Chiffon material is very light, brittle, and slippery, making it one of the most difficult types of fabric to hem. You can hem the chiffon by hand or by machine, either way, you'll need to work slowly and carefully to make the seam as smooth as possible.
Step
Method 1 of 3: Method One: Hand Hemming Chiffon Material
Step 1. Make straight stitches along the rough edges
Thread a thin thread of the same color into the needle, and sew straight along the edge at a distance of 6mm from the edge.
- After sewing this line, trim the edges until they are 3mm away from the rough edges.
- This stitch will be at the bottom of the hem. This will help you to get an even and consistent crease.
Step 2. Fold the rough edges
Fold the rough edges against the back of the fabric. Press with an iron.
- Although not required, pressing the seams with an iron will prevent the seams from slipping out of the folds as you sew them.
- Fold your fabric so that the crease is not far from your initial stitch line. You will be able to see your initial seam along the underside of the fabric and not from the front.
Step 3. Thread a few strands of thread with your sewing needle
Hook a thread from your fabric and one small stitch from the edge of your fold. Pull the needle through both, but don't pull it tightly.
- Use a small, sharp sewing needle for best results. This will make it easier for you to thread the strands along your hem.
- The seam made at the crease should be as close to the crease as possible. Place the stitches between the initial stitch line and the crease of your fabric.
- The threads you thread from the fabric should be directly above the stitches you made in the crease. This thread should also be over any rough edges.
- Make sure you only hook one or two strands of yarn from the fabric. Hooking more will only cause your hem to show through the face of the fabric.
Step 4. Make a few more stitches in the same way
Each stitch should only hook into one or two threads of the fabric, and the stitches should be spaced approximately 6mm from each other.
Repeat until you have 2.5 to 5 cm of seam hem
Step 5. Pull the thread
Gently pull the thread toward your stitch. The rough edges will immediately fold into the hem, out of sight.
- Use enough pressure, but don't pull too hard. Pulling too hard will cause your fabric to shrivel.
- Smooth out any bubbles or lumps of fabric with your fingers.
Step 6. Repeat along the edge of the hem
Continue sewing along the edges in the same way until you reach the end. Tie the ends and cut off the excess thread.
- If you are familiar with this step, you can pull the thread every 10 to 13 cm instead of every 2.5 to 5 cm.
- If done correctly, the rough edges will be hidden within the back side of the fabric and the seam of the hem will not be visible from the front.
Step 7. Press with an iron when you're done
Your seams may already look smooth, but if you prefer, you can use an iron to press them down.
This step completes the creation process
Method 2 of 3: Method Two: Sewing Chiffon Material
Step 1. Sew a basting stitch around the rough edges
Use your sewing machine to sew an equal line 6mm from the rough edge of your chiffon fabric.
- This line will be your guide, making the hem easier to tie. It also helps the edges of the fabric, making it a bit tighter and easier to fold later.
- Consider adding a higher level of seam pressure for this basting. Return to the original settings after this line is complete.
Step 2. Fold and press
Facing the rough edge against the back of the fabric, fold it along the basting line. Press with an iron to keep it in position.
- Holding the fabric slightly tight along the basting will make it easier for you to fold the edges while pressing them with the iron.
- Move the iron up and down, rather than moving it left and right, to prevent the fabric from stretching or sliding when you press it.
- Use lots of steam as you press the crease.
Step 3. Sew to the inside of the folded edge
Use your sewing machine to sew one more line around the edges of the chiffon fabric. This line will be 3mm apart from the folded edge.
This line will serve as another guide line, making it easier for you to fold the edge of the hem once more
Step 4. Smooth out any rough edges
Use sharp scissors to trim the rough edges as close as possible to the stitch line you just created in the previous step.
Make sure you don't cut the underlayment or cut the seams when you finish this step
Step 5. Fold the hem line
Fold the fabric back facing the back, just enough to fold the rough edges underneath. Press these folds with an iron.
The second stitch line you create should be folded in this step. Your first stitch line will still be visible
Step 6. Sew the center of the folded hem
Gently sew along the hem, around the edges of your hem line, until you reach the end of the line.
- You will not be able to see the seam from the back side and you will be able to see a line from the front side.
- You can use either straight stitch or edge stitch for this step.
- Do not sew back your hem. Leave enough thread at the beginning and end of the stitch to finish the stitch by making a knot by hand.
Step 7. Press the hem
Iron your hem again to flatten the hem as much as possible.
This step completes the creation process
Method 3 of 3: Method Three: Hemming Chiffon with Sewing Machine Hems
Step 1. Place the hem on your sewing machine
Follow the instructions provided on your sewing machine to replace your machine shoe, swapping your regular sewing shoe for a seam shoe.
Choose your shoe hem carefully if you don't already have one. The best type to use will allow you to sew the hem with a straight, serrated, or embellished seam. For this project, you will only need hems for straight stitches
Step 2. Sew a few lines with a straight stitch
Lower the shoe onto the fabric without inserting the fabric into the toe. Sew in standard 1.25 to 2.5 cm stitches, 6 mm apart from the rough edge.
- Leave a long thread after sewing this line. The two stitch lines and the taped thread will help you sew with the shoe hem.
- Don't fold your fabric just yet at this step.
- Sew along the edges on the back side.
Step 3. Insert your fabric on the shoe hem
Pay attention to the seam guide on the front of your heel. Insert the edge of the fabric into the guide, bending the rough edge of one side with the other side underneath.
- Keep the heel up while you insert the fabric, then lower the heel when you're done.
- Getting the material into the shoe hem can be difficult. Use the thread that sticks to your little basting to help lift, guide, and move the edges of the fabric into the shoe hem.
Step 4. Sew along the hem
With the edge tucked into the heel and the shoe lowered, sew slowly and carefully along the edge of the chiffon fabric, stopping only when you have reached the end of the edge.
- If the edges of the fabric are inserted into the shoe hem correctly, the shoe hem will continue to fold the fabric along the seam. No additional effort is needed.
- With your right hand, grip the remaining rough edges firmly as you sew, so that they fit into the heel evenly.
- Do it slowly and carefully to prevent bubbles or lumps on the fabric. When you're done, the edges of the hemmed fabric should be smooth.
- Do not sew your fabric back. But leave enough thread at the beginning and end of the stitch and tie the thread with your hands.
- You will only see one stitch line from the front and back of the fabric.
Step 5. Press with an iron
Once your hem is complete, take your fabric to iron and press gently, straightening it until it's flat.
This step completes the creation process
Tips
Tips
- Since chiffon is a very light material, the thread you use to hem should also be thin and light.
- Consider giving your chiffon a spray to stabilize the fabric before you work on it. The fluid that stabilizes the fabric will make your fabric stiffer and easier for you to cut and sew.
- Leave the chiffon fabric for 30 minutes after you cut it. This is done to give the fibers of the fabric room to return to their previous shape just as you start sewing the fabric.
- Make sure the needles on your sewing machine are new, sharp, and very thin. Use size 65/9 or 70/10 for best results.
- Your stitch spacing should be fairly short when you hem by hand. Space between 12 and 20 stitches every 2.5 cm.
- To prevent chiffon from snagging into the pinhole on the sewing machine, use straight seam plates whenever possible.
- When you place the chiffon under the shoe hem, take the two threads from the top and bottom of the fabric with your left hand and pull it behind the machine. Sew slowly and start sewing by stepping on the machine pedal or by turning the draw wheel a few times. This will prevent your fabric from snagging under the machine.
