Pruning the pear tree annually will help stimulate its growth and ability to bear fruit, while protecting the tree from infection. Prune pear trees in winter and remove the oldest branches. Streamline the tree into a beautiful and effective shape to keep the pear beautiful and healthy.
Step
Part 1 of 3: Removing the Aged Pear Branch
Step 1. Prune off dead or damaged branches
Dead, damaged, or diseased wood should be removed starting from the damaged end. This could mean cutting off a whole large piece if it is damaged or dead. You'll know the part is damaged or dead when the branch leaves no leaves during the growing season, when the rest of the tree is developing.
Removing dead or damaged branches is one of the few times it is permissible to prune trees in the spring or summer
Step 2. Cut the shoots growing from the base of the tree trunk
If there are shoots growing on the main trunk near the base of the tree, these are sucker shoots and are actually part of the root tissue, not the top tissue of the tree that will bear fruit. These sucker shoots have no benefit to the pear tree.
Prune sucker shoots starting at the base of the tree trunk
Step 3. Cut the vertical shoots that grow perpendicular to the main branches
If you see a vertical shoot growing perpendicular to a tree branch, it's a water shoot. Water shoots look different from other branches because they grow from the main branch, are not curved, stunted, and stick up perpendicular to the sky.
Water shoots have no benefit to the tree and must be cut from the base on the main trunk
Step 4. Do not cut the fruit buds as much as possible
Fruit shoots grow on stems that have developed since the previous two years. So you don't have to worry about it on very young trees. Fruit buds look like small curved branches that grow from the main stem with a flower-like floret-shaped ovary-at the end.
- Fruit buds usually take 1-2 years to produce fruit. A year after fruiting, another 1-2 ovules will reappear at this point.
- After 6-7 years, fruit buds will be full of ovules. Then, you can prune it so that new fruit shoots can grow in a different place. The only other reason to cut fruit buds is for dead or damaged branches.
Part 2 of 3: Pruning Pear Trees
Step 1. Prune in winter, on a dry day
Pruning the pear tree in the dormant season before the active growth period in spring is the best time because the tree will channel more energy to grow where it was pruned. Pruning at a time when the leaves are falling from the tree will also allow you to see more clearly what is being done.
You should also choose a dry day to prune the tree. If the conditions are rainy, the risk of infection getting into the wet cut marks will be much higher
Step 2. Prepare sharp and clean cutting shears or pruning saws
If the pruning shears or saw are old and you're not sure how sharp they are, sharpen them yourself or take them to a local hardware store to have them sharpened for a fee. For self-cleaning, dip the blades of scissors or saws in isopropyl alcohol for 30 seconds to disinfect them. After that, wipe it dry with a clean cloth.
Step 3. Cut at an angle parallel to the branch
A slightly angled cut will help prevent water from seeping into the wound and causing the branch to become infected. Cut at the base, where the initial branch grows from the larger branch.
Don't let any sticks stick out, i.e. leftover cuts. Make a clean cut, angled, and all the way to the base
Step 4. Prune 10-20% of trees annually
If the pear tree is healthy, trim 10-20% of the overall tree canopy in a year. The higher percentage figure applies to older trees and a much lower number to younger trees. If the pruning is too much, the pear will grow upright branches-that is, water shoots-which will smother the tree.
If the pile of pruning marks starts to look a lot or is more than 10-20% trees, it's time to stop immediately. Wait until next year to prune them back
Part 3 of 3: Forming a Pear Tree
Step 1. Prune the tree to form a wine glass with equidistant spaces between the branches
In general, a pear tree should be shaped like a wine glass with the main trunk as the base of the glass and the branches growing outwards evenly. Leave about 15–30 cm of open space between healthy branches to facilitate good air circulation and reduce the risk of fungal infections.
Every now and then, take a few steps back from the tree and observe its overall shape while pruning to make sure you're shaping the tree properly and effectively removing overgrown areas
Step 2. Remove any branches pointing downwards
The pear tree branch should point outward and slightly upward. If something is pointing downwards, cut it off at the base, which is the growing point of the branch on the larger branch.
Your general goal is that the distance between the branches should be the same and the branches should stretch out in a nice visual pattern from the center of the tree
Step 3. Prune branches that grow towards the center of the tree
Branches that grow in the opposite direction from the main direction-that is, outwards and upwards-will smother other branches and create an overall appearance that looks like a mess of the tree. Cut the branches at the base, the point where the branches grow on larger branches.
Step 4. Sparse competing branches
If you see two or more branches growing in the same space at a narrow angle, or from different points in parallel directions and stacking on top of each other, choose the healthier looking branch to let grow and cut the other.
