The art of spinning is famous again in today's society. Individuals are again discovering the unique qualities of wool, the beloved spinning fiber. Wool is water resistant and will keep you warm even when wet. See step 1 to get started.
Step
Method 1 of 5: First Steps
Step 1. Select your equipment
You have to decide whether you prefer the drop spindle or the spinning wheel. Both have advantages and disadvantages of each. Oftentimes, the drop spindle is considered a very good method to use when you are just starting out, but spinning machines tend to be much quicker to spin.
- Using a drop spindle is a good way to get started and you can easily make your spin. When you have mastered the use of a drop spindle, you have mastered all the different spinning steps (pulling out the fibers, embroidering the fibers into yarn, and twisting them and storing the spun yarn).
- The best type of drop spindle for beginners is the threaded top of the drop spindle with a hook on top. It's sturdy enough to drop on the floor as you'll get used to it spinning.
- Spinning machines are more difficult to master than drop spindles, as they require pedals to operate at wheel speed and have more parts than drop spindles. However, once you are successful at spinning using a machine, you can spin much faster than using a drop spindle.
- Spinning machines work by rotating the coil using a drive. While you step on the pedal, the wheel spins and the pamphlet and reel also spin. You twist the fibers in your hands and wind them on a bobbin. You must change the bobbin speed in order to get the thread on the bobbin automatically. Different types of spinning machines can facilitate winding the yarn on the bobbin in different ways.
Step 2. Learn the term spinning process
Many words you may not know easily when you are just starting out. You just need to learn the words for different aspects of the spinning process before you start spinning.
- Roving is the binding of fibers that have been combed continuously and are ready to be spun.
- Combing or carding is when you are preparing to clean the wool but have not processed it with a hand comb or with a drum carder. The drum carder is a mechanical device, either rotated by hand or electric, so that the fiber comb is spun. The equipment you use by hand is usually a set of sticks with 1⁄4 inch (0.6 cm) curved metal serrations.
- A niddy-noddy is a two-headed apparatus used in winding spun yarn. Winding basically means winding yarn into a bobbin.
- A long skein or skein of yarn that has been coiled and tied loosely. When you spin, you want to make a skein of yarn.
Step 3. Get acquainted with the equipment
Spinning machines have the same basic equipment regardless of type. Some have more components than others, but usually the basic components are the same. You will need to remember the different parts of the spinning machine as you learn to spin.
- Flywheel is the part that rotates when you step on the pedal, causing the rest of the pieces to move. Not all machines are the same (or look like “fairytale” machines), but all spinning machines are the same type of machine.
- Drive band or drive band wrap fly wheel and flyer string (a pulley attached to the flyer and driven by a drive band. There are several different sizes on the leaflet thread that determine how fast the machine will spin) and pamphlet (a U-shaped piece of wood that is attached to one or both arms; the hook holds the thread in the bobbin). The drive band rotates the leaflet wrapped around the fiber.
- Handle for tightening adjust the voltage on the drive band by decreasing and increasing mother-of-all (which is the block that holds the flyer, bobbin, and handle for fastening).
- coil is what goes on the shaft along with the flyer, storing the yarn. It can run with or separately from the band drive. Orifice or hole is the opening of the end of the shaft through which the thread passes and is connected by a flyer hook.
- Treadle is a pedal that runs the engine and is used with your feet. This determines the speed of the spinning machine.
Step 4. Select the spinning machine
If you decide that you want to use a spinning machine instead of a drop spindle, then you should study the different types of spinning machines. If you're just starting out, it's a great way to rent or borrow a spinning machine, so you can try it out and decide what you really want. There are several different types of spinning machines.
- Saxony is an ancient or fairytale machine with an engine on one end, pamphlets on the other, a beveled frame, and three legs. These spinning machines tend to be more expensive.
- The castle wheel has a pamphlet located on top of the machine. They usually have three to four legs, but tend to be more compact than other types of machines. They are suitable for individuals who have a narrow workplace. In traditional machines, this is the least expensive.
- Norwegian wheel is the same as Saxony. They have three to four legs, large engines, and usually have ornamentation. They are also in the same price range as Saxony.
- Modern wheels often have a strange appearance because they are a mixture of other types of spinning machines. They often have better engines than other types and some are foldable! For the price, it depends on the engine, but they are usually cheaper than the previous machines.
- Electric spinners are great because you don't have to worry about pedals or engines (they don't have them). They are placed on the table and used manually and are easy to carry and store. They also tend to be less expensive than regular spinning machines.
- The spindle wheel does not have a pamphlet and a bobbin. Instead, the ends are pointed in both windings and accumulate spun yarn. They are also slightly more expensive than a typical spinning machine.
