There's a certain satisfaction in making your own something you use every day, and a fence is a great starting project. Building a wooden fence requires very little equipment or skill, relatively easy even for a beginner. If you can build your own fence, it will certainly save you a lot of money. To build a wooden fence, start with Step 1 below!
Step
Method 1 of 2: Ensuring Success
Step 1. Find information about restrictions in your local environment
Before you build it, it is very important to know that your fence is not illegal! If there is a prohibition against building a fence in your neighborhood or city, it could be that your hard work can later be torn down just like that. Check with the planning department and local agencies concerned, before you go too far.
Step 2. Apply for a permit
Most cities require a building permit to erect a fence (IMB/Building Permit). This is to keep you out of trouble. Many of the power, gas, sewer, and water lines are buried underground where you might be digging. When you apply for a permit, the local/city government will check and tell you where to dig more carefully.
Step 3. Select the required material
Of course you want to make sure you're using a durable type of wood, right? If you use the best types of wood and handle it well, your picket fence can last up to 20 years or more. On the other hand, choosing the wrong wood may only make your fence last 5 years. Consult your local timber agency/agencies to find out the best type of wood in your area, but processed wood is always the best choice.
Step 4. Determine the fence model
There are many different models of wooden fences. Do a little research before you start so you don't regret it in the end! There are fence models in the form of posts, lattice/grid, curved (concave/convex), boards nailed to the board, fences for privacy, and many other models with many variations on each model. Each model also has specifications for how the fence should be erected and placed.
This article is general in nature and can be widely applied to many fence models. However, you may want to find something specific to your fence model to complete the following hints
Method 2 of 2: Making Fence Construction
Step 1. Know your property/land boundaries
Decide where your land boundary is before you start making the fence, so you don't (accidentally) overstep the line. Usually, when a permit is applied for, the city planner will include information about the boundaries of your land. However, you can also consult with neighbors or other parties involved in your land/building documents.
Step 2. Determine the height of the fence
Choose a fence height before you go too far with this project. Six feet (±1.8 meters) is the normal height for a private fence, four feet (±1.2 meters) for cattle fences is normal, and post fences are often three feet (±0.9 meters). In the early stages determining the height of the fence is very important, because it will determine other things such as the depth of the post hole, etc.
Step 3. Fix the main posts at the corners of the location
Place the posts at the corners where you would like your fence to be.
Step 4. Mark each corner of the ground
Tie a rope to the poles and then pull it through each pole. Use a right angler or square level tool to ensure that the angle at which the posts are driven is at right angles (both sides form a 90° angle).
You can also mark the angle of the elbow by measuring the length of the rope. Measure 3 meters on one side and 4 meters on the other. If the diagonal distance between the two points is 5 meters, then the angle is a right angle
Step 5. Drive the post between the two corner posts
After you've marked the corners, along the rope measure 8 feet (±2.44 meters) or less in length, then stake a post to indicate the location of the support posts.
- Usually you need to calculate the total distance and then divide by 8 (±2.44 meters). But if the length of your fence is not divisible by 8, you will need to break it up into smaller pieces. For example, a fence that is 24 feet (±7.32 meters) long requires 2 posts in the middle to produce three sections that are 8 feet (±2.44 meters) long, but a fence of 25 feet (±7.62 meters) will requires 3 pillars in the center with a distance between the sections of 6.25 feet (±1.91 meters), so that it looks flat and structurally strong.
- There are times when the fence has an odd length. To find the number of intermediate posts, round up the number of intermediate posts (i.e. dividing the length of the fence by 8 feet/2.44 meters). Then to find the distance between the posts, divide the total length of the fence by the rounding result.
Step 6. Dig a hole
Use a punching tool (drill/drill) to dig holes at the locations you have specified/marked. A fence post needs to be planted at least 33% of its height (example: a fence post 8 feet or ±2.44 meters high requires a hole of 2.5 feet or ±0.76 meters deep), so the hole you make will require an additional depth of approx. a few centimeters.
- The hole should be wide enough so that there is enough space around it when you plug the post in.
- Since soil conditions vary, and the influence of fence height, fence model, and various other factors must be considered in determining how posts should be planted, you will need to calculate the depth of the hole.
Step 7. Attach the post to the hole
Insert gravel with a diameter of ±7-10 cm into the bottom of the hole. Next insert the pole into the hole, making sure it is parallel and perpendicular. Check to see that the corners are still right, use a tool to make sure that the posts are perfectly straight, and also make sure that they are the right height.
