Pruning can stimulate growth, increase fruit production, and make the tree beautiful. Do pruning when the tree is dormant (inactive). Remove diseased, dead, or damaged tree branches. Prevent the growth of trees that have several trunks and branches pointing inward. Try to ensure that the fruit tree gets sufficient light on all branches and do not let the branches overlap each other so that it inhibits fruit growth.
Step
Method 1 of 3: Knowing the Right Time to Prune
Step 1. Prune trees in winter (if you live in a country with 4 seasons)
Fruit trees are in a dormant state in winter (thus producing no fruit or leaves). This makes it easier for you to target which areas you want pruned and can encourage fruit production.
Winter pruning is the best course of action for most fruit trees
Step 2. Prune trees in summer (if you live in a country with 4 seasons)
Some fruit trees should be pruned in the summer, such as cherry and apricot trees. Also, summer pruning can promote branch growth, and divert the tree's energy to focus on growing the desired branch.
- However, pruning in the summer has its risks. This action can slow down the ripening process and expose the fruit to sunlight.
- Usually, untrained trees do not need pruning in the summer.
- Summer pruning is best for trees with branches that look damaged or dead, or whose leaves are drooping from too many fruit or leaves.
- Consult a botanist if you want to know whether or not your plant needs pruning in the summer. Botanists are experts who have been specially trained and know the ins and outs of plants. They can help you determine whether or not your plant needs pruning in the summer.
Step 3. Prune young trees immediately after planting
After planting, prune the main stems of young plants leaving between 60 and 75 cm high. Prune all branches pointing to the side and leave no more than two branches. This will equate the area at the top of the tree with the area in the root system.
If you want a tall tree so you can sit under it when the weather is hot, start pruning the sapling at a higher point
Step 4. Prune young trees that are not growing well
If your sapling is not growing well, do heavy pruning for the first three years. Heavy pruning in the first few years will produce less fruit at first, but the tree will be strong and productive in the long run.
Step 5. Avoid pruning healthy young trees too often
If the young tree can grow well, just let the tree continue to grow. Prune irregularly or don't trim at all.
- Irregular pruning generally has no definite definition. This action refers to pruning that is done with less frequency than usual on a mature tree. You can do the pruning every winter, or not do it at all.
- There are a number of physical signs that indicate that the sapling is ready to be pruned. Check that your tree is growing in a healthy manner, which is indicated by the formation of a strong branch skeleton. Leave the branch outline as it is, and pruning the sapling frequently.
Method 2 of 3: Selecting a Cutting Method
Step 1. Perform a heading cut to get a tree with a beautiful shape
Cut above the bud pointing outward at a 30-degree angle. This will cause the branch to grow outwards and upwards in a wineglass-like shape. If you cut a branch above a bud that is pointing inward, the branch will grow inward so that the shape of the tree will not be beautiful.
Step 2. Do pruning for thinning branches
This type of pruning is used to thin the branches so that sunlight can reach the tree trunk. Do branch thinning by pruning branches as close to the trunk as possible. Be careful not to leave any open cut marks.
Thin branches that have a diameter at least 50% smaller than the diameter of the parent branch
Step 3. Perform bench cut pruning
This type of pruning is used to space the center of the tree and remove branches and shoots that are upright and strong. To do this, choose a branch in a horizontal direction, then cut off any branches and shoots growing from above (especially those near the trunk).
Method 3 of 3: Perform Maintenance
Step 1. Use the right tools
Use sharp scissors to handle saplings that have branches about 1.5 cm or smaller in diameter. Use a pruning saw or long-handled pruning shears to trim mature trees.
If you don't have a pruner, try renting one at a garden supply store. This is a good option because you may only use it a few hours a year
Step 2. Sterilize your equipment to avoid infection
After pruning, dip the pruning tool in a solution of one part alcohol and one part water for at least 1 minute before you trim the next tree. This can prevent the spread of disease to other trees. Alternatively, you can also use a solution made from a mixture of water and a cleaning liquid such as Super Pell, Vixal, or Lysol. Mix one part cleaning fluid with 5 parts water, then immerse the trimmer for at least 1 minute.
Step 3. Decide which branches should be pruned
Always prune branches that are damaged, dead or diseased. In addition, cut the stem shoots (sucker), the new branches that grow from the base of the branch. You should also prune watersprouts, which are branches that grow upward from the stem facing outward and usually appear in spring (in countries with four seasons).
- Get rid of competing branches and grow downwards. Branches that grow downward usually do not produce much fruit.
- In general, do not cut branches growing from the trunk at an angle of about 45 degrees. Branches that grow at a position smaller or greater than the angle of inclination should be cut.
Step 4. Leave one main stem
If the main tree trunk is divided into several parallel and competing trunks, the tree will not grow optimally and will be more difficult to trim. Do pruning so that the tree cannot grow upright, except for the main trunk. Only the top buds should be left when you are pruning.
- This system is suitable for application to most trees, and should be performed on European apple, cherry, pear and blue plum trees.
- Some fruit trees (such as peaches, apricots, nectarines, and Japanese plums) do not require pruning of the main trunk.
Step 5. Make sure all the branches get adequate amounts of sunlight
Try to do a larger amount of pruning at the top than the bottom of the tree. This allows sunlight to reach normally shaded branches so they can produce fruit. Also, cut branches that are too close together. Each branch should have a distance between branches of about 15 to 30 cm. If there are a group of branches that are close together, prune the smallest branch.
Tips
- Prune apricot trees in the summer if you live in Northern California.
- Peach, kiwi, and nectarine trees can grow quickly. You'll need to prune half of the tree's growth the previous year.
- Apple, cherry, pear, and plum trees grow more slowly and only need to be pruned at about one-fifth of the tree's growth the previous year.
Warning
- Make clean cuts and leave no branch stubble.
- Improper cutting techniques can lead to disease and pests. Cuts that leave spaces that can hold water will increase the chances of stem rot and mold growth.
