Are you interested in raising animals? Maybe you can consider rabbits. Rabbits are pets that have many advantages because of their sweet nature and quick adaptability to human life, including the environment where they live in apartments. To stay happy and healthy, rabbits need special care, from an ample supply of hay and vegetables, a warm and cozy nest, to time to run around at will. Sometimes you also have to bring it into the house to avoid predators such as coyotes, skunks, wolves, foxes, dogs, and cats.
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Part 1 of 5: Setting Up the Rabbit House
Step 1. Prepare a cage that is the right size for your rabbit
For rabbits weighing about 4 kg or more, you will need a cage that is about 1.5 m long, 0.75 m high and 0.75 m wide. Rabbits should be able to lie down and stretch out comfortably, and still have room for food, water, and litter boxes
- For outdoor cages, you can buy or make your own. This cage should provide a place for rabbits to nest, jump around, put food, drink, and special containers for droppings.
- Set up an exercise pen cage to give your rabbit extra space to roam.
- Large rabbits need more space for activities. Rabbits should be able to roam and lie down freely. Make sure you use a cage that is large enough for your rabbit to frolic!
- Some people use a method called "house bunny without a cage." This method gives the rabbit more freedom to explore your home, just like a dog or cat. This method is often considered the best option because rabbits have lots of places to explore and live. However, this method requires you to be more careful when it comes to safety, both for the rabbit and for the property. Therefore, this method clearly requires additional money compared to simply buying a cage.
Step 2. Find the right type of cage
Choose a cage with a wire base or a solid bed with special rabbit wire walls. Think of this cage as a "nest" for the rabbit to sleep in as well as a source of food and water for him. You need to plan for 8-12 hours for the rabbit to be out of the cage, but still inside the fence of the training cage or a special room that is safe to roam.
- Wire floors are actually not as bad as people think. The ridiculous myth that wire floors can hurt rabbits' feet is not true. Rabbit's feet can hurt on any floor surface that is not properly cared for. Even fur floors can't prevent rabbit feet from getting hurt. If the floor of the cage is well cared for, the rabbit's feet won't hurt. Wire floors provide good air ventilation, better dirt removal, and are easier to clean.
- Outdoor cages should be sturdy and able to protect the rabbit from the weather and predators. You can buy or build your own cage. What is clear, you have to make sure that the rabbit is protected from predators and the like. Also, make sure that the cage is free enough. Many people put rabbits in cramped cramped cages all day long, but this is absolutely wrong!
- Even if the cage is outdoors, don't keep the rabbit alone. Rabbits are social animals. So, immediately find friends for rabbits when they are young and immediately sterilize your rabbit.
Step 3. Line the cage with straw or fine wood shavings
There is also a bed made of recycled sawdust which is comfortable to use. Rabbits love to make comfortable nests. So, fill the bottom of the cage with natural, soft-textured materials to make your rabbit feel at home in it.
Straw, apart from being great for bedding, is an important part of a rabbit's diet. So, make sure to choose the right hay for your rabbit. Timothy straw or hay are suitable for rabbits. Avoid alfalfa hay (unless the rabbit is older than 6 months) as it is too high in calories, protein, and calcium to make it unsuitable for long-term feeding for adult rabbits
Step 4. Place the cage in a rabbit safe area
You'll want to see your beloved bunny jumping happily to and fro. Therefore, place the cage in a room that is safe for rabbits. For example, remove all electrical wires, small objects, and important furniture from the room. Also avoid putting chemicals or plants that could harm the rabbit in the room.
- Rabbits like to nibble on wires. You can buy a cable protector at the store to stop the rabbit from doing it.
- Use a baby gate or exercise pen cage so that dogs don't go in and out of the house carelessly, endangering rabbits and furniture.
Step 5. Prepare the litter box
Rabbits will naturally use the same place to defecate, usually in one corner of the cage. Line a small litter box (available at pet stores) with newspaper, then fill it with hay, or stuffing specially prepared for rabbits, then place it in the rabbit's pet corner.
Consider putting another litter box in the rabbit's playroom
Step 6. Create a hiding place in the rabbit's cage
Rabbits are prey animals. Therefore, provide a hiding place such as a block of wood or a cardboard box for the happiness of your pet. One or two hiding places for each rabbit, depending on the size of the cage, should be enough for the rabbit to curl up comfortably.
Step 7. Add cardboard boxes for the rabbit to play and hide in, as well as bite material
Rabbits are very fond of biting things. This behavior is also healthy teeth. If you don't provide a treat to nibble on, the rabbit will nibble on the furniture or items you put around.
