Training a horse is a long but rewarding experience. By training your horse yourself, you will teach him to do what you want while building a strong emotional bond. Start from the ground up, and over time you'll have a good ride.
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Part 1 of 5: Becoming a Good Coach
Step 1. Know your level of experience
Training an untrained horse is a very attractive prospect, but your passion may overshadow an objective view of your knowledge and experience. If you're determined to train your horse but don't have years of experience or have never trained before, consider hiring a part-time professional trainer or asking an experienced friend for advice.
Step 2. Don't expect your horse to immediately trust or bond with you, even if you have a lot of training experience
Step 3. Be a strong leader
To train successfully, you must show your horse that you can be trusted and care about their needs. However, leading is different from commanding. When you start training, make sure you give clear and strong signals without getting aggressive and violent. Your goals as a leader should be as follows:
- Be assertive but not aggressive.
- Train slowly but firmly to build trust.
- Make sure to keep the horse safe (physical and mental) at all times.
- Stay confident and calm.
Step 4. Create a training plan
Even the best coaches still have a detailed training plan in mind. Keep yourself organized by having a step-by-step training schedule. Break tasks down into small goals, and do them gradually. Each item on your schedule should build on what you've trained, so your horse is always reinforcing the training you've been given.
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Stick to your training schedule. It's okay if training takes longer than you think, but don't leave too much time between training sessions.
Train a Horse Step 3 - Make your schedule in detail. Instead of starting with 'basic training', break it down into segments such as 'training backwards from the controller' or 'training to move the front leg.'
Step 5. Develop a consistent reward/discipline system
You cannot train a horse properly if you are not consistent with the teaching system. With all beings, positive reinforcement is more ideal than negative reinforcement. However, sometimes a horse will need you to be more assertive before doing what you ask.
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Immediately reward the horse after successfully doing what you asked. This includes releasing the emphasis used to signal horses and sometimes verbal praise.
Don't reward your horse with treats, as this will make them expect it and also tend to bite over time. Treats can be given once in a while, but should be kept for shared time outside of training
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Discipline the horse if he disobeys on purpose for minor reasons. Understand that horses always have reasons for their actions, and often just want to communicate a problem, they are in pain, or want to tell you something.
- Discipline should be exercised in a way that the horse understands – in a way that the leading horse in the herd will 'punish' it for disobeying. 'Bite' the horse by pinching it against the chest or pushing it with the palm of your hand.
- Never punish a horse by hitting or whipping it. As a trainer, you must demonstrate your power without compromising the mental and physical health of your horse.
Part 2 of 5: Basic Training
Step 1. Train your horse to face facial restraint
When you start training a horse, you're going to be touching his face and head a lot, and he'll have to be patient with this. Start by placing your hand on the part of his face or neck that is comfortable for him, then slowly move it to his head. Return to a less scary area after making progress, then repeat.
- Move slowly. Horses are easily frightened by their fast and unpredictable movements because they are often prey animals and will feel restless if you move suddenly.
- If your horse becomes tense or fidgety when you touch a certain part of his face, stop your hand and hold it there for one second. Reward yourself by moving your hand to a more comfortable area. Continue this several times, placing your hand on the restless area for a longer time each time.
- If move your hand away from their face if they are scared or agitated. By letting go of your hand, you show that your hand is dangerous/scary and that they should be afraid of it.
- Continue this process little by little each day until your horse doesn't react badly when you touch his face, without even touching his neck or body first.
Step 2. Train your horse to walk near you
When leading your horse, the ideal position is level with their face. Getting too far ahead of them means you're pulling them away and not having their attention, and having them in front of you means you clearly have no control. Hold the harvest or the whip in your hands, so you have power/energy. Start walking with it, pushing it too close and pulling it too far.
- Hold the crop in front of the horse's chest to prevent it from going too far in front of you, and wave it behind it to speed it up if it gets too far behind.
- Once they start walking next to you, release the harvest. If they start to speed up or slow down, take another crop and repeat the above process to slow down from the front or speed up from the back.
- Do this until they walk next to you consistently, even without the use of harvest.
