Buying pearls is not as easy as choosing the most beautiful – if you are looking for quality. There are many things to consider when choosing a pearl to buy, including where it grows, its overall size and appearance, and how it was grown. To make sure you get a good pearl purchase, study the essential qualities and styles of pearls available in the market.
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Method 1 of 3: Selecting the Type
Step 1. Choose a growth style
Pearls are grown through a process where small deposits – sand or shells – are introduced into the oyster. The oysters are then coated with a shiny discharge called “nacre”. Over time, the nacre grows to form a pearl. Where pearls originally could be found in abundance in oysters in the ocean, they can now be grown in laboratories. As such, there are two general types of pearl growing: natural and cultured.
- Natural pearls are quite rare and thus very expensive. Natural pearls look exactly like cultured pearls, the difference being that they are grown "accidentally" in "wild" oysters.
- Cultured pearls are made by planting sand in an oyster, and waiting for it to grow. Most pearls that can be purchased are cultured. It looks exactly like a natural pearl, but is man-made.
Step 2. See freshwater pearls versus seawater
Freshwater pearls are very different from seawater pearls; Freshwater pearls are grown in mussels, whereas seawater pearls are grown in oysters. Freshwater pearls can come in a variety of shapes, colors, and lusters, but are usually found in “odd” shapes – not smooth and natural looking, and no larger than 7mm. Brine pearls come in many forms and can get quite large. Seawater Muriara is distinguished by the location of the world/type of oyster where it grows.
- Freshwater pearls can be found in round versions, but these are usually more expensive than odd-shaped ones.
- Freshwater and seawater pearls are available in almost all colors.
Step 3. Observe the Akoya pearl
The Akoya pearl, named after the Akoya oyster in Japan where it is grown, is an example of a classic pearl. Akoya pearls are usually milky white or rose in color, with silver or gold undertones. However, this pearl is also available in beige, mint green, and light blue. Most Akoya pearls range in size from 3mm to 10mm, and come in a classic round shape.
Step 4. Look at the black pearl of the South Sea
South Sea black pearls are grown in black-lipped oysters off the coast of Tahiti. Pearls from this area are known for their deep black color and large size. Most South Sea pearls start at 8mm, and larger. The most sought after color for this type of pearl is black with shades of peacock green. These pearls are also available in navy blue, silver and stone tones, dark purples, and dark greens, and may be shades of pink and blue.
Step 5. Look at the white pearls of the South Sea
Grown in silver-lipped oysters, South Sea white pearls can be found on the coasts of Tahiti and Okinawa. Similar to the black pearls that grow in the area, the South Sea white pearls are quite large and extremely lustrous. These pearls are not harvested before reaching a size of at least 9mm, making them slightly more expensive than the smaller white Akoya pearls. These pearls are usually found in white or silver, but may have rose tones.
Step 6. Look at the South Sea gold pearl
The rarest variety of pearls is the South Laur gold pearl. These pearls only grow in gold-lipped oysters found in the seas of Tahiti and the surrounding tropics. These pearls are quite large – starting at 9mm – and are prized for their unique coloration. These pearls come in colors from light champagne to bright gold, where gold is most sought after. Gold-lipped oysters can also produce white and cream pearls, but these look similar to those produced by silver-lipped oysters.
Step 7. Observe the Cortez pearl
Cortez pearls are a rare variety that grows in rainbow-lipped oysters off the coast of the Sea of Cortez in Mexico. These pearls are classified as black pearls, but come in a variety of rainbow colors. Cortez's most beautiful (and most iconic) pearls are pistachio green with bright rainbow shades (usually rose and gold). These pearls range in size from 8mm to 12mm.
Step 8. Look for conch pearls
Conch pearls (pronounced 'Konk') are not traditional pearls, as they are non-nacreal (the saliva-like fluid in oysters) and are formed in conch shells. Conch is a large mollusk in a spiral shell, found in the waters of the Caribbean and South Pacific. Conch pearls are very unique in their appearance. These pearls are found in light pink and peach colors, with a fire-like pattern on the exterior. The fire, similar to that found in opals, is what determines the price of the pearl. These pearls come in various shapes and sizes, but some are round.
Method 2 of 3: Quality Check
Step 1. Check the color
Color is the first thing you see in a pearl. While colors will vary widely depending on the type of pearl you're looking at, you should pay attention to two things: body color, and tone color. Body color is the primary color of the pearl, wherein shades are the sheen or color that “floats” on the pearl's surface. For example, a pearl might be white with shades of rose, or black with shades of green.
- Always check for pearl color against a white background, such as a piece of white velvet or other anti-glare fabric.
- Use a full spectrum beam when checking pearl color.
- If you are buying a string of pearls, always check the color of each pearl against the contrast of nearby pearls.
Step 2. Look at the shine
Similar to looking at the color of a pearl, luster refers to the glow/reflection of a pearl. The shinier the pearl, the more valuable it is. When examining a pearl's luster, see how its reflection is similar to a mirror, and how much light is reflected. The more similar the reflection the pearl gives, the higher its value.