Make sure you only provide items that are safe for rabbits to bite. These items will sharpen your rabbit's ever-growing teeth, preventing injury
Part 2 of 5: Delivering Food, Snacks and Water
Step 1. Provide an unlimited amount of fresh grass
Fresh grass is a major component of a rabbit's diet so it should be available at all times. Timothy grass, wheat, and brome are good choices. Provide hay daily in a clean place in the rabbit's cage.
- For rabbits that are in their infancy (under 4 months) feed alfalfa grass and pellets that contain more calories to meet the body's needs at these stages.
- Dry grass is available at pet stores and food or pet stores. Or, you can plant a special grass for this rabbit.
Step 2. Give the rabbit a plate of pellets made from dried timothy grass
These pellets contain protein and fiber, which are essential for rabbit growth. Adult rabbits should get cup for every 2.5 kg body weight.
- Rabbits are herbivores so hay and vegetables can add to their weight. Pellets contain more concentrated energy than straw and should be given in moderation.
- Remember, rabbits can't live on pellets alone. The rabbit's digestive tract is in dire need of long, non-chewable fiber found in hay or timothy grass, to prevent hairballs (trichobezoars) and maintain the health and quality of their digestive system. Biting through the fibers of the long stems also helps erode the rabbit's ever-growing teeth (hypsodonts) and prevents dental problems.
- Baby rabbits can eat alfalfa pellets at will until they reach 6-7 months of age.
Step 3. Give lots of vegetables
Indeed, many rabbits are described as liking carrots. However, you should only give carrots occasionally because of their high sugar content. Wash vegetables for rabbits thoroughly and, if possible, provide organic forage.
- Provide green leaves such as spinach, green cabbage, and radish leaves. Not only that, cilantro / parsley, mustard greens, watercress, celery, and dandelion leaves are also good vegetables for rabbits to eat.
- Two cups of vegetables daily is sufficient for most adult rabbits.
- Introduce green vegetables little by little to avoid indigestion in your pet. For small rabbits, who are less than 12 weeks old, you can add one vegetable a week, about 10 grams, to avoid cecum (appendicitis) disturbances.
- You can also feed your rabbit fruits like apples, blueberries, strawberries, and pineapples for special treats. Fruit has a high sugar content so it should be given in small quantities, about 20-40 grams for every 3 kg of rabbit weight.
Step 4. Avoid giving your rabbit unhealthy food
Some vegetables are not suitable for rabbits, such as corn, iceberg lettuce, tomatoes, cabbage, beans, peas, potatoes, beets, onions, kale, and rhubarb. Also, don't feed your rabbit bamboo, seeds, grains, and meat.
- Human foods, such as bread, chocolate, candy, dairy products, and any processed food should not be given to rabbits.
- Do not give light-colored lettuce (such as iceberg) to rabbits. This kind of lettuce is harmful to rabbits because it causes diarrhea and indigestion by the good bacteria in the intestines. Romaine lettuce is perfect for giving to rabbits. You just need to make sure the romaine lettuce is washed and, if possible, organic.
- You can give your rabbit grass, as long as it's not sprayed with herbicides or pesticides. Let the rabbit choose its own grass. However, avoid mowing grass that has been heated and chopped by a lawn mower. The pruning process will speed up the fermentation process which can cause digestive problems in rabbits.
Step 5. Provide clean water
Fresh water should always be there and changed every day. You can put water in a bowl or bottle that is used a lot for feeding hamsters (look for one that is the size of a rabbit) although a bowl of water also spills easily. Make sure your rabbit never runs out of water and clean the water tank frequently to prevent contamination.
If you use a water bottle, make sure it works properly and doesn't get stuck when you open or close it
Part 3 of 5: Giving the Rabbit Time to Play and Practice
Step 1. Introduce yourself slowly
When it arrives in your hands, leave the rabbit in the cage to get used to its new home. Do not immediately approach and invite him to play because the rabbit has not really adapted to his new environment. Rabbits also don't really know and trust you.
Approach your new rabbit slowly and calmly so that the rabbit doesn't get scared. Rabbits are animals that are very easily frightened and cannot see well. So you should talk before approaching him
Step 2. Leave the rabbit outside for a few hours (if possible, 6-8 hours)
Rabbits love to jump around and run. To stay healthy, rabbits need to move around and jump for several hours each day. You can play with the bunny, or let the bunny have some time on its own (while keeping an eye on it, of course). Most importantly, do not neglect this important element in rabbit care.
- Make sure your rabbit is in a fence that is 30 cm high if it is in the yard or 1 meter high if it is outside. Or, you can also use a rabbit leash.
- If you prefer to play with your rabbit outside, make sure you are in a fenced area and never leave your rabbit unattended.
- Keep predatory cats, dogs and birds away from your rabbit at all times.
