Just like humans, cats have many forms and triggers for aggression. Dealing with cat aggression, even resolving it, is possible. Most situations involving cat aggression are manageable and usually stem from fear, anxiety, lack of socialization, or a traumatic life experience. Cats need patience and understanding to improve their behavior. However, if he continues to be aggressive you should consider moving to a farm so his behavior can be shifted to hunting. For the safety of yourself and others who come into contact with your cat, understand and manage its behavior.
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Method 1 of 6: Understanding Cat Aggression
Step 1. Look for behavioral patterns
To us, cats can seem unpredictable or confusing, but in reality we are simply not good at reading cat body language and understanding what it means. However, what we do know is that there are clear patterns that involve cat aggression. These patterns can be divided into a series of situations – i.e. oriented categories that are not mutually exclusive.
- Play aggression occurs when a cat plays too violently.
- Fear aggression/self-defense stems from feeling threatened, vulnerable, or trapped.
- Territorial aggression usually only occurs between cats and can be expressed towards humans and other animals.
- Maintenance aggression is not fully understood. This aggression may stem from overstimulation.
- Aggression between males arises as a result of the competitive nature of male cats.
- Maternal aggression is a female cat's protective response.
- Distracted aggression can stem from uncontrollable frustration, so the cat redirects it to another target, such as another person or cat.
- Predatory aggression comes from cats whose predatory instincts are stimulated.
- Pain aggression stems from long-standing or ongoing pain sensations.
- Idiopathic aggression is spontaneous and can be a threat to the physical safety of someone who comes into contact with cats.
Step 2. Understand the cat's body language
Knowing when your cat is going to be offensive or defensive by paying attention to his body language is key to dealing with the problem at hand. Look for signs of aggression, for example:
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Defensive posture
- Squat
- Bowed head
- Tail that goes down and tucked in the back of the body
- Eyes wide open with dilated pupils, either partially or completely
- Ears that drop to the side or the back of the head
- Piloerection (neck hair stands up)
- Side by side with the opponent, not face to face
- Hissing with mouth open or spitting
- Attacking with forelegs while removing claws
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Offensive postures
- A tense body position with straight legs
- Tense hind legs, with raised buttocks and bent back
- Stiff tail, lowered, or pinned to the floor
- Live view
- Ears erect, with back slightly turned forward
- Piloerection (standing feathers), including the tail
- Constricted pupils
- Facing the opponent head-on, it's also possible to approach him
- It may growl, howl, or cry
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Excessive aggression
- Swing or strike with the sole of the foot
- Bite
- Fight
- Growling and high-pitched
- clawing
- Prepare to attack massively by rolling to the sides or back and baring teeth and claws.
Step 3. Know when aggressive behavior occurs
Do cats become aggressive when other people or animals are present? In many cases, aggression occurs due to certain triggers. Pay attention to the cat's environment when he is aggressive so you can determine the cause and correct his behavior.
Step 4. Recognize maternal cat aggression
Cats may become aggressive after giving birth. Mother cats have an instinct to protect their offspring from potential harm. Maternal aggression can occur when a mother cat and her kittens are approached by humans or other animals that she perceives as a threat. The mother can be very aggressive when it comes to defending her young, especially in the first few days after giving birth. Avoid handling kittens in the first few days. Introduce yourself gradually.
Provide a low-stress environment, minimize the number of visitors, and avoid handling the mother or her offspring if you encounter maternal aggression
Step 5. Talk to your veterinarian or animal behaviorist
It is very important whenever you are dealing with animal aggression, to evaluate the available options. Since there are different types of aggression, with some being more acceptable (or not), make sure your behavior doesn't make the problem worse.
Method 2 of 6: Building Trust
Step 1. Give the cat some space
While you should make sure your cat is stimulated in its environment, aggressive cats may not want to socialize with humans. He needs personal space to learn to trust people. Instead of swinging a toy in his face, don't force him to play unless he enjoys it.
- When entering a room with an aggressive cat, avoid eye contact and make sure the cat has an escape route. Do not approach an aggressive cat unless necessary; let him approach you.
