Many problems and solutions that can be experienced by bicycle brakes. This article will attempt to review common problems with caliper-type brake systems and will briefly mention torpedo brakes.
Step
Method 1 of 6: Checking the Calipers
Step 1. Check the brake lining
The first thing you should check is whether the brake pads are too worn to work effectively. Between the clamp and the tire there is at least 0.6 cm of rubber (brake lining) when the calipers are used to brake the bicycle. If the brake pads are worn, you will need to replace them.
Step 2. Check the cable
Squeeze the brake handle and make sure the cable moves. If it doesn't move, your cable may get caught in the cable housing or the clamp on the brake handle may also be loose.
Step 3. Make sure the caliper moves as the cable pulls
Squeeze the brake lever and watch the calipers close and open or have someone else do it while you watch. If the cable on the brake handle moves and the end on the caliper does not, the cable in the cable housing may be damaged and the entire cable assembly must be replaced.
Step 4. Observe the caliper to make sure both sides are clamping the bicycle wheel
If one side is jammed, only one brake lining is in contact with the wheel, making braking ineffective. You may have to loosen the bolts that secure the calipers to the bike to free up the mechanism. A little quality lubricating oil will help lubricate these moving parts.
Method 2 of 6: Replacing Brake Pads
Step 1. Buy new brake pads
If you know the make and model of your bike, a bike shop may be able to provide you with the right brake pads for your bike. Common brake pads are available in stores at a discount, but usually these discounts only apply to inexpensive bikes.
Step 2. Remove the nuts and washers from the old brake lining and remove the brake lining from the caliper arm
On most bicycles, this can be done without removing the calipers from the bicycle frame. If the caliper needs to be removed to allow room to work, remove the nut on the top center of the caliper, slide out the assembly, and replace the nut on the protrusion without disassembling the assembly. This holds all rings, spacers and caliper arms in the correct position when working.
Step 3. Install the new brake lining while being careful to keep the surface of the brake lining original or level with the tire
To prevent the brake lining from squeaking, lower the brake pad slightly so that the rear edge first makes contact with the wheel. Make sure the brake pad height is near the center of the metal rim of the wheel. Brake pads that are installed too low can slide off the rim, causing a dangerous condition. If installed too high, the brake lining will rub against the sidewall of the tire. It is also undesirable.
Method 3 of 6: Servicing the Cable
Step 1. Lubricate the caliper pivot
Step 2. Check the brake cable arrangement
When the brakes are not applied they should be about 0.6 cm from the wheel rim and when the brake lever is squeezed the brakes should be in full contact at about half the distance the handle will move.
Step 3. Lubricate the cable
You can use the grease in an aerosol can with a hole to squirt oil into the cable housing at the pipe ring where the cable enters the housing under the brake lever. A mild engine oil with the same small nozzle as an all-purpose oil or special brake cable oil purchased at a bicycle shop is highly recommended. WD-40 and similar products can rinse the manufacturer's lubricating oils from cables and when they evaporate, very little oil remains on the cables.
Step 4. Remove the cable from the sheath only when it is very stiff or difficult to operate
This is done by releasing the clamp on the caliper or brake handle and is done on the opposite end. If you disconnect the cable, use an aerosol solvent (or WD-40) to rinse any dirt or dust from the cable opening once the cable has been removed. Apply a small amount of lithium grease or engine oil to the cable and reinstall it if it is not damaged.
Step 5. Tie the loose end of the cable with the clamp on the end you removed earlier and check the clearance (distance of the brake handle that can be squeezed before the brake makes contact with the wheel)
When the brake lining is about 0.6 cm from the wheel with the brake handle removed, tighten the clamp.
Step 6. Replace any of the cables or the entire cable assembly if the above steps do not solve the problem of cables not moving when the brakes are applied
Purchase a cable that has the same diameter as the manufacturer and is the same length as the original. Fitting the pipe bracelet, cutting the cable to the right length, and securing the cable piece with pliers through clamps are difficult tasks.
Method 4 of 6: Servicing the Brake Handle
Step 1. Check that the cable clamp under the brake handle is tight
Step 2. Lubricate the pivot pin on the brake handle
Method 5 of 6: Servicing the Calipers
Step 1. Make sure the calipers are placed in the center of the wheel
Step 2. Make sure the springs are tightened together on each caliper arm
When you squeeze the brake lever, each side of the caliper should advance toward the same wheel. If one side has more movement than the other, you need to make sure the arms move freely and are adequately lubricated. Tighten the spring on the side that moves the most by bending the spring with a pair of pliers. Be careful not to scratch or damage the spring.
Method 6 of 6: Torpedo Brake
Step 1. Turn the pedal backwards if your bike is equipped with torpedo brakes
The pedal should only move 1/4 turn and the brakes should work. This occurs inside the rear axle housing and servicing is not recommended for beginners.
Step 2. Check the brake arm
In Bendix-type torpedo brakes, the brake arm is a flat iron arm attached to the rear axle as opposed to the chain clamped to the underframe. Check that the clamp is loose enough to allow the brake arm to rotate about that axis. If the brake arm comes off, re-clamp the brake arm that is facing the front of the bicycle.
Tips
- Wheels that are installed incorrectly will often make the brakes rub against each other. In fact you may not have any brake problems at all.
- Don't buy smaller brake pads.
- If all else fails or if you don't know what you're doing, take your bike to a bike mechanic.
- If you're not sure how to install or remove brake pads, don't do it. Ask someone else for help who knows how.
- Read the manual.
Warning
- Drive slowly to test the brakes.
- Tighten the new brake pads firmly so that they operate efficiently.