Step 3. Overwhelm your bunny with toys
Rabbits like to gnaw on cardboard boxes or old phone books. You can invite him to play by throwing a small ball or doll.
Step 4. Lift the rabbit slowly
Rabbits are fragile and must be handled with care. Place your hands under the rabbit's body, then hold it close to your body. Never pick up a rabbit by its ears.
- Most rabbits like to be petted.
- Don't violently hold the rabbit or pet it when the rabbit is clearly not enjoying it. Rabbits are very susceptible to stress when they feel uncomfortable.
Step 5. Take the time to bond
Bonding with rabbits is not always easy. Rabbits do like snacks and light scratching behind the ears. However, not many people know that this sweet animal sometimes prefers to be left alone. This is because, especially if they have just arrived at your house, rabbits don't like to be snatched out of their comfort zone, which makes it difficult for these creatures to hide from the outside world that is foreign to them.
- Don't be offended if at the first meeting the rabbit bites and claws furiously every time you try to get close. All rabbit owners have experienced it in the early days of raising rabbits. Remember to always be gentle and calm. No need to be angry with yourself or the rabbit. Keep trying. When you get close without getting scratched and bitten, give this little creature a small gift like an apple to let this tiny creature know that what he just did was really fun.
- Once you've successfully bonded with your rabbit, interact with it as often as possible. This will help develop a close and happy relationship. You will also reap the rewards yourself, because rabbits are curious and playful animals, and will return the affection they receive.
Part 4 of 5: Raising More Than a Rabbit
Step 1. Consider keeping several rabbits at once
Rabbits are social animals. These animals like to play with each other. Keeping two rabbits is not too difficult. So, there's nothing wrong with having an extra rabbit to make your pet happier.
- Make sure your rabbits are sterilized, especially if you are keeping them in the same cage.
- Make sure that the new rabbit matches your old rabbit.
- If you really want an extra rabbit, look for one that is the same age and size. Don't forget to sterilize your rabbit to prevent unwanted rabbits from appearing while minimizing hormonal problems.
Step 2. Introduce the new rabbit to the old rabbit gradually
In an established environment, you'll need to introduce newcomers slowly to prevent fights. A pair of rabbits, consisting of a male and female or both female, will match faster than two male rabbits, unless they are still babies.
- Place the rabbits in separate cages in the same area for a few days and watch their behavior. If the rabbits seem restless and anxious, increase the distance between the cages or keep them in separate rooms for a few days, then reunite. When introducing the rabbits, it's a good idea to provide delicious vegetables as a distraction. These vegetables will also make the rabbit more positively associate the presence of other rabbits nearby.
- Gradually, reduce the distance between the cages until they can be placed close together, but still safe from "attacks". As long as both rabbits can spend their days in the cage peacefully, maintain this position for at least a week.
- Then, you can put the rabbits in an exercise pen cage with barriers and, if all goes well, let the rabbits meet each other for a while without borders but still under supervision. Put some delicious leaves in there, 2 or 3 stacks, to reassure your rabbits that all is well. When rabbits lie down together or look after each other, we can say that the rabbits' lives are fine.
Part 5 of 5: Keeping Rabbits Healthy
Step 1. Clean the cage every week
Make sure the rabbit stays under control while you clean the cage. Remove any dirty hay or wood shavings from the cage. Then, wash the cage with warm, soapy water. Rinse clean and dry. Fill the cage with hay or clean shavings.
- You should wash the water container or bottle every day.
- The litter box needs to be changed daily and weekly disinfected with a 10% white vinegar solution. Rinse thoroughly and dry. If the litter box is plastic or metal, you can also clean it in the dishwasher.
- Have more than one litter box so you have a spare when the box gets dirty or is being cleaned.
- Rabbit urine is highly alkaline and forms crystals on the surface of the litter box. To clean it, a bleach solution is needed.
Step 2. Maintain the right temperature for the rabbit
The optimal temperature for rabbits is 16-22 degrees Celsius. If the rabbit is outdoors, provide shelter. If the weather is getting hotter, take the rabbit in a cool room or place a frozen water bottle in the cage to keep the rabbit cool. Keep in mind, rabbits can die from heat stroke.
- Rabbit ears play an important role in temperature control.
- When in the open, rabbits prefer to be underground because the temperature is cool and can dissipate heat.
Step 3. Brush the rabbit's body
There is no need to bathe the rabbit. However, you should brush it with a soft brush to clean the bristles every 1-2 days. If you have 2 rabbits, you will notice that they will help each other take care of themselves.
