For owners of brown hair, hair lightening is not difficult to do. However, if you have very dark brown or black hair, the perfect platinum blonde or white color will be very difficult to pull off. Luckily, thanks to a little mix of lightening and toner, you can achieve the perfect blonde.
Step
Part 1 of 3: Doing Careful Planning
Step 1. Check if your hair is healthy enough to lighten
You will be using a lot of bleach so the damage done to your hair is also significant. Some stylists will not lighten hair that has already been dyed or processed. Check with your hair stylist first.
Step 2. Set aside enough time
Lightening dark hair to blonde, especially platinum or white blonde, requires a lightening process several times with a few days in between. Don't expect to get the perfect blonde instantly. This process needs to be done gradually.
Since in the intermediate stages your hair will have a tinge of orange, copper, and other non-blond colors, be prepared to balance or cover all three colors with hats and other hair accessories
Step 3. Choose the right brightener
There are several options for dyeing your hair, and you'll need to choose the bleach that works best for your hair color.
- Look for a hair lightening kit, which consists of a lightening powder and liquid peroxide. This powerful chemical is more suitable for dark hair.
- Peroxide is available in several strengths, ranging from volume 10 to volume 40. Opt for volume 30 peroxide. Note that volume 40 is too strong for normal lightening as it can burn the scalp. This volume is only used for the ends of dark hair so it doesn't touch the skin.
Step 4. Do a strand test before starting
This step is very important because it determines how long you need to let the dye sit in your hair to get the color you want. Always read and follow the strand test instructions that come with the lightening kit. In general, the steps are as follows:
- Cut a few strands of hair from an inconspicuous place at the back of your head. Tie these strands of hair with string or tape at one end.
- Mix a small amount of lightening powder and liquid peroxide according to the manufacturer's instructions.
- Dip the strands in the bleach mixture until fully colored.
- Set a timer or monitor the length of time elapsed during the test.
- Every five minutes, check the strands by wiping the bleach with an old cloth.
- Give back your bleach and repeat the process until the desired blonde color is obtained. Now you know how long the bleach needs to be left on the hair.
Step 5. Wet your hair with coconut oil overnight
Before lightening your hair, massage virgin coconut oil into your hair and scalp. Coconut oil will help protect your hair from excessive damage caused by the lightening process. Leave it for 14 hours for best results. You don't need to rinse off the oil before the lightening begins.
To protect your hair from oil stains, wrap a towel around your hair, or braid your hair and put on a shower cap
Part 2 of 3: Brighten Hair
Step 1. If you have long hair, divide it into four sections
Use the pointed tip of the paint brush to make sections from the center of your forehead to the nape of your neck. Next, divide each section in half from the tips of the ears to the crown of the head. Use pins or non-metallic clips to secure all four sections of your hair.
Step 2. Protect your skin, eyes and clothes
Apply a thin layer of petrolatum jelly on your forehead, ears and neck. Wear plastic gloves and protect your eyes with safety glasses. Also, wear old clothes and lay mats on your floor so they don't get dirty from dripping hair.
Step 3. Mix in the bleach
Put equal amounts of bleach and developer powder in a non-metallic bowl. Stir until it forms a cream.
Step 4. Apply the mixture
Use a paint brush and apply the brightening mixture, starting 1 cm from your scalp.
- First, work a thin section of the back quarter, making sure the hair is completely colored before moving on to the next step. Pinch the section back so it doesn't move, then move on to the next section.
- Work the two parts in the back first, then work the parts in the front.
- Apply in the direction of hair growth (from root to tip).
- Work as fast as possible. We recommend that the hair is lightened at the same time so that the results look even.
- Once your hair is colored, put on your shower cap.
Step 5. Monitor your work
Check every 10 minutes until the desired amount is reached..
- Check the color by wiping the bleach from a small section of hair with an old cloth. If you want to let it sit longer, don't forget to reapply the bleach to this area first.
- It helps if you set a timer to ensure consistency.
Step 6. Consider applying heat with a hairdryer to speed up the process
However, it should be noted that the heating process will increase the damage to the hair. So don't do it if you're not in a hurry.