Step 3. Train your horse to stop
A horse that can't be signaled to stop is a horse that doesn't think you're a leader. Walk next to your horse (using the technique above) and stop after a few meters. If your horse doesn't come to a stop, repeat the process but at the next stop turn it over to face it, which will hinder its forward movement while you stop. If he doesn't stop, repeat the above but stick the crop in front of his chest as he turns around.
- Don't take another step when you decide to quit. If your horse keeps going and you follow him, he will think he can control you and won't follow your 'stop' cues.
- Get your horse to stop when you hear the word 'woah' by saying it every time you stop.
Step 4. Train your horse to reverse
Backtracking is one of the basic movements desired in a trained horse. Take your horse to an open area, along with a leash and dumbbells. You will need a harvest for this process. Start by holding the rope directly in front of him, about 4 feet (1.2 meters) from the rope on the dumbbell. Start by focusing on getting their attention, they should be looking at you with one ear turned toward you.
- Tap the lead rope with the harvest and say 'back off' firmly (but not aggressively). Wait for the horse to retreat.
- If your horse doesn't back off, repeat the process but tap the lead more firmly. Keep adding stress to your beats; if your horse doesn't respond tap them firmly on the nose or chest with a harvest while saying 'back off' firmly.
- As your horse steps back, reduce the pressure by stepping back a few feet and breaking eye contact. Then, step forward and caress while praising him.
- Practice this habit by repeating all the steps above.
Part 3 of 5: Training Your Horse Around
Step 1. Train your horse to long at different speeds
Longe does several things – it makes the horse focus on you and your cues, releases excess energy and adrenaline, and strengthens the cue being trained. Start by attaching a 20 inch (50 cm) long leash to your horse, and making it run around you. After a few minutes, accelerate into a run by making a knocking sound and swinging the end of the longe toward the hind legs.
- If he doesn't respond, make a knocking sound and add pressure by running towards his hind legs.
- If your horse still doesn't respond, you can swing the crop toward its tail. The harvest will act as an extension of your arm and signal it to move faster.
- To make your horse buck up, repeat the same process but make a kissing sound to replace the tapping sound. This will allow you to indicate different speeds when riding your horse later.
Step 2. Stop your horse as it spins
Use a trained 'woah' sound to train your horse to stop during a longe. As it moves, take a few steps toward its path, blocking its path (without directly blocking your horse's path). While doing this, say 'woah' slowly.
- If your horse doesn't stop, shorten the longe and repeat the process. You can also shake the rope as you do it, getting more aggressive until the horse responds.
- When the horse stops, lower eye contact and approach to pet it. Give a word of praise while doing it so they know what to do.
Step 3. Change direction
Make your horse change direction during a longe without stopping. As he moves in a direction, take a few steps toward his shoulder to stop him (as you would to make him stop). At the same time, swing the end of the longe in a spiral motion in front of the track. This sent energy to block him but kept him moving, so he had to turn around.
- If he doesn't turn around right away, jog toward him in front of his path, looping the longe. Back off to release the pressure as they turn around.
- Make a tapping sound while doing this to keep him moving.
Part 4 of 5: Reducing Your Horse's Sensitivity
Step 1. Use your lead leash to imitate a rein
Get your horse into the habit of having a rein around his neck and you pulling his face in using the lead rope on the dumbbells. Take your horse to the stable, and make him stand still. Hold the rope a few feet from the dumbbells, then throw the ends against the horse's back. Shake and move it up and down the neck.
- If your horse is nervous or scared, don't let him run and don't let go of the leash. Keep moving the rope around his back until he calms down and stops moving. Then remove the rope.
- Do this on both sides of the horse, pulling the rope around its face as well. The goal is to eliminate sensitivity to the rope or rein that is attached and moved frequently.
Step 2. “Sack down” your horse
Removing your horse's sensitivity to 'scary' objects moving around is called the 'sack down' process. Use a harvester or a long stick, then attach a plastic bag to the end. Swing in the air around the horse; he is likely to be afraid or become restless. When he's scared, keep moving the bag until he realizes it's harmless and calms down. Then remove the bag and harvest, petting your horse while praising it.