Rabbits don't need to be bathed unless they're really dirty and aren't able to clean themselves properly
Step 4. Take your rabbit to the doctor at least once a year
Rabbits need to undergo annual checkups to ensure their health. Many veterinarians are only experts in treating cats and dogs, but can't handle rabbits. In this case, you need to see a veterinarian who can handle "exotic" animals.
- After reviewing where you live, your doctor may recommend vaccinations to prevent certain diseases such as Myxomatosis if you live in the UK. However, for those of you who live in the United States, it is not recommended to vaccinate rabbits.
- The doctor will conduct an examination and discuss the results, then make recommendations based on your rabbit's current condition. For the health of the rabbit's teeth, the rabbit may need to be sedated to make it easier for the doctor to examine the teeth completely and to address any sharp points found in the back teeth (premolars and molars).
Step 5. Learn how to read a rabbit's body language
Knowing your rabbit's feelings is very important if you want your rabbit to grow up happy and healthy.
- If your rabbit's ears are standing back up, its eyes are wide, and its body is shriveling up in tension, it's a sign that your rabbit is scared. If the feeling is really scared, the rabbit will tremble and breathe heavily.
- When the rabbit is very relaxed, it will lie with its legs stretched out in front of it or folded under its body. The rabbit may also lie on its side with its ears flat against its back.
- Sometimes, when they are very happy and excited, the rabbit will jump up and wag his body. This movement is called binky. Many rabbits will run around before doing the binky. Sometimes also, when the rabbit is lazy, his binky movement is not perfect. The rabbit will stay on the ground and make a shudder-like motion.
Tips
- There's nothing wrong with buying a harness so you can take him for a walk.
- Some books that can be used as references on how to care for rabbits include Marinell Harriman's House Rabbit Handbook: How to Live with an Urban Rabbit, The Rabbit Handbook, Karen Parker DVM's 2nd edition, and The Everything Pet Rabbit Handbook: Your Ultimate Guide to Pet. Rabbit Ownership, Training, and Care by Sarah Martin. For books in Indonesian, please read, among others, B. Sarwono's Smart Book for Keeping Rabbits and Rodentia, Alex S.'s Complete Guide to Raising Rabbits and Hamsters, and Rudy Hustamin's Guide to Caring for Ornamental Rabbits.
- Always keep your attitude in front of the rabbit. Be sweet, gentle, and patient with rabbits. Shouting or punishing the rabbit doesn't help anything. Better yet, reward it when the rabbit behaves well.
- Rabbit nails should be trimmed every 1-2 months, depending on the activity and where he lives.
- For rabbit safety, keep dogs and cats in your home away from these adorable fluffy creatures.
- When choosing a rabbit, make sure you get a healthy one. Examine the eyes, ears and nose. These three organs must be clean and free of impurities. The front teeth should be even, while the coat should be healthy and clean. The rabbit's paws should be free of sores and not red. Pick up and pet your rabbit to make sure you can handle it easily.
- Never pick up a rabbit by pulling its ears. Never do it once to force him into the cage. Doing so can damage the rabbit's ears.
- Rabbits will bite if pressed.
- If your rabbit refuses to enter the cage, try putting his favorite treat in the cage.
- Be patient if your rabbit seems agitated the first time around you. There are also rabbits that take 3 weeks to get close to their owners.
- When lifting the rabbit, be sure to hold its bottom. Also hug his legs in anticipation if the rabbit rebelled to escape.
Warning
- Do not just use flea medicine for rabbits. Talk to your doctor about the steps you need to take if your rabbit has fleas.
- Make sure that your rabbit's outdoor play area is completely safe as rabbits can get into very tight places and are very difficult to catch if they run and hide. Also make sure that predatory animals, such as cats and dogs, cannot enter.
- Rabbits also have diverse personalities: some are agile and like to jump around, some are lazy, and some are somewhere in between these two traits. Don't force the rabbit to play if the rabbit seems reluctant to do so.
- Don't bathe your rabbit until it's soaking wet. Rabbits can be known to be hypothermic or even go into shock. Rabbits tend to help each other in cleaning themselves.
- Watch out for predators. Predatory animals can be very dangerous if they sense the presence of prey nearby. In this situation, sometimes ordinary chicken coop wire is not sufficient to protect the rabbit from predators. You should consider using additional lining for the cage at night, as rabbits can suffer a fatal heart attack just from the mere sight of a predator.
- As much as possible, don't drop your rabbit. Although tough, rabbits will still be seriously injured, or even die, if dropped from very high places.
- Rabbits can bite or scratch. If you experience a bite that penetrates into the skin, you should have it checked immediately.
- Don't mix rabbits with guinea pigs. These two animals have different diets and health needs. For example, rabbits are capable of synthesizing vitamin C, while guinea pigs are not. In addition, rabbits can suddenly injure the guinea pig.
