From edge joints to complex mortises, there are many techniques for joining wood together. If you need to join the boards side by side to create a larger plane, edge joints are the best solution. Arrange the boards until they look satisfactory, then use wood glue and tongs to secure the boards. If you need to make edge joints, such as miter corner joints or regular butt joints, simply glue is not enough. Instead, punch holes in the pockets using a drill and screws to strengthen the joints. Fortunately, pocket hole jigs are reasonably priced and make the job quicker and easier.
Step
Method 1 of 2: Creating Edge Connections
Step 1. Arrange the boards and mark them with chalk
Position the board so that the good side is visible in the finished product. Slide the board until the grooves are straight and nice looking. When you're happy with how it looks, draw a V across the wood using chalk or wood crayon.
- For example, if you are building a table, you will use the good side of the wood as a tabletop. It is better if the grooves and wood colors are matched so that they match or the joints are not too obvious.
- Your V line doesn't have to be perfectly straight. You just need to make shapes across the wooden planks. Thus, the V line is only read when the board is well laid out.
Step 2. Spread the board along the strip of scrap wood
Place several strips of the same size wood under both ends of the board to raise it off the work surface. When gluing and clamping the boards, excess glue may seep from the joints. Raising the board will keep the work surface clean.
Add a strip of scrap wood in the middle if the plank or wood is long enough and you want to prevent it from bending
Step 3. Apply glue evenly on the edges of the board
To spread the wood glue evenly, hold the glue bottle with one hand and the nozzle with the other. Move the nozzle along the edge of the wood quickly and firmly.
Do not apply glue on the two edges that are joined together. Excess glue will only make the job messy
Step 4. Clamp the board and make sure it is even
Press the two edges of the board together and secure it with tongs. Add clamps at each end, and depending on the length of the board, attach additional clamps in the middle. Make sure the board is perfectly straight so you don't have to sand down any defects once the glue has hardened.
Step 5. Remove excess glue after 20 minutes
To make cleaning easier, you can immediately wipe off excess glue from the surface of the board using a damp cloth. After 20 minutes, remove the tongs so you can carefully turn the board over and clean the bottom. Use a putty knife to scrape off excess glue.
- The glue will still take a few hours to harden so handle the joined boards with care.
- In humid conditions, you may need to wait a few hours or more for the clamp to release.
Step 6. Let the glue dry overnight
While you can remove the clamp right away, the glue won't reach its maximum strength until it lasts a few hours. Let it dry overnight before working on it further.
Method 2 of 2: Making Pocket Holes in Corner Joints with a Drill
Step 1. Plan the work before drilling
Spread the boards to be combined according to the desired finished result. Use a pencil to mark the area to be punched. Make sure you drill into the face or edge of the groove because the joint will weaken if you drill into the end of the groove.
- You can tell where the end of the groove is from the face and edge of the groove by checking the surface texture and arrangement of the wood growth rings. The end of the groove is the rougher, more porous side of the board. In addition, the radius of the visible tree growth ring can only be seen at the end of the groove. This ring looks like a series of neatly arranged curved lines.
- To complete the process, you will drill holes into the board, then screw the screws through the pilot holes of the first board into the second board. If you've never drilled pocket holes before, it's a good idea to practice with scrap wood first so you're more familiar with the process.
Step 2. Set the depth of the pocket hole jig tool to the thickness of the wood
A quality pocket hole jig tool has an alignment guide. Alignment guides are made on the rod where the guide holes are, and you can adjust them by pulling in and out of the pocket hole jig tool body. Locate the alignment guide lines marked with the wood depth to set the jig tool.
Look for a pocket hole jig with built-in alignment guides and clamps. Although they are less expensive, products that do not have this feature are less accurate and more difficult to use
Step 3. Insert the drill bit into the guide holes on the jig tool to adjust the drill bit collar
Pocket hole drill bits have a collar which is used to control the depth of the hole. Use an Allen/hexagonal wrench (should be included with the drill bit) to loosen the collar from the drill bit. Insert the drill bit into one of the jig guide holes until the tip is about 0.3 cm from the bottom of the jig tool. Attach the collar to the end of the drill bit so that it is flush with the jig tool, then tighten the collar.
Step 4. Clamp the board on the jig tool
Place the board on the jig so that the marks made are aligned with the guide holes of the jig, then tighten the clamps/clamps to lock them in place. You will be drilling into the side of the board that faces the guide holes of the jig tool. Therefore, make sure that side will not be visible in the finished product.
- For example, if you are making a frame, be sure to drill into the back side of the board instead of the part that will be the front side of the finished product.
- If you have cut a 45-degree angle on the board to make the miter joint, lay the board so that the corner is flat against the base of the jig.
Step 5. Drill pilot holes with a drill at high speed
Lock the drill bit into the electric drill and set it to the highest speed setting to make the hole as smooth as possible. Insert the drill bit into one of the jig guide holes, drill at the midpoint between the tip of the drill bit and the collar, then pull the drill bit to remove the shavings.
- After stopping halfway to remove the shavings, insert the drill bit back into the guide hole and continue drilling until the collar prevents you from drilling any deeper.
- Insert the drill bit into the guide hole straight across the board, and repeat the process.
Step 6. Arrange the board and clamp on the joint
Align the board to make sure the pilot holes are drilled in the right direction. Apply glue to the edges of the joined boards, pressing until the edges are together, and tighten the clamps at the joints to secure the boards so they don't move.
- If you tighten the screws without clamping the board, the joints will not be evenly distributed.
- While using screws can give you a strong joint, wood glue will help the joint stay even during the seasons of shrinkage and expansion.
Step 7. Choose the right screws for the project
Use fine-groove baghole screws for hardwoods, and coarse-groove screws for softwoods, such as pine. The exact length of the screw depends on the thickness of the wood. For example, a 2 cm thick board requires 3 cm screws.
- Pocket-hole screw packages often include a guide chart. You can also find screw size guides online.
- You should only use pocket hole screws. These screws have a built-in washer that is level with the flat edge created by the pocket hole drill bit.
Step 8. Gently thread the screw through the pilot hole
Place the screw in the drill and slowly insert it through the pilot hole until it is tight. Then, screw the next screw into the other pilot hole made earlier. Remove the clamp when you are done installing the screws.
Step 9. Wipe or scrape off excess glue
If the glue seeps out of the joint, wipe it with a damp cloth. If it starts to settle and looks like jelly, scrape it off with a putty knife.
