Grafting is a technique that combines 2 plants or 2 plant parts so that they grow into one. This technique allows you to combine the good qualities of a strong, disease-resistant plant with another plant that produces good fruit or beautiful flowers. There are many ways to graft plants, the methods described below allow you to transplant almost any vegetable or fruit plant, flowering shrubs, and even trees such as citrus trees. For information on how to graft stems from larger plants and other trees, see How to Transplant Trees.
Step
Understanding the Basics of Grafting
Step 1. Understand the purpose of grafting
Fruit crops such as tomatoes and the like, sometimes seen as vegetables, have undergone plant breeding for generations to improve their properties. However, no variety is completely perfect. By taking branches from plants that produce good fruit and transplanting them on branches of other plants that are disease resistant and can absorb a lot of nutrients, hybrid plants will be created that have the advantages of each branch of origin.
- Since we are trying to combine special traits, there is no point in grafting plants of the same variety. The exception is when grafting fruit plants at a young age, which will produce fruit much faster if grafted.
- Hybrid plants that are formed will not produce offspring with the same mixed quality. Seeds are produced only by the upper branch of the graft.
Step 2. Purchase high-quality grafted rootstock or seeds or plants
The graft rootstock is the plant that will provide the root system and base of the hybrid plant. Rootstock has generally been selected for these superior characteristics so that the price is more expensive than the seeds in general, the selling price ranges from Rp. 7,000 per seed. Choose root seeds with the quality that suits your needs.
- Generative stem provide more energy to produce fruit, but are more susceptible to disease, cold and heat. Consider using these stems in cool climates such as the Pacific Northwest and harvest the fruit as soon as they are ripe on the tree.
- vegetative stem tends to be more brittle, but is more resistant to heat and does not produce fruit quickly. This option is suitable for a long, hot growing season.
- Choose disease-resistant stems nearby if your plants are susceptible to disease.
Step 3. For fruit-bearing crops, select suitable varieties of the same species
Fruit-bearing plants or scions can produce fruit better. Meanwhile, the top can be grafted with rootstock. Study the rootstock of the plant to determine which varieties will thrive when grafted onto it. If you run a commercial farm or plantation, look for a scion that can produce the kind of fruit you expect.
Note: most plants cannot be grafted with plants of a different species (for example, cucumbers cannot grow on tomato plants). On the other hand, some plants can be grafted onto species that are still related in a clan or family. However, it's a good idea to ask an expert or find out on the internet if this also applies to your plant before trying grafting
Step 4. Use two plants of the same size
The graft will be successful if the branches of the rootstock variety and the branches of the scion variety are the same size. Sow seeds for rootstock and scion seeds in separate seed boxes. If one variety will grow faster, plant the seeds first so that they are both ready to be grafted at the same time. The grafting stages for the different graft models are given below.
Sow several seeds of each variety, to avoid the possibility of seeds dying or failing to graft. If you want to plant a large number of plants please use this online calculator to determine how many seeds to sow
Step 5. Do the grafting in the morning or right at sunset
At that time, plants transpiration (moving water from roots to leaves) more slowly, so that the possibility of plant stress due to the grafting process and water loss can be reduced. Ideally, the grafting process is carried out in a closed room or in the shade.
If you only have time to transplant at times other than those listed above, move the plant to be transplanted to a shady place in the morning to be grafted
Step 6. Disinfect all equipment to reduce the risk of infection
Since there will be open wounds on the plant during the grafting process it is important to keep hands and utensils as clean as possible to minimize the possibility of infection in the plant. Wash your hands with antibacterial soap and wear rubber gloves.
Step 7. Treat the newly grafted plant with more care
Newly grafted plants are more susceptible to temperature changes and infection attacks until the two parts are fully joined. For some grafting methods, a "recovery room" will be needed where we can carefully adjust the surrounding conditions. The method of making the chamber is given in more detail in the top grafting section. The other methods presented here do not require a recovery room.
Method 1 of 3: Grafting with Upper Branches (Tomatoes and Eggplants)
Step 1. Prepare the recovery room first
A recovery room is needed to protect the newly grafted plant from recovering properly. If there are only one or two grafts, you can just use a large plastic bag to wrap the grafted part. If there are a large number of transplanted plants and to increase the success rate, build or buy a wooden or PVC frame, then wrap it in polybag sheets. Use a tarp or calico fabric to prevent sunlight from entering the room during the early stages of recovery. Place a stool in the recovery room for the graft.
Use a frame with a tapered roof so that dew drips on the sides of the room and doesn't hit the plants
Step 2. Insert the tray filled with water into the recovery room and monitor the environmental conditions
Placing a tray filled with water on the recovery room floor will increase the humidity of the air. Before attempting to transplant any plants, monitor conditions in the recovery room for a few days to ensure stability. The temperature should be kept between 21–27ºC with a humidity of 80–95%.
