Do you have a cool skein of yarn that you really want to make a sock into? Let's try the steps below.
You'll need to know how to do the top stitch, bottom stitch, start stitch, and cover stitch. This pattern will start from the toes up. This pattern will also require a double-pointed needle.
Step
Step 1. Select the yarn you want to use
Be aware that threads that are too thick will result in unwearable socks – although you can use them as house slippers!
Step 2. Choose a double-ended needle that fits your thread
This sock pattern is symmetrical, and you'll need five needles: four to hold the sock, and one loose needle to work it.
Step 3. Try this initial stitch, meaning you won't have to sew the toe later
Take two needles and wrap the thread between them in a figure eight shape. Each loop will be one stitch. For small to medium socks, make eight loops on each needle, and for large socks, make ten loops.
Step 4. Take the third needle and do the top stitch in each loop on the first needle
Then take the first needle and do the top stitch on each stitch on the second needle. Now your stitches are only on the first and third needles. You can leave this stitch loose, as you will tighten it later.
Step 5. Notice how now the stitches that have been knitted on each needle are on the two double-ended needles
Later you'll get used to this initial stitch!
Step 6. Using the third needle (loose needle), stitch up 1, making 1 stitch (at the distance between the stitches)
Knit with the top stitch until half the needle distance. Place a seam marker to mark the center-back of your sock. Take a new needle and knit with the top stitch until the last stitch, then make 1 stitch and knit the last section with the top stitch as well.
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To make one stitch, position your crochet flat and find the yarn from the previous row that is between the two needles. Pull the yarn using the tip of the needle in your right hand, transfer it to the needle in your left and continue knitting as usual.
Step 7. Do the same with the second needle used for the initial stitch
Your knitting should be symmetrical and use four active and one loose needles. If you're working a large sock, you'll have six stitches on one needle, and on a smaller sock you'll have five stitches on one needle.
Step 8. Remember how to add one stitch to the second and last stitch on both sides
Knit the first row (on all four needles), and add stitches this way. For each even row, add stitches this way. Continue until you have 11 (small), 12 (medium), 13 (large) or 14 (very large) stitches on each needle.
Step 9. Knit until the sock is 4cm from the back of the heel when you try it on
(If not for your feet, ask the person's foot size before starting!)
Step 10. Start shaping the heel
Try to keep the seams at the ends tight to prevent loose holes. This method is called short row crochet.
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We'll switch to another knitting style: knitting on only two needles on one side of the stitch marker. Leave the other two needles as the front of your sock, and continue knitting in alternating rows (using the top stitch and the bottom stitch) on the back two needles of the sock to form the heel. Think of these two needles as one - you can transfer them to just one needle, as long as you can keep the knitting symmetrical.
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In the first half of forming the heel of the sock, you will need to "hold" the seams. Knit all the stitches except the last one, then move the tail yarn to the front of the knit (between the two needles). Transfer the unknitted stitch to the other needle, then move the tail thread back to the back. Turn your knitting over, and transfer the unknitted stitches to the empty needle-then knit with the bottom stitch as usual. As a result, the stitches that have been knitted earlier will look like they are "lost", and look like they are wrapped in thread. This stitch is "held" until it's time to knit again. This stitch will stay on the needle, and "will always have the same number of stitches on the needle." '
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Knit the rest of the row with the bottom stitch except for the last stitch, "wrap" it the same way and leave it uncrocheted.
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Flip the crochet and knit with the top stitch until there are two stitches left on the needle (the one stitch that was left). Make the penultimate stitch as before, and turn your knitting over. Knit with the bottom stitch for all rows up to the last two stitches, then make the penultimate stitch as before, and turn your knitting over.
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In each row, wrap the last stitch until you have seven stitches on each side. The last row of this process is knitting with the bottom stitch, followed by looping the seventh stitch.
- To complete the second half of the heel of your sock, start picking up the stitches one at a time. Knit with the top stitch of one row until it meets the first loop stitch, then knit the stitch. Rewind the next stitch. Flip your crochet and start knitting with the bottom stitch. This stitch is "active" again.
- At the end of each row, pick up and "reactivate" the stitches, knitting the loop together with the stitches. Each time you do, wind the inactive stitch the same way you "hold" the stitch.
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When you've finished activating all the stitches, you'll have a heel on your knit. The last row of knitting is done with the bottom stitch, and all stitches are active again.
Step 11. Arrange your needles in the starting position, with four symmetrical needles and one loose needle
Knit with the top stitch until you reach the point where the heel of the sock is reunited with the body of the sock.
If you keep going, you'll find a gaping hole that might irritate you at the ankle, exactly where the heel meets the body of the sock. The next step will prevent this
Step 12. Continue knitting on all four needles as before you made the heel
When you get to the heel that joins the body of the sock, take the thread between the needles and make a new stitch. In the next round, knit this stitch with the top stitch along with the stitches next to it. This seam prevents holes. Do the same on the other side of the heel.
Step 13. Continue knitting until 2.5 cm remains from the top, and start k2p2 (2 top stitches, 2 bottom stitches) for ribbing
Ribbing prevents the top of the sock from curling up – although if you want to make house slippers with a curled fairy shoe effect or something, skip this step!