or agricultural lime.
- A sign that the soil is ready to aerate is when it feels firm to the touch. The soil may still be wet, but not so soft that it crumbles easily.
- As already explained, proper exposure to air and sunlight is the key to drying wet soil quickly. For this reason, it's best to do this project when the soil is clean and dry, when it's no longer raining and creating puddles.
Step 3. Use a suitable aeration device for the land area
Step aerators (soil aerators by being pushed and stepped on) are very suitable for small and separated land. Some other options include a long-toothed garden fork, a rake, and an aerating shoe (a shoe with a pointed metal bottom). All of the above tools are inexpensive, intuitive, and easy to maintain and clean.
If you have to handle large areas of land, we recommend using a rotary aerator machine, either manual or motorized
Tip:
You can also use a tow aerator that can be attached to the back of a lawn tractor or other similar vehicle to tackle large areas of land with less effort and time.
Step 4. Remove the soil surface using an aeration tool
Start at one corner of the ground and run the tool to the other end. Next, turn around and return in the opposite direction, running the aeration tool to dislodge any untreated soil. Continue to do this until all the land has been handled. When you do this, the fork of the aerator will open many small holes in the soil, allowing more air and sunlight to enter.
- How to use a step aerator: plug the fork into the ground at an angle of 90 degrees, then press the tool with one foot while giving full body weight on it until it goes into the ground.
- To use a harrow or garden fork, stick the fork into the ground like a lance, then wiggle the long handle back and forth to pry up the soil.
- If using aerated shoes, tie the shoes to the feet and walk back and forth throughout the area of land. This method also allows you to exercise, even if only a little.
- For an aerator machine, you can push it across the land surface like when using a lawn mower. However, make sure you have read the manufacturer's manual so that the tool can be used effectively and safely.
Step 5. Keep the aerated soil clean for the next few days
As soon as the aeration is complete, a collection of debris remains that is not reached by the aerator. Next, try to pick up rocks, pieces of plant branches, rotting plant parts, and other objects while the elements are doing their job. As long as the weather remains clear, you can cultivate the soil in about a week.
By removing large lumps of soil, the soil will have room to expand, which in turn will increase its ability to drain water properly
Method 2 of 3: Adding Dryer to Garden Soil
Step 1. Remove obstacles that can complicate your work
Start by removing any loose bushes, leaves, old mulch, and other solid and absorbent materials. These materials can block the exposure of air and sunlight into the soil below. As a result, the soil will not be able to dry naturally and stay wet for a long time.
If you don't remove them, these obstructions can sink into the soil after you add the fixing agent, which actually makes the soil stronger at retaining water
Step 2. Allow the soil to dry overnight
Once cleared of obstructions, let the soil sit for about 8 to 12 hours. This is to give the air and sunlight time to do their job on the soil before you tackle it. You don't need to wait until the soil is completely dry because this is not the goal. Just make sure all the standing water starts to recede.
- Moisture makes the soil heavier, so it will be easier for you to work with it when the soil is a little dry.
- If you don't have much time, it's okay to work the soil when it's a bit wet. Understand that you have to work harder in these conditions.
Step 3. Spread 5–8 cm of gravel on the ground
Pour one or more pea-sized bags of gravel over the soil, then use a hoe/shovel or rake to spread it evenly. Mixing a small amount of gravel into the soil creates a non-absorbent space between the individual particles, allowing air to enter and reducing the amount of water the soil retains.
- You can find pea-sized gravel at a gardening, houseplant, or construction store.
- You can also use sand instead of gravel, as long as the soil you're working with is not clay. Mixing sand into wet clay can make it hard as concrete.
Step 4. Add a 5–8 cm thick layer of organic soil enhancer
Add a top layer of soil, compost, humus, or other fertile material directly on top of the gravel. Spread the material evenly over the soil you are working on. You are now ready to mix two layers of the fixing agent into the soil.