For the record, the recovery room should not be used to store plants before grafting
Step 3. Choose plants measuring 5–13cm in diameter and the same length
Grafting works best on tomato and eggplant plants with stems that are still green and not woody. Individual stems are not markedly enlarged but already have 2–4 true leaves. The most important thing to remember is that both plants must have exactly the same stem diameter for the two halves to come together without difficulty.
- Attention! The first and second leaves that grow are sprouted leaves and not true leaves. These leaves are easy to distinguish because they have different shapes and sizes from true leaves, but the actual appearance depends on each species.
- If you can't find a stem of a similar size, use a rootstock that is larger than the top. The opposite condition will not work.
Step 4. Cut each plant at a 45º angle
Use a sharp knife or a disinfected razor to cut the rootstock and scion. No need to bother getting the right angle as long as the two angles are the same size so that the two parts stick together tightly. Make cuts in one smooth motion to get an even cutting surface. Remove the top of the graft scion and the bottom of the graft scion.
- Cut each plant at the top of the “sprouts” but below the true leaves, this will prevent the scion from growing roots, which will lead to infection.
- Read Understanding Grafting Fundamentals for additional information on plants for scions and rootstocks.
Step 5. Join the two plants using special grafting clamps
These tongs are generally made of silicone or rubber, and can be found at gardening stores or online. Make sure that the corners of the surfaces of the two branches meet, then secure the two halves with grafting clamps.
Step 6. Move the newly formed hybrid plant to a dark, damp room
Plants need time to combine their vascular systems so that plant sap can flow throughout the hybrid plant. During this time, keep the plant in a dark, damp room to suppress water loss through the upper branches of the grafted plant.
The previously mentioned recovery room provides the right conditions for this time, with opaque covers to protect the plants from the sun. On a small scale, place a plastic bag over the plant and store it away from direct sunlight. Water the underside of the graft or spray the leaves if the humidity is less than 85%
Step 7. Slowly return the plant to full sun conditions
Store grafts in a special environment for at least 4 days, usually after a week the leaves will return to their original fresh condition. However, change environmental conditions slowly over the next few days or weeks. Increase the sun exposure received and reduce ambient humidity by reducing the amount of water in the tray or by raising the plastic cover higher.
Leaves that appear wilted in the first days are normal. Just spray water on the leaves if this happens. If the leaves still wilt after three or four days this means the grafting process failed. Although this method of grafting is quite reliable and all steps have been carried out carefully, a failure rate of around 5% is still possible
Step 8. After two weeks, return the grafted plant to its normal condition
If the plant's leaves still look wilted, the graft may not survive or will not develop properly this growing season. Healthy plants can be returned to normal conditions suitable for seeds to be planted. This condition varies according to the plant species.
Step 9. Hybrid plants that can be planted should be planted with the graft clamp position far above the ground
The point where the two graft branches meet must be at least 2.5 cm above the ground to prevent the upper branches from growing roots. You don't have to worry about removing the graft clamps, which will come off on their own if the graft gets bigger.
Feel free to prune the roots growing on the upper branches or shoots growing from the lower branches of the graft. You can also trim the side branches so that more energy is channeled into producing fruit
Method 2 of 3: Grafting with Tongue Connecting Approach (Melon and Cucumber Plants)
Step 1. Plant the seeds for the upper branches 5–7 days before the seeds for the lower branches
A general rule of thumb is that seeds for scion selected on the basis of fruit quality, should be planted earlier than seed for lower branches, which are selected for other qualities such as disease resistance. You can plant more precisely if you know the growth rate of each variety.
Use a small container. For this method, you will need to be able to attach two different plants while each is still standing on its roots. The small container ensures that the two plants can meet without breaking the roots
Step 2. Prepare to transplant when both plants have grown true leaves
The first leaves to grow are sprouted leaves that are small and don't look like true leaves on an adult plant. After the emergence of one or two leaf sprouts, will grow true leaves with different sizes and shapes. Plants are ready to be grafted when both plants are at this stage.
The highest grafting success rate can be obtained if the stem diameter and height of the two plants to be grafted are almost the same, although this does not have to be the case in this technique
Step 3. Use a sharp, clean razor blade to make a downward incision in the lower half of the rootstock
Cut about half the stem with a downward cut at an angle between 30º and 60º degrees. Select a point on the stem with a position below the leaf sprout.
Always use a sanitized razor blade and wear rubber gloves. This is to reduce the chance of the plant getting infected. It is not recommended to use only a regular sharp knife because the cut to be made requires high precision
Step 4. Make the incision pointing up at an angle according to the incision of the upper branch
Again select a spot below the leaf sprout and cut off about half the size of the stem. The incision should be made upward so that the two pieces can be joined easily.
