Wood that has been converted from logs to finished wood needs to be preserved, because if it is not preserved it will rot and rot. Preserving wood will extend its life, increase its resistance, and protect it from pests such as insects, rodents, or fungi. Wooden houses, wooden furniture, wooden decks, and other structures constructed from real wood require maintenance to keep the wood healthy and free from decay. Preserve wood with regular maintenance that will keep it in good shape for years.
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Part 1 of 2: Protecting Wood with Oil
Step 1. Oil the wood any time if it feels dry
Outside of industrial use, rubbing oil is the most common way to preserve wood. The right oil will absorb into the pores of the wood, keeping the wood strong and slowing the absorption of water that can cause rot. Two coats of oil can protect the wood for years, but this is highly dependent on the oil and the environment, so have it checked regularly. If the grease absorbs quickly, the wood is dry.
- Even if you want to paint wood, you need to oil it first, especially if the wood is old and not in good condition.
- Teak is a very durable wood that does not need to be oiled, although if it has already been oiled it will need to be re-oiled regularly.
Step 2. Remove dust and dirt
Prepare the wood by removing any dirt or debris. Use a clean, dry towel or rag to wipe the wood. Pay attention to and repair any defects or stains on the wood.
Step 3. Choose an oil or commercial product
There are many oils and wood preservative products suitable for home use. Follow these suggestions to choose the one that's best for your wood:
- Tung oil provides good protection, if you are okay with its high cost and long drying time. Coatings containing tung oil provide better waterproof protection than 100 percent tung oil, but avoid varnishes that produce a topcoat instead of soaking into the wood, and watch out for products sold under the name “tung oil” which are unrelated. with the original product.
- For application to cutting boards and other kitchen utensils, use food-safe mineral oil, or coconut oil, walnut oil, or almond oil. Avoid the last two types of oil and if you have a peanut allergy problem. Mix teaspoon of melted wax for 240 ml of oil for added protection.
- There are many synthetic products on the market, including good ones that use linseed oil as a base but provide added protection. Water-based finishes are inexpensive and easy to apply, but are not great for long-term preservation.
- Boiled linseed oil /BLO (consisting of crude linseed oil and heated linseed oil) is a common choice, but it is less water resistant and can develop a yellowish stain over time. The main advantage is price. (Crude linseed oil is even less effective, although environmentally friendly.)
Step 4. Gather the ingredients
Find a clean, dry cloth to rub off the oil and newspaper to catch any oil droplets. Since most of these oils are flammable, keep a metal container nearby to store these tools after the oiling process. Have water or a fire extinguisher ready so that you are prepared for the unexpected if some of these materials ignite spontaneously.
The risk of fire is greatly reduced when the oil dries. When the job is done, air the rag and newspaper spread out and away from buildings and heat
Step 5. Mix solvent if appropriate
Commercial products may not require this step; refers to the label. If using tung oil or linseed oil, mix a small amount of the oil with an equal amount of mineral oil turpentine, or other solvent,. Mix in more solvent if the oil doesn't seep into the wood.
Do not use solvents for cutting boards or other wood that will come into contact with food
Step 6. Gently rub the oil
Use a cloth to wipe the oil off the wood, covering all surfaces. For an even finish, apply the oil in just one stroke, and rub it into the wood a little at a time.
- Applying more oil at once is fine, if you want to save time. The more polishing you do, the more variation in color and shine you'll have, but this may damage the wood's appearance.
- If you are using a product sold as a wood protector, refer to the label for more precise instructions.
Step 7. Wipe off the excess oil
Any excess oil should be wiped off the wood surface within a few minutes, unless the product label states otherwise. The oil that gets into the wood will provide protection; Too much oil on the surface will only add an unnecessary surface layer that can become gummy or discolored over time.
When the oil has dried on the surface, dampen a cloth with a little oil to wipe it again
Step 8. Apply more layers by sanding in between applying each coat
At least two or three layers of oil are recommended for long-term preservation. Follow these steps:
- Wait for the previous layer to dry. This can take under an hour for synthetic products, to a week or more for crude linseed oil.
- Gently sand the wood surface.
- Mix in more of the oil solution, if necessary. Use a little bit of solvent for each layer, creating a thicker mixture.
- Rub in the next layer.
Part 2 of 2: Using Additional Protection and Minimizing Damage
Step 1. Consider applying additional protection products
When the last layer of oil has dried, the wood will be much more resistant to weathering and brittleness. However, there are some harmful oils that do not protect, and these can be treated with a final coat when the last coat of oil is completely dry. All of the following options are optional:
Step 2. You can use “wood preservative” as a pest and mildew repellent
Some of these products may not be safe to use around children.
- The waterproof preservative will provide additional protection against water, which may be useful if the wood will be exposed to serious moisture.
- A coat of paint provides additional protection, depending on the type of paint.
- To protect the wood from scratches, use polyurethane or another wood finish.
Step 3. Minimize exposure to moisture and sunlight on the wood
This will help the wood to last longer. Clean the liquid water from the wood furniture immediately. Cover wooden furniture with tarpaulin or water-resistant fabric or canvas as they are coated with strong tar and are water-resistant during times of extreme heat, cold and wet weather.
Step 4. Wipe up dirt frequently
Sweep the wood deck regularly as dirt and plant fibers contain moisture and mildew. Sweeping is preferable to sprinkling water, as sweeping removes coarse grains of sand and doesn't create damaging moisture.
Step 5. Paint regularly
Apply the paint of choice to the wood without removing the existing finish. Use a paint with a strong exterior grade when applying primer and painting furniture.
Inspect all sides of the log house annually for signs of damage. Sides that are exposed to strong winds and rain need to be painted sooner than the rest
Step 6. Maintain good airflow
Ventilation helps control moisture, so keep the wood free of dry leaves, fallen leaves, and debris. If you have a wooden structure in your garden, consider creating a trellis for nearby plants, so the plants can grow around the structure without causing problems.
Tips
- Uncured wood is available for sale. Even preserved wood requires the right steps so that the wood is preserved and safe from rot and weathering. Even preserved wood should be stored above and away from ground level.
- Experts often debate which oil is best, or even disagree on specific oil qualities such as water resistance or longevity. The advice given here is supported from many sources, but builders may still disagree.
- If small, thin crystals appear on the wood, this means that the wood has absorbed too much oil. These crystals will not harm the wood, but be a waste of oil.
- Choose hardwoods when buying wood products. While all woods are susceptible to rot, hardwoods such as cedar and teak are stronger and require less maintenance and attention. However, these types of wood tend to be more expensive than other types of wood. They tend to be more expensive than other wood.
