Since the 1500s, women have worn petticoats or pettiskirts, underskirts and skirts to give them a stylish shape. They were especially popular in the 1950s, when circle skirts decorated with poodles were in vogue. Now, fashion lovers often wear it as a skirt, and not an underskirt. It's easy for you to stay stylish when you know how to make petticoats. Since tulle and other mesh materials can cause itching, recycle a piece of onderok as a lining and make it simple to make. Whichever you choose, this article will provide you with both methods!
Step
Method 1 of 2: Creating from Scratch
Step 1. Take your measuring tape
You will measure from the waist to the point of the length on your feet and the circumference of your waist. The first measure will determine the length of your petticoat (from waist to knee, for example) and the second will give you enough length to go around your waist (which will be very bulging).
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Once you have your waist measurement, multiply by 2 times. This is the length of the material you will need. Cut your material (tulle or crinoline) keeping these two sizes in mind.
For the purposes of this article, the tulle material will hereinafter be referred to as fabric
Step 2. Join the two cut edges
This will form the basis for your skirt. Since tulle is very rough to the touch, you will need to use a sewing machine to sew both sides of the hem, so as not to cause itching and irritation.
Start from the bottom up, leaving some opening to wear
Step 3. Sew the top of the tulle at the waistline to prepare the ruffle
There are several ways to do this and if you know of another way, you are welcome to use it. This is one way to do it:
- Use the thin thread you normally use to make buttonholes and sew a loop along the length of the fabric. You may need special shoes to do this. The thread should be retractable when you're done.
- Sew from the inside; the material will move more easily when you sew in circles if you do this on this side.
Step 4. Take a piece of thick rolled ribbon (petersham)
You will need it along your waistline, plus 2.5 – 5 cm for the cover. Give the needle at the midpoint and the quarter point. Do the same for the tulle (this is to make sure your fabric is evenly distributed along the waistline).
Step 5. Pull the thin thread earlier
This will cause wrinkling of the tulle as you pull it. Continue pulling until the tulle is wrinkled and is a length that matches your waistline. When the needles meet, you're done wrinkling them!
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Thread the needle on the ribbon to the top edge of the tulle at a different distance from before. On the last needle, wind the thread around the needle to keep the creases from shifting as you sew.
Thread the needles on the ribbon the same distance apart as they will form in the end
Step 6. Sew the thick ribbon to the tulle with a slit stitch
Since tulle is quite easy to tear, the biku stitch is a great stitch to work with. When you are finished sewing, remove all needles. Double check to see if you have anything left!
If you have excess over your seam, trim it to trim with scissors. This will reduce itching and make it less prone to tearing
Step 7. Add bisban on the inner side of your thick ribbon
This will fill in the waistline, hold it in place, and prevent your skin from getting irritated by the edges of the tulle. No need to sew it too neatly.
You can use straight stitches in this section. Sew the bisban on the top and bottom edges, with a seam of unnecessary hem on both sides
Step 8. Add hooks and hooks on both open sides
Remember the part you left open and unstitched? That's so you can hook to close it. Now is the time to add hooks and hooks and you're done!
- Any shape you have can be used. The thick ribbon and bisban are strong enough to withstand most hooks.
- If you like layered ruffles, use the same method you did for the waistline and just add a long piece of fabric at the bottom edge of the skirt.
Method 2 of 2: Using Onderok
Step 1. Take the undercarriage and measuring tape
Measure the width of the underfloor at the widest point at the hips. Multiply that size by 2.5 and add 2.5 cm. You will use this measurement as the length of the tulle or crinoline cut. It should be slightly wider than your waist to give the wrinkle room.
- Once you've done that, measure the length of the skirt you want from the onderok and divide by 4. This will be the width of the first cut (The next cut will be based on the length (also called the “base width”)). Combined, it will yield the length of your petticoat. Leave a distance of 2.5 cm between the stacked seams.
- If you haven't noticed, this guide uses onderok instead of making your own belt – it's easier this way.
Step 2. Cut your fabric
Both crinoline and tulle can be used – tulle will be more fluffy but also scratchy and rough to the touch. Either way, you'll be making three very, very long cuts that range from not very wide to slightly wider. Technical terms, if you will.
- The first cut has the basic width and length of the initial cut.
- The second cut has a size of 2 times the width of the base and the length of the initial cut.
- The third cut is 3 times the width of the base and the length of the initial cut.
Step 3. Sew each piece on the short edge
Leave a distance of 2.5 cm between the seams. You will generate 3 circles of the same length and different width.
When you finish this section, sew with a slit stitch on the long edges to prevent frayed pieces. The stitched seam is perfect for strengthening and preventing tearing
Step 4. Fit your sewing machine with the longest stitch
Make a line of stitches 0.6 cm from the long edge of the tulle strip. You can use straight stitches.
Draw a second long straight line at a distance of 0.6 cm from the first. These two parallel stitching lines are reinforcing, beautiful to look at, and help with creases
Step 5. Pull the top thread on each stitch line to crimp your petticoat pieces to the size of your onderok
The waist size that was multiplied by 2.5 is now the correct size for humans. Your fabric is now cool and wrinkled!
Step 6. Give the needle at the widest cut to the onderok
Align the top seam of the cut and the bottom seam of the onderok. Sew the pieces on the onderok with a seam distance of 1.25 cm. Again, straight stitches are allowed in this section.
Make sure you feed the needle and sew it evenly! You don't want your skirt to be lumpy in certain areas and not wrinkled in others
Step 7. Subtract 2.5 cm from the cut size width of the base width
Give the needle in the middle piece with a distance of "the size earlier" above the piece that has been sewn on the onderok. Basically, if your widest piece is 38 cm long, you will have 10 cm visible from the bottom edge of your petticoat. Sew the second piece in the same way as the first.
Giving the needle first always makes it easier and ensures that your wrinkles are even
Step 8. Pass the needle on the last piece the same distance above the middle piece
Then, sew on the onderok in the same way. Your petticoat is now ready to wear under your skirt! Your boring undergarment is now wrinkled and expanding any dress!
If it doesn't expand to you, just add a layer of wrinkle. Or three layers of wrinkle
Tips
- You can always combine these two methods to make a layered petticoat without a bottom of onderok.
- You can make the crease narrower and add layers to get a more fluffy petticoat.
- In general, you should leave the top quarter of your onderok without tulle so that the waist on your skirt fits perfectly when worn. If you're not wearing it as an underlay in another skirt, add a ruffle to the waist. Add a fabric waistband or a wide leather belt.
- If you're wearing your petticoat as an extra skirt, you can replace the tulle lining with cotton, polyester or knit ruffles. Any fabric material suitable for the manufacture of a dress or skirt can be used.
- When you're thinking about how to make a petticoat, also think about decorating your petticoat with a row of embroidery, sequins or beads on the bottom hem.
- To reduce the itching of the tulle, you can replace the bottom layer with a glass cloth.
