A warehouse will solve the problem of storing outdoor tools and equipment. The shed will be a great place to work on projects without making the garage messy. To create a basic warehouse, follow the instructions below.
It should be noted that what is discussed in this article is warehouse planning of a certain type, but you can modify it to suit your needs.
Step
Step 1. Level the ground (if needed) and install dowels in a grid to support the barn floor
The pegs will be the supporting structure for the beams under the barn floor. In a simple design, the pegs are spaced 1.8 m on one side and 1.2 m apart to produce a 3.6 x 2.4 m grid. This is a convenient size as you will need exactly 3 sheets of 1.2 x 2.4 m plywood to cover.
Note that in some countries, you must obtain a permit before undertaking foundation work. If you prefer not to apply for a permit, you can build a shed above ground using beams (see below) which are allowed to be placed on the ground without a permit measuring 102x152 mm using precast concrete
Step 2. Install the support beams on top of the pegs in a longitudinal direction
The beams will support your floor mounted in the opposite direction. The easiest way to attach the joists to dowels is with a metal plate fastener that already has holes for nails. In this design example, the beam used is a 3.6 m long 10X15 cm beam.
Step 3. Install the rim beams on the support beams and separate them according to the blocks
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First you need to install the rim beams along the outer edges of each outer support beam; Each rim beam must be the same length as the supporting beam below it.
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Then, you need to install the floor joists in the opposite direction along the support beams. The length should be as long as the distance between the rim beams so this beam goes between the two rim beams. In this design example, the floor joists are 36.25 cm apart except for the outermost one, which is 34.9 cm from the previous beam; this distance allows a standard sheet of plywood to align with the outer edge of the outer beam but overlap half of the interior of the beam, and subsequent beams will be able to support the other plywood.
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To keep the floor joists in place, attach the joist pieces blocking or the center beam between each pair of floor joists along the center of the support beams.
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Step 4. Nail the plywood sheets to the floor joists to become the flooring
If necessary, use H clips as additional reinforcement in addition to nails; mounted between two sheets of plywood and locking them together to strengthen the structure. In the design example, two sheets of 1.2 x 2.4 m plywood were used whole and one third was sawn in half and used to fill in the remaining 1.2 m of flooring at both ends. Due to the designed spacing between the posts, support beams and floor joists, no additional cuts or adjustments are required. Note that the arrangement of the plywood sheets is intentionally "shuffled" so that the floor does not have a single sheet of wood covering the entire floor, which would be a significant structural weakness.
Floors can also be bolted with floor bolts measuring 7.5 cm
Step 5. Build the frame to the four sides of the wall
To take into account that the front and back walls will be different (due to the door frame on the front wall) and the side walls will have to be tilted (to avoid rain pooling on the roof), each wall will be handled a little differently. It's easier to build the back wall first, then the front wall, and the last two side walls, as shown in the numbered figure below. See the article How to Build a Wall Frame for more detailed information before you read the instructions below.
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Build a frame for the back wall. Make the top and back beams (or slabs) the same length as the base floor. To keep the measurement simple, the distance between the vertical posts or wall posts is the same as the distance between the floor beams, remember that the back wall must be lower than the front wall so that the roof slopes backwards and avoids rainwater pooling in front of the barn door.
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Build the frame for the front wall. The front wall should be the same as the back wall but taller and have a door frame so you can install the barn door once you're done.
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Build a frame for the side walls. The base plates of each sidewall must be the same length as the distance between the base plates of the front and back walls (so the sidewalls will fit between them). The standard distance between vertical wall joints in the US is 20 cm (from axle to axle, not edge to edge); because it is rare that these posts do not diverge completely into the total distance between the two sidewalls in the design example, the two outer joints will differ i.e. slightly closer to the direct connection next to them. Most importantly, the top plate will be angled so that the roof is also sloping, which makes the height of each wall post slightly different. If you are not sure about calculating the height required by each vertical post at the beginning, then make the two outermost vertical posts first, place them properly spaced, cut the top plate that extends along that distance, then cut each remaining vertical joint individually based on the distance between the top and bottom plates at their exact location.
Image - Assemble the structure of the four walls. The wall structure is usually nailed to the supports from the bottom up. However, if this is not possible with your chosen design, simply nail it down through the plywood and floor joists or by driving the nail down at an angle. Note that you may need someone else's help to hold the wall structures together until they are glued together.
Step 6. Install the rafters/roof beams and separate them from the middle beam
The beams will support your shed roof for increased protection against the weather. Again the size will be very simple, if you space the roof beams like floor beams. When you have finished installing the roof joists, place the piece of roof joist between each pair of roof joists along the top plate.
Step 7. Nail the plywood sheets to the roof joists to form the roof
If you add a roof overhang, the arrangement of the plywood sheets will be different from the arrangement for the floor.
Step 8. Cover the wall
You can use planks, textured plywood, or anything else that can cover the walls of your shed.
Step 9. Add tar paper to the roof
Starting at the lower end of the sloping roof, working your way up, making sure each piece of paper stacks on the bottom to prevent rainwater from entering through cracks or gaps between the tar paper. You can also use shingles or other roof covering materials.
Tips
- Ramps are better than stairs because you'll be able to push the equipment with wheels to get in and out of the shed with ease.
- If you're planning to finish the inside of the shed, you'll need to add planks at each corner as a surface for nailing.
- You can install fiberglass to produce natural lighting in the warehouse.
- Click the picture to get the best picture. Some information is missing in the thumbnail image.
- Provide air circulation for your warehouse
- Don't skimp on windows
- Choose a good placement location. There are two types of warehouse construction; who chose the location on aesthetic grounds and who chose the first available spot. Unfortunately neither of these are effective ways to choose the location of your warehouse construction.
What You Need
- Floor beams (see article link in Step 1)
- 16d nails for frame
- 8d nails for plywood sheet
- Support beam 10 x 15 cm
- Beams 5 x15 cm for floor beams, roof beams and center beams
- 2 cm plywood for floor
- Beams 5x10 cm for wall posts and slabs
- Beam 10x10 cm for front frame
- 127 mm plywood for roof
- Textured plywood (or plank) for walls
- Tar paper for the roof
Warning
- If you haven't already, survey and mark your property
- Don't nail your finger!
- Check the zoning in your location to see if building a warehouse is allowed.
- Before you start construction check the local regulations at your city's building department to see if you need a permit to build this shed.