Step 5. Know what you are looking for in a spinning machine selection
There are several things you should consider when you are choosing a spinning machine. This will determine the type of yarn you will spin, the speed at which you will spin, and how easy the pedal is to use.
- The speed of your machine (the “cogs” on the pedal) determines how fast your yarn winds. Fine fibers such as Merino and angora wool or shorter fibers such as cotton require higher speeds. Coarse fibers like Romney or Border Leicester require lower speeds. It is very good to find a spinning machine that has a speed in between so that it can be more flexible.
- In single drive engines, the drive rotates the engine once. Then, it is worked around the drive pulley on the flyer or bobbin. A dual drive engine also uses one drive but works on the engine twice. The single actuator is easier for beginners to use, as it has a separate disconnect system. When you have to change the coil speed, this is easier to do on a single drive engine (because these are separate). On a dual drive engine, you have to increase the speed.
- The coil capacity depends on the manufacturer. No one fits all coils. The best way to compare bobbin capacities is to calculate the volume of bobbins available for spinning yarn. Many manufacturers have a choice of different coil sizes.
Method 2 of 5: Preparing the Wool
Step 1. Select your fleece
Try and get a fleece that has just been sheared, as the fat makes the wool softer. You will also need to keep a few things in mind when choosing your fleece. This includes what kind of yarn you want to produce, colors, and defects in the fleece that will make your spinning experience difficult!
- Think about what you plan to do with the finished spun yarn. Are you going to make socks? Weave? Knitting? Making outerwear? Different types of fleece have different levels of softness, which will affect you when you choose which fleece to spun.
- Watch for certain defects in the fleece that will hinder your spinning. Avoid buying damaged fleece. If you pull hard on the clog on the fleece and it breaks (usually in the middle), this will cause tiny bubbles to form on the roving and make your yarn thinner. Fleece's plant-based properties make it difficult to comb and clean (if you enjoy combing fleece and have the time, you'll experience it, but otherwise it's better not to).
- Check the part of your fleece that tears quickly. Spread the fleece and examine at least three different areas (eg, thighs, shoulders, sides). You want to make sure that one area is no more rough and hairy than the other.
- The machine-to-pamphlet comparison determines the type of yarn that can be spun. A machine that has a medium or large yarn ratio will be used to spin the wool, so your yarn size will depend on your machine.
Step 2. Wash in hot water
Often you wash the fleece before combing and spinning it. This is to remove fat, which can make it difficult for you to spin. Although you can wash in cold water, it is recommended that you use hot water. You want the water to be hot enough to be uncomfortable, but not so hot that you can't wash the wool.
- Use a large tub or basin. You can divide it into sections to make it easier to wash properly, so you don't have to clump the fleece.
- Some hand spinners like to leave the grease (called “spinning in the fat”) and wait to clean the fibers when setting to spin them into yarn. However, leaving grease can make it difficult for you to dye and can damage the fibers of the fabric on the drum carder.
Step 3. Add a cup of detergent
You can only use detergent as long as it doesn't contain bleach or added conditioner. Conditioner can leave cobweb-like marks on the fleece.
- Do not completely remove the fat from the fleece. Removing too much natural fat can make it difficult to spin (this is why some traditional hand spinners spin with oil and water).
- You also want to make sure that you don't use too much detergent that you will have to wash the fleece ten times until all the suds come out. Excessive and vigorous washing can turn the fleece into a flannel, which you want to avoid.
Step 4. Soak the fleece for 45 minutes
You'll want to soak the fleece in water to prevent dirt, grease, and other unwanted things from getting into it. Leaving it submerged means that you won't accidentally turn it into a flannel.
Do not let running water directly hit the fleece
Step 5. Press the fleece gently into the water
You will need to stir the fleece gently, with your hands or a wooden spoon. Remember, shaking too much will turn the fleece into a flannel.
Step 6. Rinse and repeat
Each time you rinse the wool, make sure that the temperature is the same as before. The more exposed your area is when rinsing the fleece in water, the fewer wash/rinse cycles you will have. Depending on how dirty, or how soft the wool is you may need to do more wash/rinse cycles.
- Soak the fleece in hot water with one and a half cups of white vinegar for 30 minutes, for the final rinse.
- Mohair, merino, rambouillet, and other softer wools tend to require repeated washing.
Step 7. Let dry
Squeeze the wet wool gently. Spread it on a towel rack or drying rack, or hang it on your patio railings. If you can put them outside to dry, do so. The best weather for drying wool is hot and windy.
Step 8. Comb the fleece using the method of your choice
Comb in line with the fibers in one direction. This will make it smoother so it will be easier to arrange. You can send it to the factory, using a drum card, or a hand comb. Consider using a metal dog comb, a less expensive option.
