A dull ax will make your work ineffective. In addition, using a blunt ax is also dangerous because the blade of the ax will bounce off the wood, instead of sticking and cutting it. Sharpening an ax may be a bit of a tedious job, but you'll save a lot of time later if you work with a sharp blade.
Step
Part 1 of 2: Filing Blunt Ax
Step 1. Protect your hands and face
Take these precautions so that you don't injure yourself when sharpening your axe:
- Wear thick leather gloves.
- If the file doesn't have a finger guard, make an incision in a piece of skin and attach it to the file.
- Wear protective eyewear to protect your eyes from metal dust.
- You can also use a protective mask to sharpen the ax manually. It is recommended to use a respirator if you work with power tools (see the Tips section).
Step 2. Clean and polish the ax head
If you see rust on the axe, use a rust removal product or steel wool to clean it. If you want to make the ax more shiny, do further polishing. It's not hard to do, you just need to follow these tips:
- Use a coarse aluminum oxide or silicon carbide sandpaper. Rub the ax head with steady pressure, starting from the tip to the tip of the axe.
- Repeat the same process with a finer sandpaper.
- To get a satisfactory polishing result, repeat the sanding process with very fine sandpaper. After that you can apply metal polish (the liquid used to polish metal) using a cloth. Maybe you can wait for this process to finish sharpening the axe.
Step 3. Clamp the ax with a special tool
Clamp the ax horizontally to ease the filing process, or vertically for a flatter blade because it allows you to alternate between filings on both sides. If you're clamping the ax horizontally, it's a good idea to tilt the ax at an angle to the bevel (usually between 20 or 30 degrees) so that you can hold the file parallel to the table. This makes it easier for you to estimate the exact angle rather than relying on sight alone.
Step 4. Use a bastard file (coarse-toothed file)
A rough, single-cut, slightly tapered 25-30 cm bastard file is a good choice for sharpening most types of axes. The shorter bastard files don't have the same tooth density, and that means the file length isn't determined by convenience alone. You can use a shorter file to sharpen a small axe.
Clean clogged teeth with a file brush. If you're using a new file, rub some fine chalk over the surface to prevent deposits from accumulating between your teeth
Step 5. Check the ax bevel
Most axes have a slightly convex edge, about 20-30 degrees. A wider, more convex edge is better suited for cutting hard or frozen wood because the bend pushes the wood outward to protect the edges. The carving ax has a straight and triangular tip. Determine the shape of your ax before starting the sharpening process, and watch carefully as the sharpness begins to form. In most cases, you'll need to align with the bevel you're using while following the curve of the ax blade to sharpen the blade evenly.
Step 6. File the ax blade in a steady motion
Hold the handle of the file in the palm of your dominant hand, with your thumb resting on it. Wrap the fingers of the other hand around the end of the file. You should stand with one leg in front so that you can use your shoulder to push the file. To prevent the file from vibrating back and forth, use the hand in front of you to guide, then proceed slowly by pushing the handle at the end of the movement.
Step 7. Perform repeated filings along the curved area
Use a steady motion as you push the file all the way to the edge. Make a fan-shaped curve of the ax blade by varying the starting point of the movement: start near the edge at the top of the ax head, or about 5-7 cm in the middle, and work your way down to the edge on the underside of the ax head.
- Do not touch the blade of the ax when pulling the file to its previous position as this will not sharpen the ax and can actually damage the file.
- Use a file brush or wire brush to remove any metal particles that have accumulated on the surface of the file.
Step 8. Switch to the other side once you feel the burr
Once you feel the presence of a burr on the unfiled side, flip the ax and repeat the same steps on the other side of the ax blade. Repeat until you feel the burr again on the first side.
By turning the sides of the ax frequently throughout the filing process, you will get a flatter blade
Step 9. Measure the edges with a bevel gauge
This tool, which is also called a sliding bevel, consists of two arms that are joined together by hinges and can be tightened at any angle using bolts. You can easily make this tool yourself using leftover wood. Mount the bevel gauge at the desired angle using a protractor (usually at an angle of about 25 degrees or so), then attach it to the edge of the axe. If the angle doesn't fit, do the filing again to scrape off the parts you don't need.
Part 2 of 2: Sharpening the Ax
Step 1. Use a whetstone to sharpen the ax blade
Apply sharpening oil or sewing machine oil to the very edge of the blade, then use the rough tip of a whetstone to rub it in a circular motion. Sharpen both sides of the ax blade alternately to scrape the burr off each side until it's barely left. A burr is a slightly rough, hairy edge, or a very thin, curved edge. Use your finger to feel the edges and check the shape.
A “waterstone” whetstone made of clay or sandstone can sharpen metal faster, but it also wears out faster. This stone requires water, not oil, to remove metal particles
Step 2. Use a fine whetstone or leather strop to sharpen the ax (optional)
To completely remove hairy edges, use the same grinding process with a fine whetstone, or rub it against a leather grinder. A perfectly sharpened ax blade won't reflect light, a few minor scratches shouldn't be a problem.
- Most sharpening stones have two sides, one rough and the other smooth. The whetstone model with a finger groove in the middle is safer to use.
- Repeat the sharpening process (at least using the rough side) each time you want to use the ax.
Step 3. Protect the ax blade from rust
Apply light engine oil to the blade of the ax, then rub the beeswax and oil mixture together. This process will be more effective if the steel is warm.
Tips
- If you're sharpening a double-bladed axe, try to make one end slightly thicker and more curved than the other. Use this blade to cut harder, coarser wood.
- If the ax is very blunt, use the grinder to sharpen the edge of the blade before filing while turning the grinder toward you, toward the edge. This job is much more difficult. If you make a mistake, you will incur heavy losses and the increase in heat can reduce the hardness and make the steel blue and soft. For this reason, it is better to use a pedal-operated grinder as it is safer.
Warning
- The ax for splitting wood (splitting ax) is deliberately blunt for the safety of the user.
- Replace the ax handle if you see cracks or defects in the wood.