- If you have to deal with it, wear thick gloves and a long-sleeved T-shirt to avoid the risk of injury from scratches. To lift the cat, wrap it in a towel so that its movement is limited.
Step 2. Pay close attention to the cat's body language
Some cats are very easily stimulated, and play sessions can escalate into aggression. For a cat, play is related to how it learns to hunt. Play aggression is the most common type of aggressive behavior that owners encounter in their cats.
- Through playing with each other, young cats learn to limit their bites and retain their claws when swinging their legs.
- Each cat's learning rate varies, and cats that are orphaned or weaned too early may never learn to adjust their behavior while playing.
- Some of the factors that can contribute to play aggression are prolonged alone time without playing opportunities, and owners encouraging their cats to chase and bite human hands and feet.
Step 3. Give the cat various toys
Some cats prefer toys that they can toss around themselves. Other cats may choose toys that require the owner's participation, such as ones you can swing and rock. Stimulating play sessions for cats involve “hunting” opportunities, so move the toys in a way that mimics the movements of a mouse or bird. Introduce new toys gradually to keep the cat from getting bored with the toys.
Step 4. Spend at least twenty minutes with the cat, twice a day
Forty minutes isn't very long for humans, but it means a lot to your relationship with the cat. This time will increase the bond between you and him, as well as help the cat to expend some of its energy.
- For a very aggressive cat, you just need to be in the same room, lying on the floor, blindfolded, with treats around. This will give your cat time to develop her confidence so she doesn't see you as a threat.
- Use fishing pole-type toys to keep the cat away from you while playing.
- Stop playing until the cat calms down if it bites or scratches you.
- Do not encourage the cat to play with his hands, feet, or other body parts. While this may be fun when the cat is small, as he gets older this trick can be dangerous and painful.
- Don't use toys to teach your cat to play with both hands, such as wearing gloves with balls hanging from the fingers. When you do, the cat will be encouraged to direct the play into your hands.
- Don't physically punish your cat for playing rough. When your cat is spanked, he may perceive it as play or be afraid of your hand.
- Don't run from your cat or try to block its movement with your feet. These actions can cause your cat to intensify its play or become aggressive.
Step 5. Create a closed cage for the cat
A more complex environment will keep your cat stimulated, so she will need less attention from you. An outdoor cage will not only keep the cat away, it will also keep other animals away from it. Make sure you also prepare a platform and places for him to explore and rest. Cats will spend hours watching the leaves in the wind, the birds flying and the squirrels running around. If you can't afford an outdoor cage, try creating a window perch so your cat can sit and look out easily.
Step 6. Try using a pheromone that mimics a cat's natural body odor
This pheromone is similar to what a cat releases when it rubs its head against an object. This method may reduce the voltage. Use a dissolving tool to help deal with aggression problems. Talk to a pet professional about brand recommendations and proper application.
Method 3 of 6: Using Food to Deal with Behavior
Step 1. Protect your cat from anything that causes her to show fear aggression while eating
Some examples of this include loud noises, children, other cats who bullied him, and dogs. If your cat is afraid of any of these things, it may not eat and react aggressively. Keeping your cat's environment calm and safe while he's eating will help you calm him down.
Step 2. Use food to reward your cat for non-aggressive behavior
Cats will usually associate eating sessions with positive feelings, so you can use food as a reward to help regulate their behavior. Here are some techniques you can try:
- To develop your cat's trust, find her treats and spread them around the room when she has to play. Try holding the treat in your hand and dropping it so the cat can approach you.
- Give the trigger aggression stimulus from a safe distance for some time, then reward the cat with food if he is not being aggressive. For example, if he is acting aggressively out of fear of someone, the person can stand a distance away which does not trigger the cat's aggressive behavior.
- When caring for your cat, you can keep them in a large cage at the opposite end of the room and use a leash or harness so your cat can see the source of the aggression but not run away. After a few hours, you can bring the two closer together. After several similar sessions, the cat and its trigger for aggression can get closer without a defensive reaction from the animal.