- If you're using a combing wand (a good one, easy to use), take a clean piece, dry the fleece and hang the piece one way. With the other wand, you'll gently rub across the fibers, aligning them in the same direction. When the fleece becomes smooth and aligned, place the piece aside.
- It doesn't matter what type of sweeping you do, the basic principle is the same. You're trying to align the fibers in the same direction, whether you're doing this with a metal dog comb, with a stick, or with a drum card.
- One thing that individuals tend to do wrong is over-combing their fleece. Your goal is to make the fleece look neat, smooth, and aligned. You don't need to beat the fibers until they're soft.
- Make sure that the wool is dry. Fleece is amazing in its ability to hold water, and wet fleece cannot be combed properly.
Method 3 of 5: Spinning with a Drop Spindle
Step 1. Gather your tools to make a drop spindle
One of the best things about drop spindles is that they are relatively easy to build and use. If you decide to use it, then you can make your own without spending a lot of money. Collect the materials listed below.
- Wooden pegs 1 foot long. While size doesn't really matter, the recommended diameter size is 3/8 inch. This will serve as the main shaft on the coil.
- Hooks, or wires that can be bent into hooks. You'll make sure to hook your yarn on this hook.
- Two hard CDs, working as threads.
- Rubber grommets or rubber rings that match the diameter of the wooden pegs. You can get it at a farm shop or car shop. So if the wooden dowel diameter is 3/8 inch, the inside hole (hole diameter) should be 3/8 inch, the hole panel should be 5/8 inch to fit the CD hole, and the outside diameter should be about 7/8 inch.
- Get a serrated knife, or a small saw and scissors to cut wooden pegs.
Step 2. Insert the hook into the top of the wooden dowel
To do this, you will need to punch a hole in the center of the wooden dowel with a pushpin. Screw the hook into the hole so that it is firm.
Step 3. Insert the ring into the hole between the two CDs
You want the ring right in the middle of the CD. This can be a little annoying because it's so tight, but once you've pulled the sides of the ring up it should be good to go.
Step 4. Slide the wooden peg into the center of the ring
As long as you've assessed the size correctly, you should be able to finish building your drop spindle. If it doesn't fit well enough, wrap the wooden pegs with electrical tape until the wood and CD are firmly in place.
Step 5. Prepare your roving
For beginner spinners, a roving thread will be too large. Separate into sections about 12 inches (30.5 cm) long. Be careful about splitting your roving to make two lanes instead of one. This will make spinning easier if you are just starting out.
Step 6. Tie your starting end
Your starting end is a thread about 18 inches (45.7 cm) long that is tied to the bobbin axis above the thread (CD). Place the thread over the thread and wind it around the shaft below it. Place it back on the loop and hook the end to the hook.
Step 7. Spin the fibers
Let the bobbin hang under your hand, hanging by the starting end, take the bobbin in your right hand and the starting end in your left. Turn the drop spindle off the shaft clockwise.
- Repeat this process in the same direction until the initial end begins to twist. You will leave a fluff of lint at the end so you can add more lint.
- It's a good idea to practice making the drop spindle spin, so that you get a feel for the direction in which the drop spindle rotates for making yarn.
Step 8. Twist the new fiber
Keeping the tension in your spun yarn, allow the loop to move toward the newly formed fiber. Keep repeating this process and check that there is enough winding before you move on. When the thread is long enough that the bobbin is almost touching the floor, unhook and wrap the base of the next bobbin with thread.
- This is called singular. You'll want to leave a bit of unspun yarn so you can tuck it in the book with a few inches of space apart.
- If you find that the thread is pulling away or is too loose, twist the bobbin back to collect more loops.
Step 9. Tie more fibers
Overlap the wool by a few inches of fluff from the arranged fibers, so you can catch and spin more of the starting ends. Let the loop run into the fiber that has already been bonded, adding more twist by turning the bobbin, as you want to make sure your bond is secure.
- To test your bond, give it another twist and bring your right hand back to where your left hand is holding the thread. Move your left hand back about three inches, so that you're pulling and unraveling more of the wool and letting the bobbin wind for some time.
- Release the yarn with your right hand and allow the loop to move up the fiber as you did before. At this time, gently pull more fibers from the bundle of fibers by pulling them back with your left hand, and follow the loop to move into the fiber array.
Method 4 of 5: Spinning Wool
Step 1. Arrange the wool
This is when you pull the fibers from the material to be spun and untwist them down to form the size of yarn you want to spun. If you stack more fibers, your yarn will be thicker; less fiber and will be thinner.
- If your fibers are long, forming increasingly narrow rows, this is a form of fiber processing called roving. If it is wide, roll the unrolled bond into a wide rectangle, this form of fiber processing is called battling.
- Take a strip about 30.5cm long and about as thick as your thumb (this doesn't need to be very precise).