- When you add gravel or sand to the soil, you increase the amount of space occupied by the infertile component. The organic soil amendment you use will offset this effect by increasing the overall fertility of the soil.
- You can skip this step if you don't plan to plant anything in the soil you're going to dry.
Tip:
The general rule for dealing with clay soils is to use 80 cubic cm of soil amendment for every 9 m2 of land. The amount of enriching agent can be reduced if the soil you treat naturally dries out easily.
Step 5. Mix the fixing agent with the soil using a hoe, shovel, or rake
Use the utensil to thoroughly mix the soil over the area you want to drain. When you do this, the fixing agent will blend into the wet soil. For best results, insert the fixing material to a depth of at least 20–23 cm, making sure that you don't leave any pockets or lumps of compacted soil behind.
After the wet soil is set up, the water remaining on the top of the soil will drain more quickly than usual. You shouldn't have any problems retaining water for a few weeks or months after this
Method 3 of 3: Dry Soil Quickly Using Agricultural Lime
Step 1. Prepare one or more bags of quicklime or calcium hydroxide (hydrated lime)
There are several types of agricultural lime, each with a different chemical composition and application method. To dry out saturated soil, you should use quicklime or calcium hydroxide. Both of these products can be found in agricultural stores or building stores.
- This supplement, known as "tohor lime" is actually calcium oxide, while hydrated lime is better known as calcium hydroxide. Both products have the same function, but quicklime usually gives a faster effect.
- Do not use ordinary agricultural lime. This type of lime is only made of crushed limestone so its effectiveness is the same as sand or gravel.
Step 2. Put on gardening gloves before starting work
Use gloves made of thick, resilient, layered, and without holes or tears. Both quicklime and calcium hydroxide can cause severe chemical burns if they come into contact with the skin.
- When doing this, it's a good idea to wear a face mask to prevent inhalation of irritant dust.
- You should also wear long sleeves. Be careful not to let the chalk touch exposed skin, especially when the skin is damp or wet.
Step 3. Spread the lime on the soil surface at least 5 cm thick
You can use a shovel or hand to spread the chalk where you want it. If the area being handled is large and open, for example a construction site that has been cleared, you should use a wheelbarrow or bulk truck (a kind of truck for casting). Spread the chalk evenly over the area you want to dry.
- Try to spread lime with an equal thickness over the entire treated area.
- If needed, you can apply more lime in locations where there is standing water or soil with a high silt content.
Step 4. Let the chalk sit for about 1-2 hours before you continue the process
During this time, the lime will evaporate the water on the surface of the soil. This will be faster and more effective than drying methods with aeration systems or soil amendments.
Step 5. Use a hoe, shovel, or rake to work the lime into the soil
Hoe, turn, and dig through the wet soil to dismantle it and incorporate any lime particles that are still above the surface. Try to mix the lime to a depth of at least 15 cm. The deeper you add the lime, the faster and more extensive the soil will dry out.
- If the soil is completely saturated with water, you may need to add lime to a depth of 25–30 cm below the soil surface.
- You will notice a significant difference in soil moisture within about 1 hour of lime application.
Warning:
Keep in mind that adding lime to the soil will increase the pH level, which will make it more alkaline. This can have a negative impact on plant growth if you plan to use the land to plant trees or edible plants.
Step 6. Compact the soil if you want to build a building on it
Run a lawn roller (pull/push cylinder) or hand tamper (manual soil compactor) over the entire soil surface, continuously pressing the soil until it feels firm. In addition to making the area more stable, this compaction will also help hold the lime in the soil. Thanks to this process, the soil will remain dry even in heavy rains.
- You can also walk back and forth on the treated ground (if it's small) to get the same effect, without having to use any tools.
- If you want to compact large areas of soil efficiently, you may need to use an industrial scale device, such as a sheep foot compactor (a type of tractor) or a wheel roller (a cylindrical vehicle for paving roads).