- Continue this process until you have rubbed the bag all over the horse. Remember never to let go of the bag when he's scared, only when he's calm.
- Replace the bag with something else that makes a noise or is more frightening. A black jacket, for example, is a frightening object to most untrained horses.
Step 3. Use Jeffrey's method to desensitize your horse to movement
After a few days of 'sack down', prepare your horse for riding by getting it used to being around you or being ridden. Approach the horse and jump, swing your arms, do any activity that may seem strange and scare your horse. As with other desensitization methods, don't stop when he's scared; stop only if they realize you are not a threat and calm down.
- Rub the horse's body and move around them quickly so they don't get distracted by the fast movements.
- Once your horse is comfortable with all of your movements, rest your belly on its back. You prepare it for riding by adding weight, but do it in a less intimidating way.
Part 5 of 5: Training Your Horse Under the Saddle
Step 1. Lay down the saddle blanket
Training a horse under the saddle should be done step by step, starting with the most basic material, a saddle blanket. Take your horse to an open area, a stable or work area water source, and bring a saddle pad. Let him see it and kiss it, then lift it onto his back. Pat and move it slightly to make sure he is comfortable with it.
Take a walk with a used saddle. Since there's nothing holding the blanket up, make sure the horse doesn't run too fast so the blanket doesn't fall off and frighten him
Step 2. Longe with “surcingle”
The next step is to install the surcingle; a riding gear consisting of a fully wrapped rope with a control horn. It gives the feeling of a saddle without its weight and size. When the surcingle is attached to the horse, take a short walk using the longe. After a few minutes, signal to run and catch up.
Longe uses the surcingle several times during the 1-2 weeks before using the saddle to make sure the horse is completely comfortable with something strapped to its back
Step 3. Start using the saddle
Choose a ringin english saddle to start with. It will be less scary and heavy for his back. Let your horse see and smell it, then slowly lift it onto its back. Lay down gently, then watch your horse react. You can then tighten the rope, and walk the horse.
- Release the saddle briefly, then repeat the process. Place the saddle on both sides of the horse so he gets used to you holding him around.
- Longe used the saddle for a few days after putting it on and walking around.
Step 4. Install the bitless bridle (bridle mounted in the mouth)
Never apply beets directly to horses; use a bridle without bits to get her used to wearing something other than dumbbells on her face. You can put it on the dumbbells to start with, or leave it alone. Take walks with the bridle without the bits, and if dumbbells are also attached you can longe with the bridle attached.
Step 5. Start using bits
When you're sure your horse is comfortable with a no-bit bidle, try introducing bits. Use a soft beet, and slowly put it in his mouth by tickling his gums. Let him hold it for a moment, then release the bridle. Do this daily before applying pressure to the beets; let the horse get used to having something in its mouth.
- Getting your horse used to beets can take a long time, so never rush. If you have to stand for 30 minutes to get your horse used to receiving beets, do so. Patience is essential to getting a horse used to the bit, and it is the most potentially dangerous aspect of training a horse under the saddle.
- After the horse has worn the bit for a few days, you can start using the reins to guide the beet. However, do not longe your horse with the bit in its mouth as this is dangerous and unsafe.
Step 6. Assemble all the fixtures
At the end, put all the riding gear on the horse directly. Do this slowly and walk him first; Do not rush. Use a bridle without a bit to do a longe with all the gear on, or lead him on a walk or run with a bit.
- This is best done once a day for a few days before attempting to ride.
- You can continue to use Jeffery's method of desensitizing with the gear used to get the horse used to the possibility of you riding it.
Tips
Always be patient in training horses
Each horse will provide a different learning experience; no two horses are alike. Horses have personalities too, and this is very visible when training
- Show the horse that you want your space. Don't let him pet or push you. This creates bad habits later in life.
- Spend time with your horse outside of training. Brush her often and work with her outside the home to build a close bond.
- Be careful. Wear head protection, good shoes (riding boots recommended), a suitable pair of pants/jeans and a suitable shirt.