Step 3. Teach your cat to love being petted with treats
Caressing aggression is a behavior that is not well understood, even by animal behaviorists. So far, some cats are thought to have only sensitive points or a limited tolerance for touch. The next time you pet your cat, pay attention and look for signs of irritation. As soon as you recognize your cat's tolerance level and realize it's over, stop petting. Stand up and remove the cat from your lap.
Step 4. Try baiting the aggressive brood with food
This is an easy method to calmly distract him. When he's busy eating, you have the opportunity to take care of his puppies while avoiding aggressive behavior. You can use this trick in a gradual acclimatization process.
Step 5. Give your cat a new meal plan so you can practice tolerance before he eats
Learn the specific types of behavior he enjoys and use only those actions when training him. Remember to vary your behavior. Any activity that is too repetitive can make your cat bored and irritated.
Step 6. Serve several small meals each day instead of one or two large meals to help deal with predatory aggression
Avoid the “free feeding” technique (filling the cat's feeding bowl so he can eat all the time). If your daily activity schedule makes it impossible to feed multiple times, buy a feeder with a timer. This tool is designed to open based on a specific schedule. Predatory aggression does not appear when the cat eats from the bowl, but only when he is confronted with objects that are considered prey.
Method 4 of 6: Introducing Another Cat
Step 1. Start slowly
Most territorial aggression is directed at other cats. Managing this aggression can be done in the same way as the process of acclimatization of fear aggression, namely by running it gradually.
- Keep the two cats in separate rooms. Set up litter boxes, food, and water in each room. Both cats should be able to smell and hear each other through closed doors, but make sure the cats don't make physical contact.
- After a few days, swap the positions of the two cats. Let your cat investigate the smell of the newcomer, while the newcomer explores the house and smells his friend's scent.
- Return them to the initial room after being given the opportunity to explore.
Step 2. Introduce cats to each other while eating
Both cats must be fed at the same time in order to learn to associate the pleasure of eating with the presence of a friend. Place a cat on each side of the room several times a day and try to feed it in small portions. When a cat is hungry and busy eating, it will begin to associate the other cat with non-threatening situations.
- If both cats eat without becoming aggressive, you can bring the bowls closer each day.
- If the cat isn't eating or is becoming aggressive, it may be because the two are too close. Try again at a later date, this time setting the distance further.
Step 3. Restrict the two aggressive cats at opposite ends of the room
Use a cage or harness. You can do this in combination with other exposure therapies.
This entire process may take weeks or even months. Signs of anxiety or aggression usually indicate that the introduction process is being carried out too quickly. If the territorial aggression is still out of control, the vet may prescribe medication for both the attacker and the victim. Remember that medicine is only part of the solution; You have to give it along with a slow process of introductions and consistent rewards for good behavior
Method 5 of 6: Intervening in Extreme Cat Aggression
Step 1. Limit your cat's exposure to the outside world
You can install an electronic carpet that gives off a light, harmless vibration, or put sticky tape on the window sill. Blinds are also an effective barrier. You can prevent wild animals from approaching your home by installing sensor-driven automatic plant sprinklers, removing bird feeders, and using tightly closed trash containers.
Step 2. Gently use a muzzle cover or aggressive brood restraint
This situation is important when you need to take care of the kittens and the mother will not allow it. Be careful not to overstress any cat. You can use a blanket in certain situations. Remember that a cat's aggression stems from a deep caring instinct for its offspring.
Step 3. Interrupt aggression by clapping loudly, spraying a water gun, or blowing compressed air
If you let the cat fight back, you or both of you may be seriously injured, creating a greater chance of aggression later on. If left untreated, this aggression can develop into fear aggression.
Step 4. Don't physically punish the cat when it's angry
In fact, yelling can make the problem worse. Teach your cat to calm down by setting an example for him. Your own aggression can result in additional types of aggression in your cat.
Step 5. Remember that cats are much smaller than humans
Even though he can hurt you, you can do the same to him. When the cat is aggressive, do not force it toss. He may become cowardly or injured by it.
Step 6. Give yourself a break
When he plays too rough, end the game by leaving the room. Don't try to pick up the cat and move it to another room as this could trigger aggression. Relax. Don't let you have to chase him.