- Hold the fiber strip in one hand (it doesn't matter which hand). Pull a small amount of fiber from one end of the strip with your other hand. Arrange the fibers down to the thickness you want for your spun yarn.
- The spinning process will spin the fiber, which also strands thinly down. Once you are able to properly stack and spin it, it will be easier for you to determine the size of your stack.
Step 2. Set the starting end on the spinning machine
The starting end is a piece of yarn that has been previously spun and can be attached to the rod of your bobbin. Cut the yarn about 91.4cm and tie it on the bobbin rod. Make sure that you tie it properly.
- Pull the starting end through the hole on your spinning machine. Once you've done that, you're ready to spin!
- If you're just starting to spin, it's a good idea to practice spinning with just the starting tip so you can get a feel for how the spinning machine works, how to start spinning with the machine using only the pedals.
Step 3. Place your fiber along the starting end
You'll want to make them overlap by about four to six inches. You'll be holding the fiber tie in one hand (the hand holding the fiber), and the starting end and fiber in the other (this is the hand that will be composing).
Step 4. Start stepping on the pedal
You want to make sure that the machine is running according to the movement of the clock. This will create a "Z" spun on your single strand of spun yarn. Follow the starting ends and the spun fibers together, holding them for a moment while they are spun, so they will be secure.
Make sure you let the machine spin the fiber while you stack more fiber
Step 5. Start spinning
Overlap the unspun and unspun fibers, grasp them with your non-dominant hand and twist clockwise. This will cause the fiber to be spun which will turn the fiber into yarn.
- Make sure that your drafting hand is between the fibers and the holes of the spinning machine. You don't have to, however, have to keep your hand close to the hole as you spin.
- Always make sure to turn the engine clockwise.
Step 6. Stack more wool over the starting end
You'll want to slide your stacking hand toward the fiber bundle to arrange more fibers to be spun. It's best when you're just starting to stop spinning, stack the fibers, and then spin, then stop and rearrange. Once you are more comfortable, it will become a continuous movement.
- Be careful that you don't allow the spun through the fibers in your hands.
- Your non-dominant hand should be closest to the machine and your dominant hand closer to you.
Step 7. Loosen your yarn and make it into a skein
You will do this once the coil is full. Wrap your hands and elbows, like wires and ties wrapped around a certain distance with acrylic yarn.
This is when you use an implementation called "niddy-noddy." Wrap the yarn from the bobbin over the niddy. This will create a large loop over a number of small areas, which you will then tie to a specific section and untwist it by sliding it off one niddy's shoulder
Step 8. Set the spun
You will do this by soaking the rolls in hot water and drying them out. You can use plastic hangers, or hang them on a drying rack. Hang something heavy from the roll to dry.
Method 5 of 5: Troubleshooting Threads
Step 1. Prevent the yarn from getting tangled
Sometimes your yarn gets tangled between the bobbin and the flyer. Basically this means that your pedal is not treading properly (which is often the case with beginner spinners!). Cut the thread, reconnect, and start over.
It can also occur because the bobbin is too full, which causes the thread to cover the sides of the bobbin and tangle around the spindle. Empty the coil so you can start over
Step 2. Find the missing ending
Sometimes when you spin, you lose the end. Don't fret! Spin your coils some time. Often the tip is under the last hook it ends.
- Try using a piece of tape to see if you can pull off the missing end. This solution worked for about half an hour.
- If not, take the last possible end and pull the thread for a fresh start so you can start again.
Step 3. Do something about your rough yarn
If your yarn is coarse and wavy, this means that you are not spinning it consistently. You may be pulling in too much fiber. If so, what you need to work on is to maintain a consistent rhythm in spinning.
Step 4. Solve spinning problems by hand
Some of the same problems occur with hand spinning, which also occur with spinning machines. Sometimes, there are different ways to deal with it and as opposed to spinning machines (for example, you don't have flyers and bobbins and so the tangling type isn't special).
- The coil is away from you. If your bobbin is moving away from you and twisting into the fiber, stop your bobbin and untwist your fiber. Then, start rearranging. This is something that often happens to beginners.
- If you have thicker and thinner areas of your yarn (called slug), you can do things like save it and use a new yarn (good for knitting a scarf). Otherwise, you can remove tangled yarn by pulling the yarn with your hands on both sides of the slug and untangling until the fibers are loose.
- Twisting too much thread is a common problem for beginners. You can tell that your yarn is too twisted if you have thick strands that feel very hard and dense. The strands can stretch back on themselves when you lower your tension. To fix this, loosen a few extra twists by untangling more lint.
Tips
- Practice with your spinner before you start your first project. Learn to adjust the voltage appropriately.
- Talk to other hand spinners for advice on the advantages and disadvantages of different types of spinning tools. Some shops will allow you to rent a spinner for a short period of time to try it out.