This is not recommended if you are lightening your hair for the first time, when you are required to know the length of the lightening process by itself. If you want to repeat the process, feel free to speed it up by using heat
Step 7. After 10-20 minutes, apply the lightener to the hair roots
The hair at the roots is processed faster than the rest of the hair due to the heat from the scalp so the lightener will work faster. Therefore, it is best to work on the roots towards the end of the enlightenment process. Use the same division technique as above, this time applying the lightening mixture only at the roots.
Step 8. Rinse off your brightener
After your hair is pale yellow, or you have left the product in your hair for the maximum amount of time the manufacturer allows, rinse any bleach from your hair with warm water.
- Give a little shampoo, preferably using a special shampoo for lightened hair. For example, a shampoo containing purple toner helps balance out the striking yellow color.
- Dry your hair with a towel and style as usual. If you can, avoid using hot styling tools as this can increase stress and damage your hair.
Step 9. Once your hair is dry, assess the results
The true results of hair lightening can only be seen after the hair is completely dry. Don't forget, it takes at least 2-3 sessions a month to turn dark hair into pale blonde or white.
Step 10. Rest your hair for 2-3 weeks between sessions
The bleach is very harsh on the hair. Refrain from lightening your hair again if you don't like the results. It's a good idea to use a toner after each session (see below) to balance out your color as it can gradually change hair color from dark to pale.
Part 3 of 3: Using Toner on Hair
Step 1. Select toner
This step is crucial for obtaining perfect and balanced results. The bleach removes the color from the hair pigment, and ultimately leaves a yellow tinge, which is the natural color of keratin or hair protein. This yellow color is not our goal. This is where toner comes into play as it helps balance out unwanted colours, adds subtle nuances to your hair color and helps you achieve the blonde hue you want.
- Dark hair usually has a red or orange undertone so lightening tends to turn the hair orange. Blue toner will balance the orange, violet toner will balance the orange-yellow. In short, use toners that are opposite colors on the color wheel to neutralize hair color.
- For white hair, choose a toner that is specifically for white hair. You can't get white with just bleach and you have to use toner.
- If you don't know which toner to choose, try asking a professional at the store for advice, or consulting a hair stylist.
Step 2. Prepare and apply toner
The following is a general guide to using toner, but make sure you follow the toner manufacturer's instructions.
- Mix 1/3 toner and 2/3 developer volume 10 or 20. If you have black hair, consider using volume 40. However, keep in mind that volume 40 is very strong, and you can burn your skin badly if you touch it. Seek emergency help immediately if you experience a chemical burn!
- Apply toner from root to tip, using the same division technique as above for enlightenment.
- Many toners only take 10 minutes to work, so apply them as quickly as possible and keep track of your time.
- Check your work every 5-10 minutes using the strand test technique described above.
- Be careful not to apply too much toner on white hair as the result can be yellowish or gray.
Step 3. Rinse your hair
Use shampoo and conditioner, then style as usual.
Don't forget to throw away all the brightener and toner mixture when you're done
Tips
- Do not process further once your hair has reached the pale yellow stage.
- If your hair is very short, consider using strong highlights instead of lightening. Thus, you can avoid the risk of burning your scalp.
- It's best to lighten your hair before washing it.
- It helps to have someone help you, especially if this is your first time lightening your hair. Try asking friends or family to help you achieve an even hair color throughout your hair.
- Color glosses, toning shampoos, and hair color treatment shampoos can help maintain the balance and shine of your blonde hair.
- Deep conditioning your hair between lightening sessions to restore the natural oils and proteins of the hair.
- Minimize the use of shampoo between treatments as shampoo strips hair of all the oil it needs to keep it soft and protected.
- Minimize the use of styling tools that use heat (hair dryers, straightening irons, curling irons), if possible. These tools add stress to already weakened hair.
- Do a coconut or argan oil treatment every two weeks to maintain lightened hair.
- Do not apply heat directly to bleached hair. Once dry, the brightener stops working. Use a plastic bag, shower cap, or even foil to cover your hair. THEN use a hairdryer on a LOW setting to speed up the process while your hair is covered.
Warning
- DO NOT use bleach to paint eyebrows or eyelashes.
- Developer volume 40 is tough. Use only when needed and never mix volume 40 with toner.
- Do not apply bleach directly to the scalp.
- Read and follow the instructions included in the product package very carefully.
- Full lightening in one day is not recommended as it is very damaging to the hair.
- If you start to experience a burning sensation or irritation during the process, rinse your hair immediately and consult a doctor.