- The luster is easy to check on round pearls, where it may be more difficult to check for oddly shaped pearls due to their multiple contours.
- Check all pearls to make sure the shine is the same on each side.
Step 3. Check the surface perfection
Perfectly round pearls are very small and mostly not smooth, with minor surface defects. You should check each pearl on the strand, looking for surface imperfections/defects. There may be stains, ditches, small bumps on the surface of the pearl. This is the result of other foreign bodies in the oyster brushing against the pearl while it is in the manufacturing process. Also, you should check to make sure the pearl defects are not removed. Sometimes pearls are 'worked' – sanded – to reduce surface defects, but this lowers their value. You can see if a pearl has been worked if there is a change in the shine or texture of a particular part.
Step 4. Consider size
The size of the pearl varies depending on the type of conditions in which it is grown, and the size of the original deposit in the center. Larger pearls are obviously more valuable than smaller ones, because they are rarer. The larger a pearl, the larger the original deposit, and the longer it will grow in the oyster. The size of a pearl varies from 3mm to 12mm, although you may find some smaller or larger than this. When examining a string of pearls, it is ideal if they are all the same size or similar.
Step 5. View the shape
There are many different shapes of pearls, the round ones are usually the most valuable because they are the most difficult to shape. However, the shape of a pearl is generally down to personal preference, as some styles of shapes are better suited to certain circumstances than others. Pearl shapes include:
- Spherical: perfectly spherical shape with no surface defects
- Imperfectly round: slightly wider on one side of the pearl, but not spherical. Pearls that are not perfectly round can easily be used in strands.
- Oval: round with a difference between length and width. One step further from imperfect round.
- Drop: egg-shaped with one rounded end, and the other slightly pointed.
- Buttons: pearls that are mostly round, with one or two asymmetrical arches.
- Mabe: round pearl with one flat side, creating a semicircle.
- Odd: 'natural' pearl with lots of bumps and asymmetrical curvature.
Step 6. Check for nacre
Nacre is the material secreted by the oyster that creates the pearl, when it is built on top of the core. The longer the pearl is in the oyster, the more nacre that builds up over time. As a result, high-nacre pearls are more sought after than low-nacre pearls. The high amount of nacre enhances the pearl's luster. You can see the pearl's nacre content if you can see the core bouncing on the inside, or if the exterior is easily removed by rubbing. The higher the nacre content of a pearl, the stronger it is.
Pearls that grow in shells and conch do not contain nacre
Step 7. Look for similarities in a strand
If you are buying a string of pearls as a set, it is very important that you find strands with pearls that are almost identical to each other. The more similar each pearl is on a strand, the more unified it looks. Compare and contrast each pearl up close, and look at each other from a certain distance. Pay attention to the overall color, size, shape, shine, and quality of each pearl's nacre as you compare.
The exception to this rule is a strange string of pearls; Pay attention to color and shine, not shape
Method 3 of 3: Selecting Strands
Step 1. Try buying loose strands
Loose pearl strands are pearls that have been drilled into beads, but have not yet been assembled into a necklace. As a result, loose pearl strands are the least expensive form, as it requires some effort to make it into a piece of jewelry. You can also buy loose, unpunched pearls for rings and earrings, with the same concept.
Step 2. Consider buying a choker
Chocker is the shortest strand of pearl necklace. It's designed so it's close to the base of the neck (so close it's choking). Chokers are usually 25-34 cm, depending on the wearer.
Step 3. Try buying empress strands
Empress necklaces are usually a favorite of pearl wearers. This necklace is associated with the classic and luxurious look of the 1940s, with a string of pearls hanging down just below the neck. Princess necklaces are usually 40-48cm long.
Step 4. Find the matinee necklace
The next step after the princess necklace, the matinee is saved for a semi-formal occasion and is slightly longer than the previous strand. Matinees usually vary between 50-60cm.
Step 5. Find the opera necklace
Strands of opera-style pearls are kept for formal occasions, due to their length (as well as high price). Opera necklace length varies from 76-91 cm, hangs just below the bust line
Step 6. Consider buying a strand of rope
The string of pearls is the longest, starting at 91cm and longer. The strands are worn folded or tied, giving the appearance of a double strand of pearls.
Step 7. Find an apron necklace
Apron-style necklaces usually consist of several strands of pearls of different lengths, attached to the same buckle. As a result of stacking, this necklace looks like an apron. Apron necklaces are usually used for semi-formal or formal events, because they are more striking.
Tips
- Perfectly round freshwater pearls are usually more difficult to harvest and account for less than 1% of all freshwater pearl cultivation.
- While freshwater pearls are more durable than “akoya,” they may not be as shiny in comparison, and fortunately, the price difference between freshwater pearls and akoya pearls is usually one decimal point, for example, “akoya” = $500, freshwater = $50.
- Freshwater pearls are grown in the mollusk “Hyriopsis cumingi” for 2-4 years.
Warning
- Dyed or dyed pearls should be relatively cheaper than pearls of natural color. Look for a statement of authenticity or a reputable brand.
- Before making a decision, ask to see a few strands of pearls with different surface qualities to help you understand profits and sales.