Step 7. Don't entertain the cat
Entertainment can indicate approval of aggressive behavior. Visitors should not run away or show fear as the cat will learn that it can drive them away. Ignoring the cat is a more effective strategy.
Method 6 of 6: Seeking Medical Help
Step 1. Sterilize the cat
Fertile male cats are especially prone to being aggressive towards each other. Spaying a cat is the best way to deal with this type of aggression. Although these males may still spray and be prone to other kinds of aggression, this typically resolves inter-male aggression.
Step 2. Resolve or reduce the pain
This is the best way to deal with aggression that stems from pain or trauma. Aggression triggered by pain, frustration, or annoyance can be directed at people, animals, and objects. All animals (and humans) can be aggressive when they feel sick. So even a normally docile and well-socialized cat can strike when in pain, when someone tries to touch an injured area, or when he's in pain and getting ready to be treated.
Step 3. Examine cats with aggression issues for any underlying medical problems
Painful ailments such as arthritis, toothache, and abscesses from fighting are common sources of pain-induced aggression. By diagnosing this problem quickly, you can prevent your cat from developing trauma-based aggression. Leaving a problem undiagnosed can make it worse.
- This cat's posture is usually defensive. A cat who doesn't like to be touched in painful areas may display pain aggression to try to stop you from holding him.
- This behavior can also be related to past trauma. For example, a cat whose tail is caught in a door may continue to try to protect the tail even after the pain has subsided.
Step 4. Treat the sick cat as gently as possible
Put on gloves when necessary and offer treats to allow your cat to associate the experience of being touched with a delicious meal. If your cat is aggressive while you're grooming her, don't reward her with kind words and petting; This shows that his aggressive behavior is allowed to continue. Stay calm so that the cat relaxes too.
Step 5. Ask your vet about medications that can help your cat cope with the pain
These drugs can also reduce aggression associated with pain. There is a wide variety of medications that are effective in reducing pain in cats. With the right prescription, you may be able to suppress his uncomfortable and aggressive feelings.
Step 6. Consult with your veterinarian or animal behaviorist to evaluate the best options for dealing with idiopathic aggression
Targeted aggression like this should be watched closely and not considered a potential cause before you make a diagnosis of idiopathy. Cats with idiopathic behavior problems are dangerous, and owners should thoroughly analyze the cat's quality of life, as well as the safety of those around him.
- Find ways to relieve your cat's stress.
- Re-evaluate the presence of cats in your home environment. However, make sure you are very careful when placing it in a new home; Don't let your problems move to someone else.
Step 7. Think about other factors before considering euthanizing a cat
Most cases of aggression do not require this method. Consider all other options before you decide to go for it.
- Aggression caused by disease may be a sign of great pain. When the problem cannot be resolved by medical treatment, you may be forced to choose the path of euthanasia for the cat. Talk to your vet to see if this is the best option, especially if cat grooming costs a lot or is unlikely to solve the problem.
- Idiopathic aggression includes any type of aggression with a cause that cannot be determined or explained by medical examination or behavioral history. Cats with this kind of aggression can attack their owners violently. He may bite repeatedly and remain angry for a long time. Talk to your veterinarian for advice on dealing with this type of aggression.
Tips
- If your cat is just a little aggressive and needs some exercise, take her for a walk on a leash. This is a safe way for outdoor adventures, especially for domestic cats. Make sure your cat always wears an identification tag on his collar. Cats may need a little time to get used to it. Take short walks first, then gradually increase the length of time.
- In some cases, a cat's aggression towards each other can stem from boredom. Change cat toys regularly to avoid this. Use old cardboard, paper bags, wrapping paper, and toys that encourage the cat to investigate. Cats also enjoy watching birds, squirrels, and other small animals. Set up an aquarium with live fish to keep the cat happy, or place a squirrel and bird feeder outside the window so he can watch the animals come and go throughout the day. You can also take advantage of cat videos. Videos like this one contain scenes of birds and small rodents. Many cats can watch the same video for hours each day to notice the movement of the animal in it, while growling or meowing and touching the screen.