Step 8. Pour the concrete as a footing / seat
Carefully hold the post in the correct position, then pour the instant concrete mixture into the hole up to 2/3 of the hole. Pour the water over the top and use a stick to stir the mixture. Support the post so that it stays in place. If necessary, to stabilize the position of the pole you can use a board nailed to the pole. Allow the concrete mix to proceed according to the manufacturer's instructions.
Step 9. Fill the hole with soil
Fill the remaining hole with soil as soon as the concrete is set.
Step 10. Install the builder lines
Draw a building line from one post to another at the same height from the ground, preferably at the top of the pile (if the posts are positioned correctly). These lines will help you keep the fence height the same throughout the distance.
Step 11. Install the backing board
Backing board is another name for horizontal board. Cut the support boards/horizontals for the bars measuring 2x4 inches, to the correct length according to the distance from one post to the other. If you can, use single bars for the entire length of the fence section. The bars should be no more than 60 cm so that each fence will have 2-3 bars. Attach the bars using screws.
Step 12. Install the privacy board
Privacy board is another name for vertical board. With privacy boards, you can hide the stakes. There are many different models and ways to apply it, depending on what kind of fence you want. The most basic method is “board on board”, where vertical boards are nailed (using a nail gun) to the support/horizontal boards, with the spacing between the boards less than the width of the boards. Use tools to maintain consistent spacing between boards. Then, put another board on it and strengthen it with nails.
- Usually sawmill boards are 1x6 in size, but you can buy other types of boards that have been cut.
- If you are nailing the boards manually (by hand), use 8d (2.5 inches or ±65 mm) galvanized spiral rivets.
Step 13. Board treatment
As soon as you have finished installing all the boards, you will need to give the boards special treatment to increase the life of the fence. You can paint your fence, treat stains/dirt, or apply a weather-resistant coating, to keep your fence looking good for years to come. Enjoy!
The coating material usually contains either silicone solids or linseed oil. If you plan to use paint as a coating, use an oil-based coating, and for the final coat use an oil-based polyurethane (PU) paint or enamel paint for the exterior
Tips
- Always contact the law enforcement office in your city to educate you on the regulations/regulations regarding fence construction in your area. Rest assured that the regulation exists, the question is what is the content of the regulation.
- Sloping the top of the post or covering it with a vinyl or metal hood/cover will prevent the pole from absorbing moisture and will help it last longer.
- Soaking the bottom of the post in linseed oil or applying a coat/base coat is a must.
- Processed wood with the preservative CCA (Chromated Copper Arsenate) has been removed from the market due to reports of adverse effects. Processed wood with regular ACQ (Alkaline Copper Quaternary) preservatives would be better, but be sure to give the embedded pile additional treatment as described above. The types of wood mentioned above are also very good because they are resistant to rot, usually having the same resistance as processed pine or spruce. Most types of wood are also easy to paint, however, you should use a type of wood that is declared resistant and/or treated.
- If you are going to build a fence on the land line, discuss it with your neighbors first, to decide if they have any objections and make sure you agree with the land line. If you have problems with land boundaries, you can ask a professional surveyor for help. You should also discuss with the statutory supervisor, as your city or state may require a valid written statement of land boundaries.
- 4x4-inch poles tend to twist and bend-especially in certain climates where humidity is high. A possible way to do this is to use two 2x4 inch pieces of wood joined together instead of 4x4 inch wood. Two planks tend to stabilize each other, so that it becomes a pillar that stands upright.
- Use suitable wood for your posts and fences. Processed wood with CCA preservatives is known to be resistant to insects and decay. Some rot-resistant woods come in various grades, for example aromatic fan spruce, and Christmas spruce.
- Installing a fence in hilly areas, or on steep ground can be very difficult. Install posts at locations where grade/slope changes occur, and determine the average height of the fence for best performance. If your ground has more than two elevation changes, you will need the help of a professional.
- Use screws as nails will not hold up in an aging picket fence.
- Always contact the office that handles utilities to ask them to bookmark your page where the utility grid is installed, even if you don't have any utilities (cable, electricity, gas, telephone, etc.) can kill your neighbors.
- There are fences, posts and other materials made of vinyl that are maintenance-free and weather-resistant.
Warning
- Make sure you know the boundaries of your property before you build a fence.
- Wear safety glasses and gloves, when both are needed.
- Know the location of the utility grid and/or fire suppression system paths before digging holes for fence posts. You may need to contact all utility companies separately for them to come and show you the network location. However, in certain areas, people only need to call one number to address all utility networks.
- Manually digging holes in hard or rocky soil can be a challenge. Hole digging tools (drills/drills) are available at the shop or tool rental shop, but they may be dangerous (for rocky soil).
- Check in your jurisdiction for licensing requirements before you build a fence. Some homeowners' associations have guidelines or rules regarding fence construction.