Step 5. Connect the two plants in the incision position and connect them
Connect the upper 'tongue' of the upper branch to the incision formed at the lower cut of the lower branch. Unlike in the upper branch graft method, this method does not require special clamps to attach the two parts, if desired, of course it is okay. Another alternative is to wrap with plastic sheet, aluminum sheet or parafilm. Wearing a transparent material will make it easier to observe the healing of the incision.
Label each plant, especially if there are varieties that look similar. To prevent confusion at a later stage, it's possible to throw out the good parts instead of the worst
Step 6. Wait for each incision to heal completely
Unlike the top grafting method, we don't need to place the grafts in the recovery room, this is because each plant still has the ability to distribute water from the roots to the leaves. If you have a large number of transplanted plants, store them in greenhouse conditions appropriate for each species.
Step 7. Remove the upper branches of the plant after five days
If the plant looks fresh and the leaves are no longer wilting, the grafting process is considered successful. It's okay to leave the two plants together for a little longer, but if all looks promising, trim off the tops of the upper branch plants at the point above them.
Always use a razor blade that has been disinfected
Step 8. Remove the roots on the scion after a few days
Supervise the recovery of hybrid plants. If the incision appears to be healing and the leaves are fresh again, you can cut off the lower part of the scion, which is below the point of connection. This is usually done a week after grafting, but it can be delayed a few days to be on the safe side.
Step 9. Remove the clamp or wrapping
When the incision has healed properly and the two plants are successfully connected, remove the clamp or wrapping the connection. This hybrid plant can be cared for and treated as the plant variety is usually cared for.
Method 3 of 3: Using the Bud Patch Method (Rose, Orange Tree, and Avocado Tree)
Step 1. Plant the seeds of the lower branches first
For roses and other trees of the same size, plant them 30 cm apart. Plant in the nursery and care for the needs of each species and variety. Can be planted from seed or bud, as long as it is planted long enough so that the stem is large enough and woody by the time the upper branches begin to sprout.
- Unlike the grafting method mentioned above, which connects parts of the main plant, this budding method only requires the top branch to sprout. This means that the upper branches may differ in age and size from the lower branches.
- Read Understanding Grafting Fundamentals to learn about rootstock and scion plants.
Step 2. Prepare to transplant plants when the weather is cool and the upper branches are sprouting
If the weather is hot and dry, water the rootstock copiously for two weeks before grafting. This will help make the bark soft and easy to cut and manipulate.
Step 3. Make a T-shaped incision on the rootstock plant
The incision is made approximately 20-30 cm from the ground. The vertical section of the incision measures 2.5–4 cm, and the horizontal section of the incision should be 1/3 of the circumference of the stem diameter. Two folds of bark will form, on the sides of the vertical incision, which can be lifted slightly from the stem.
- Roses and other flowering shrubs can be cut 5–10cm above the ground.
- As always, when cutting stems or branches, use a sharp, sterile knife and wear rubber gloves. This is to reduce the chance of the plant getting infected.
Step 4. Cut off the healthy shoots taking some of the bark from the scion plant
Choose shoots from upper branch plants that grow healthy and strong, remove one of the shoots. Cut into the bark at an angle to remove the wood chips starting at 1cm from the bottom of the shoot, and 2–2.5cm) from the top of the shoot. Carefully peel this part, trimming if necessary to remove the bia from the tree trunk.
Step 5. Insert the shoots into the T slices that have been made
Carefully lift the bark incision on the sides of the T slice to reveal the green layer of cambium underneath. Insert the cut shoot, with the shoot facing up. Gently press into the vertical incision so that the shoot is just below the horizontal slice of the T.
Each piece must have a cambium layer attached to each other. Practice cutting the required pieces several times to get the right fit. One rootstock can be attached by several scion shoots
Step 6. Tie the two parts of the plant together
You can buy special rubber for this purpose at gardening stores. Can also use thick rubber or insulation. Do not cover plant shoots with wrappers.
Step 7. Wait for the graft to heal before untying it
The graft pieces take 3 to 8 weeks to fully heal depending on the season. If the plant looks fresh and the cutting has recovered, untie the knot.
Step 8. Cut the rootstock above the new shoot, leaving enough space
We don't want the rootstock to grow new shoots, but don't throw it all away. Cut the rootstock about 20–30 cm above the newly attached shoot, or just a few inches if working on a small plant. These so-called “sub-branches” will protect where the two plants are attached.
Step 9. Once the shoots have sprouted a few new leaves, remove the remaining rootstock
When the inserted scion pieces have joined perfectly and are growing some new leaves, remove any remaining rootstock that is above the point of attachment. Cut to 3 mm above the bud patch.
Tips
- There are various ways to transplant plants, but the methods described here are the most commonly used methods for these types of plants.
- Upper branch grafting is also known as tube grafting, splice grafting, slant-cut grafting, or one-cotyledon grafting.
- Tongue grafting is also known as approach grafting, side grafting, or side-by-side grafting.
